There are two main uses of climbing equipment: one is to ensure the safety of this sport, and the other is to make climbers perform better. The former includes the main rope, safety belt, iron lock, protector, flat belt, quick hanging, rock plug, rock nail, expansion nail, pendant, impact drill, rockfall pad and helmet, while the latter is relatively simple, mainly including hiking shoes and magnesium powder bags.
1, main rope
Cross the combination line of climbers, protection points and protectors. The main rope is an indispensable lifeline in rock climbing protection. The inner side of the main rope is twisted multi-strand nylon rope, and the outer side is covered with rope skin for fixation and wear resistance.
The main rope can be divided into power rope and static rope, and their elasticity is different. The elastic coefficient of the power rope is 6% to 8%, and the power rope of 100m can be extended by 6 to 8m when the force is 80KG, so that the climber can be cushioned when falling and reduce the impulse. Power rope is the main tool for all kinds of rock climbing activities. Static rope has small ductility and elasticity of about 2%, and is generally used for descending and exploring holes.
Only the main rope that has passed UIAA or CE inspection and has its certification mark can be used, and the main rope with unknown history is not used.
Precautions for the use of main rope: absolutely avoid crosscutting at the sharp rock angle; Do not trample or drag on the ground to prevent debris and fine sand from entering the fiber and causing internal wear; Avoid contact with oil, alcohol, gasoline, paint and acid-base chemicals; Check before and after each use, and eliminate it regularly; Store in a cool and dry place when not in use.
Step 2: Seat belts
The safety belt is fastened to the climber and bears the weight and momentum generated when the climber falls off or falls. The belt of the seat belt is the stressed part, and the rest of the leg belts are designed for comfort and convenience.
Before climbing, climbers and protectors should check with each other whether their seat belts are fastened. Only the belt and the retaining ring bear the weight, and other parts cannot bear the weight of the human body; The bearing capacity of the equipment ring is below 5 kg.
The waist belt and leg belt with wide sponge pad are comfortable but heavy, suitable for indoor climbing and alignment; Competitive rock climbing requires skilled seat belts; When traditional climbing or equipment climbing, it is necessary to consider whether the number and position of equipment rings are appropriate.
3. Main lock
Iron lock is a metal ring that can be opened and closed freely, connecting all kinds of protective instruments and equipment together.
The threaded iron lock can lock the iron lock door in the closed state when the screw is tightened, so as to avoid the danger of accidental knocking; Ordinary iron locks are light in weight and easy to operate, and can be used for temporary protection points. If ordinary locks are used for fixed protection, the principle of double iron locks and opposite doors must be followed.
The longitudinal tension of the iron lock is greater than the transverse tension; When the iron lock door is opened, the longitudinal tension will decrease; The iron lock door is the weakest link and cannot be directly stressed. The correct way to use it is to keep the iron lock door closed and stressed longitudinally.
Avoid falling from high altitude or being hit by hard objects; This will bring internal cracks and make the iron lock invalid.
In the case of possible falling, such as pioneer climbing, the climber should directly connect the main rope with the safety belt, and cannot use the iron lock as the intermediate link.
Using UIAA or ICC certified iron locks, the history of iron locks is unknown.
4. Protective device
When the main rope passes through the protector in the right way, its special structure can increase the friction force, so that the braking end of the main rope can control the weight of the stressed end with a small grip force.
In the past, the figure-of-eight protector was the most commonly used, but it would make the main rope twisted and wound repeatedly. ATC solved this problem very well.
GRIGRI, REVERSO and other protectors will lock themselves under certain conditions, but they must be used correctly. Ensure that the main rope passes through in the right way, and distinguish between the braking end and the stressed end; For protectors that cannot be self-locked, always hold the braking end of the main rope when using.
5. Rock cone
Protective equipment made of various cone, nail and plate metal materials fixed on the rock wall can use different shapes of rock cones according to different cracks.
6. Flat belt
Flat belt: a kind of soft belt, which forms closed loops with different lengths by mechanical sewing or manual knotting, and provides soft connection between protective devices.
The strength of mechanical sewing is greater than that of manual knotting, but the length of flat belt can be adjusted freely by manual method to meet the needs. The moving main rope cannot directly pass through the flat belt, otherwise the friction heat brought by the movement will damage the flat belt.
When erecting fixed protection points, two or more temporary protection points can be connected with flat belts. At this time, we should pay attention to the connection mode of flat belt, and distinguish the main stress point from the standby stress point; It is also necessary to ensure that when a temporary protection point fails, it will not impact other protection points and will not affect the overall protection effect.
