Introduction:

In 58 1 year, Sui destroyed the northern country and established a powerful country. After the demise of Chen in 589, China was unified, just like the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Unification further integrated the costumes of the North and the South. Sui was soon replaced by Tang, who ruled China for nearly 300 years. After a long period of inheritance and evolution, coupled with the strong national strength and extensive exchanges in the Tang Dynasty, the clothing system showed the continuity of the previous dynasty.

(1) men's wear

Men's wear in this period can be roughly divided into two stages, the first stage is from Sui Dynasty to early Tang Dynasty, and the second stage is middle and late Tang Dynasty. At each stage, according to different levels. Decoration content, general color materials and other aspects have strict regulations.

The official clothes of emperors, princes and their officials are divided into sacrificial clothes, royal robes, official robes and uniforms, red gauze for single clothes, skirts (or shirts) for clothes, gold hooks and curved square hearts for leather, white socks covered with red gauze and black leather shoes. Sword, double Pei, double slow, tribute bag, etc. Everyone will be reduced according to the size of the official position. In the murals of Li Xian's tomb in the Tang Dynasty, we can see the shapes of some court costumes.

And public service is also called provincial service. It is the dress of officials who are below one product and above five products when looking for the audience. The specific shapes are: crown, skirt, crimson yarn single coat, etc. In the portrait collection of envoys in the Tang Dynasty, they wore gold crowns, held water boards in their hands, hung tribute bags around their waists and ready-made uniforms.

Secret service was called banquet service in ancient times, which was also the secret service of life. In the early Tang dynasty, the Sui system was followed, and the emperor used yellow robes and yellow shirts. Later, Gu wore a red and yellow robe as a battle gown. Other subjects are forbidden to use red and yellow robes. It is also stipulated that the prince should wait until the third grade or above to wear a purple robe that can be worn. Wear a beige Suu robe for more than five products; Wear yellow silk with crossed edges for more than six products.

In terms of clothing color, the Sui system was followed in the early Tang Dynasty. Emperor Tiandi wore a yellow robe, Emperor Wendi of Sui Dynasty wore a red and yellow silk robe when he went to court, while Tang Gaozu Li Yuan wore a red and yellow robe and a yellow scarf as a spy. Since then, the Sui and Tang Dynasties banned other subjects from wearing red and yellow clothes. More than three products are purple robes, five products are cyan, six products are yellow, seven products are green and nine products are cyan.

Although the colors of the above clothes are different, they are generally determined by purple, scarlet, green and cyan.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, robes, shirts and other clothes made new progress and changed many new styles. Different from the previous generation: round neck, hem with flange, narrow sleeves and collar edge. In addition, the distinctive robes in this period include colorful robes, blouses and crotch-less robes.

Your robe or blouse is a kind of gown with sleeves, floating on it, and it is a kind of local clothes of the gentry. It is similar to the deep-lapped garment, except that the deep-lapped garment has a right slit, an inclined collar and big sleeves, and there are edges at the collar, sleeves and hem to highlight the wide and horizontal decoration at the hem.

The so-called "crotch-missing shirt" is to make an opening under the armpit of the robe and shirt, which is what we call "sewing" today, which is more convenient for people to move. It is precisely because of these characteristics that it is regarded as one of the costumes of the people, civilians or enslaved workers, and because this style is convenient for marching, riding and shooting, it has become one of the abstinence costumes.

Yellow robe is a kind of robe made of red, yellow and colored silk. The style is right lapel, big sleeves, stand-up collar and sleeves, which fade to knees or feet. This is the specific costume of the emperor and crown prince in Sui and Tang Dynasties. It also started from this time.

The inscription robe, that is, the "palindrome inscription robe", is made of money and embroidered with silver with palindrome patterns. The style of the inscription robe is right-handed, with a round neck and big sleeves. There are bird and beast patterns on the front and inscriptions on the back.

Wearing khufu, as far back as the Warring States Period, from the Han Dynasty to the Northern Dynasty, khufu has become a royal costume. Chang Fu in Sui and Tang Dynasties has forgotten that it is Khufu.

