There are many kinds of fried rice in Yangzhou, such as "gold wrapped with silver", "fried rice with assorted eggs" and "fried rice with vegetables".
The so-called "gold-coated silver" is to wrap a layer of golden eggs on the outer layer of rice grains. Its practice is: first put the rice into a pot and stir fry, and then evenly wrap the broken egg liquid around the rice. The fried rice in this way has a golden yellow outer layer and a white inner layer.
Assorted fried rice with eggs is the most typical variety of Yangzhou fried rice. It has many ingredients, such as eggs, sea cucumber, ham, green beans, shrimp, pork tenderloin, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, chopped green onion and so on. When making, fry the eggs first, then fry other ingredients, add clear soup and salt to adjust the taste and put them away for later use. Then start frying rice until the rice grains are clear and there are no lake spots. Finally, pour half of the fried eggs and other ingredients into the pot, stir well, and then put two-thirds on the pot. Then stir the remaining ingredients with the rice in the pot and cover the fried rice in the pot. The fried rice made in this way is very beautiful, and there are many ingredients on it. It's really delicious and can be seen! [Edit this paragraph] Addendum frying method:
Yangzhou fried rice, in fact, is different from place to place. Let me teach you one of the most common practices. It is also the simplest ingredient and tastes good.
Ingredients: (main ingredients) green beans \ carrots \ ham \ sausage (this can also replace sausage, which is delicious) \ eggs \ rice (preferably overnight rice).
(Accessories) Garlic Seed \ Onion.
Salad oil \ salt \ chicken essence \
Production: (1) First, wash carrots and ham and cut them into dices. The smaller the better. Of course, you can't cut it into foam. Then wash the auxiliary materials and cut them into foam. Beat the eggs and add a little onion foam.
(2) Put a little salad oil in the pot and heat it to 80% heat. Stir-fry the chopped main ingredients and chopped garlic foam in a pot. When you can smell the fragrance (this process only takes a few seconds), put the eggs in the pot and stir fry. At this time, you need to increase the heat, so that the eggs will be soft and not easy to fry. ) When the eggs are fried until golden brown, put them on a plate.
(3) Add a little salad oil and heat it to 80% heat. Put the rice in the pot and turn it over. At this time, add a little salt and chicken essence to the rice. It is not advisable to put too much chicken essence, otherwise it will be too fresh and not delicious. When the rice is fried until the rice grains can jump in the pot, all the ingredients and accessories that have just been fried are returned to the pot and stirred until the rice grains are soft and not sticky.
The rice made in this way is soft, fragrant and delicious.
Another way to eat:
Materials:
Sandwich ham (50g), prawn with a knife (104g), eggs (2), green beans (35g), white rice (2 bowls) and shallots (1).
Seasoning:
Oil (5 tbsp), light soy sauce (1 tbsp), chicken powder (1/2 tbsp), salt (2 tbsp).
Exercise:
1 knife head and tail of new prawn, peeled and washed; Dice the ham, cut the onion into chopped green onion, and beat the eggs into egg liquid.
2 Boil the water in the pot, add 1 tbsp salt, pour the green beans into the water for 30 seconds, scoop up the supercooled river, and drain the water for later use.
Heat 2 tbsp oil, stir-fry diced ham over low heat, pour in fresh shrimp, stir-fry until it turns red, and serve.
4 Add 3 tablespoons of oil to heat, pour in the egg liquid, and wait 10 second. Add white rice and stir-fry until the rice grains are loose and golden yellow.
5 Pour ham, shrimp and green beans and stir fry 1 min until the ingredients in the pot are evenly mixed.
6 Add soy sauce 1 tbsp, chicken powder 1/2 tbsp, salt 1/3 tbsp, and stir well, then serve.
Tips:
1, white rice should be cooked one night in advance, put in the refrigerator for one night, and then cook fried rice with eggs. This kind of rice will be full and dry, and its taste will be very elastic.
2. Stir-fry the diced ham on low heat, then add the shrimps and stir-fry. Stir-fried diced ham is easy to burn and scorch.
3. The secret of fried rice with eggs is to heat the dry pot first, pour the oil into the egg liquid, and add the rice to stir fry quickly, so that the golden rice can be fried delicious.
4. It is advisable to season fried rice with light soy sauce. Don't use soy sauce with light soy sauce or excessive color, otherwise the color of rice grains will be dark and ugly.
