He wants to eat roast mutton, but he doesn't want to order the chef to cook it, so as not to become a harmful habit. He would rather starve until dawn.

Song Renzong is a gourmet, but he practices economy.

Life in the palace is very careful. Even Cao Shi, the queen of Song Renzong, wanted to be the rotten white fish that the emperor liked to eat, and she had to personally ask the minister's wife for ingredients.

At a palace banquet, the chef prepared 28 crabs. Song Renzong did not move chopsticks and said, "I haven't tasted it yet. How much is this crab? "

Answer left and right, 1000 yuan.

Song Renzong was very unhappy and said, "I have warned you many times not to be extravagant and wasteful. I am reluctant to spend 2800 yuan on chopsticks. " He put the plate aside as a warning.

The Song Dynasty was the heyday of diet, and the development of diet in China entered a "golden age". From temples to markets, dozens of cooking methods such as frying, boiling, boiling, frying, roasting, stewing, frying, steaming and soaking compete with each other and shine brilliantly.

The familiar phrase "rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea" comes from the dream of Liang Lu in the Song Dynasty. In "Tokyo Dream China", which can be called a guide to the Song Dynasty, it is described that the capital of Tokyo "gathers treasures from all over the world and returns to the city; The peculiar smell in Huihuan District was noticed in the grand scene of "kitchen".

Peach blossoms outside the bamboo are three or two, and the spring water warms the duck prophet.

Mei, Ouyang Xiu and Huang Tingjian in the Northern Song Dynasty, Lu You, Fan Chengda and Yang Wanli in the Southern Song Dynasty are all famous "gourmets", and they often write their own eating and drinking life into poems.

Among them, Su Shi, a gourmet who dares to admit that he is a "gourmet", commented on the essence of almond pulp, clams, crabs, wine and other foods in an article "Gourmet Fu", and finally "laughed wildly" and was excited about eating it. In Dongpo Zhi Lin, there are still many records about his research on food.

The Song Renzong Jinshi traveled all over the world all his life. He is not only good at discovering delicious food, but also speaks for it. There are n kinds of dishes named after Su Dongpo, namely Dongpo elbow, Dongpo cuttlefish, Dongpo crisp and Dongpo meat.

If the dietary aesthetics of Song Ci is the ultimate, we have to mention Su Shi's "Huanxisha, drizzle and slanting wind is Han Xiao":

Drizzle and oblique wind created Han Xiao, while light smoke created sunny beaches in Liu Mei. The time to enter Huaihai and Luo Qing is getting longer and longer.

Snow foam and milk flowers float in the afternoon, and Artemisia annua shoots try spring vegetables. Human taste is pure happiness.

In the seventh year of Yuanfeng (1084), the spring was chilly. Su Shi and his friends traveled to Nanshan and had a picnic in the mountains. In Song Dynasty, beginning of spring had the custom of giving away spring vegetables, that is, giving away vegetables, fruits and cakes to relatives and friends.

The fruits and vegetables such as Polygonum hydropiper and bamboo shoots in the spring plate are crisp and delicious, and the boiling water rushes to the snow-like milky white foam in the tea set. When the foam recedes, it is a cup of spring tea, which infiltrates the heart and spleen.

The phrase "human interest is pure joy" expresses a clear and indifferent life realm.

Su Shi often drinks tea, claiming that "the way to sleep is when you are sleepy, and a Japanese expert is thirsty for tea." In his view, the soul of tea-making lies in water, rain and snow are the most important, followed by those who are warm and cold in Jing Quan, the key lies in temperature, and the subtlety lies in utensils.

He also has a poem entitled "Water Tune Song Tou", which describes the process of picking, making, ordering and tasting tea, which is quite interesting:

It rained several times and it thundered the night before. Flags and guns fight to build a stream, and spring scenery pulls. Take a tongue, pound it to expose smoke, and make a pile of ziyun. It is easier to grind gold than to fly green dust.

The old dragon regiment, a true phoenix marrow, points to the future. In the rabbit's eyes, I suddenly felt my tongue retract. Arouse Qingzhou, fight back the sandman million, and never dream of the balcony. There is a breeze under my arm and I want to go to Penglai.

Even if the world is full of hardships, you can say "go to tea" to enjoy life. Su Shi spent most of his life in exile and suffered from wandering, but he always treated life with optimism. One of the main reasons may be that he was accompanied by delicious food.

Political opponents were abandoned, and Su Shi was constantly relegated, from Chibi in Huangzhou to the bank of the West Lake, from Lingnan seaside to Hainan Island in the ends of the earth, but wherever he went, Su Shi was surrounded by delicious food.