In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Khufu actually included ornaments of the western regions and ethnic minorities, as well as foreign costumes such as India. It is knee-length, wearing a felt hat or fur hat and boots on its feet. The collar type is round neck and lapel.

This kind of Hu clothing can be found in Terracotta Warriors and Horses, Tri-colored figures and Li Xian murals in the Tang Dynasty. Some people wearing Hu clothes are special envoys running on the Silk Road. Some are messengers to communicate economic and cultural exchanges between the North and the South, and some are out-and-out Han Chinese.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, long sleeves were shortened to form a closed collar. A long skirt with double-breasted, sleeveless or short sleeves is called a half-arm skirt. It's knee-length, with a belt on its chest and a robe on it. This is the clothing in spring and autumn. Half arm and back child belong to the same category, and knowledge is called differently in different periods, regardless of gender.

Men's wear in the Sui and Tang Dynasties also included waist skirts, trousers pleats and clothes. Generally speaking, literati or gentleman elders still wear single clothes with big sleeves and wide body, and long skirts are the most commonly used clothes.

women's clothes

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's clothing showed a distinctive style, which was also related to the aesthetics at that time. At that time, plump figure was beautiful, and young women liked to wear men's clothes.

During this period, the dresses of the Queen, Crown Princess and other dignitaries were also very complicated and hierarchical. For example, the queen's costumes include: clothes, bow clothes, cymbals and clothes; There are three kinds of clothes for the Crown Princess: Zhai Yi, Juyi, Zhouyi and Yiyi. But there are fewer jewels than the queen's clothes; Other women's clothes are simpler than the last two.

At that time, women's general clothing was also very rich.

Women's clothing from Sui Dynasty to early Tang Dynasty mostly wore narrow sleeves and light clothes. Wear a long skirt, a belt around her waist, a long scarf on her shoulders and high heels. Narrow sleeve length and wrist. This jacket is only short to the waist. In the murals of the Tang Dynasty, women in the Tang Dynasty wore narrow-sleeved shirts. A long silk dress. Long skirt. This kind of dress with a short coat and a long skirt can show a sense of rhythm and physical beauty, showing the generous charm of women in the Tang Dynasty.

In the Tang Dynasty, a kind of shirtless big sleeve shirt was also popular. It is a clothing style that aristocratic women often wear when walking in the courtyard. It preaches that butterflies hit dogs: the upper part of the chest is exposed, big sleeves, double-breasted shirts, long skirts, silks on the shoulders, embroidered with weaving, and a big belt is tied above the chest. It boldly exaggerates that women's legs are good boxes. Now Korean women wear them, with the upper part short and the lower part long. This kind of fabric is usually made of yarn from Luo Zhi. The so-called' touching the skin with the front edge' is also a major feature of women's wear in the Tang Dynasty, that is, wearing only light gauze, which embodies the characteristics of cultural openness in the Tang Dynasty. Women in the Song Dynasty also wore tulle and sweaters, but the way of wearing them and the permeability of fabrics were not as good as those in the Tang Dynasty. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's skirts were waist-high, half-exposed, revealing skirts that could mop the floor, slim and handsome. From the murals in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, we can see the graceful images of women wearing shirts and long skirts in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. The most popular colors of skirts are scarlet, purple, yellow and cyan. Yang Guifei, a member of Tang Xianzong, likes to wear a yellow skirt. This skirt is dyed with silver, gold and vanilla. It is flowery in color, especially bright, not afraid of the sun, but also gives off a fragrance. This kind of yellow skirt is becoming more and more popular in the princess's prince's home and Guan Ren's home. Li Shangyin, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, said in his poem, "Bend your waist and dance in a golden skirt". This illustrates this point.

