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The Rise of the National Tide: Why did 100 promote the growth rate of Chinese brands of beauty cosmetics to exceed 10 times after 1995?
In the square of Taikooli in Sanlitun, the office building in Chaoyang Park, and the subway bound for Dongsishi, young people dressed in Hanfu will shuttle between passers-by wearing modern clothes from time to time. Some of them wear blue sweaters, others wear red robes with elegant sleeves and embroidered patterns. They are calmly drinking coke and brushing their mobile phones, which makes people suddenly feel that time and space are disordered.

Yayan, a girl from 1996, is one of them. She told Touzhong. They call people who wear Hanfu "robes", which is from Qin Feng in the Book of Songs. She fell in love with Hanfu from the beginning of her freshman year, and also witnessed that Hanfu became more and more popular and quickly became a circle.

Every time I meet my colleagues in the street, I always smile at each other and feel very happy. In fact, it is not middle-aged people who push the trend of Hanfu, but countless young people like Yayan. The questionnaire survey of Hanfu compatriots in 20 17 years shows that the average age of Hanfu consumers is 2 1 year, among which 16 -24 years old consumers account for 80% of the total.

According to the report of Hanfu industry, the number of Hanfu consumers was close to 500,000 in 2065,438+05, close to 1.2 million in 2065,438+07, and exceeded 2 million in 2065,438+08. The expansion of demand makes Hanfu in short supply. According to Tmall's 20 18 Hanfu Consumer Group Report, the number of people who bought Hanfu on 20 18 increased by 92% year-on-year. Take Minghuatang, a high-end customized Hanfu brand, for example, the price of a single product is generally around 4,000 to 5,000 yuan, and the suit starts at 10,000 yuan. However, at present, official website shows that the construction period has reached 65438+ the end of February next year, and money is not enough, so we have to wait patiently.

Hanfu fashion is just the tip of the iceberg. The market related to young people's dressing, especially the three categories of beauty and shoes and clothing, is popular in China. State-owned brands are also tearing off the label of "earthy taste" and becoming more and more "fashionable".

"Li Ning's recent program is very hot, and it is simply bursting." Several post-90s interviewers mentioned Li Ning to China Investment Network. In June this year, Li Ning returned to Paris again and released the Spring/Summer 2020 collection. In the show built with retro geometric patterns, models hold flags symbolizing cultural integration and wear clothes inspired by national table tennis to open the show curtain. Last February, Li Ning's Chinese style series with the theme of "Enlightenment" was very popular in New York Fashion Week, and some styles appeared line and lottery.

Li Ning, who is binding the tide of the country and wooing young people, is reversing the middle-aged crisis. On June 26th, Li Ning released a profit forecast. In the first half of 19, the company's net profit increased by no less than 440 million yuan compared with 269 million yuan in the same period last year, with a year-on-year increase of more than 160%. Li Ning's share price rose nearly 20% in intraday trading.

In addition to classic brands such as Li Ning, new domestic brands are becoming more and more interesting. During Tmall 6 18, the turnover of 589 domestic beauty cosmetics increased by more than 100%, while the growth rate of 183 exceeded 1000%. The minority brands such as Hollis, Perfect Diary, Hua Xizi, Li Bingxi and Dream Times have grown rapidly, with the growth rates of 265,438+082%, 65,438+065, 438+092%, 75,80%, 265,438+092% and 2228% respectively.

The perfect diary is one of the biggest dark horses. Tmall flagship store only opened in 20 17 years, and the turnover of Tmall Double 1 1 exceeded 1 billion in 20 18 years. In this year's 6 18, Perfect Diary won the first place in Tmall Makeup, and sold 260,000 pieces of matte lip glaze, with an average of 10.

The moon is no longer a foreign circle, and young people have become the main force of domestic consumption. The "Domestic Consumption Big Data Report" released by Suning shows that the enthusiasm for domestic products after 90 has surpassed that of foreign brands. Among all domestic consumers, the post-90s generation accounts for 35.64%. Among foreign brand consumers, the post-90s generation accounts for 30.93%. The sales growth rate of domestic cosmetics has reached 104.88%, while the sales growth rate of foreign brands is only 14. 18%.