When Su Shi was in Huangzhou (now Huanggang, Hubei), the local pork price was low, and the rich didn't eat it. The people could afford it, but they didn't know how to cook it, which wasted excellent ingredients.

Do it yourself and have plenty of food and clothing. Su Shi personally cooked and developed pork, made it into Dongpo pork, and wrote down his own secret recipe of food, which was vigorously promoted among the people: "Huangzhou good pork is as cheap as dirt, the rich refuse to eat it, and the poor don't know how to cook. He is beautiful only after slow fire, little water and sufficient heat. Get up and play a bowl every day, and you are too full to care. "

A famous dish handed down from ancient times was born, and its original intention was actually Su Shi's act of benefiting the people as an official in the local area.

Later, he was demoted to Huizhou (now Huizhou, Guangdong). Su Shi is not depressed because he is remote, but just wants to "be a Lingnan person with 300 lychees a day when he grows up".

After being demoted to Hainan, Su Shi learned to cook oysters again. After tasting their delicious food, he also wrote to the minister of Korea and said sourly, "If Chinese and Korean scholars don't know, they will try to migrate to the south to share the taste." Su Dongpo said wryly, if they knew, I'm afraid they would all struggle to come to the south.

In order to eat, Su Shi is not even afraid of death.

When the spring river is slightly cold, ducks playing in the river have already felt the arrival of spring in the river. This season is a good time to eat puffer fish. Puffer is a delicious food, and Su Shi's heart is kind, so he wrote in his poem:

Two or three peach blossoms outside the bamboo forest and ducks in the water first noticed the warm spring.

The beach is covered with wormwood, asparagus is beginning to sprout, and puffer fish are preparing to swim upstream from the sea back to the river.

However, the entrails of puffer fish are poisonous. If you are not careful and don't handle it properly, you may die of eating by mistake. Others ask for money to eat, and this thing tastes terrible.

Once Su Shi risked his life to taste puffer fish, and others asked him how it tasted.

Su Shi said calmly, "Death is worth it."

This food is too fairy.

Even the millet is prosperous, and Qiong Yi is difficult to settle down.

Although accompanied by delicious food, Su Shi still has a sense of loneliness in his long wandering years, as written in this song "A Traveler in the South Song Dynasty":

Mountains and songs meet, and waves are intoxicating. Visitors all went up to the thirteenth floor. I don't envy western bamboo songs and ancient Yangzhou.

Long and steady, Qiong Yao fell into a jade boat. Whose water sings first. Sound flies around Bishan, and clouds stay at night.

Zizania latifolia, or Zongzi, is named after Zizania latifolia leaves can wrap Zongzi. This poem was written by Su Shi when he boarded the 13th floor of a local scenic spot during the Dragon Boat Festival. Besides zongzi, there are long luck made of chopped tender stems of calamus, and wine in jade pots and cups.

The Dragon Boat Festival in the Song Dynasty has had multiple cultural implications, and it is no longer just an evil month to avoid disaster. Song people prayed in memory of Qu Yuan on the Dragon Boat Festival, drinking calamus wine and eating zongzi together.

In Song Dynasty, glutinous rice was used as stuffing, and there were many kinds of zongzi, such as drum zongzi, dumpling zongzi and Jiuzi Zongzi. However, there was no dispute between the sweet party and the salty party at that time. Song people eat zongzi, and most of them like to dip in sugar.

Another kind of food in Song and Summer is "Fresh by the Woods" made of bamboo shoots in early summer.

In Song Dynasty, hermits in the mountains did not need to go up the mountain to pick, but only needed to "sweep the leaves and cook bamboo" when bamboo shoots were in full bloom in early summer, which was very delicious.

This delicious food is called "the first product in vegetable food", which is recorded in the book Shanjia Qing Palace written by Lin Hong, a hermit in the Southern Song Dynasty.

Lin Hong is a strange man. His poems, paintings and calligraphy are exquisite, but he doesn't want to be an official, just seeking a secluded life in the mountains. His Confessions of a Mountain Family is a wonderful book integrating diet, health preservation and literature, which records more than 100 kinds of delicacies in the Song Dynasty in the form of notes, covering a wide range.

In the eyes of traditional literati, Lin Hong's life can be described as a maverick, a marginal person with no sense of existence.

However, he felt at ease, moved his family to the deep mountains, and called his wife "the mountain wife". Throughout his life, he drifted away from the secular world and devoted himself to the gourmet world of Bi, Huai, Sancui and Jinji dishes, taking writers such as Su Dongpo as idols.