In addition, there is another kind of long skirt, also called skirt, which is made up of skirts with more than two colors. This kind of skirt became popular in Wei and Jin Dynasties. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's love, regardless of rank, gradually became scarce after the middle Tang Dynasty.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women liked to wear Hu clothes and men's clothes. At this time, the characteristics of Hu fu are: the collar, sleeves and hem are decorated with brocade edges, the lapel should be felt, the leader of the collar should be folded, wearing a felt hat with a high top, wearing a belt and wearing various ornaments. Under them, you should wear tight-laced small-mouth pants and half-gloss embroidered shoes on your feet. The broomstick ornaments on Khufu's belt were introduced to the Central Plains in the Three Kingdoms period, and by the Tang Dynasty, they had become a necessity for soldiers. The ornaments worn by Khufu include knives, grindstones, sincere behavior,

Seven kinds of flint bags are commonly called "flint bags". After Kaiyuan, most officials who moved to Korea no longer wore them, but they became more popular among the people. Only later, the original seven things were changed, and only a narrow pimp was hung around the waist to replace them.

Women wearing men's clothes can be seen in the murals of Princess Tang's tomb.

In addition, in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, there was a four-piece suit which was deeply loved by ladies in court and upper class. This kind of dress wears a crown decorated with jewels and peaches, a robe with a folded collar and narrow sleeves, gold ornaments embroidered on cuffs and collars, and soft rope goods on the feet.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, both men and women wore double-breasted "suspenders", and a few were "pullovers". The neckline is wide and bare, and the short-sleeved ones have no sleeves. Because suspenders are more convenient to wear, ladies in the palace like to wear them, so they were designated as dresses at that time. Usually, women also wear suspenders, but they are inferior in clothing fabric, decoration and workmanship. The neckline, cuffs and hem are only made of dark thick fabrics, and the clothing is generally white.

At that time, another kind of clothing without sleeves was "monk", which was similar to and comparable to "monk". Wearing outside clothes, you can often see this kind of costume among Tang servants. There is also a kind of clothes worn outside the clothes called Shoushan, which is very short in shape and is usually worn by dancers. It is said that dancers usually wear Shoushan when they first appear, and they take off Shoushan halfway through the performance, revealing the beautiful embroidered dresses they wear inside, which makes the guests look brand-new.

Generally speaking, women's dresses in Sui and Tang Dynasties are varied and colorful, with gorgeous, gorgeous, free and easy and sloppy artistic style. Through these costumes, the beautiful and full charm of beautiful women in Sui and Tang Dynasties is fully displayed. Back, half arm, back, crotch

The back, half arm, vest and crotch are very similar, and they are all worn by four men and women. Among them, the quilt changed a lot in the Song Dynasty, so I will introduce the clothes on it separately.

The children in the back are also called scorpions. Although this style was worn by both men and women in the Song Dynasty, the requirements for its use form and time are different, and different people wear it differently.

Men's and women's backs are double-breasted, and shoulder straps are hung under the armpits and behind the shoulders. Because it is double-breasted, it needs to be tied with a bandage and decorated on the chest. Cross-collared or collared backs are often used with collared uniforms, which is the form and function of backs used in difficult tasks.

According to historical data. Men's backs can't be worn as formal clothes. Although the emperors of the Song Dynasty also wore them, they only wore them on informal occasions. Scholar-officials usually only wear their backs when meeting guests, but they must wear hats and tie two armpit straps on their chests as a courtesy.

The back worn by women in the Song Dynasty was developed on the basis of the previous half-arm simplex. At that time, a woman's back had to have a seam under her armpit, otherwise it might be very long, because the back reached her knees. The split under the armpit is also very long, about 1 1,13cm under the armpit, and sticks to the bottom. Collar types include diagonal collar, straight collar, collar with sleeves shorter than shirts and sleeves longer than half arms. There is a ribbon tied in a knot on the chest as a courtesy, and there is also a horizontal double pendant under the armpit, and then the double straps are removed. Due to the evolution of time, the difference between wearers is long or narrow, and the difference between fabrics and colors is also very strict. The dress with sleeves is the last dress of aristocratic women, second only to long sleeves. Wear a formal suit and a bun for more formal occasions, and a strap skirt for general occasions. If the queen wears a halter top when she goes back to her parents' home, she can change into a group crown and halter top after the third drink on the festival day, indicating that the halter top is used as a regular dress. Generally unmarried women and concubines also wear them on their backs as uniforms. Others, such as the media, can also wear it. Therefore, the role of female back and male back is different. Difficult children only make casual clothes, and women can make second-class dresses or uniforms.