5. Green beans are one of the protagonists of Yangzhou fried rice. Although the price is a little more expensive, the appearance and taste are good, and soybeans can be used instead, but the taste is much worse.
local color
Yangzhou fried rice, also known as Yangzhou fried rice with eggs, was originally spread among the people. According to legend, it originated from the broken golden rice that Su Yang, King of Yue in Sui Dynasty, loved to eat, namely fried rice with eggs. When Yang Di visited Jiangdu (now Yangzhou), he also introduced fried rice with eggs to Yangzhou. Later, it gradually represented the chef's innovation, softened into Huaiyang cuisine with the characteristics of "strict selection of materials, meticulous production, exquisite processing, attention to color matching and original flavor", and finally developed into one of Huaiyang's famous staple foods. Yangzhou-style restaurants in Europe, America, Japan, Hong Kong and other places have also listed this food, which is very popular.
There are many kinds of fried rice with eggs in Yangzhou, such as fried rice with clear eggs, fried rice with golden eggs, fried rice with crescent eggs, fried rice with shrimp eggs, fried rice with ham eggs, fried rice with three fresh eggs, fried rice with assorted eggs and so on.
Yangzhou fried rice with eggs, from the perspective of material selection, the main ingredient is refined white indica rice or new white japonica rice instead; It needs to be cleaned with water before cooking. After a little soaking, put it in a pot and cook it until it is cooked thoroughly, without hardness and loose particles. Avoid burning when frying rice. When cooking, stir-fry the auxiliary materials into toppings with gravy. Add some soy sauce to the gravy, which is called (tooth color stir-frying), without soy sauce, which is called (white stir-frying), and serve with famous porcelain. There is a saying that "delicious food is beautiful". [Edit this paragraph] Carry forward 2500 years ago, Fu Cha, the prince of Wu, dug a canal and entered the last mouth of Huai River (now the north of Huai 'an Chuzhou District), becoming the first artificial hub on the ancient canal. Forcha probably didn't expect that this earliest canal not only created a prosperous Yangzhou, but also made Huai 'an. In the Sui Dynasty, Huai 'an also became one of the four major cities along the canal.
"Qingkou" is the entrance of Surabaya into Huai 'an. In the Yuan Dynasty, the Grand Canal was curved and straight, and the pivotal position of Qingkou was even more important. It is the throat of water transport, which has a bearing on the overall situation, and finally formed the historical position of Huai' an "South Ship and North Horse". Kangxi made six southern tours, all of which visited the Qingkou River in person, and Qianlong made six southern tours and came to Qingkou four times. The unique phenomenon of "south ship and north horse" also made Yangzhou fried rice reach its peak in this "boarding".
I shook hands with Yangzhou for more than two thousand years.
Huai 'an and Yangzhou "shook hands" for more than two thousand years! After the opening of the North-South Canal, these are two important cities that ships must pass through.
Huai 'an "prospers with water". On the bank of the ancient canal, the monument that reads "South Ship North Horse, Landing by Boat" is particularly eye-catching. Not far from the ship's landing, there are two ancient gates built in the Ming Dynasty-Qingjiang master gate and Qingjiang crossing gate, which are the only well-preserved ancient gates in the Ming Dynasty on the canal. Wu Shuo, a senior chef in Huai 'an, said that Huai 'an is a land of "South Boat and North Horse". Because it is difficult to get to Xuzhou by boat, they usually abandon the boat and board the bus. When northerners arrive in Huai' an, they have to transfer ships south. Such a traffic "transit" place naturally shows the freedom and integration of food here, and Yangzhou fried rice has also become swaying and dazzling.
Wu believes that it is precisely because of this feature that Huai 'an cuisine is universal, so that people from all directions can eat enough. The characteristics of traffic "transshipment" connecting north and south make the connection between Huai 'an and Yangzhou food culture "broken". By carefully comparing the dishes in Huaiyang and Yangzhou, it is not difficult to find that this kind of * * * is really synchronous: there are bean curd soup as thin as cicada wings and as thin as hair; There is also a "big article" about roasting the whole pig's head. The recipes in the two places are basically the same, but each has its own characteristics. Say Yangzhou fried rice, Huai' an Yangzhou fried rice, the taste is relatively heavy, and the ingredients are not as good as Yangzhou; The cooking of Huai 'an long fish is known as the first in the country, while the white cases in Yangzhou, especially steamed buns, are ever-changing. Spring shepherd's purse, summer dried vegetables, autumn wild duck meat and winter bamboo shoots are not only moderately salty and sweet, but also light and delicious, reflecting the harmony between man and nature.
Fan Chengtai, former deputy chief engineer of Huai 'an Water Conservancy Bureau, commented on the close relationship between Huai 'an and Yang: During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Department of Water Transportation of the Governor's Department and the Governor's River were both located in Huai 'an, while Yangzhou had two salt-transporting yamen, both of which had heavyweight state institutions and occupied an important position in the national economy.