In an involution society, he always insists on being himself and living the life he wants.

Once, Lin Hong had nothing to do and went to visit his good friend Chen Jie. Wearing a horn scarf, Chen Jie looks extraordinary and elegant. He invited two boys to sing Jin Tao Yuanming's "Gui" and offered "Huangsonggao" to accompany the wine.

The muffin is made of pine yellow and refined honey, and it has a special fragrance. Lin Hong thinks that the world's famous dishes such as hump and bear's paw are far less delicious than Shan Ye's Songhuang cake.

What is more important than spiritual pleasure and satisfaction? This is also the meaning of food.

In addition to the delicacies from the mountains, in the summer of Song Dynasty, due to the progress of ice storage technology, people already had ice and snow to eat, and some even sold ice drinks along the street.

The autumn iced drinks in Jiulongzhai and Xidan archways are known as "the first in Kyoto", which is probably equivalent to the online celebrity shops of that era. According to records, their sour plum soup was "boiled with sour plum and rock sugar, mixed with ice water of roses and sweet clover, and cooled their teeth", which was very popular at that time.

Behind the rise of cold drink shops in Song Dynasty was the rise of the civil class after the boundary between Fang and history was broken.

In Zhang Zeduan's masterpiece The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival, there are 45 small and medium-sized businessmen all over the street, which can be clearly identified as restaurants, and various characteristic signs have appeared, which can be called the originator of advertisements with goods. According to the court statistics of the Song Dynasty, there were 86 kinds of famous cakes at that time, and some people counted more than 100 kinds of wine names in the Song Dynasty.

In addition, Song people ate more omnivorous grains and drank more tea than the previous generation, and gradually popularized the three-meal system, so that even ordinary people could eat three meals a day.

Because of the development of folk catering industry, many time-honored brands in Kaifeng were moved after the Southern Crossing in Song Dynasty, and Song Gaozong also ordered people to buy food in restaurants in Lin 'an (now Hangzhou, Zhejiang) from time to time.

Looking at the sky, the silver carp is delicious, and the autumn wind is back.

The emperor often went to eat outside the palace and accidentally ate his stomach. Song Gaozong's adopted son, Song Xiaozong, is a crab addict. Once he had diarrhea because he ate too many crabs.

Autumn is the best season to eat crabs, especially the female crabs in autumn. If crabs are frosted, they will be fatter.

The Southern Song Dynasty imperial court was located in the southeast, with dense waterways and frequent maritime trade, and fresh river seafood was inexhaustible. There are dozens of dishes based on crabs, such as Gong Ao, crab soup, wine crab, drunken crab, raw crab and washed crab.

Lu You, a native of Jiangyin County, Shaoxing, is a crab eater. Even when he was old and frustrated, eating crabs and tasting wine still made him shine. As he said in his poem, "navel cream four-cheeked bass is fresh for ten years." The moon is full of dust in Wan Li, and the dream soul is drunk in the West Lake. "

Before Su Shi and after Lu You, as the spokesman of eating goods in the Southern Song Dynasty, there were thousands of articles about food in Lu You's poems, and he preferred Jiangnan food in his hometown.

During his decades of official travel, Lu You pinned his concern for his hometown and his ambition for food here, such as this poem "Double Lotus Flowers" written to his old friend Fan Chengda:

The stars are in the temples, but the ambitions are in the air. This body is like a gift. Depression is a disease. Go into the darkness and destroy the heroic spirit of that year. Dreams break the mountains and rivers of the old country, separated by heavy smoke and water. In Wanli, the old society is dying out. Who remembers the handsome tour?

I am busy in Jinli, sighing that the official has been idle for a long time, and Chai Jing has slept. Clear your mind and get drunk. Who will pay attention on this occasion? Even with Chu and Wu Qiang, when will they die in the East? Looking at the sky, the silver carp is delicious, and the autumn wind starts again.

Perch and leek are typical Jiangnan flavors, and Zhang in the Jin Dynasty had a famous thought of simmering perch. Lu You's ambition is to set the Central Plains in the north, and he is ups and downs in the official sea. He can't drive home like Hans Zhang, so he can only miss the delicious food in the autumn wind and bow his head in meditation.

The diet is not expensive and smells bad. Royal chefs only use mutton.

People in the Song Dynasty advocated mutton-based meat consumption, juxtaposing mutton with ginseng. They think that mutton is "sweet, hot and non-toxic", which is suitable for eating in cold weather and can be said to be delicious in winter.