The half arm was originally worn by soldiers because it is easy to move. In addition to samurai, in Song Dynasty, in informal occasions such as home, they also wore a group collar, a cross collar, a straight lapel and a half arm of a cross collar, and the sleeves could be subtracted. Women also wear half arms, which are covered outside. The sleeves of the half arm are lengthened to form the back, which is similar to a vest if the sleeves are subtracted. You can wear a quilt inside, such as a linen vest.

There are hip armor worn by the army and hip fir worn by ordinary people. The crotch is usually worn outside, and its appearance is similar to that of vest, but shorter than vest, so there are similarities and differences between them.

Song yuan Ming Qing clothing

(1) Men's Wear in Song Dynasty

The general costumes of men in Song Dynasty mainly include: clothes, skirts, gowns, shirts, jackets, shirts, gowns, cranes, backs, sleeves, coir, and abdominal circumference.

In the Song Dynasty, except for the coronation official dress and the coat petticoat, it was rarely worn.

The robe in Song Dynasty is one foot long and has a single clip. At first, it was called cotton gown, also called long scroll. Later, rich people made robes out of brocade, called brocade robes. Most people wear white robes or coarse robes. Robe is a kind of thick and short material robe. In the Tang dynasty, there was a lack of crotch robes and crotch shirts, which were inherited from the Song dynasty, but the styles and names were slightly different. In the Song Dynasty, there was a lack of crotch shirts. There are two styles in Song Dynasty: round neck and right collar, wide body with big sleeves and tight body with narrow sleeves.

Short brown is a kind of coarse clothing made of coarse cloth or linen. Because of its narrow body and small sleeves, it is called sleeves. Different from short and narrow brown clothes, brown clothes generally refer to clothes that do not belong to the category of silk and brocade, and are also made of hemp or wool. Generally, it is easy for literati to wear in hidden soil, and it is also one of the household clothes of Taoism.

There are many varieties and styles of shirts in the Song Dynasty, including cool shirts, purple shirts, white shirts, sweaters and ge shirts. A cool shirt is worn outside, because it is light white, so it is also called a white shirt. Later, I stopped wearing it on other occasions as a sling to comfort the dead. Because it is purple, the purple shirt is split at the front and back for riding, narrow and short. Sweaters and Ge shirts are made of wool or hemp, and a horizontal bar is added under the shirt. There is also a hoodie named after wearing a black silk hat and a black round neck shirt.

Jackets are the daily clothes of ordinary people, and the difference is not very big. Later, they became "common names". Straight leg, Yi Dao and crane leg are all relatively loose clothes worn by literati in Song Dynasty. Straight Tui is a kind of long skirt, and the middle seam on the back of the skirt is always downward, hence the name. Some monks wear straight push, and Yi Dao is a Taoist costume, not a Taoist costume, which can be worn by ordinary literati. Crane coffins were originally made of the feathers of birds such as crane feathers, which were found in the Southern Jin Dynasty. The style is to wear sleeves and have a big figure. Later, this wide skirt was called a crane. These three kinds of clothes are rough, but the straight collar and the Taoist robe are oblique-necked skirts, while the crane is in the form of straight collar hanging down to the ground.

In Song Dynasty, there was a kind of clothes called raccoon sleeves. This kind of clothes is characterized by its convenience for riding. The sleeves are short and the elbows are tight.

Hemp fiber is a kind of rain gear, made of straw. There is a saying in Zhang's "Fishing Songs" in the Tang Dynasty that "green bamboo silk, green hemp fiber, oblique wind and drizzle don't need to be returned", which shows that hemp fiber has existed in the Tang Dynasty.

Abdominal circumference is different from the robe (hug) abdomen mentioned above, and it is a kind of clothing accessory around the waist. Song people like to use a goose yellow belly circumference, which is called "waist yellow".

