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Prose appreciation: the breeze and bright moon in tea
The breeze and bright moon in tea

Tea is a culture written by water, which can not only wash the stomach, but also wash the heart.

Whether you are hiding in the city or in the wild, everyone should drink tea. The realm pursued by tea ceremony from beginning to end should be peace of mind. A cup of tea in your hand, regardless of its grade, taste and value, still maintains the inner peace at the moment of drinking. It's still just that cup of tea, nothing else.

If you put your heart and soul into that cup of tea, it will be delicious. Only when you have such a heart every time you drink tea can you enter the "tea way", "tea realm", soul and heart.

A Zen master said: when you pick up the teacup, you should have the joy and expectation of meeting your lover; When you put down your teacup gently, you should be worried when you leave your lover. This is the same as the road of life. Many people are rude after drinking tea. Failure in love is not giving up and lingering, but "breaking all the cups". This has not entered the realm of life, and the realm of life depends on internal choice.

Good tea, like a proverb, is unpretentious and has a long lasting appeal. Drinking tea is to let us see the pure and light nature. Buddhists call "seeing nature as Buddha". If you can't see your own nature, then you are chanting Buddha in your heart, chanting scriptures in your mouth and keeping precepts in your behavior. Although you may be rewarded by virtue and wisdom, you can also grow, but you don't really understand your own nature and the root of life and death, so you don't see the Buddha.

Zen believes that the Buddha is unrecognizable in his own heart and outside. This coincides with the realm of leisurely drinking tea, not saying much, and quietly enjoying natural life.

A person sits quietly, imagining that he is tea that has been baptized by time and diluted by time. He stretched out quietly at the bottom of the cup. After picking, twisting, baking and soaking, half a cup of tea remains, leaving an endless aftertaste for the rest of my life. In the vast years, how short is a person's life? How many people can get a small piece of tea and release the light of life?

True silence comes from the heart. A restless heart, whether secluded in the mountains or hidden in ancient temples, can't be quiet. Your heart, it is better not to be a ostentatious branch, but a silent root, hidden deep in the ground, not bewitched by everything in the world, only pursuing its own simplicity and richness. -in the fragrance of tea, a heart slowly calmed down. The impetuous world is full of red dust, I hope there is a breeze in my heart.

Three Relationships between Tea and Pot

The quality of the pot affects the effect of making tea, mainly in the density. High-density pot tea, the fragrance is clearer; Pots with low density have low fragrance. The density is related to the sintering degree of ceramic tea sets.

When it comes to the relationship between tea and pot quality, if there is no glaze in the pot, the relationship is more obvious, but "gain" and "loss" are from two aspects: First, we use the same pot on the same kind of tea for a long time, and "tea" and "pot" will have complementary effects. The used teapot is more saturated than the tea soup brewed in the new pot. However, the water absorption of the pot should not be too great, otherwise it will suck away the tea soup full of stomach, and Chen Fang will easily have a musty smell after using it. On the other hand, if you use unglazed teapot to brew tea with different flavors, it will have the disadvantage of mutual interference, especially the old pot that has been used for a long time or the pot with high water absorption. Once, in the tea-making examination class in the tea ceremony classroom, a classmate used an unglazed earthenware pot soaked in oolong tea for a long time to brew the examination tea of the day-Bai Hao oolong tea. For the first time, he could hardly drink what kind of tea it was. If you can only brew one pot, but want to brew all kinds of tea, you'd better use a pot with glazed inside, and wash it thoroughly after each use, so as not to leave a taste that interferes with the next kind of tea. Therefore, the standard cups used by tea appraisers to identify all kinds of tea are porcelain with glaze inside and outside.

If the texture of tea set is divided into porcelain, flint and pottery, the impression of porcelain tea set is meticulous and high frequency, which is quite consistent with the feeling of unfermented green tea, heavy fermented white oolong tea and fully fermented black tea. Flint tea sets give people a firm and masculine feeling, which is quite consistent with unfermented yellow tea, micro-fermented white tea, semi-fermented frozen top, Tieguanyin, narcissus and so on. The impression of ceramic tea set is rough and low, which is quite consistent with the feeling of semi-fermented tea and aged Pu 'er tea.

