I prefer using the customized Avatar to the default MD Avatar. In this case, I used the scanning manikin I bought in 3dscanstore.com, and of course I made many modifications to this model.
Most of the time I don't make specific patterns, and most of the time I rely on my eyes!
Here is a simple way to get the basic plate, that is, to segment the corresponding wear area with UV on the Avatar model. In this case, I made shorts, so I cut the UV from my thigh to my waist. This step may be unnecessary, but this is how I do this teaching.
Specify the model you want, and then the options menu will pop up (Figure 1). I use inches as the unit, click ok, and your Avatar will be imported into the scene file (Figure 2).
Sometimes the model I import may be larger than the original model (130% or 150%), and then I export the MD and scale it back to the original size. The advantage is that better curling effect can be obtained. But I find zooming very painful, so I seldom do it.
Avatar editor is used to control the colors and highlights of Avatar, specify the map and adjust the skin offset (Figure 2).
The most important thing in this step is to adjust the skin offset. This parameter is used to set the distance between fabric and body. The default value is 3mm, which can perform well when the particle distance value is 15-20. In the stage of adjusting the wrapping effect, I like to lower this value to about 1mm and set the particle distance to 8- 18. If we only reduce the skin deviation without reducing the particle distance, it will be easier to cause clothes to be interspersed and it will be more painful.
Figure 1. Control position
Figure 2. Control length and perimeter
Show and hide the bounding volume:
Disply & gt Avatar & gt shows the boundary outline.
Show and hide adsorption points:
Shift+f
Many people will ignore this step and directly choose to adjust the fabric to fit the model. Although the process of adjusting BV and AP is painful, it will save a lot of time in long-term projects. If I need to reuse avatar, then I will do BV and AP at the beginning and then save it.
Create a square cloth in the 2D view and open the 2D map display (Figure 1).
Under the fabric tab, click Add New fabric, and then click the four square icons to specify the UV pictures you saved (Figure 2).
Your cloth will look like this (Figure 3).
The central controller can adjust the position, and the upper corner controls the zoom and rotation (Figure 2).
Adjust to the right size.
Use curve points for thinning (Figure 2)
Final separation (Figure 3)
Then, you can delete the UV map reference yourself.
Right-click the panel and select Clone to Symmetric Mode (Figure 1).
MD5.5 or earlier, right click > copy-right click > paste symmetrically.
Hold down the shift key to align the movement (Figure 2).
Repeat the operation (Figure 3)
I like to be as symmetrical as possible. Symmetrical plate stitching will automatically generate corresponding related stitching lines, and the right-click menu can remove symmetry.
Use the adsorption point to place the cloth (Figure 1)
Then suture (Figure 2).
Then the initial simulation results are obtained by using the particle distance 10- 15. Here we mainly observe the flanging effect and lay the foundation for other details (Figure 3).
With the bottom plate, I can adjust the fit, or add interior lines, cloth, sewing lines or cutting according to the reference.
I will make the basic fabric structure that fits me in most processes, but I won't export it in the end, so I can make the secondary and tertiary structures better.
Next, I will increase the thickness of the basic fabric to increase the sense of volume.
Select all basic structures, right-click and select Layer Clone (Overlay) (Figure 1).
Copy the cloth and place it outside in the 3D view, and then sew the corresponding inner and outer lines (Figure 2).
Figure 1: Not copied
Figure 2: Replicated
I slightly enlarged the outer layer, about 3-5%, to refine the minor details (Figure 3).
Figure 4: A hint, it is best to click the point in the middle of the deformer to zoom.
The following gif shows the difference between the two:
In order to make the leg filling effect, I first draw the shape with internal lines (Figure 1).
Then right-click the newly created inner line > Clone as Pattern to create a new cloth.
Create a new structure, assign it to the new structure, and adjust some parameters (Figure 2).
Finally, sew this cloth back to the inside line and operate symmetrically (Figure 3). The same is true in the back.
Then clone the layer of the filling cloth and add the pressure parameter in the attribute editor, which is about 5- 10.
Draw a new cloth along the inner and outer lines and enlarge it by 2-5%. Set the layer order to 1 and stitch.
It is similar to the previous step of making a cushion, freezing a piece of cloth and then sewing it.
Make sure that the fabric layer sequence above it is finally set to 1.
One:
1. Create an inner circle
2. Add the dart to the center
3. Separate the dart edge and attach it to the circle.
4. right-click dart: order > Send to back, and select internal line enlargement.
5. Right-click the inner row: Clone to schema.
6. Copy dart to new cloth
Two:
In the fourth step above, copy and paste. Right-click and a dialog box will appear. You can set the copy interval and number of copies along a straight line.
Now you have holes, but you can't simulate the edge drawing effect.
1. Freezing hole
move
3. Use 1 layer to simulate pinholes.
Here is a gif illustration: This technology can also simulate the wrinkles on the jacket.
Sometimes you will find that no matter how a piece of cloth is adjusted, the hem effect is not good. At this time, you can try to cut twill.
Real fabrics are wrinkled in the weaving direction, such as denim, which is woven at 45 degrees and is easier to bend. You can also rotate the cloth 45 in the MD direction to simulate this effect.
Another use of freezing is to keep fit without nails.
Create a basic cloth, sew along the bottom, nail the edge, then create an internal shape, extract it as cloth, sew it back inside, simulate to get a good curve at one time, freeze, layer clone, delete stitches and nails.
I added some rounded corners to the key parts.
1. Select the frozen ribbon fabric, and clone the upper and lower layers, so as to correctly place two new fabrics (inside and outside) in the 3D view.
(1) Thaw the new cloth and delete all stitches except the highlighted one.
(2) Enlarge the new cloth horizontally to increase the elasticity. I gave it 50 mm here.
(3) sew a-b c-d and d on both sides.
(5) It should be like this in 3D view.
Add elastic properties to the green part (1).
Note that I set the line segment length to the same value as the original length (2)
The final waistband (3) can be moved back to the position of the main body, and the main body can be reactivated and simulated once to ensure the correct result.
Your elastic length should always be the same as the length you want to shrink.
Now deal with the details of the third level, using the adjustment of weft and warp and the elastic thread of the internal line to make it.
Usually I use a ratio of 95- 100% and a strength of 30-40.
Maximum use 105 weft or warp.
Weft and warp yarns are used to adjust the transverse and longitudinal lines of the whole fabric. The warp is vertical and the weft is horizontal. When the value of warp exceeds 100, more vertical folds will appear, and when the value of weft exceeds 100, folds similar to those in elastic belt will appear. Increasing both will loosen the fabric.
Finally, I adjusted the whole particle value by about 5, which is probably the final model accuracy. I decided to simulate the influence of lace on the back fabric by cutting some internal lines, increasing elasticity and playing with the folding angle in the attribute editor. In the attribute editor, I set it to 40 strength and 260 folding angle (1) to give people the impression that lace is deforming the front edge of the cloth. I created more proxy pattern blocks, placed them where the lace was, adjusted their addl' thickness collision to 15 to make them appear thicker in the simulation than in the actual situation, and frozen them. (2) I simulate and move them close to the clothes several times until I get the required deformation in the pattern.
As the final derivative model, I set the particle accuracy of the model at about 2 or 3. In general, even if I am so fine, I like to do whatever I want. The red part of the plate will not be exported, but only used for calculation in MD. When exporting, I set the model as quadrilateral. Then I can export this model to other software for topology or continue to add details!