Women's Clothing in Song Dynasty

Women's clothing in Song Dynasty is more complicated. This is also the essence of clothing development from ancient times to the present. At that time, many costumes were unique and varied, showing the grand occasion of a hundred schools of thought contending. Later, the government had to order that women's clothes should obey their husbands' clothes, and women in ordinary families were not allowed to wear colorful clothes made of silk. But people didn't abide by this rule at that time, and the atmosphere of fashion and prosperity increased. At that time, there was a preference for "exotic clothes" and foreign clothes were adopted. Later, the emperor ordered everyone who wore Qidan clothes to be beheaded, but the fashion at that time was unprecedented.

Ladies' casual clothes in Song Dynasty are fashionable, thin and long, which is different from previous periods. The color matching of clothes also broke the convention that red, purple, green and cyan were the main colors in the Tang Dynasty, and various colors such as purple, black, purple, scallion, silver gray and agarwood were used. The color tone is elegant and quiet, and the relatively advanced neutral gray tone is reasonably used. Clothing patterns have also been changed from more regular Tang dynasty patterns to sketches, which are more lively and natural.

Ordinary women, especially professional women or servants, still wear narrow-sleeved shirts. Only thinner and longer than those in the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the color is mainly white, and the others are light crimson and light blue. Tight pants are also short, and blue and white are the most common colors.

Generally speaking, women's clothing in the Song Dynasty was narrow, thin, long and strange, except for the long sleeves and fat skirts that were popular in the Northern Song Dynasty.

Shirt is one of the most common clothes, and most of the shirts of women in Song Dynasty are decorated with embroidery. Most of them are round neck, horizontal collar, straight collar and double-breasted with thin waist, many hems and long openings. Generally, the fabric is made of light and soft materials such as yarn, twill and silk.

Tui and coat are similar clothes. Tui is short in appearance, generally with open waist, double-breasted hem, long sleeves and narrow body. There are single pairs, single pairs of similar shirts and coats. Usually, the clothes of aristocratic women are mainly purple and yellow, with embroidery and embroidery. Ordinary women are mostly green, white and brown, and elderly women also like to wear purple clothes.

A coat is mostly a winter coat with lining or cotton pad, which can be used instead of a robe. In the Song Dynasty, the wearing of robes was restricted, and most other folk women were not allowed to wear them except maids. After that, it was stipulated that the robe color of the servant girl should be purple above grade three, embroidered with crane grass, yellow below grade three, and not embroidered. As for the color of the coat, there is no restriction except white as a "fierce suit", and you can choose according to your own preferences.

Narrow-sleeved clothes are a kind of casual clothes popular among women in Song Dynasty. The style is double-breasted, crossed collar, narrow sleeves and knee-length clothes. It is characterized by being very thin and narrow, even close to the body. Because this kind of clothing is novel and saves materials, it quickly became popular. Not only noble women like to wear them, but ordinary women also follow suit. This also shows that Song people pay attention to economy and practicality, and try to save clothes except bun, which is not only convenient for action, but also exaggerates the curvaceous beauty of women.

At the same time, there is also a popular lapel style, knee-length narrow sleeves. When making, add two narrow embroidered edges to the lapel. Lapels are generally triangular, and sometimes you have to wear silk and lace at the waist, both of which are made into various chain knots.

At the end of the Song Dynasty, narrow sleeves were popular, and the front and back sides were slit. There are many buttons at the seam as decoration, which is called "Secret Door" and "Demon Clothes", and it is one of the strange clothes in ancient times.

In the Northern Song Dynasty, women liked to split their skirts to facilitate riding, and rich women also liked to wear them at home. This custom remained even in the Yuan Dynasty (mainly in the court).

In Song Dynasty, women's trousers were not exposed, that is, skirts, most of which were covered inside. However, there are also people who wear pants alone and don't wear skirts outside, but this is the costume of lower-class women. There was embroidery on the pants in the Song Dynasty, but also the crotch-less pants were kept.

At that time, women's underwear had tube tops and belly wraps. The shape of the two is almost the same, but the top of the tube is short and the belly is long. Sometimes wipe your chest.

You can also wear it outside. In the Song Dynasty, women and men wore a waistline around their waists, that is, "waist yellow" was also tied up with blue and white strips of cloth.