As far as the color of tea set is concerned, the color of tea set includes the color of the material itself and the glaze or pigment decorated on it. White porcelain clay looks bright and delicate, which is quite suitable for matching with green tea, white oolong tea and black tea. In order to keep white, transparent glaze is often used for glazing. The tea set made of yellow mud looks very sweet. It can be matched with yellow tea or white tea. Tea sets made of vermilion or taupe series of flint soil are rich in fragrance and thick, which can be matched with light and medium baked tea such as Tieguanyin and Frozen Top. The tea set made of purple sand or deep clay looks simple and natural, which is quite in tune with the slightly roasted Tieguanyin and Narcissus. If the glaze medicine is coated on the surface of the tea set, the change of glaze color will affect the feeling of the tea set. For example, the celadon of light green series is used to brew green tea and green tea, which feels quite harmonious. There is milky white glaze such as "coagulate fat", which is very suitable for brewing white tea and yellow tea. Blue and white painted tea sets can represent white oolong tea, black tea or smoked and flavored tea. Tea belonging to the genus Frozen Top, Tieguanyin and Narcissus was constructed with glaze materials such as Tiehong, Zijin and Jun Kiln.

Use the glaze color of tea powder, Tianmu and pickles to express black tea. As far as visual effect is concerned, the shape of the tea set should match the tea leaves. Longjing will not be as harmonious as celadon pumpkin if it is soaked in a purple sand pine pot. However, it is delicious to soak Tieguanyin in purple sand pine. But as far as the function of making tea is concerned, the pot shape only appears in three aspects: heat dissipation, convenience and appreciation. The spout is spacious, bowl-shaped and has good heat dissipation effect, which is most suitable for brewing tea with water temperature of 70-80 degrees Celsius. Therefore, covering bowls is often used to brew green tea and fragrant tablets. A pot with a wide spout and a covered bowl are also convenient for putting tea and removing dregs. Many people are used to using a bowl cover as a brewer. A covered bowl or spout is almost like a pot with a covered bowl. After making tea, open the lid, it is easy to see the spread of tea leaves and the color and concentration of tea soup, which is helpful for tea appreciation and tea soup control. In particular, Longjing, "Biluochun", Baihao Yinzhen and other teas pay more attention to appearance. This type of beer is a good expression if it is matched with the right color.

Lang Xianping said tea (2): one side is soil, and the other side is human.

China has a long history of tea, which is the birthplace of tea (probably, the academic community has not yet reached a conclusion) and the origin of top-class tea, which is not unreasonable. Just like the old world countries such as France and the new world countries such as the United States and Australia, good wine producing areas rely on natural conditions, and on this basis, the most suitable wine grapes are cultivated to brew good wine. So is China. If God gave France the best natural environment to grow grapes and brew good wine, then God undoubtedly gave China the best natural environment to grow tea trees and brew good tea.

Tea tree growth requires high soil conditions, ecological environment, rainfall and temperature.

From the temperature point of view, the average monthly temperature of tea tree growing season is above 65438 08 degrees Celsius, the optimum temperature is 20~27 degrees Celsius, and the annual effective accumulated temperature suitable for growth is above 4000 degrees Celsius. Therefore, from a global perspective, tea trees are mainly distributed between 6 and 22 degrees north latitude, and China has a vast territory within this latitude range.

In terms of rainfall and humidity, the suitable rainfall for tea trees is 1000~2000mm per year, the monthly rainfall in the growing season is above 100mm, and the relative humidity is generally 80%. In tropical and subtropical areas of the same latitude in the world, many areas are deserts or grasslands, and the temperature conditions are satisfied, but the water is insufficient. Fortunately, China is significantly influenced by monsoon because of its topography and land and sea location. Therefore, there is abundant precipitation in the hot season in the subtropical region of China, and the climate is warm and humid, so tea trees can grow.