7. hang up the phone
Quick hanging: the two ends of the flat belt are connected by iron locks to form a quick hanging. When in use, one end is buckled into the protection point, and the other end is connected with the human safety belt or the main rope, which brings convenience to the operation.
The iron locks at both ends of the quick hook are not threaded, which is in danger of being accidentally opened or forcibly pressed open. Therefore, when there is only one quick hook, it cannot be used as a fixed protection point.
Fast suspension is used as a temporary protection point in the route of pioneer climbing or traditional climbing. At this time, the fastening mode of the main rope and the opening direction of the quick hook are very important. The main rope is required to pass between the fast hanger and the rock wall and out from the outside, that is to say, the rope end of the climber is on the outside; If the route is transverse, the iron lock door at the entrance end of the quick hook should face the opposite direction of the route. If the route is from left to right, the opening of the iron lock should face the left. This can prevent the rope from pressing the iron lock door when it falls off.
8. Rock bolt
Rock plug: metal products with different specifications and shapes can be placed in rock crevices, caves, stone bridges and other terrain and fixed as protection points.
Taking the rock plug as a protection point requires rich instrument experience, and the operator must be very cautious to ensure that the rock plug will not move or fall out in the possible stress direction.
The rock plug without mechanical parts is mainly fixed in the narrow part of the rock fracture by using its own asymmetry and the shape change inside the rock fracture.
9. Mechanical plug
The shape and size of the mechanical plug can be adjusted, and it can enter the rock crack in a contracted state, and it can be stuck after bouncing off. Easy to operate and wide in application, it is a good choice for climbing traditional routes.
Being familiar with the diameter and application scope of various rock plugs will greatly improve the operation speed, and the rock plug rod can be marked if necessary.
10, rock nail
Provide another method to establish protection points; One end is wedge-shaped to provide protection by driving a wedge into a rock crack, and the other end is ring-shaped to connect an iron lock or a flat belt. It should be reminded that two nails driven into the same rock crack may pry open the rock.
1 1, expansion nail
Using impact drill and hammer, the expansion nail can be driven into the whole rock, and the hanging piece becomes a very stable protection point.
12, pendant
One side is fixed on the rock wall with expansion nails or screws, and the other side can be fastened with iron locks or quick hooks, or connected with flat belts; Is an important part of the protection point.
13, magnesium powder bag
Auxiliary equipment, magnesium powder can absorb sweat on hands and moisture on the surface of rock wall, and increase friction.
14, boulder pad
A protective means in bouldering, which provides cushioning and shock absorption.
Inside the bouldering pad are two or more layers of sponges with different textures. The top is a hard closed sponge, and the bottom is a thick soft open sponge. Soft sponge makes the slobber sink rather than disperse the pressure, which is easy to scratch the wrist and ankle, so the hard sponge layer should be placed on the rockfall pad upwards.
Where it is possible to fall, a boulder pad is needed; If the number is not enough, the protector can drag the mat with the climber's action.
15, helmet
Effectively prevent head injuries caused by falling rocks and abnormal falling postures. Helmets should be worn correctly to protect the forehead, back of the head and sides. Never look up or put your head in your hands when falling rocks appear. Let the helmet work when there is nowhere to hide.
16, hiking shoes
The sole adopts special rubber, which greatly increases the friction. From ordinary shoes to hiking shoes, it is an important change to improve the climbing level.
When using, you should choose a smaller size, and wrap your feet tightly when putting them on, so that your feet can become a whole, which is beneficial to enhancing the sense of feet and facilitating accurate stepping and exertion.
There are many kinds of climbing shoes, suitable for different rocks, rock wall angles and different climbing methods.
17, hanging tent
When preparing to spend the night on the rock wall, the night sleeping tent must be fixed and protected by ropes through fixed points and hung on the rock wall.
Brief introduction of rock climbing
Rock climbing, I believe many people have heard of this sport, or seen it on TV or on the spot. However, I believe that most people have never tried it, because rock climbing is not as challenging as other ordinary sports, and it requires enough courage and courage to meet these challenges.
Rock climbing is a dangerous activity, but don't imagine it as horrible. As long as you can overcome your inner fears, make full understanding and preparation in advance, understand all the basic methods of rock climbing, and take safety measures to ensure foolproof!