According to "Tokyo Dream", there are dozens of kinds of delicious food made of mutton in Song Dynasty, such as stewed sheep, noisy sheep, steamed sheep's head, fried sheep intestines and so on.

Song Renzong and Su Shi mentioned above are both mutton lovers.

Su Shi is also a good cook of sheep. He has an exclusive secret recipe to remove the smell of mutton: "First put the mutton in a pot, boil it with two or three walnuts with shells, roll it for three or four times, and remove the walnuts." Add three or four more, cook them, and then cook them. No smell. "This is probably the legendary treasure boy.

Although Song Renzong lives frugally, he doesn't want to work hard to eat sheep at midnight. However, there is a record in Song Renzong that more than 280 sheep were slaughtered in the palace one day, which shows the position of mutton in the diet of the palace.

Before and after the Jingkang Revolution, the Song court had already abandoned the frugal and self-made life style in the early Northern Song Dynasty.

When Emperor Wendi Song Huizong was in power, every banquet was listed as eight treasures, and there was no place to put chopsticks, which showed the extravagance of food. Song Huizong himself often personally directs banquets and pays special attention to tableware. The materials used are agate, coloured glaze, crystal and jadeite.

After extreme luxury, he and his son Song Qinzong were captured by the Jin people and suffered humiliation. From then on, the golden urn and the jade plate were only in dreams.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, in Shaoxing, Song Gaozong, Minister Zhang Jun hosted an unprecedented banquet for the emperor, and accepted more than 65,438+090 kinds of dishes, among which only mutton dishes included seven kinds of mutton dishes, such as mutton tongue paste, mutton head slice, roast mutton head, mutton tongue holding fetal soup, spread mutton rice, roast mutton, chop mutton and so on, and the rest of the luxury dishes were too numerous to mention.

Compared with the barbecue in the Tang Dynasty and the Manchu-Han banquet in the Qing Dynasty, this kind of banquet is even worse.

Zhang Jun's "The First List of the Great Song Dynasty" dedicated to Song Gaozong was included in the Wulin Biography. Song Gaozong's monarchs and ministers did not go down in history because of this gluttonous feast, but were despised and laughed at.

The decadent life of emperors and bureaucrats is not worthy of praise. Only literati like Su Shi, Lu You and Lin Hong who really love food and life will be remembered, and their works and spirits will remain immortal.

Lin Hong, who has retired from the mountains, once satirized local politicians in Confessions of Shan Jiaming, who only cared about eating and drinking and neglected political affairs: "The meaning of drunkenness in the world is not wine, but eating its freshness!" It can be seen that this bad habit has spread from the imperial court to various places.

Shi Hao, the prime minister of the Southern Song Dynasty, also described the extravagance of Lin 'an Palace Banquet in Slow Xi Xi Xue Yan:

The wind is falling and the fog is hiding. The mountain is full of jade and rocks. There were no horses and chariots in the street, and the silver cups passed by. Xu Tao arrived late, calmed his anger, and practiced floating smoothly without causing waves. The best thing is that the fisherman goes home, bulging and carrying a gun.

The situation was a tin banquet in the Eastern Tang Dynasty. The dragon was in a hurry, and the mink announced that it would persuade Jinhe to retreat. To celebrate this Kerry, there should be more millet next year. Heaven foresaw the mixing and spreading of Qiong Yao and mountains and rivers. This feast is full of glory and drunkenness.

Prosperity and frugality are often true prosperity. On the contrary, the more luxurious the banquet in the Song Dynasty, the more decadent the court was. The dignitaries in the Southern Song Dynasty "made Hangzhou a border state" in exchange for the absurdity of the Northern Expedition and the blood and tears of Yashan.

References:

Su Shi: Dongpo Zhi Lin, Zhonghua Book Company, 198 1.

[Song Dynasty] Shao Bowen: Records of Shaw News, Zhonghua Book Company, 1983.

[Song] Senator Meng: Dream of China in Tokyo, Zhonghua Book Company, 2020.

[Song]: "Old Wulin Stories", Zhejiang Ancient Books Publishing House, 20 1 1.

[Song]: Confessions of Mountain Family, Zhonghua Book Company, 20 13.

[Yuan]: History of Song Dynasty, Zhonghua Book Company, 1985.

Xia, et al. Dictionary of Song Ci Appreciation, Shanghai Dictionary Publishing House, 2003.

Wang Xuetai: The History of China Food Culture, Guangxi Normal University Press, 2006.