In addition, tea trees also have the characteristics of shade tolerance, like weak light irradiation and diffuse light (blocked by trees or scattered by clouds). That is to say, there should be not only heat and water, but also proper illumination, which is why there is a saying that "high mountains produce good tea"-because high mountains gather all kinds of suitable natural factors: more clouds, large temperature difference, more diffused light, short sunshine time, high humidity and strong tenderness of bud leaves, which is conducive to improving the aroma of tea and having good taste and tenderness (but the higher the mountain, the better).

Tea tree likes gravelly and sandy soil, with loose soil, deep soil layer, good drainage (low groundwater level) and acidic or weakly acidic reaction. Do you know a remarkable geological feature of our country? Ancient red weathering crust was widely distributed. It is red because it is rich in iron and aluminum oxides due to the lack of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, so the soil is acidic.

This problem is complicated, but it is certain that many places in China do have natural environments suitable for the growth of tea trees, which is the premise of making high-end good tea. Take the natural environment of Zhuyeqing, West Lake Longjing and Anxi Tieguanyin as examples.

Bamboo leaf green belongs to the category of green tea, and its origin is located in Emei Mountain, which is the "three wonders in the world". The tea garden is mainly located in Mi Shan, where the elevation of Mount Emei is 800~ 1200. In terms of climate, Mount Emei is famous for its foggy weather, which is full of fog all the year round, with constant rain, and there is a strange climate phenomenon called "Rain Screen in West China" by the world meteorological and climatic circles. At the same time, the geological growth history of 850 million years, coupled with suitable climatic and biological conditions, leads to loose soil, deep soil layer and natural fertility. Emei Mountain is a world natural heritage, far away from modern industrial pollution and radiation. It has a huge ecological chain of plant gene pool composed of more than 5,000 kinds of wild plants, which is rich in species and constitutes a complete, complex and pollution-free Emei ecological circle. It is precisely because of this nature that Emei Mountain has a long history of producing tea, and white bud tea was listed as a tribute in the Tang Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, Baishui Temple in Emei Mountain (now Wannian Temple where Zhuyeqing Tea Garden is located) planted 10,000 tea leaves and collected tribute. Shan Li, a scholar in the Tang Dynasty, recorded in Selected Notes on the History of the Ming Dynasty: "There are many kinds of herbs in Eshan, especially tea, which is different from the world."

Another example is the West Lake Longjing, which ranks first among famous teas in China. Longjing tea area is distributed on Xiushan near West Lake. The tea area is surrounded by lakes and mountains, with mild climate, foggy all year round, abundant rainfall, loose soil structure and fertile quality, so the tea tree has deep roots, lush leaves and evergreen seasons. Tea production in the West Lake Mountain area has a history of thousands of years, and it was very famous in the Tang Dynasty. However, it took nearly a hundred years to form flat Longjing tea. According to legend, when Emperor Qianlong visited Hangzhou, he wrote a poem in Tianzhu, Longjing Tea District, entitled "Watching Tea Picking and Making Songs".

Another example is Anxi county, the origin of Tieguanyin. The branch of Daiyun Mountain extends from zhangping city to Anxi, and the surface inclines from northwest to southeast. The county is mountainous, covering an area of more than 3,000 square kilometers, 80% of which is mountainous, and there are more than 1000 peaks above sea level. The warm sea breeze blows from the east, bringing abundant rainfall to Anxi. Most of the 24 townships in the county belong to the mountainous area of Inner Anxi. The four seasons here are distinct, the temperature difference between day and night is large, the seasonal changes are obvious, and it has the climate characteristics of relatively low temperature, high humidity and fog, which provides superior conditions for the growth of high-quality tea trees. What is even more rare is that although Anxi is offshore, it is far away from Qian Shan and is not disturbed by the sea breeze. In the whole microclimate area, the tea area is shrouded in mist all the year round, with fresh air and no pollution. It smells good. Tieguanyin mostly grows in the mountainous area of Inner Anxi at high altitude, where there are many clouds, diffuse sunlight and strong ultraviolet rays. There are more aromatic substances accumulated in tea, and the leaves are thick, soft and tender The unique geographical conditions and climate environment make Anxi a treasure house of various tea varieties. There are also many treasures of wild tea varieties in this county.