Rock climbing can give the upper body a good exercise and develop beautiful lines, which can't be achieved by other sports. In rock climbing, the coordination and flexibility of the body will also be greatly improved, which is helpful for our future work and life. We need to keep a high degree of attention in the process of rock climbing, so it is also beneficial to improve our concentration.
The benefits of rock climbing
1, increase body softness and sense of coordination.
This is the key ability of rock climbing, and its importance exceeds physical strength; Rock climbing has been used for correction in the medical field abroad. Children's muscle development and coordinated training of hands, eyes and body.
Step 2 strengthen your physical strength
Rock climbing requires a balance of strength and beauty, and it is enough to bear its own weight and defying gravity. In this matter, girls are no less than boys.
Step 3 focus (attention)
Paying attention to every detail of the body's displacement on the rock can cultivate a person's concentration on things.
4. Enterprise
When you climb a rope to bear the load and hang it on a high rock wall or tower, do you give up or continue to insist? What can be described is not only courage, but also willpower, sense of honor and determination to surpass oneself.
Step 5 be confident
In the face of a rock field at least three or four times taller than himself, he is naturally more self-respecting and confident than ordinary people.
6. sense of balance
Known as the "Spider-Man" walking on the rock wall, the basic posture of walking is to move at three o'clock, relying on a sense of balance! And there are many benefits in will. In a word, rock climbing is a sport deeply loved by young people and is of great benefit to our physical and mental health.
Injury and prevention of rock climbing
According to 1995, the medical investigation report of 42 professional climbers by the American Sports Climbing Association (ASCF) pointed out that the most common sports injuries of climbers include the following 1 1 injuries to hands, shoulders and elbows. Then, we will further analyze and introduce the causes, symptoms, diagnosis and treatment of the first eight kinds of injuries.
Hand sports injury
1. Injury of finger collateral ligament: The sprain or fracture of finger collateral ligament is the most common sports injury in rock climbing, in which the' proximal interphalangeal joint' of middle finger, index finger or ring finger and the' metacarpophalangeal joint' of thumb are the main injuries. When the climber digs the pocket with dynamic action, the' proximal interphalangeal joint' of the middle three fingers will bear great force and bend greatly in the X direction; Pinch is easy to sprain the thumb's metacarpophalangeal joint. The most common symptoms of patients are swelling, stiffness, chronic pain and limited joint activity. If the fingers bend unsteadily when applying pressure to the affected part, it means that the lateral collateral ligament has been completely broken. If the patient only feels pain, but the affected part is still stable, it may just be a sprain. As for the treatment, if the ligament is just a sprain, let the affected area rest, ice compress and reduce swelling. Then, the affected finger and the adjacent finger are bound together by the method of' merging and fixing the adjacent fingers', and the back side of the deformed joint is lightly pressed to guide it to reset. After two weeks of fixation, you can let your fingers do a trial exercise. The swelling and pain in the affected area will last for months, but you can still climb. If the ligament is completely broken, the patient needs to see a doctor for further diagnosis and treatment to evaluate the feasibility of surgical treatment. If non-surgical treatment is used, it may be difficult for fingers to exert force after recovery.
2. Flexor tendon injury: Each finger has two flexors (except thumb), of which the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon can flex the proximal interphalangeal joint and metacarpophalangeal joint; Flexor digitorum profundus can bend distal interphalangeal joint, proximal interphalangeal joint and metacarpophalangeal joint. When climbing, the closure method is easy to tear the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon; However, it is easy to tear the flexor digitorum profundus tendon when digging the capsule. When the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon is torn, the proximal interphalangeal joint will be difficult to bend; When the flexor digitorum profundus tendon is torn, the distal interphalangeal joint is difficult to bend, and the affected part is painful and swollen, which is the same as the loss of grip strength and pinch strength. During the examination, straighten the proximal interphalangeal joint and bend the fingertip as much as possible. If the affected finger cannot bend the distal interphalangeal joint, it means that the flexor digitorum profundus tendon is injured. As for checking the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon, you can put your palm on the table, keep the four fingers on the outside of the affected finger in the extended position and bend the affected finger. If you can't bend, it means that the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon of your finger is injured. As for the diagnosis and treatment, patients should seek medical treatment quickly after injury, so as to correctly judge the condition and evaluate the possibility of surgical repair. If surgical treatment is decided, it must be completed within two weeks.