(3) Men's wear in Yuan Dynasty

In the Yuan Dynasty, white, blue and color were the most popular. Mongols like white, white and clean; Mongols worship heaven, so it's still.

blue-green/cyan

Quality-oriented clothing is a kind of Mongolian clothing, which is translated into "monochrome clothing" in Chinese, similar to the deep clothing in Zhou Dynasty. The sleeves are tight and narrow,

And the lower skirt is very short. This dress is knee-length and has many pleats at the waist. Now it looks like a pleated skirt with horizontal pleats at the waist. Collar types are mostly right collar, square collar and disc collar. The lower body is small trousers and the feet are wrapped in boots. At first, the waist was decorated with felt leather. Later, silk thread was twisted with gold thread or red and purple silk thread and wrapped around the waist, so as to tighten the waist when riding and get the outline of the body. The patterns of clothing are: the sun, the moon, the dragon, the phoenix and so on. The quality is mainly green and red cotton, and the dressing room is decorated with heavy punishment.

In Yuan Dynasty, men wore round neck robes, and in Song Dynasty, they wore cross collar robes. In the Song Dynasty, poor working people wore short clothes, hemp fibers, narrow skirts or barefoot leggings with a big belt around their waist. Most clothes are right-handed, cross-necked, hairpin or hat.

In the Yuan Dynasty, men's costumes were varied, with different names, such as deep clothes, coats, armor and Luo.

Shirts, mink, T-shirts, brocade shirts, shawls, regimental jackets, felt shirts, oilcloth coats, sleeves, army retreats, countless. Since the distance has been more than 700 years now, we can only understand their general situation through some images and unearthed cultural relics.

(4) Women's clothing in Yuan Dynasty

Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty also includes the costumes of Mongolian women and local women. Han women still retain the dress system of the Song Dynasty, and their tops are better than those of the Song Dynasty.

Thin and handsome back, shirt, cloud shoulder, etc. Wear a pleated skirt and comb your hair on your head. Later, under the influence of Mongolian women's clothing, more and more people put on robes made of dark brown coarse cloth or silk, with narrow sleeves and large belts. In addition, all kinds of single-breasted jackets, cotton-padded double-breasted jackets and half-sleeved jackets were popular among women in this period. Different from the costumes in the Tang and Song Dynasties, Mongolian women's costumes had their own national characteristics. Mongolian women wear robes. Mongolian women wear a wide and long robe with a collar on the right side of the coat. The sleeves are big but the cuffs are narrow, which is equivalent to the current bat shirt form.

(5) Men's wear in Ming Dynasty

In the Ming dynasty, some men's clothes were mainly covered with armor and electricity.

Armor is a vest worn by Ming officials, Dou Shi, soldiers, governors, waiters and ordinary people.

Style coat. Generally, it is worn outside other clothes in spring and autumn, with short sleeves to facilitate activities. There are embroidery patterns on the armor, and some frills are decorated with silk.

Shen, who originated in the Yuan Dynasty, is similar to the deep service system, but the bottom service of the deep service is twelve positive and twelve negative, which is bright and beautiful.

Dai Neichen wore a military coat with long and narrow sleeves, a round neck or square collar at the bottom, a horizontal pleat at the top, and a vest pleat at the side of the lower skirt, which is now pleated. At that time, in addition to the inner ministers, there were some foreign ministers and literati, which were agile and mobile clothes.

At that time, there were some clothes, such as shirts, jackets and skirts, which were the same as those in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and there was no big change.

(6) Women's clothing in Ming Dynasty

The dress of women in Ming Dynasty was different from that of the previous generation, but the influence of Scheeren and Yuan Dynasty could still be seen in the early Ming Dynasty. The left leg and narrow sleeve robe are still visible.

Here you are. Generally, narrow-sleeved shirts, suspenders and long skirts are all women's fashions. Women's skirts in Ming Dynasty changed a lot, and they were popular clothes. In the Ming Dynasty, aristocratic women used Zhen Hong, crow green and yellow, while ordinary women could only use purple green, pink and light color.