The motherland has great rivers and mountains, and famous teas are all over the country, so I won't go into details here. There is no doubt that quite a few areas in China do have the natural foundation to produce high-end good tea, but this is only a prerequisite. Let's see what China tea people have done.

Lang Xianping said tea (10): an overview of low-end tea

According to statistics, nearly 70% of the post-80s generation don't like tea, and 95% of the post-90s generation don't like tea. But that's probably not Lipton. How many post-80s and post-90s people haven't drunk Lipton's tea drinks? Never used Lipton tea bags? Don't despise Lipton's "tea powder". Unilever (a group owned by Lipton) bought 12% of the world's black tea in 2008, and the world's black tea production accounts for more than 70% of the tea production. If you are a tea merchant in China, you don't want this market? Don't brag about how good China tea is. Of course, we have the best tea in the world, but it's really unreasonable to praise China tea. China produces more than1000000 tons of tea every year, all of which are good teas? Can they all be digested internally? It's really good to stay at home, but is it really bad to go abroad?

Moreover, the safety and quality of low-end tea in China are indeed mixed, which makes tea drinkers worry and the price is foggy. Not everyone has a familiar tea shop where you can buy tea with high cost performance. A market that can only be done by "human feelings" is really too easy to be occupied by standardized and reliable brands in modern times; At the same time, many tea farmers have a very hard life. In order to increase production and sell more money, they sprayed too many pesticides, applied too much chemical fertilizer, cut down local tea trees and planted high-yield tea varieties. All these have led to the decline of tea quality again and the income has not increased significantly. It is necessary to take opportunistic measures to increase income and create a vicious circle; On the other hand, such behavior will also make extremely low-quality tea enter the market, damage the reputation of China tea, worsen consumers' doubts about the quality of China tea, and reduce consumers' desire for tea consumption.

Of course, we also have a lot of people who have always supported China tea, and there are also high cost-effective teas in middle and low-grade teas. However, we have to face the reality that the main body of drinking slow tea is getting older, and it will be the young people in China who don't want to drink or have no time or mind to drink "slow tea". Since we have so many teas that are far better than Lipton's and the prices are acceptable, why not change ourselves and offer them to those who haven't learned to appreciate China tea?

This is no longer the time for low-end tea merchants in China to drag out an ignoble existence and enjoy themselves. Fortunately, we also see that many tea merchants in China are also changing, and they start to introduce teabags with various flavors to stabilize the quality and taste, and carry out publicity (but we must find the right direction and don't always follow the trend of "luxury" and "culture"), but the tactics are still chaotic, and most of them follow the trend and flock, just because we have not found the right direction.

If we want to succeed in the low-end tea market in China, we must put down our airs, transform nature to meet people's various needs, and actively narrow the distance between nature and people.

Tea, wine and women

There is a kind of tea called Que Tongue, which is fragrant and sweet. There is a kind of wine called "Daughter Red", which smells fragrant. Some women are like tea, clear and transparent; Some women are like wine, rich and intoxicating.

There are different kinds of tea and different shades of wine. Scented tea, fresh green tea; Black tea is strong, brick tea is strong. Therefore, although women are like tea, they are all different. Rice wine is mellow and fruit wine is sweet and light; White wine is thick and yellow wine is long. Therefore, although a woman is like wine, there are dry kuns in her cup.

Tea should be drunk early, and wine should be drunk late. Tea Zen is blind and drunk. Therefore, a woman like tea is clear-headed, soft and stubborn. Always insist on releasing themselves only in the clarity of morning tea and the leisure of afternoon tea. Even if this insistence sometimes makes people despair to tears, they are fearless. And women who like wine are smart and meticulous, ambiguous and gentle. I will always turn my expectations and endless thoughts into a cup of wine with appropriate shades. In the fuzzy night, I will get drunk and achieve myself.

