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How to brew a pot of Yunnan Pu 'er tea? It is not only a skill and skill, but also the accumulation of tea drinkers' experience. Through correct brewing, the tea quality, beauty and customs of Pu 'er tea are fully displayed, so that drinkers can achieve the purpose of cultivating sentiment, being happy physically and mentally, and preserving health and prolonging life.
Brewing Pu 'er tea is still an art, full of diversity, individuality and creativity, rather than a fixed "formula". This paper talks about the "tricks" that should be paid attention to in brewing Pu 'er tea, and talks about my own views and methods to communicate with readers.
Preparation before drinking tea
Choosing water: The ancients had many incisive views on the relationship between water and tea. For example, "tea can't be discussed without water", "tea must be born in water, and 8% tea is also good when it meets 10% water; Eight points of water, ten percent of tea, eight points of tea "and so on.
Yunnan is rich in tea drinking water, and there are many mountain springs. There are also many good mountain springs near Kunming, such as Miaogao Temple and Xishan Mountain in the western suburbs, Humboldt Temple in Yiliang and Xilongtang in Chengjiang, all of which are good tea and good water. Mountain spring water has its own characteristics in expressing tea properties: fragrant, mellow, sweet and active; There are also several characteristics. Generally, sweet, clean, fresh and clear water is the first choice, which is not astringent when making tea, and the color of tea soup is stable. Nowadays, many tea people or tea lovers in Yunnan are fashionable to fetch water from the wild to make tea for a living and realize the ideal of fragrant tea and beautiful spring. Fresh mountain springs have a positive effect on improving the activity and aroma of tea, but as far as Pu 'er tea is concerned, especially aged tea, if the mountain springs are "raised" in clay pots and then put back to make tea, the "Chen Yun" of Pu 'er tea can be better displayed.
Choose tableware:
1, teapot Yixing teapot is the first choice for making Pu 'er tea. The teapot has good air permeability and adsorption, which is beneficial to improve the alcoholicity of Pu 'er tea and the brightness of tea soup. Generally, it is ideal to choose casserole with vermicelli and purple mud to adjust sand, which can improve air permeability.
The volume of teapot is relatively loose, which is convenient for the relaxation of tea strips and the leaching of taste. This is just the opposite of the "smallest and most expensive" oolong teapot. Two or three people drink Pu 'er tea together, usually in a 250 ml teapot, and many people can brew it in a 300-400 ml teapot. The new pot you just bought should be boiled with tea, and the "kiln flavor" and earthy flavor should be removed. After using it for a period of time (commonly known as "raising a pot"), you can make tea, achieving the effect of "the pot is ripe and the tea is fragrant". In addition, Pu 'er tea can also be brewed with porcelain pots, porcelain bowls and tea sets.
2. Boilers often use "hand bubble" to boil water, which is more convenient. If you brew some better Pu 'er tea, you should use a copper pot or a sand pot to boil water with an open flame to keep the activity of the spring water and raise the water temperature.
Generally, white porcelain or celadon is suitable for making teacups, so as to enjoy the soup color of Pu 'er tea. The teacup is bigger than the cup used for Kung Fu tea (oolong tea). Drinking tea in a thick-walled mug is not only suitable for the mellow and sweet characteristics of Pu 'er tea, but also close to the rough drinking customs of Yunnan people.
4. Fair pot is the first choice with good quality transparent glassware. Pu 'er tea is famous for its clear and bright tea soup and changeable colors. People often compare the soup color of Yunnan Pu 'er tea to "aged red wine", "amber", "pomegranate red" and "ruby red" and so on. Viewing color has become a unique landscape in the art of Pu 'er tea. The color and texture of Pu 'er tea soup show different changes due to the origin, production technology, materials, storage environment, aging years and other factors of tea. Watching soup is not only aesthetic, but also an important link in evaluating tea quality.
5. Peeling tea leaves looks like a screwdriver and is made of hardwood or hard bamboo, which is used for pressing tea. By pulling tea layer by layer, it can not only keep the integrity of tea strips, reduce broken tea, but also facilitate the collocation of surface tea and inner tea, and accurately reflect the quality of pressed tea.
Tea is made of Pu 'er pressed tea, and the properties of tea can be divided into two types: internal and external. Even if it is a pressed tea with the same internal and external materials, with the continuation of storage time, the tea properties of surface tea and internal tea are different. Therefore, before drinking, the pressed tea leaves should be dissolved, put into a clay pot and dispersed, and the flour tea and tea leaves should be mixed evenly. For small packaged loose tea with strict sealing, it should also be ventilated before drinking. After this treatment, the quality of the beverage is better than that of instant block, instant opening and instant brewing. It's a bit like tasting red wine. Generally, you should avoid drinking it now, and leave it for a while after opening the bottle to "kill" the wine.