3. Injury of pulley 3.A2: Each finger has five pulley rings to connect and fix the bone finger and tendon (except thumb), and the tendon often bends and rubs the pulley, resulting in tearing. The second ring pulley is located near the proximal phalanx and metacarpal and interphalangeal joints. Climbers often tear their poles at close range, especially the middle finger and ring finger. According to statistics, about 40% of professional climbers have medical records of' second ring pulley' injury. In severe cases, the second annular pulley will be completely broken, resulting in that the flexor tendon can no longer fit the phalanx and will bow, which is called' (bowstringing'). It is difficult to diagnose the damage of the second ring pulley, and only by nuclear vibration or computerized tomography can the cause be correctly detected. As for the treatment, if it is only a pulley laceration, you can wrap the affected finger with adhesive tape and stop climbing for 2-3 months; But if the endless pulley has been completely broken, it must be repaired by surgery.
4. Trigger finger: It is an inflammation of the flexor tendon sheath of the finger, which most often occurs in the' first ring pulley' of the middle finger, ring finger or thumb (A1pull). Normal tendons will slide back and forth in pulleys that maintain activity space. However, if the tendon produces nodules due to inflammation, the nodules can still pass through the pulley when the fingers are bent, but they will get stuck on the palm of the pulley when stretched. If you are not careful, your fingers can only be pulled apart by external force, and when the nodule squeezes over the pulley, it will make a sound similar to a trigger. When it is severely inflamed and swollen, your fingers may even get stuck in the bend. As for the examination, tender nodules can be directly felt in the affected part, mostly located in the' metacarpal and interphalangeal joints'. In severe cases, the extension or bending of the proximal phalangeal joint will also be restricted. As for the treatment, the metacarpal bone and interphalangeal joint can be fixed with splint to make them in an extended posture (about two weeks), short-term non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) or local injection of steroids. However, because repeated steroid injections may lead to rupture of flexor tendon or sensory nerve injury of fingers, if the condition does not improve within one month or after two steroid injections, surgical stripping or removal of the adhered tendon sheath should be considered.
(2) Sports injury of shoulder
The so-called shoulder joint is the joint formed between the glenoid lip of the humerus and the scapula, and the clavicle spans it to form a acromioclavicular joint with the acromion. The glenohumeral joint is a kind of ball-and-socket joint. The humerus is wrapped in a shallow glenohumeral fossa, and its stability is provided by the active glenohumeral ligament, passive deltoid muscle and rotator cuff. In this narrow space, frequent friction and collision among joints, tendons, ligaments and bursas will cause shoulder injuries such as rotator cuff tear, subacromial bursitis, biceps tendonitis and supraspinatus tendonitis, which we call "(impact syndrome)". The common conditions of seizure syndrome include the following three types:
1, rotator cuff tendinitis: rotator cuff is composed of subscapular muscle, supraspinatus muscle, infraspinatus and teres minor, which surround and cover the humerus and play an extremely important role in the stability of shoulder joint and arm movement. However, because the rotating belt is close to the arcuate protruding tissue composed of acromion and pecking process, frequent friction will cause the fracture of the rotating belt, especially the injury of the supraspinous tendon.
2. Bursitis: There is another tissue called bursa between the rotating belt and acromion-pecking process, and its function is to reduce the friction and collision between them. Frequent impact will cause inflammation of bursa, especially subcapillary bursitis.
3. Tensitis of biceps brachii: The rupture, swelling and inflammation of the rotating belt will cause abnormal blood supply to the tendon, further accelerating the wear and tear of the long head tendon of biceps brachii, and even breaking it.
Patients with pinch syndrome usually have pain in the anterolateral shoulder, the range of motion of the shoulder becomes smaller (especially the arm can not be held high above the head), and the arm muscles are weak. The purpose of initial treatment is to relieve pain and swelling, adjust training methods and rest the affected part. Then physical therapy such as muscle strength enhancement exercise (the training of trapezius muscle and serratus anterior muscle) and shoulder stretching exercise can be used, and short-term non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs or local injection of steroids can also be used if necessary.
Elbow sports injury
The most common elbow injury of climbers is the so-called epicondylitis. Epicondylitis can be divided into' medial epicondylitis of humerus' (commonly known as golf elbow) and' lateral epicondylitis of humerus' (commonly known as tennis elbow) according to different causes and injury points. Among them, the medial epicondylar of humerus refers to the starting point of superficial flexor and lateral wrist flexor, while the lateral epicondylar of humerus refers to the starting point of extensor and lateral wrist extensor. Therefore, the probability of medial epicondylitis is high because of the characteristics of focusing on flexor strength in rock climbing. Epicondylitis refers to the tearing, inflammation, swelling and other symptoms attached to the starting point of the medial (lateral) epicondyle of the humerus due to the traction of the flexor (extensor) muscles of the forearm. Its symptoms include tenderness in the center of medial (lateral) epicondyle of humerus, and extensive tenderness in flexor (extensor) and flexor (extensor) wrist muscles. As for the treatment, if the pain recurs due to proper rest of the affected muscles, physical therapy such as local hot compress or ultrasound, and muscle stretching and strength training of the affected muscles, patients can consider fasciotomy.
