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400 words after reading tea, Liang Shiqiu's
Thoughts on drinking tea

I'm not good at tasting tea, I don't know tea classics, and I don't know tea ceremony. I've never had the experience of blowing under my arm. But over the past few decades, I have drunk a lot of tea, such as Shuangcuo in Beiping, Daye in Tianjin, Longjing in West Lake, melon chips in Lu 'an, Tuocha in Sichuan, Pu 'er in Yunnan, Junshan tea in Dongting Lake, cliff tea in Wuyishan, and even tea stalks and high-end products full of stars. Tea is the drink of China people, which can quench their thirst, but tea is the best. The word "tea" is similar to tea in shape and sound. Its origin is very old, and it has spread overseas. Where there are people in China, there is tea. No one is equal, no one is equal. Those who went to the top drank famous seeds, drank tea soup at the bottom, and even people served tea by the roadside. Northerners get up early and meet each other on the road and ask, "Have you had tea?" Tea is one of the seven things to open the door, and it is a necessity of life.

When I was a child, I had a big teapot sitting in a cotton-lined rattan box, which was quite warm, so I had to pour my own tea. We use mung bean bowls. The big bowl is a rice bowl and the small bowl is a tea bowl. It is made of mung bean color, rough and durable. Of course, it can't be compared with Song porcelain, Jiangxi porcelain and foreign porcelain, but it has an ancient and simple style. Now this bowl is long gone, and I miss it very much. This kind of bowl is not worth a few pennies, and it won't be slapped on the head. Small bowls with silver plates and white porcelain are used by grandparents, and we don't envy them when we look at them. Look at that small one. You can finish it in two bites. You have to change the tea after soaking it for two or three times. How troublesome it is. It's rare to build bowls now. Unless you visit President Jiang in the Palace Museum, he will always offer a cup of tea in his living room to show his respect for the guests.

Even in TV series, we often see teacups with lids, but it is ridiculous for an actor to drink tea with lids in one hand and bowls in the other, because he doesn't know how to drink teacups with lids. He usually drinks tea by himself, probably with glasses, thermos cups and the like. Most of the bowls we see here now are made in the local "endless" style in recent years, and the porcelain is a little thicker; The cover bowl made in Japan has a slightly different style and always feels a little strange. Recently, someone went back to the mainland to visit my former residence and brought me a porcelain bowl that I used every day more than 30 years ago. There were twelve sets, and this one is the only one left. The edge of the bowl is still a little damaged. I can't help feeling sad when I see this old thing. Bowling is the best tea set after all.

There are many kinds of tea, and many of my friends are from Huizhou. My classmate Tsinghua is a tea-producing resort in Huizhou, but he was surprised when he saw that I put a pinch of tea in a pot to make tea, because all he knew was that the tea was dried, packaged and shipped to Shanghai and Hangzhou along the river for sale, and the remaining tea stems were what the family drank. As northerners say, "Sleeping in a cool garden sells seats". I always drink tea, either scented tea or Longjing tea. I went to Tahiti Donghongji or Xihongji to buy tea many times. One stop in front of the counter, the apprentice moved a stool and sat down, watching the waiter weigh the tea leaves and divide them into several small bags, which can be seen in every corner. This skill can be compared with pharmacy guys. Before selling the tea soaked in jasmine, put a handful of fresh jasmine on the surface, which is called double soaking. So tea shops are often fragrant, gloomy and flying. My father holds a famous jade noble, a flag bearer, is good at drinking, and lives in a constant tone of semi-fragrant tablets and semi-Longjing, which has the aroma of fragrant tablets and the bitterness of Longjing. Everything my family does is applauded. Tea is named after people, but it is called "Yugui", which is a private secret and unknown to outsiders.

Actually, green tea is the most elegant. Before the Anti-Japanese War, when visiting the old man Tang Zhi in Qiuci Temple, the host and guest always had a cup of green tea, which was light, astringent and green. I have visited Xizi Lake many times, never forgetting to taste the local Longjing, and I don't need to climb Nanfeng. There is a good Longjing tea in the autumn moon near Pinghu, which is brewed with fresh water and tastes excellent. A bowl of lotus root starch is beautiful after tea. Put on your coat, it's cool in summer and warm in winter; The blinds meet, and the mountain is behind the mountain. " (Chatting with Luo) A friend came from Lu 'an and made me some melon slices with big green leaves. When I drank them, I smelled the delicious wilderness. One kind of watermelon tea really tastes like watermelon. Once I went to Dongting, rowed under Yueyang Tower and bought a box of Junshan tea. Brewed in boiling water, each piece of tea floats upright like a needle, stretching and sinking for a long time, and tastes delicious.

When I first came to Taiwan Province Province, I was living in poverty. I really wanted to spend all my money on tea and enjoy luxury once in a while. One day, I went to a tea shop and asked for a good bottle of Longjing. The shopkeeper looked me up and down and received eight yuan a catty of tea as a gift. I was not satisfied with the remaining one yuan, but I gave 12 yuan money to others. The shopkeeper was furious and said sharply, "You can't just set the price when you buy something and see the goods." Raise the price, deceive yourself! Why doesn't Mr. Wang check it out? "I like its directness. Now this tea shop is very popular and has become a leader in the industry.

After that, I drink tea, but I don't ask the price for my taste.

The winner of strong tea is congou. "Jia Chao Yue Feng Ji" said that congou tea should be boiled with fine charcoal at the beginning, poured in pots and bowls, and sipped upside down, with rich aroma and clearer than chewing plum blossoms. I have never chewed plum blossoms, but when I lived in Qingdao, I had a friend from Chenghai, Chaozhou. Every time we get together for a drink, we go to the shop of a Chaozhou gangster. There is a secret room behind, smoking utensils and tea sets, and small pots and cups are like toys. More gentle? Children serve to cook tea and burn cigarettes, so they often eat congou, such as Tieguanyin and Dahongpao, and take several boxes home after eating. I don't know if there is such confusion, that is, the distance between the fire and the tea set is seven steps, and the temperature of the boiling water meets the standard. Take a small cup and drink it. The host will be unhappy if he drinks the cup and returns to the plate. You must take the cup to your nose and smell it twice.

This tea has the best hangover relieving effect, such as chewing olives and slightly astringent tongue. After several rounds, it seems that the more you drink, the more thirsty you are. Drinking congou takes time, careful tasting, equipment and service. Who has so much time in today's chaotic society? Where can I find a trace of red in the quiet stove? People who serve tea and soup don't care. Pu 'er tea is dark, and it is said that there are also green people. When it's cooked, it won't slip away in autumn. Cantonese like it. In Beiping, I only watched people eat barbecue in Zhengyang Building, and my mouth was slippery and my stomach swelled, so I called the waiter to make Pu 'er tea. Sichuan Tuocha is not evil, but ordinary teahouses are not up to standard. Taiwan Province's own goal is well-known at home and abroad, and it is mass-produced. The best one is hard to come by. There are advertisements for frozen roofs everywhere. Actually, where are there so many frozen roofs?

Drinking tea, drinking good tea, the past is like smoke. It seems impossible to talk about the art of drinking tea now, so I won't mention it.

Feeling: Life is full of knowledge, even a cup of tea can have a memory or feeling.

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