Familiar with tea
Yunnan Pu 'er tea can be divided into loose tea and tight tea, new and old tea, green tea and cooked tea. Fermented tea includes mild fermentation, moderate fermentation and heavy fermentation. And tea has different properties. Every Pu 'er tea has its own personality. Only when you are familiar with the personality of the brewed tea, and then through skillful brewing, can you show the beauty of the personality of tea. The nature of tea determines the choice of tea set, the amount of tea, the level of water temperature, the rhythm of brewing, and even what water to choose. There are many subtle relationships between the properties of tea and the brewing methods. As far as the brewing techniques of Yunnan Pu 'er tea are concerned, coarse old tea is different from delicate tea, green cake is different from cooked cake, old tea is different from new tea, light fermented tea is different from heavy fermented tea, and "bitter" tea is different from "sweet" tea. Therefore, a Pu 'er tea should be soaked in a necessary way, and the main points of brewing should be determined by soaking and getting familiar with the properties of tea.
In practice, we often have this experience. Some Pu 'er teas take a long time to taste, while others can produce thick soup in a short time. This is because the production technology and raw materials of Pu 'er tea are at work. Whether it is traditional green tea or artificially fermented tea, the basic raw material is Yunnan sun-cured green tea. Traditional sun-cured green tea is mostly made by hand-kneading by tea farmers. The kneading time is shorter than that of black tea, green tea, Guanyin tea and other teas, and the kneading degree is also lighter than these teas, so the leaching time of tea flavor is relatively slow. This kind of Pu 'er tea always gives people the feeling of "lasting tea fragrance and long tea rhyme" during the brewing process. Of course, it is also useful to make sun-baked green tea by mechanical kneading. This part of tea tastes faster when brewed. In addition, Yunnan Pu 'er tea is mainly medium-grade tea, except for a small amount of delicate face tea and even some coarse old leaves. These mature leaves and thick old leaves play an important role in forming the special style of Pu 'er tea. The taste of this part of tea is also slower than that of tender tea, which is not suitable for rapid brewing. Judging from the influence of fermentation degree on the taste leaching rate of Pu 'er tea, the taste leaching rate of lightly fermented or moderately fermented Pu 'er tea is slower than that of heavily fermented or over-fermented tea.
Brewing mode
1, wide pot root protection and bubble protection method: Pu 'er tea with good quality adopts wide pot root protection and bubble protection method. "Leaving roots" means that after "washing tea", some of the brewed tea soup is left in the teapot, and the tea soup is not drained. Generally, "six stays and four stays" or "half stays and half stays" are adopted. Fill the teapot with boiling water every time after serving tea, until the taste of the tea is weak at last.
"frowsty bubble" refers to a relatively long time, and the rhythm pays attention to the word "slow". "Keeping roots" and "stuffy bubble" show the tea nature of Yunnan Pu 'er tea. Taking root-leaving and soaking can not only adjust the taste of tea soup from beginning to end, but also leave enough time and space for the taste formation of Pu 'er tea, so as to achieve the best state of "tea is ripe and fragrant".
2, the pot of "Kung Fu tea" bubble method: drink it immediately, dry it every time, leaving no tea roots. The size of the teapot depends on the number of people who drink tea. Yunnan Pu 'er tea can also be brewed in this way. For example, for some relatively new Pu 'er tea or tea with light smell, drink it in a medium-sized pot, remove the new smell of the first few bubbles, and improve the purity of the last few bubbles. For some heavily fermented tea, it is easy to avoid the tea soup from turning black by using the methods of quick washing and drying. For tea with heavy bitterness, rapid brewing in a medium pot can alleviate the bitterness. For some sun-cured Pu 'er tea products made by mechanical kneading, this method is also suitable for brewing because of the quick leaching of tea aroma.
In reality, we often encounter some improperly stored Pu 'er tea with good tea quality, which is either slightly damp or smelly. When the soup is boiled, the taste of tea is not pure enough, but the sweetness and thickness are acceptable. This kind of tea is also brewed in a wide pot, but the first and second infusions leave no roots, and the third infusions leave no roots.
3. Cup lid brewing method: This method is conducive to raising the brewing temperature and improving the aroma of tea, which is more suitable for brewing coarse and old Pu 'er tea. However, for some delicate tea leaves, the brewer is required to be skilled, otherwise there will be a phenomenon of "sulking" or hot tea. To some extent, covering the bowl for brewing reduces the favorable influence of utensils on the alcohol content of tea soup, which is more suitable for tea tasting.
Problems needing attention in brewing
1, tea quantity: When brewing Pu 'er tea, the tea quantity is closely related to drinking habits, brewing methods and tea personality, which is full of changes. As far as tea drinking habits are concerned, Hongkong, Taiwan Province, Fujian, Guangdong and Guangxi are used to drinking tea. Yunnan is also dominated by spirits, but the amount of tea is slightly lower than the former. Northern Jiangsu and Zhejiang like light drinks. As far as Yunnan people's tea drinking habits are concerned, the ratio of tea consumption to water quality is generally 1:40 or 1:45 when the root-retaining bubble method is adopted. For consumers in other regions, we can use this as a reference to adjust the concentration of tea soup by increasing or decreasing the amount of tea. If the "Kung Fu" soaking method is adopted, the amount of tea can be appropriately increased, and the concentration of tea soup can be adjusted by controlling the brewing rhythm. As far as the nature of tea is concerned, the amount of tea is also changing. For example, cooked tea and aged tea can be appropriately increased, while raw tea and new tea can be appropriately reduced. Don't stay the same.