Beizi is one of the costumes of aristocratic women in Ming Dynasty, also known as "cloak", which is similar to Beizi and vest of the previous generation. Usually in autumn and winter.

For seasonal wear, most women also wear the back as a gift, and the style is big sleeves and wide body. Musicians can wear black backs.

Gabby was originally a clothing style in the Yuan Dynasty, but it was especially popular with women in the north. As a daily dress, it is stacked round and round.

Or cross-neck, sleeveless or short-sleeved, up to the arm or knee, and some are longer, less than a foot from the ground. Since the Yuan Dynasty, buttons have been more useful than armor, so it is more convenient, fast and tight to wear, which is a new change in clothing. Gabitong often wears a skirt under a big sleeve shirt and coat, so the color matching of Gabitong's shirt, coat and skirt can show a sense of hierarchy. In the Qing dynasty, except for the old lady who was afraid of cold and wore cotton cloth, Gaby was generally not worn.

Long coats and long skirts are a kind of casual clothes. The style of long coat is vertical collar, horizontal collar or double-breasted collar. The collar is fastened with metal buttons and the sleeves are narrow.

The leader and hem are predestined friends. Unlike coats before the Ming Dynasty, they usually reach the knees, so they are called "long coats". Purple and green are commonly used in clothing colors; The material of the coat is generally satin, satin, and the pattern on the coat is similar to a large sleeve shirt, which is usually embroidered.

In the Ming Dynasty, due to the prevalence of foot binding and the pursuit of "walking without revealing your feet", aristocratic women all wore long skirts to cover the feet of Jinlian.

The skirt is embroidered with knotted branches, or an inch or two below the skirt is embroidered with lace as a presser foot. Six skirts were used at first, which is also an ancient ceremony. By the end of the Ming Dynasty, the so-called "skirt dragging six Xiangjiang rivers" had become eight, with many fine folds at the waist, which walked like sparkling water.

Women in the Ming Dynasty also had a kind of underwear called "waist-girding". This is a dress that surrounds a woman's chest, revealing her shoulders, arms and upper part of her chest.

Different from the Chinese corset, it is made of wide gauze, wrapped around the chest, with buttons and embroidery.

(7) Men's wear in Qing Dynasty

In Qing dynasty, men usually wore mandarin jackets, collars, waistcoats, trousers, jackets and trousers.

Mandarin jacket is a unique fashion style in Qing Dynasty. It was originally worn by soldiers in the early Qing Dynasty because it was convenient to wear this kind of clothes.

Walking fast, so it is also called "victory jacket"; Later, it was called "mending robe" because it was often worn outside the robe. The structure of mandarin jackets is mostly round neck, double lapels, large lapels, pipa lapels (lack of lapels) and herringbone mandarin jackets; There are long sleeves, short sleeves, big sleeves and narrow sleeves, all of which are flat cuffs. During the Jiaqing period, mandarin jackets were often decorated with wishful inlays, which gradually became popular.

Collar, Wuzhou people call it "cow tongue". Because it looks like a cow's tongue, it hangs from the neck to the waist.

Sometimes, it is sandwiched in a belt. It is white and embroidered with patterns. This kind of clothing exaggerates the shoulders and narrows the waist, thus embodying the bodybuilding with wide shoulders and thin waist.

Vest, also known as "vest", ox arm, vest. This is a sleeveless coat that people wear outside their shirts in spring, autumn and winter. no matter

Men, women and children, regardless of rank, like to wear vests. This kind of clothing changed from crotch to vest in Wei and Jin dynasties, which has experienced more than 1000 years of history, and each period has its own characteristics. The vest in Qing Dynasty is characterized by various styles of lapels, the decoration of buttons and the organization of patterns, which absorbed the decorative style of northern riding and shooting national costumes, such as multi-button and multi-cow vest, that is, Batulu vest.

Men's wear in Qing dynasty, influenced by Manchu and northern riding and shooting nationalities, has long been out of the habit of wearing skirts, but ordinary.

