A small town with two rivers and beautiful scenery.

In spring, you can enjoy flowers and smile like flowers; In the hot summer, you can enjoy the cool summer and enjoy the green; You can see maple leaves in autumn, which are colorful as makeup; In the cold winter, you can comment on the snow scene, which is as exquisite as water. Coupled with the simple folk customs and prosperous farming culture, my heart is hot and my eyes are greedy, which arouses my feelings of going and rippling.

In early summer, the day after the baptism of a storm, we went all the way from the reinforced concrete metropolis to Heyu Township, Chengkou County. The slender and curved fish crossed the river of peace, and the gurgling was as clear as the sound of strings. The fresh air on the river is refreshing, washing away the dust on the road and the impetuous block in my heart, which makes people feel refreshed.

Fiona Fang, a land of rivers and fishes, is only 130 square kilometers with a population of only 5,000, but it is nourished and beautiful by two rivers of life-Duyu River and Heping River. Two rivers surround He Yu Township like two jade belts, and an arc-shaped bridge spans the river, which looks like a fish mouth from a distance, vividly presenting the image of He Yu Township like a "live fish" to the world, and its potential implication is self-evident.

Going upstream along the Duyu River Canyon, I saw a pavilion next to it, which read "Little Bridge Flowing Water Family". Bamboo and wood are lush, beautiful and straight, and the stone path is winding and remote, as if entering a winding and secluded Jiangnan town, full of poetry and painting. By the river, a middle-aged woman was washing clothes in the river, and two little boys were playing naively beside her. A little boy picked up a stone by the river and gave a cry of surprise from time to time. Another little boy sat on the stone and played a flute made of bamboo leaves. A picture of folk customs came into view.

Walking leisurely along the flowing Pingxi River, the river is as smooth as practice, crystal clear, and the thick green is eye-catching. The artistic conception of "Jiang Qingshan is like a jade hairpin" arises spontaneously. Walking along the river, the mystery of graphite plate, the story of river fish fighting bandits, the hidden beauty in Huanglong cave, the magical white horse bay, the folklore of the second gate ... how brilliant and proud, how hearty. The tinkling Pingxi River seems to be pouring out the vicissitudes of life and the suffering of the people in the past day and night, and is also singing with deep affection about today's prosperity.

Looking around, not far from Qifengjing Bridge, Qiu Zi, Gu Song, the mountains are covered by heavy mountains, and the sky is open, with artillery beams, toad stones, Shimenzi, Eagle Mouth Rock, Niumaotou, Lion Mountain, Hong Ying and other scenic spots in front of us. Its mountains are steep and towering, and there is one kind. " Daba Mountain is rugged and majestic, one next to the other, rolling in the lush forest. It can be said that thousands of peaks and valleys are hidden in clouds, majestic and beautiful, just like dragons and tigers leaping, giving people a kind of tall, straight, simple and upward strength beauty, which is awe-inspiring. The vast and lofty blue sky is even more fascinating. The faint white clouds are gentle and quiet, the bright sunshine is particularly warm, and the slow mountain wind has become gentle and fragrant. At this time, facing the majestic Daba Mountain and looking up at the boundless blue sky, I immediately remembered the French boys I met when I traveled to Paris, France in 2002. Their dark blue eyes are bright and clear, like the blue sea, pure without any impurities, just like the river in front of me and the blue sky over the fish town.

Green mountains and green waters are still there, and blue sky and white clouds are always there. Why not make people think about flying and yearn for it?

Between the sunny breeze and weeping willows, there was the call of pheasants. "Across the Sang Yu, there are many crows in the city". The fresh and simple earthy flavor of farming culture that is always revealed in the ravine makes me even more fascinated.

On the way to the Agricultural Museum, in the fields along the way, corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes, radishes, oats, bitter buckwheat, rape, pumpkins, tea ... like elegant poems, they walked briskly through the vegetable garden. Coupled with the intermittent cicada language, the singing of floating birds, the tinkling sound of mountains and streams, these natural graceful scenes and clear sounds have transformed my infinite emptiness and made my mood green.