Tea should be kept fresh and wine should be cellared. Tea is the leaf of a tree, the tip of the leaf. Born by sucking the essence of heaven and earth, died by sucking the taste of the world. Therefore, a woman like tea, sensitive and delicate, must have the gentlest care and the most meticulous treatment, so that she will not easily lose her color and fragrance. And wine is the fruit of flowers, and the pulp of the fruit overflows. Therefore, a woman like wine, delicate and rich, needs long-term patience and moderate collection space to achieve a faint fragrance.

Tea is only served three times, but wine can taste five flavors. Bitter, sweet, and light. No matter how good the tea is, it is impossible to make it three times. Therefore, a woman like tea is sober and calm, simple and pure. Besides, the wine is full of five flavors. Drink when you are sad, drink when you are happy, and drink when you are mixed. Therefore, women are like wine, charming and fickle, drifting and intoxicated.

Tea is new and good, but wine is old and good. Although "beauty tea is like beauty", there is always a time when a beauty "changes new peaches for old ones". Therefore, a woman who likes tea is lucky enough to meet the best water quality in a limited time, and then release herself at the most suitable temperature, thus becoming a refreshing fragrant tea. And wine needs to go through Tibetan scriptures to be considered good wine. Therefore, the greatest happiness of a woman like wine is that she can ferment herself calmly for a long time, turning her youthful appearance and time into an intoxicating old age.

Tea is raised by water, and wine is brewed by water. If tea is the youth that women can't decide, then wine should be the best destination for women. Time like water nourishes women like tea, and time like water makes women like wine. Therefore, a woman is like tea and wine, even if she has gradually cooled down in her tea-like youth, she will certainly boil slowly in the wine at night.

A piece of tea, a world.

Cha Sheng Lu Yu pays attention to the artistic conception of "harmony between man and nature", and gently cooks tea, which is full of fragrance. When I travel through the tunnel of time and space and taste the fragrance with Cha Sheng, I can always taste the ups and downs of life.

I have been attached to tea for many years, and the biggest gain of tasting tea house is that I can meet many strangers, all of whom are tea customers. Frequent visitors to the teahouse can communicate sincerely with me, become long-term friends and learn a lot every time. As soon as I sat in the teahouse, I was extremely happy. Gradually, people have changed, from impetuous to peaceful.

Celebrities never judge water. Since ancient times, monks like to compete for tea. Sometimes, I also find that tea will roll and float in a limited environment when boiling water rushes down, but I never forget to bring people its rich fragrance, let us remember it with its unique fragrance, and let us find a destination that belongs to our soul in the modern impetuous and noisy society. In that warm fragrance, we will always keep the quietest memory of tea. Among them, the realm is transcendent and refined, and philosophy, ethics and morality are integrated into tea activities, so as to achieve self-cultivation and taste life through tea tasting, thus achieving spiritual enjoyment. This is a pursuit of artistic conception.

Taste the connotation of tea and experience the texture of people. In fact, tasting tea is tasting people. If there is no good tea, there will be some scattered floating on it, blown away gently, sucked into your mouth and chewed in a hurry; To taste its bitterness, to adjust life. Tea is bitter, and people are more bitter. But "fragrant tea" is true, and even bitter tea can smell a "fragrance". This fragrance indicates a colorful life. Or lemon tea, or yuhua tea, or Biluochun, or West Lake Longjing tea, or oolong tea, or Qimen black tea, or Yinzhen Baihao tea. Different teas represent different personalities of each of us. The environment of birth is like the water for making tea. This water may be spring water, well water, river water, mountain snow, and the taste of tea brewed with different kinds of water is different. The modification of the years will also make the taste of tea change more. Blended tea tastes bitter, but it is absolutely mellow. Untouched tea may go bad and lose its taste.

People always return, complex returns to simple, noisy returns to calm. A piece of tea is a world, I found my own world, I am happy! People drink tea, taste tea and taste the philosophy of life from tea. The quality of tea fragrance is the pursuit of people's life.