The national craze seems to be lively. Behind the phenomenon, consumers, marketing channels, brands and supply chains are all undergoing profound changes.

The new generation, represented by the post-95 s and post-00 s, was born in an era of strong national strength. They have stronger cultural self-confidence and natural national identity, and the concept of "import = good goods" of the previous generation has gradually disappeared from them.

"Sorry, what age is this? I don't think imported products are better than domestic products at all! " Lulu, 22, like other young people interviewed by China Investment Network, said that the word "import" is very old-fashioned.

The Consumer Report of Social Newcomers released by Vipshop is also consistent with Lulu's statement, with 47.56% of consumers saying that they "have a good impression on domestic products" and only 0.56% "don't buy domestic products".

The founding partner of Sangu Capital once mentioned in an interview with Node Finance: "You're welcome to say that most of the entrepreneurs of the previous generation had a little inferiority complex in their bones, and even a little' worshipping foreign things', which was the psychological impact brought by their poor, backward and closed growth environment and tortuous life experiences. A new generation of entrepreneurs and consumers have known what is happening abroad since they can remember, and clearly know the moon abroad through studying abroad, traveling and daily communication; The moon in China is also clear. More and more people will have the normal mentality of looking up to foreign brands: they both know how to appreciate the national tide and understand the true connotation of foreign brands. "

Zixuan is a post-90s TV fan. He told Touzhong. Com believes that this cultural identity is related to "watching drama". He said that many dramas involve martial arts, history and traditional culture, which are as penetrating as Marvel comics and even more penetrating than Marvel comics.

"For example, Chen Xiaoxing committed suicide yesterday. Breeze and bright moon, starlight and dust, proud snow and frost, Song Chenzi, Taoist successfully lied to me! " Zixuan refers to The Untamed, which is adapted from The Master of Magic. At the same time, The Longest Day in Chang 'an, Nezha, Kyushu and other contents rooted in China's cultural world outlook have also reached the popularity of the screen.

The promotion of national strength and the radiation of traditional culture to young people will help to improve their recognition of domestic brands, and then give birth to a number of China brands with texture. Some eastern countries have experienced this process. For example, a number of brands with oriental aesthetic feeling and in line with the trend have been born in Japan, and Issey Miyake in the design field is one of them.

In addition to the recognition of culture, "cost performance" is also a high-frequency word when children talk about consumption after 1995, and domestic products have also expanded their market share.

"Kanez's 999 is exactly the same as Dior's, and the price difference is several times. After my roommate bought Kanez, he didn't need Dior models. " Lulu is a "Constitutional Party". If it is a shame for her to spend money, she doesn't care whether it is made in China or imported. The key is which is more valuable. "For example, leap shoes are fashionable, cost-effective and practical. Why do you have to spend more money on big brands? Am I stupid? "

As a native netizen, the post-90s generation has the ability to make intensive consumption. They skillfully shuttled between various platforms such as Weibo, Bili Bili, QQ Group, Post Bar and Taobao, and compared the advantages and disadvantages of products and channels. In the process of consumption, "planting grass, collecting coupons, pulling weeds and rebate" are all done in different products, without any contradiction.

In addition, these young people are obviously herd mentality, highly sensitive to fashion and trends, attach importance to the social attributes of consumption, and have a strong sense of circle identity. Their consumption attitudes and behaviors have also been used by domestic brands to varying degrees, which has promoted the development of the national tide.

In addition to the changes in the demand side, the changes in channel marketing methods are also the driving force for detonating the national tide.

Online channels are becoming more and more fragmented, and people's attention is shifting. Domestic skin care brand HomeFacialPro(HFP) is an example of using this opportunity to achieve explosive growth. Established in 20 14 years, this brand has achieved annual sales exceeding 10 billion in 17 years, entered the "100 million yuan club" of Tmall brand in10 years, and won the seventh place in the beauty care category of the whole network, and in 6/kloc-0 this year. How did it do it? Wang Lin, an insider, revealed various marketing tricks to China Investment Network.