"Farming and farming show the ancient charm of the countryside, and the landscape is a good overview of the pastoral map of Pingxi." At the entrance of the museum, a pair of couplets is impressive, telling all the connotations of He Yu's beautiful natural landscape and farming culture. In the museum, another couplet is even more meaningful: a history of farming, folk customs throughout the ages, and a horizontal comment-farmers all over the world.

What a farmer! In the long history, Chinese descendants planted grains, herded six animals, combined agriculture and weaving, and integrated Confucian culture and various religious cultures, forming their own unique language, drama, folk songs, agricultural proverbs, paintings, customs and various sacrificial activities, creating a splendid farming culture. The earliest farming culture in China is recorded in Shouguang Bone Inscription "The Plough of Huangdi", which has a history of more than 4,600 years. At the bottom of the picture, a middle-aged man, wearing a big hat and a half robe, with his feet spread apart, raised his right hand to sow seeds, some of which were falling to the ground. ...

In the Book of Songs, the first poetry collection in China, the farming culture is recorded in more detail. His poem "July" depicts a magnificent picture of farming: "July is full of fire, and September gives clothes. The first day I was fat, the next day I was fierce. No clothes, no brown, why did you die? On the third and fourth day, I stood on tiptoe. I am very happy to be in the south with my daughter-in-law. "

As for the description of farming culture by literati and poets in past dynasties, it is generous with pen and ink. For example, Tao Yuanming, a poet in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, said: "Nanshan is full of beans, and the seedlings are sparse. In the morning, the reason for waste and filth is to bring the lotus home with the moon. " Weng Juan, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote: "The mountains and rivers are white, and the sound of Zigui is like misty rain. In April, there were few idle people in the countryside, so they only planted fields to raise silkworms. " Without exception, they all show the poet's love and praise for rural scenery, and also show the poet's love for working people and praise for farming life.

In He Yuxiang's folk songs, we also read the humorous farming life of local farmers. "Song of Qishan": "The first month is the year, and Xiao Lang went to Qishan; You don't like playing in Qishan, you are no better than cutting Hongshan Mountain ... "The song" Grass, gongs and drums "is full of the joy of combining work and rest:" Er-come early in the morning, get up early in the morning, set up a singing platform, and invite the quartet singer up ... "As for" Two Visiting Sisters "and" Folk Songs ",people in the mountains are also cleverly placed in places where they pursue beautiful love.

Farming culture is a double-edged sword, which can not only create thousands of years of human civilization, but also destroy the modern civilization it created. Fortunately, He Yuxiang realized this and closed his own coal mine that created wealth early, so that the original ecological farm was not damaged too much. They have thrived in Daba Mountain for generations, bathed in the essence of the sun and the moon, drank the rain from mountain springs, lived in huts and bamboo sheds, sang their own songs, and made them work at sunrise and rest at sunset, which gave birth to the unique farming culture here and created the natural pastoral atmosphere of Heyu Town. Old objects preserved in the museum, such as spinning wheel, bellows, stone mill, saw, grain cover, basket, bucket, Mo Dou, iron harrow, plow, wooden nest, etc. It has opened the oldest and most vivid memory of farming culture for us. Think of farmers singing love songs and giving gifts when they are in love; Tears when you get married, receive a bride price and accompany you; Have children, play three dynasties, and drink full moon wine; Repairing houses, planting crops, asking people to help, mowing grass, beating gongs and drums, and asking people to sing; In the rainy and snowy days in winter, we are surrounded by fire pits, warming ourselves, eating soil, beans and fruits, and washing chaff ... The beautiful mountain life, though bitter, is still full of warmth and love, just like a kind of "Xanadu" life. These old objects also remind us of childhood memories and homesickness that is no longer far away. ...

At night, the sun shone brightly for days, and suddenly there was a storm, lightning and thunder, and the downpour poured down. Shan Lan, swaying, instantly wrapped this small mountain village with boundless darkness. I fell asleep in the rain at dusk. In my dream, I saw myself flying high, leaving the crowded and noisy metropolis and living poetically in this quiet and beautiful forest home. ...