Preventive measures of rock climbing injury
(1) basic principles
The following principles will help climbers identify warning signs of sports injuries and prevent them before they occur.
1, gradually improve the training intensity and give the body enough adaptation period.
2. Don't try to be brave if the point is not within the finger load range.
3. Cultivate correct training methods and correct climbing methods or habits that are easy to get hurt.
When you are injured, you must change your plan as soon as possible, and don't make your illness worse because you are eager to get better.
5, try to balance the climbing action, so that the pressure is shared equally by all muscle groups.
6. Don't do anything beyond your physical load because of the pressure or expectation of the audience.
7. Avoid stretching the joint to the limit, otherwise it will cause damage to the surrounding tendons or tissues.
8. The intensity of training is really determined by personal ability.
9. In order to develop muscles in a balanced way, the strength of antagonistic muscles must be trained at the same time.
10. Muscle flexibility training during exercise can avoid injury.
1 1. Don't ignore the symptoms of inflammation and swelling, otherwise it will delay the recovery of the affected part.
12, don't rely too much on painkillers, because while reducing swelling and pain, it will also cover up the warning issued by the affected part and reduce your immunity.
13. No matter how subtle the symptoms are, we must be vigilant and take active precautions.
(ii) Mode of implementation
1, warm-up and exercise: Warm-up before exercise is the primary task to prevent sports injuries. As far as rock climbing is concerned, you can climb the wall for 2-3 minutes through a simple route to promote blood circulation until your body sweats slightly, but the principle is not to pull your arms. Then, in order to increase muscle elasticity and avoid strain, you can do 20 minutes of soft exercises. The principle of stretching movement is as follows: each movement remains still 10 second; Don't press hard after muscle tension; Tendon has the feeling of being pulled, but it is not painful; Keep the principle of light and slow, and keep breathing deeply; Repeat each action 2-3 times. The finishing exercise after climbing aims to stimulate blood circulation, take away metabolites and reduce muscle pain. The implementation steps are the same as those during preheating.
2. Flexibility training: Flexibility training can strengthen the extensibility of muscles, which is very important to increase the range of joint activity and prevent muscle strain. In addition, the better the degree of muscle stretching, the greater the increase in muscle strength, and people with poor softness are more likely to suffer from tendinitis. In order to prevent hand, shoulder and elbow injuries, upper body flexibility training should include stretching of neck joints, shoulder joints, biceps, triceps, deltoid muscles, flexors, extensors and back muscles.
3. Muscle strength training: Incomplete development of muscle strength is often the cause of many sports injuries. For example, some climbers have tendinitis because the strength of biceps brachii is much greater than its antagonistic muscle-triceps brachii, which leads to the tearing of triceps brachii tendon. For rock climbers, the training of antagonistic muscles should focus on the strength of forearm extensor, triceps brachii and back muscles to cooperate with the development of forearm flexor, biceps brachii and abdominal muscles. Secondly, in order to reduce the incidence of shoulder attack syndrome, it is necessary to strengthen rotator cuff muscle, lower trapezius muscle and serratus anterior muscle. To increase the stability of the shoulder joint.
4. Arrangement of training plan: The correct training plan can not only avoid the occurrence of sports injuries, but also help the injured parts recover after injuries. In order to fully recover, it is necessary to insert rest days into a series of mountaineering days. In principle, explosive training must be separated by two days, and strength and endurance training can last for two consecutive days, but there must be equal rest days. Muscle endurance training can last for 3~6 days, and then rest for 1~2 days. Secondly, there must be enough rest time between each route when climbing, generally 5- 10 minutes. In addition, you should avoid trying the same action repeatedly or choosing a fixed route during training.
5. Avoid trying dangerous actions: In addition to minor injuries, sometimes some dangerous actions, such as dynamic, backstroke, locking and digging rocks, may also cause acute sports injuries such as muscle and tendon strain or ligament sprain. In principle, try to climb in a static and balanced way, avoid stretching your limbs to the limit, and choose to give up if you feel a little pain.