2. Tea water temperature: The mastery of water temperature plays an important role in the display of tea. High temperature is beneficial to the dispersion of aroma and the rapid leaching of tea aroma. However, high temperature is also easy to rush out bitter taste and burn some high-grade tea. Determining the water temperature is definitely different for tea. For example, brick tea, compact tea and aged tea with coarse raw materials are suitable for boiling water brewing; High-grade bud tea (such as the newer Palace Pu 'er) and high-grade green cake with tender materials are suitable for proper cooling and brewing. Don't burn delicate tea leaves into "vegetable tea" at high temperature.
Most parts of Yunnan belong to plateau, and the temperature of boiling water is lower than that of coastal and plain areas. For example, the boiling water temperature in Kunming is around 94℃, which is suitable for brewing most cooked tea directly. For green tea, except some high-grade teas, most of them can also be brewed directly with boiling water. When brewing some high-grade fresh green tea, in addition to direct cooling, the water temperature can be lowered without adding pot cover or boiling water to avoid "aquatic sulking" caused by boiling tea.
3. Brewing time: The purpose of controlling brewing time is to fully and accurately display the aroma and taste of tea. As mentioned above, due to the particularity of Yunnan Pu 'er tea production technology and raw material selection, the brewing method and time are determined. As far as the rules are concerned, the brewing time of old tea and coarse tea is long, and the brewing time of new tea and delicate tea is short; The brewing time of hand-shaking tea is long, while that of machine-shaking tea is short; The brewing time of pressed tea is long, and the brewing time of loose tea is short. The specific mastery should be decided according to the characteristics of tea. For example, use a 350ml teapot to brew the mid-range seven-point cooked cake "7572" (produced in Menghai) produced in the 1980s, and the consumption of tea is 6-8g. After "washing tea", pour boiling water and soak for 5 minutes to drink half of it. When using the same method to brew medium-grade green cakes at the same time, add 5-7g of tea leaves, then pour boiling water after "washing tea" and soak for about 5 minutes before drinking. If this method is used to brew compact tea in the Republic of China, the soaking time can be extended to 5-7 minutes by appropriately increasing the amount of tea. For some new tea with bitter taste, it is necessary to control the amount of tea, shorten the brewing time and improve the taste.
4. About "washing tea": The concept of "washing tea" appeared in the Ming Dynasty. "Tea Spectrum" (Ming Dynasty) stated, "When making tea, the tea leaves should be washed with hot soup first, so as to remove dirt and air conditioning, and the cooking method is beautiful." For Pu 'er tea, the process of "washing tea" is essential. This is because most Pu 'er teas are drunk every other year, or even a few years later. The longer the storage time, the easier it is to precipitate tea powder and dust, and the purpose of "washing tea" can be achieved. For better quality Pu 'er tea, we should pay attention to the rhythm when "washing tea", and put an end to "washing tea for many times" or "washing tea at high temperature" for a long time to reduce the loss of tea fragrance.
The following is a simple version.
Is this the first time to make Pu 'er tea? But want to make a very good cup of Pu 'er tea? It doesn't matter, don't worry, Pu 'er tea has the most brewing methods among all tea leaves, and it is also the easiest to operate.
So, today we will choose one of the easiest brewing methods to teach you.
First of all, you should know that there are only two basic elements in making a good cup of tea: water temperature and tea soaking time.
Water temperature? The water temperature of Pu 'er tea is best controlled:1000℃; Is it easy? Unlike Longjing (850C) and Biluochun (750C), it is difficult to control, and Pu 'er tea can only be boiled completely.
Tea soaking time? The first tea can be discarded, and the second tea can be used for drinking, but the soaking time of the second tea can be shorter, such as 10-20 seconds, and the soaking time of the third tea can be longer, such as 30-40 seconds, and so on. The lower the concentration of tea, the longer the soaking time can be. Please look at the following demonstration:
1. Put Pu 'er tea leaves in a filter cup, about 10g (cover the bottom of the cup, slightly higher).
2. Pour boiling water into the filter cup and cover with tea.
3. After a while, take out the filter cup and pour out the first sip of tea.
4. Inject boiling water again, cover the tea leaves, cover the cup lid and let it stand for about 20 seconds.
5. Open the lid upside down, take out the filter cup and drip the tea juice slightly. As for the inside of the lid.
6. Well, a cup of fragrant Pu 'er tea is ready.
7. Don't forget to filter the tea in the cup while enjoying it, and don't throw it away. Pu 'er is very resistant to foam. When you finish the first course, you can put the filter cup back into the teacup, fill it with water, cover it, let it stand for a while, and the second cup of Pu 'er is ready again.
Is it convenient? Make yourself a cup of fragrant Pu 'er tea.