Walking into the mysterious Gelao nationality

Gelao nationality is the oldest indigenous nationality in Guizhou Plateau, and the only two Gelao autonomous counties in China are in Zunyi. The population of the Gelao nationality in Zunyi accounts for more than 70% of the total population of the Gelao nationality in China. Its long-standing national folk culture is profound and unique, especially the national and provincial intangible cultural heritages such as "Nuo Opera, Sanyaotai and Gao Tai Lion Dance", which have become the precious national treasures of the true Gelao people.

"The hometown of Gelao nationality, the kingdom of Nuo opera" is well-deserved. In the exhibition room of Daozhen National Museum, those exquisite national costumes, various Nuo masks, clever and unique Nuo opera scenes and complicated Nuo altar ceremonies have long fascinated us, hoping to see the real Nuo opera.

Later, the visit was arranged by Longxing Town Garden Group. The arrangement of the host is very interesting. Let's visit the original Gelao residents first. They are two-story wooden houses with small blue tiles on the roof and simple boards on the walls. The owner of a large house told us that the house he lived in was built in the Qing Dynasty and has a history of 100 years. This is the oldest house here. There is a motorcycle parked in front of this house, and two or three bamboo backpacks are scattered in front of it. Behind the house, bamboo and wood are flourishing and long bean tendons are growing. A shelf of kiwifruit is densely covered with fruits, which are oval and the size of eggs. You can reach out and pick them.

Turning the corner, walking through the sweet-scented osmanthus path and bypassing the green lotus pond, we entered the Garden Group New District, a small building with red tiles and white walls, which was refreshing and lively, and people immediately felt that it was full of rich modern atmosphere. The once ancient ethnic villages are completely new, and the snow-white walls are covered with various modern posters, such as family virtues, harmonious coexistence, and village cadres' promises. All of them are displayed with vivid and dynamic pictures of people, which are vivid, interesting and instructive. What impressed me the most was a "fair and decent" poster: there was a pine, bamboo and plum altar painted green on the wall, engraved with a red letter: pine, bamboo and plum, three friends of cold age; Justice and honesty are the three treasures of official virtue. What's more interesting is that there is a picture next to it that is black. From a distance, it looks like a court official, but from a close look, it is an "inexpensive" word, which is extremely exaggerated and makes people laugh.

"Bang bang bang, bang bang, bang bang, bang bang. In Pingba, a seven-story platform goes straight into the sky. First, two actors dressed as monkey sun and laughing monk appeared. They tried their best to climb, stand upside down and hang in the air. Subsequently, the two lion actors who went on stage climbed up the seven-story platform nimbly, and without any safety measures, they tried their best to perform the thrilling actions such as lions coming out of the mountain, poking their legs left and right, playing with their relatives, jerking their tails, fighting with each other, jumping in groups, holding their heads high, kicking before flying their legs, and visiting from all directions to the extreme, which was amazing.

"Very wonderful, really amazing!" I can't help admiring it.

"Gaotai lion dance originated from religious myths and even fairy tales of ancient dramas that saved mothers. The story tells the story of Mulian, the great disciple of the Buddha, who saved his dead mother from hell. The story persuades people to be kind and filial, and there is even a metaphor of' parents without mistakes in the world'. " I chatted with a local elder. He also told me that these four performers are all authentic performing families. They have been practicing since childhood, and the oldest is over 60 years old.

This can't help but make us marvel and admire!

The subsequent Nuo opera is also in full swing. The mage performed stunts such as "crossing the knife bridge" and "breaking the domain" to exorcise ghosts, welcome gods and ward off evil spirits. Crossing the Knife Bridge is a unique skill of Nuo Opera, mainly for children aged 65,438+02. After crossing the knife bridge, you can pass the customs smoothly and clear the way for your child's future life. A long wooden bench, with 12 sharp knives upside down, flashed with cold light. The mage crossed the knife bridge step by step from the blade with his legs crossed on his head and a gong in his hand, but his bare feet were intact, which surprised the audience.