Robes, jackets and trousers are the main clothing styles. Men's trousers in Qing dynasty were high waist, crotch and wide legs. Later, I also had satin trousers. Many men in the north tie their trousers with a flat belt, which is both warm and convenient for activities.

Pants are a kind of clothing worn by northern men in winter, spring and autumn. The two trouser legs are not connected together and worn in the pocket.

The back of the arm and thigh are exposed outside the trousers, which is a bit like the rain pants now, and the upper part of the trousers is narrow.

In addition to the above, Jiangsu farmers will also wear a kind of extremely short "cow's head pants" when working in rice fields, which are shaped like cows' heads.

It is convenient to work in mud and paddy fields, similar to the "calf nose pants" of the Han Dynasty.

(8) Women's Clothing in Qing Dynasty

The most remarkable thing about women's wear in Qing Dynasty is the function of buttons. Buttons were originally mainly used for dresses, but in the Qing Dynasty, buttons became various.

This kind of clothing is indispensable to clothes. Buttons were originally just decorated on the collar, which changed the collar of the collar and the collar of the plate from the ancient straight collar to the high collar. It turns out that the neck is always exposed, and with the button, it can be avoided.

In Qing Dynasty, Han women generally wore narrow-sleeved tops, shirts, waistcoats, skirts and trousers.

Cheongsam is a very popular robe among Manchu women, and later became one of the main clothes of Han women. The cheongsam worn by Manchu in Qing Dynasty was very different from the dress later called cheongsam, but later cheongsam was developed on the basis of Manchu robes. Qipao, which is extremely wide at first, has a tubular waist, and then gradually becomes smaller. Round neck, right collar, high collar or low collar, the high collar can reach about two and a half inches in the late Qing Dynasty. Cheongsam is divided into single, clip, cotton and leather, all of which are distinguished according to the changes of seasons. Robes are generally light in color. When Manchu women wear cheongsam, most of them like to cover it with vests.

Most of the costumes of Han women in Qing Dynasty followed the Ming Dynasty. Usually I put on a coat, shirt and skirt, and then I don't wear a skirt, but wear pants instead.

Coat shirts are mostly round neck, right lap, big lap, double lap, pipa lap, big sleeves and exquisite tailoring. Coat materials are mostly cotton, satin, yarn, silk and so on. And there are batik prints. Colors are sky blue, lake blue, pink, white and red. Fur such as mink and fox skin is also used in winter. The wrapping is also extremely complicated and exquisite. At that time, there was a saying of "eighteen embedments".

Generally, a good skirt has many styles. For example, the "pleated skirt" of Suzhou women has hundreds of skirts similar to knee-covering in front.

The "horse-face skirt" with pleats on the left and right is also called "Yue Hua skirt". Because every pleat of the skirt is covered with five colors, it is named Mingyue. There is also a kind of "playing with ink skirt", which plays with ink on the skirt mouth, elegant and chic, like an ink painting, rendering various changes; In addition, there are phoenix-tailed skirts, fish-scale pleated skirts, foreign-printed skirts, golden-mud butterfly skirts, embroidered phoenix skirts, full-flowered skirts, a jade skirt, a devil railing skirt, a rolled skirt with ornaments, and a jingling skirt, each with its own characteristics, which only highlights the slender women.

In the Qing dynasty, underage women all wore pants. Pants with high waist, folded crotch and long feet are not as fat as men's pants. When you wear it, tie the waist with a long belt and use the rest as decoration. Women's trousers are richer in colors and patterns than men's trousers, so you can choose according to your own preferences. In addition, women's trousers have a * * * similarity, that is, there are all kinds of frills on the trouser legs. In Guangxu, there were several layers of edges on trousers. The first layer was the widest, and the second and third layers were narrow. It's time to go to Xuan Tong. The trouser legs are thinner and narrower, and the hem is less than before.

The development of clothing in China reflects the evolution of politics, economy and culture. China culture is extensive and profound. Through costumes, we can learn about ancient China, from which we can reflect the civilized achievements created by ancient sages. The more familiar you are, the more you regret it. We are determined to learn from our ancestors, make outstanding contributions to the development and progress of the motherland, and comfort the heroes of our ancestors!