After more than 2,000 years of "shaking hands and making peace", economic and cultural exchanges between Huaiyang and other places are frequent. For example, salt merchants in Qing Dynasty lived in Huai 'an "under the river". Its architectural style and lifestyle are similar to those of salt merchants under Yangzhou River, so Huai 'an River is called "Little Yangzhou". Huang Junzai's "Golden Pot Waves and Ink" describes Huai 'an salt merchants in this way: "When you are outside, your servants are like smoke and horses are flying, and you admire each other. Their followers are so close to the literati that under the guise of fame, they are actually elegant people, a guest for a while and a string for a while. The speaker's eyes are' Little Yangzhou'. " Later, as the salt industry center moved to Yangzhou, many Huai 'an salt merchants also moved to Yangzhou. In all kinds of communication, Yangzhou cuisine has close communication with Huai 'an cuisine, which is probably one of the reasons why the word "Huaiyanglai" appeared late.
300 million taels of silver make "Huai 'an Cuisine"
Huai 'an has become a hub city because of the Canal, and it is also called "Four Metropolis" with Yangzhou and Suzhou and Hangzhou. The Qing Dynasty was the center of salt industry, water transportation, shipbuilding and river management, with more than 0/0000 ships and 0/5000 non-commissioned officers.
Accompanied by Wang Weihua, deputy editor-in-chief of Huaihai Evening News, we visited the ruins of Cao Yun Governor's Mansion and the basically restored Governor's Garden "Qing Yan Park". From the early Ming Dynasty to the middle Qing Dynasty, these two places were ministerial-level institutions in charge of state grain granting, inspection, storage and transportation, water control and grain transportation. The existence of the two places is closely related to the prosperity of "Huai 'an Cuisine": represented by the Governor's Office of Yanyuan River in Qing Dynasty, it is known as the "silver casting restaurant with flowing seats". Every year, it ranges from 6 million yuan to12 million yuan, and one third is spent on river management, corruption and bribery, and eating and drinking. According to historical records, from the mid-Qianlong period to the end of Daoguang period, this department allocated nearly 320 million silver from the special fund for river regulation.
China official's son has a banquet, and there are also salt merchants who spend money like water. "When the silk tube is drunk, the diners will come to 3,000 households", which is a fashionable trend, and there are also "residents can eat more money every day". Grand hotels and restaurants do everything possible to attract famous chefs, collect the world's treasures and creatively introduce exotic flavors.
It is conceivable that Yangzhou fried rice entered the upper class and various folk classes in Huai 'an in many aspects under the same cultural background as Yangzhou and Huai 'an. Thus, in such an atmosphere, a large number of "Huai 'an Cuisine" chefs emerged in Huai 'an. The large number of chefs, the high overall level and the fierce technical competition attracted the attention of the world at that time, forming three styles: inviting chefs, taking chefs and sending them. People recommend famous chefs to superiors, colleagues, relatives and friends as the best way to contact their feelings. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, it became common for foreign envoys to take cooks and receive gifts.
Yangzhou fried rice has various interpretations.
Wang Weihua, deputy editor-in-chief of Huaihai Evening News, specially took us to Gong Tianfei Hotel in Chuzhou District of Huai 'an to experience Yangzhou fried rice in Huai 'an. Huai' an cuisine pursues Huai' an production, and the materials are convenient for cooking Huai' an cuisine. Wang Weihua said that in the 1950s and 1960s, the governor of river courses was abolished, and later water transportation was changed to sea transportation. Huai 'an's political and economic status plummeted, and the whole catering industry almost collapsed. Under the advocacy of knowledgeable officials and local sages, Huai 'an's kitchen industry swept away extravagance and returned to localization, following the example of Yangzhou cuisine in pursuit of lightness, health and delicacy. Huai 'an cuisine has finally merged with Yangzhou cuisine in essence. Under the banner of modern Huaiyang cuisine, we can see the dance of food culture in the two cities.
The dance of food culture is unique in Yangzhou fried rice. Wu made his own interpretation of Yangzhou fried rice: in the ancient "Eight Treasures of the Zhou Dynasty", there were two kinds of bibimbap with meat sauce. The burning of glutinous rice in Huaiyang cuisine evolved from this, but later generations wrapped glutinous rice and meat sauce with a piece of dough. It can be said that burnt glutinous rice is a kind of "fossil food". Won't this creative thinking of bibimbap with meat sauce have an impact on the formation of Yangzhou fried rice? Wu went on to say that in Huai 'an, there are three ways to mix fried rice, one is fried rice with a poached egg on its head; The other is the popular "egg white fried rice" in the upper class, which specially removes the egg yolk and only uses egg white fried rice. This is called "silver-fried silver", which seems to be intentionally different from the traditional "gold-coated silver". The third kind is similar to the standard Yangzhou fried rice, with shredded pork, shredded winter bamboo shoots, dried Bess and other ingredients.