"Marketing can break out, but first of all, products must have selling points and be spread. For example, HFP is positioned as a "cosmeceutical ingredient lover". The products are mainly popular ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, arbutin and nicotinamide, and the appearance is high-end cold wind. Let consumers have a sense of parity substitution for big names. "

When the product has explosive potential, please invite the traffic star Yibo to endorse the brand and then put it into the channel. Bypassing the traditional delivery channel and choosing to promote it on major grass planting platforms, Wang Lin summarized two key steps:

The first step is to plant grass. Through the cooperation with KOL, we cover the target users in the form of soft articles and evaluations, and "plant" the products in our hearts. Mainstream channels can be subdivided into several categories: WeChat, Weibo, Taobao, Xiaohongshu and Bili. It is said that HFP posted more than 3,000 soft articles on the official WeChat account on 17, and posted hundreds of KOLs above the waist in Weibo.

The second step is transformation. Through promotion, limited time, carnival and other opportunities. The overflowing traffic is harvested at the Tmall store. The most typical is the preferential activities during double 1 1 and 6 18.

"Marketing is gambling. A master must have experience and understand human nature. " Wang Lin made a further interpretation by taking the launch of the official WeChat account as an example.

In order to impress the target users in a short time, it is best to create a feeling that how can I see its products everywhere? This is more effective for users in small towns. Compared with cities with greater information flow, they are more easily influenced by the media, thus generating a sense of trust. The specific way is to launch a large number of similar official WeChat accounts in a short period of time, mainly in emotional and fashion categories.

In content, we should grasp the weakness of human nature. Some titles listed by Wang let netizens "feel" how to catch people, such as:

HFP's heavy new product is on fire! It turned white in less than 33 days, completely changing my attitude towards domestic products!

I admire Liu Yifei, a "fairy"! At this point, she hasn't lost for so many years!

Not the kui is the first beauty in Taiwan Province Province! What is the anti-aging secret Liao, 44, gave his 7-year-old brother Lin Chi-ling?

The content will be iterated repeatedly according to the effect, but they all step on the psychological characteristics of users listening to authority, picking up cheap, and eager to become beautiful and better quickly.

"Other platforms are similar to WeChat, but in Weibo and Xiaohongshu, matrices are very important."

The matrix in Wang Linkou is the pyramid-shaped delivery ratio of traffic stars, head KOL and small and medium KOL. Create stars with the same style through several popular stars, such as Jelly Lin and Nana Ou-yang, to strengthen the endorsement effect of products, and then KOL further builds momentum to provide more delicate product evaluation and planting strategies. At the same time, through the automatic communication of amateurs, the influence is superimposed and an "explosion" effect is formed in the user circle.

In addition to online channels, the format of offline channels is also changing. The strategy of "occupying shelves" with large-scale distribution of goods is getting weaker and weaker, and offline stores that focus on experience, interaction and immersion are becoming popular.

Li Ning's brand "China Li Ning" has laid out offline stores in recent years. In the Ning space of Sanlitun, the theme structure adopts the design concept of deconstruction, and the space style is retro, and the neon crisscross has a sense of street in the 1990 s. Street artist OG Slick was also invited to customize sculptures and graffiti walls. In Qingdao and Chengdu, Li Ning, a China, continued to follow the Chinese style, opening pop-up stores with the theme of "Moshan Tour", and successively settled in Harbin, Shenyang, Nanjing and other first-and second-tier cities.

Not only sports brands do this, but also the smell banks of domestic fragrance brands are well aware of this. They actively deploy first-and second-tier cities, stay in high-quality business districts, attach importance to experience, and do not pursue maximum efficiency. In an interview with 36Kr, founder Lou Shinan interpreted this idea as "overall airdrop": not only considering a single channel, but comprehensively considering online and offline traffic, and using different information channels to stimulate consumers' desire to buy, such as "consumers can experience offline and then buy again online. You can increase online exposure and drain offline stores. "

The crowd has changed, the channels have changed, and the brands that have not changed with it will be quickly pulled down and replaced by new species with more vitality.

There is a phenomenon in the domestic product world called Jackie Chan's curse. Domestic leading brands that once asked Jackie Chan to speak for them, such as Little Overlord, Aiduo VCD, Huang Fen Cola and Overlord Shampoo, all gradually declined without exception. This coincidence, which seems to make Jackie Chan suffer, actually reflects that many domestic brands can't keep up with the times, and their management, marketing and R&D capabilities can't support further expansion.

