First, reproduction

1, basin selection

Potted orchids with rough texture, no axis, porous edges and feet are better. The mass production of thin plastic soft pots is economical and practical. Exhibition orchids are cultivated in simple small pots so that they can be displayed in elegant pots in time.

2, the deployment of plant materials

Planting materials should be loose in texture, good in aggregate structure, rich in organic matter, good in air permeability and strong in drainage, which is conducive to the growth of cyanobacteria enhanced by aerobic microbial activity. The following mixed planting materials can be selected: humus soil 40%, burnt soil 40% and coarse sand 20%; Mushroom soil 30% burnt soil 30% coarse sand 25% chaff15%; Humus soil 40% coarse sand 40% chaff 20%.

3. Orchid cultivation

(1) seedling treatment

After emergence, wash the sediment on the root groups, remove leafless pseudobulb, and cut off diseased leaves and rotten roots. Before planting, the seedlings are diluted and soaked with Tobuzine or Chlorpyrifos for 2,000 times, each time for half an hour, then cleaned with clear water, dried in a ventilated place, and waiting for planting.

(2) Planting

Only 1-2 plants can be planted in the middle of the pot. If there are multiple clusters of plants, the old plants in each cluster should face the new plants in the pot and face the pot edge to improve the germination rate and growth and development space of the new plants. When planting, put the coarse plant material into the pot until 15% of the height of the pot is put into the orchid plant, and then evenly distribute the root groups to prevent the orchid root system from being injured. Slowly fill in the fine plant materials until the height of the pot is 95%, so that the fine plant materials can be closely combined with the roots of orchids. The height of fine plants in the pot is about 90%, which makes the potted orchid plant base (pseudobulb) half exposed on the pot surface, and it is easier to get natural light and fresh air.

Second, the maintenance management

1, the growth of Cymbidium hybridum is suitable for the annual average temperature in summer 15-23℃, and 70-80% plastic shade is used to cool down.

2. The high temperature caused by excessive illumination should be reduced by increasing the shade grade and density; In summer and autumn, the light is strong, the air is sultry and the temperature is high. You should open the doors and windows and let the air completely convection in the blue field to promote cooling. Sprinkling clear water under passages and blue shelves and spraying fog into indoor spaces can also promote cooling.

3. Moisturizing and Ventilation The moisturizing and ventilation of orchids in the field should be adjusted to a reasonable state to facilitate the growth of orchids. In order to maintain air humidity, advanced automatic humidifier should be used, and water mist can also be sprayed under spaces, passages and shelves.

Maintaining the humidity of the substrate should be controlled according to the conditions of light, humidity and ventilation. If there is soil cultivation, water it for 2-4 days 1 time, and the time limit of "dry rather than wet" should be adapted to local conditions. Wild orchids are native to mountains and valleys, but they are open on all sides, with trees and grass, and can grow for a long time in a fresh air environment. Therefore, orchid farms also need to create conditions for the growth of these orchids. Closed orchid farms should be equipped with doors and windows to promote air convection.

4, heat preservation and antifreeze

Cymbidium hybridum can only tolerate a short intermittent low temperature of -2 to -5℃ under the protection of wind and frost, so it should be kept warm in the greenhouse in winter, and heating equipment can be used if possible.

5, fertilization

Take "depending on the orchid system, seedlings should be fertilized, rather light than thick, and applied sparingly at the right time". That is, grasp the opportunity according to the orchid variety, seedling potential and physiological characteristics. The dry fertilizers are beef bone meal (nitrogen 4%, phosphorus 22.06%), plant ash (phosphorus 1.04%, potassium 6.4 1%), cake fertilizer (nitrogen 7%, phosphorus 1.32%, potassium 2./kloc-0). Liquid fertilizer is filtered and diluted with decomposed organic fertilizer, and liquid urea, potassium dihydrogen phosphate or special flower fertilizer are alternately used as topdressing or root fertilization. Generally, it is applied once every 15 days, and the leaves are sprayed with clear water two days before and after spraying outside the roots to wash away dust and drug residue.

Fertilization time is as follows: ① Germination accelerating fertilizer (late spring and early summer): dry fertilizer 1-2 times and 10 day is applied outside the roots, and nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are mainly used to promote the expansion of underground roots. (2) Development fertilizer (late summer and early autumn): The leaf elongation of new buds makes new buds strong, mainly nitrogen. Potassium is the main factor to make the seedlings strong after the new buds open, and potassium diazophosphate is sprayed once a week. ③ Flower-promoting fertilizer: when the leaves of new shoots stop growing, they will be transferred to the flower bud differentiation stage, and dry fertilizer with phosphorus as the main component will be applied once a week. (4) During the period from cold dew in late autumn to early winter, orchids are put into dormancy, and dry fertilizer is sprayed once every 10 day, and liquid fertilizer is sprayed once on the leaves, so as to ensure safe overwintering and paste propagation and improve the germination rate in the next spring.