The "broken domain" of the red brazier is even more mysterious, which also makes us jumpy. I saw the mage chanting a spell, holding the burning brazier in his hand with his bare hands, and then putting it on the ground, but his hands were unscathed. The mage spits a mouthful of water on the red-hot brazier, and the oil fire "whirs" and burns, commonly known as "breathing fire", which means sweeping away all the evil spirits of the dead and wounded wild ghosts and keeping the family healthy. What is even more jaw-dropping is that the mage actually opened his mouth and bit up the red brazier with his teeth, and walked around the venue lightly before putting it down. The most thrilling thing is stepping on the brazier. The mage read a spell and stepped on it barefoot. When he stepped on it, he emitted smoke. It is said that this is a folk ceremony of the town house, mainly to ward off evil spirits, stabilize the house and protect the peace at home.

Nuo, as a ritual to exorcise ghosts and pray for blessings, existed as early as the Spring and Autumn Period. Both The Analects of Confucius and The Rural Party have folk Nuo. Lu Chunqiu Ji Dong has a "big secretary" (palace furniture); In addition, in ancient times, there were soldiers stationed in the frontier with the army. Daozhen Nuo Opera originated from folk "villagers Nuo". The Gelao people who live in Daozhen have lived a secluded paradise for generations. They use this religious song and dance call with primitive witch culture to express their spirit and soul, so as to express their feelings and place their expectations, in order to drive away evil spirits, settle down, have a good weather, and be peaceful and prosperous.

That night, I went back to the hotel, and as soon as I entered the restaurant, a row of girls dressed in bright national costumes were already standing at the door, singing and dancing: guests and friends came from all directions, Gelaoshan added luster and welcomed guests, and three tables were set for the banquet ... The table was filled with all kinds of snacks, rice cakes, zongzi, cakes and sweets.

We know that channel 3 is on the air. Sure enough, Zhou Shixiao, chairman of Daozhen CPPCC, came to the front desk to explain the origin of Sanmaotai: "Sanmaotai originated from the wedding banquet hosted by the Gelao woman's house, and the man came to propose. If the woman's family is very satisfied with the man, they will set up such a table to entertain the future son-in-law. Later, it gradually evolved into a table for entertaining distinguished guests, which is a very high-standard banquet. There are three tables, namely "tea seats", "banquets" and "rice seats", and each table has 12 dishes. After three rounds, you can eat 36 dishes, and the dishes are different. "

Speaking of which, Zhou Shixiao paused. "Please note that at Table 2, the host will propose a toast to the guests. Not if you don't drink. " Zhou Shixiao walked onto the table and said.

Because Zhou Shixiao was sitting next to me, I was very interested in the folk songs just now. We chatted with him while eating. He suddenly turned around. "Songs are more interesting in the works of the Gelao people. I will sing it to you. " He took a sip of tea, cleared his throat and sang:

"What comes out tall and big, and what is tied in the middle? What comes out to fight and what comes out to knock?

Sorghum grows tall and tall, and corn grows in the middle of the waist. Beans come out to cover, sesame seeds come out to bang ... "

Zhou Shixiao's voice is rich and magnetic, and his singing is full of emotion, which won the house applause. Just as he was about to be asked to sing another song, the waitress had served all kinds of delicious food at Table 2. A group of girls filed into the venue with wine glasses in their hands and toasted each guest. Some people are even forced to drink by girls. The scene was extremely lively and joyful. Even a woman writer who never drinks was drunk three times.

This scene is somewhat similar to my drinking experience in Inner Mongolia. I never drink, but in that interview, there was a Mongolian girl and a young man standing next to me. The young man pulled Ma Touqin. The girl holds Hada in her hands, and Hada puts a glass on it. After singing, she bent down and held Hada and the cup above her head. Can you stop drinking? Now, it's a bit like it. What a passionate Gelao people!

That night, I was really drunk. Let's drink to these simple Gelao children and to our increasingly affluent Gelao people!