Professor Hu Side's new book explores the relationship between food culture and China's society and politics.

In his new book "Early Food, Sacrifice and Saint Hood in China" published this week, Raul Sterckx, a professor of Sinology at Cambridge University in England, points out that China's food culture contains a way to survive. He revealed this to the BBC? Hide recipes? .

Professor Hu Side believes that as early as 2,000 years ago, the culinary arts provided many key concepts and metaphors for China's philosophy and political thoughts, and the symbolic significance carried by these food cultures still affects China society.

When talking about how diet was originally associated with political philosophy, he said: As an ancient historian in China, through years of studying historical documents, I found that people often quoted cooking metaphors when describing emperors, sages and politicians of past dynasties, and many visual narratives originated from food culture, which made me curious. ?

After studying the written records of more than 800 years after the 6th century, he discussed the importance of China's rich cooking culture to ancient and modern society, politics and culture.

? The most delicious soup?

According to Professor Hu Side's research, many ministers, advisers and advisers of Chinese emperors were cooks or butchers.

He said:? Chefs, butchers, waiters and other occupations concretize some talents necessary to shape leadership. For example, in order to prevent one flavor from overwhelming another, all cooking spices should be put in the same year, which just embodies what we often say is harmony, justice and equality. In addition, the concepts of order and standardization are also manifested in the equal amount of knives when cutting meat and proper distribution when delivering vegetables. ?

Yi Yin, the founding minister of Shang Dynasty, was the first virtuous assistant in the history of China. He is a superb cook, but for a time, the meals he cooked for King Shang Tang were always too weak or salty.

When asked about this matter, he took the opportunity to explain his idea of governing the country. Cooking should not be too salty or too light. You have to adjust the ingredients. Governing the country is like cooking. We should not be too hasty or too slack. Only when it is just right can things be done well. ? Since then, it has been popularized and reused.

Taking Yi Yin as an example, Professor Hu Side described how he changed from a famous chef to a saint, and inspired King Shang Tang to be in power with his cooking skills.

The earliest document in the cooking history of China, Lu Chunqiu's Ben Wei Pian, recorded Yi Yin's cooking experience. To taste? Stories about soup also happened in Qin and Han Dynasties.

At the same time, Professor Hu Side also believes that knowing when, where and how to eat properly, toasting at the right time, inviting others to the banquet in the right way and greeting guests at the banquet are all qualities that a good king should possess. ?

Cambridge high table vs China dinner

Unlike many westerners, Professor Hu Side is very interested in the dining table in China. Philosophy? He even compared the high table dinner in Cambridge with the state banquet in the ancient palace of China.

He said:? In many formal dinners or banquets, the focus is not on eating or consumption itself, but on interaction, mutual understanding, exchange of views or mutual introduction. ?

? In China, whether ancient or modern, eating has a certain political dimension. For example, the arrangement of seats on the dining table should reflect the status of guests; When picking vegetables, they should also be sorted by generation; Whether it is a toast or a gift, it should be based on the level of the guests; In addition, the tableware used by VIPs and ordinary guests will be different. ?

? At the same time, the banquet was also a good opportunity for the emperor to test his courtiers. Many emperors would entertain their political enemies as a means of conspiracy, and then take the opportunity to weaken them or take the opportunity to eradicate them. ?

Professor Hu said that the banquet in ancient China was also a social place, where people exchanged poems, articles and music scores after dinner. He said with a smile: The banquet in ancient China was very rich and luxurious. I hope to have a chance to attend it! ?

China's dinner reminded the British professor of the formal high table dinner at Cambridge University, which he thought was very similar to China's dinner. In contemporary society, if you want to communicate with people, the best way is usually to invite them to dinner. At the dinner table, "ceremony" is very important. How to behave appropriately at a banquet represents a person's accomplishment. Taking students to this formal dinner is also a way of education. ?

Royal cookbook

In this new book, Professor Hu Side tells how the monarchs and politicians in ancient China adjusted their diet according to the changes of reality and environment. For example, in times of famine, they will reduce the number of meals accordingly; If the country suffers from floods or droughts, they will become vegetarian and pray.

? Eat without talking, sleep without talking? Is a well-known old saying in China, and Confucius, the founder of Confucianism? Never tire of eating? Professor Hu was deeply impressed by the dietary philosophy of "frugality" and "full sharing".

He said:? I also like to eat simple meals, because simple meals themselves embody the thoughts of China's sages, and not overeating also embodies the concept of moderation. ?

? In addition, Confucius, a great thinker in China, is a typical example of adjusting the diet structure according to the political environment. He knows how to control drinking on important official occasions. Although he often attended various banquets in the court, Confucius never let himself get drunk. ?

Professor Hu Side also believes that the nutrition taken from food will affect a person's moral quality.

He said,? There are many medical records that the unborn fetus will be influenced by the mother's eating habits. Therefore, concubines who are pregnant with the descendants of the emperor are not allowed to eat food that has a negative impact on the spiritual growth of the fetus. This is what people in China now call' prenatal education'. ?

Stinky tofu and Qin Shihuang

Professor Hu Side not only devoted himself to studying the history, science and civilization of ancient China, but also traveled all over the country in his spare time and tasted delicious food.

He said:? I like Chinese food very much, and sometimes I try to cook a few Chinese dishes myself, but I dare not compare with those famous chefs before! My favorite Chinese food is a very simple home-cooked dish-tofu. From fried tofu, tofu soup to stinky tofu, I especially like them. I used to eat it in Taiwan Province Province when I was a student. ?

In addition, white water is also one of Professor Hu's favorites. He explained:? If you have read Taoist classics, you will find that they think white water is the most important drink. Because, although white water itself is colorless and tasteless, you can mix it with any other ingredients. This is an interesting philosophical truth, and the simplest is the most fundamental. ?

During his twenty years in England, he was glad to see that China food was so popular.

Finally, talking about China's most admired emperor, Professor Hu Side said: From the specific time span and personal ability, it is undoubtedly the first emperor of China-Qin Shihuang. In his short decades of rule, his achievements are impressive. ?