Yangzhou fried rice has evolved in various ways in Huai 'an, both for the reasons of canal geography and cultural isomorphism. It is strange that the authentic Yangzhou fried rice has eight meats and three dishes. It is said that Yangzhou fried rice is not famous for its rich "Yangzhou fried rice", but the real "master" is in Guangzhou. However, it was Yangzhou people who set the standards and put forward the "application for the World Heritage". However, there are many people who flaunt Yangzhou fried rice in the world, but the materials and practices are different. What the authentic Yangzhou fried rice looks like is probably unknown to most people. Therefore, giving Yangzhou fried rice a certain "standard" can at least filter out some fried rice that lacks "qualification" and ensure its purity. Some people equate Yangzhou fried rice with egg fried rice, which is very inappropriate. The reason can be explained from its origin. There are many legends about the origin of Yangzhou fried rice, which can be summarized as follows: First, Su Yang, King of Yue in Sui Dynasty, created the broken golden rice. Emperor Yang Di was lucky in Yangzhou and spread it there. During Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty, Yi Bingshou stayed in Yangzhou. On the basis of fried rice with scallion and egg, he added shrimps and diced lean meat to form the basic pattern of fried rice in Yangzhou. First, the word "Yangzhou" in Yangzhou fried rice is not a place name, but the name of the ingredients, which is a combination of "barbecued pork" and "fresh shrimp". In Cantonese cuisine, all dishes with these two main ingredients are labeled as "Yangzhou". For example, during the Guangxu period, there was a famous dish in Guangzhou Huaiyang Cuisine Hall called "Yangzhou crispy rice", which was made of shrimp, barbecued pork and sea cucumber. After the chefs in Guangzhou have tasted it, they think Cantonese food has no crispy rice. Why don't you replace the crispy rice with rice or barbecued shrimp fried rice? It's really popular. First, it is said that the clients in brothels used to beg for food from pimps when they were hungry at night, and the pimps asked the cooks to fry the leftovers from dinner together. There are many cooks in Yangzhou, so this kind of fried rice is called Yangzhou fried rice. None of the above can prove that Yangzhou fried rice is another name for egg fried rice, although it is really fried with rice and eggs. In short, authentic Yangzhou fried rice should have some important symbolic materials besides scrambled eggs. Food experts said that in recent years, a new "standard" stipulates that the main ingredients of Yangzhou fried rice are: 500 grams of white rice and 4 grass eggs; Ingredients: 20g of sea cucumber, 30g of cooked grass chicken leg, cooked refined ham10g, scallop10g, 50g of mud lake shrimp, 20g of mushrooms, 30g of cooked fresh bamboo shoots and 0g of green beans10g; The seasoning includes leek powder 10g, lake shrimp seed 1g, refined salt 6g, Shaoxing wine 6g, chicken soup 10g, and salad oil 60g. According to Zhao Baole, the host of CCTV 4, the so-called authentic Yangzhou fried rice must have "eight meats and three dishes" to qualify. It's a pity that the author failed to grasp it and couldn't remember it at all, or misinformed that "eight meats" were ham, scallops, sea cucumbers, shrimps, chicken, chicken gizzards, barbecued pork and sausages; The "three elements" are mushrooms, winter bamboo shoots and green beans. Why is Yangzhou fried rice so popular? I thought it was the fast food style combining vegetables and rice that played a decisive role. Limited space embodies the maximum capacity. In other words, if we eat Yangzhou fried rice without the above ingredients, then this kind of fried rice is not qualified to be called Yangzhou fried rice. But in many small restaurants, the menu is marked "Yangzhou fried rice". Experience tells us that they usually can't be "genuine". Since the "goods" are not real, the "price" cannot be "real". Yangzhou fried rice is a China delicacy with world influence. Former US President Nixon likes Yangzhou fried rice best and often goes to Chinatown to satisfy his desire. George W. Bush is also a fan of Yangzhou fried rice. It is said that he ate it every two or three days when he was in Shanghai, and the last time he ate it in a hurry before boarding the plane. In addition, on the first day of the Beijing Olympic Games, the most popular food was "Yangzhou fried rice"-more than 3 tons were eaten a day. Indeed, although roast duck can represent China cuisine, its influence is far less than Yangzhou fried rice. Some people say Yangzhou fried rice can be eaten all over the world. I don't have the luck to travel around the world, and I dare not go with the flow, but as far as the "exotic places" I have been to (even remote places), Yangzhou fried rice and goo goo meat are often delicious, and they are likely to come at the drop of a hat.