Wild mushrooms ready to move
In Tengchong, Yunnan, Xu Zaichen's hometown, during the rainy season from June to August every year, the streets of Shan Ye become lively, which is the sound of fungus growing.
Rain after rain washed the land between mountains, and all kinds of bacteria began to pop out.
Locals go up the mountain to pick them in the early morning, and then take them home to stir-fry or make soup. All the inedible mushrooms are sold in the market, and the smell of mushrooms is everywhere in big cities and alleys. Even Wang Zengqi once said with emotion: "The rainy season has come, all kinds of bacteria have come out, and the air is full of the smell of bacteria."
Yunnan's wild mushroom is like an elf who has absorbed the essence of Shan Ye's heaven, earth, sun and moon. In a certain season, it will arrive as scheduled, appear on various dining tables, and also appear in Yunhehui, a Yunnan specialty restaurant in Zhengzhou.
Xu Zaichen is the chef of Yunhe Club. At this time, he should be as busy as when he was in his hometown.
Chicken fir: the king of bacteria
I tasted the freshest fungus of this season in Yunhehui yesterday.
In the kitchen, the stove is burning, the pot is boiling with thick soup, and the aroma is coming out in waves. Just smelling this smell makes people appetite.
I asked Xu Zaichen what he was stewing, and he said, "Chicken fir and old hen soup." Don't underestimate these simple five words. The temptation to eat food is no small matter.
Termitomyces gallinarum, which grows on the tip of the tongue in a secret place in China, is fleshy and has white filaments. It tastes fresh, sweet and crisp, and tastes like chicken, but it also contains the unique aroma of bacteria. Wang Zengqi praised him as "the king of bacteria".
There is never a shortage of chicken termites in rainy season in Yunnan, but it really takes a lot of thought to eat fresh chicken termites in Zhengzhou.
The chicken fir is deeply rooted in the soil, and the small tip is very similar to the color of the soil. Most people can't see it, and digging is also skillful. Don't dig too deep, otherwise it will destroy the termite nest and it won't grow out next year.
Bag and pack the fungus immediately after picking, otherwise the umbrella cover of the chicken fir will gradually open, and you won't taste that excellent taste. After that, Xu Zaichen took out some chicken termites from the refrigerator and carefully peeled off the paper bag outside to show us. "These are all chicken termites in Chuxiong, and the chicken termites over there are very fat. These were just picked from the mountain yesterday morning. Fly to Zhengzhou in the afternoon. You see, the soil is still wet. "
Stew this fresh chicken fir with free-range chickens in the mountains of Yunnan without any seasoning. It's delicious. Two hours later, as soon as the soup came out of the pot, it smelled delicious and filled the whole kitchen.
Take a sip of this fresh thing from the mountains of Yunnan, even if you are in Zhengzhou, it is like bathing in the mountains south of colorful clouds and feeling the nourishment of natural rain and dew. Xu Zaichen watched me eat happily and was very proud of himself. He said: "Chicken fir is not only fresh, but I think it is sweeter than sugar." Indeed, what is so sweet in this world that it can be compared with the grace of nature?
Besides stew, fried chicken fillet is also a great dish. Add a handful of garlic and a handful of Qiubei pepper from Yunnan to the boiled oil. Crispy and refreshing taste, only aftertaste.
The meat is fat and delicious: boletus
It is also a wonderful dish to fry boletus with Yunnan wrinkled pepper instead of Qiubei pepper in the same way.
Boletus is a common wild fungus with many kinds. The fungus is bigger than my fist, with thick handle and thick meat. It looks lovely.
This fungus usually grows under pine trees. It's much easier to find boletus than chicken fir. It is not only big and easy to be found, but also hidden in the soil and difficult to be found.
Fresh boletus is full of meat and crisp in taste. It is smooth and tender after eating, and the tip of the tongue is still fresh after eating. In addition, Xuanwei ham in Yunnan is fried with wrinkled skin pepper, which is rich in flavor and makes people covet.
Mushrooms are full of fresh air: mushroom king soup
Soup is indispensable for a perfect banquet. Today, this soup is very domineering, and it is called "Mushroom King Soup".
It is called this name because this soup is stewed with several excellent mushrooms, including Tricholoma matsutake, chicken fir, boletus, dictyophora, and a native chicken. As you can imagine from the lineup, this soup is really delicious.
When several kinds of bacteria meet in the pot, they absorb each other without any seasoning. Two hours later, a pot of delicious mushroom king soup is ready. The delicious taste of so many fungi is blended into this pot of fresh soup, which really deserves to be the "king of bacteria".
In such a restaurant with Yunnan characteristics, Yunnan decorations are everywhere. Listening to the distant Yunnan folk songs and tasting the fresh bacteria south of the colorful clouds, the beauty of the world is nothing more than this.
Ps: The freshest fungus has arrived this season. 15 days, the matsutake, which was first released by China on the tip of the tongue, will arrive soon. After the rainy season, these gifts from nature will be fleeting. Would you like to try?
Food address
Address: Building 6, Sheng Yuan International, Greenland, Jinshui East Road 18.
(Metro Line 5 Jinshui East Road Station Exit B Dadong Food Music Plaza)
Tel: 037 1-86556882