Domestic old brands want gorgeous transformation, and domestic new brands want to occupy their minds. In today's more symmetrical consumer information, brands and products themselves are more important. In addition to Li Ning, Anta's turn also has reference significance.

"Anta has gone abroad." A shoe lover, who just graduated from Yuguang, told me to vote. com。 After the popularity of KT3, "KT4- Reward", which was inspired by newspapers and marked the highlight moment of NBA star Thompson, was snapped up as soon as it was released. There are almost long queues in the first-tier and fifth-tier cities in China, while in Oakland, USA, thousands of people lined up all night on the day of the release.

Not only is it a joint name with basketball superstars, Anta continues to go more and more on the road of cross-border joint names. Anta co-founded the Forbidden City, which was inspired by China ancient court painters Zhang Weibang and Yao's Ice Drama. The shoes are decorated by ancient skaters, and there are ice flags on the side of the shoes. The color scheme is ***8, and none of the eye-catching symbols are left behind. There is also a special limited edition of 1000 pairs.

Marvel Comics, Coca Cola, NASA and other internationally renowned symbols are also on Anta's joint list. After this wave of operation, Anta gradually tore off the label of "local products" in the hearts of young people and became fashionable.

Co-branding has now become a fashionable way to create domestic product brands. Can improve brand tonality. For example, Perfect Diary and the British Museum jointly released 16 color eye shadow CD "Fantasia". The design was inspired by Marjorie Ka Tao Pan in the Renaissance, and mainly advocated the idea of breaking the bondage, indulging in love and expression. However, such a tall box of eye shadow only sold for more than 100 yuan, and there are discounts to take, which young girls are inevitably eager to get.

Co-branding is also a way for brands to create influence and enrich brand connotation through joint efforts. Among them, the textbook-level co-brand is the cooperation between foreign brands LV and Supreme. LV uses Supreme to promote the fashion of its own brand, and Supreme uses LV to promote its own brand positioning, which not only makes it hard to find a co-branded product, but also achieves a win-win situation between brands.

Building a brand with lasting vitality is not that simple. The era of mass brands has gradually gone away, and the rise of minority brands is the general trend. Ding Shizhong, founder of Anta, even thinks that the era of brand wars is over. If you want to get ahead, you need to be more focused and occupy the sub-categories.

Only by taking the target users as the center, transforming the supply chain and Industry-University-Research system, creating products with recognition, participation and emotion, paying attention to data feedback, and constantly iterating products, can the brand value be continuously maintained.

Before Anta, there were too traditional problems in the production process, and the products were developed by the shoes and clothing commodity center, which was too far away from consumers. Anta previously told the media that the company has undergone painful structural adjustment, promoted the category system, and established four categories of business divisions: basketball, running, comprehensive training and sports life. Every business department should make a splash, Weibo and post it, and see the feedback from consumers, thus forming a production R&D process that can shorten the production cycle and respond to the demand side's requirements.

Judith Williamson, an advertising symbolist, once said, "People are identified by what they consume". This is more and more obvious in young people's treatment of national consumption. Many analysts expressed similar observations to China Investment Network: the new generation represented by the post-95 s and post-00 s are more "smart" in consumption and pay more attention to cost performance for consumables; For consumption with high emotion and high added value, they value brand concept and consumption experience. In many scenes, what young people buy now is no longer a T-shirt and a lipstick, but a sense of belonging, sentiment and value recognition of a circle attached to it.

The characteristics of newcomers, the maturity of manufacturing industry and the change of channels all give state-owned brands a good opportunity to overtake in corners, especially in the "beauty industry" such as beauty, shoes and clothing. The current national tide may just be a spark. When thinking of cosmetics, consumers all over the world will not only think of Lancome Chanel, but also think of domestic beauty cosmetics. When the first choice for hipsters to buy shoes is no longer Nike Adi, but China brand, the revival of national brands really began to start a prairie fire. (Text/Xue Ying Source/Investment Network)

(The article mentions that the interviewee Wang Lin is a pseudonym)