Many people think surfing is a new sport, but this is not the case. Its history is actually quite old. It originated from the movement of Pacific islands hundreds of years ago. Surfing was a popular sport in the Hawaiian Islands when Captain James Kirk, a famous British navigator and explorer, arrived there on 1788.
1957 or so, the birth of light surfboard makes it flourish. These new surfboards are usually made of foamed plastic and covered with fiberglass and turpentine. Their length is only 2 10 cm-240 cm, and their weight is only 3.6 kg, which is much lighter than the old surfboards. Even women and children fall in love with this sport. American Surfing Association was founded in 196 1, centering on the coasts of Hawaii and California. At present, Australia, Japan, South Africa, Brazil, Peru and Europe are all very popular countries.
Games and skills:
Surfing usually begins with personal surfing training. Personal surfing means that surfers swim away from the coast and wait for big waves. When big waves rush to the coast, they swim sideways to the coast. When swimming to the wave peak, face down, arch your back and put your hands on your legs, so that the waves will wash him to the shore. When the waves disappeared, the surfer slowed down with open hands. This kind of surfing feeling training and balance feeling training is very important in surfboard surfing. A surfer who surfs with a surfboard needs to put his stomach on the surfboard and row to the place where the waves form. When the big waves began to rush to the shore, the surfer struggled to paddle in front of the waves. When the waves began to rush the surfboard to the sea, he quickly stood up, with one foot in front and one foot behind, and changed his body's center of gravity to control the surfboard to cross the waves. A good surfer can move himself and his center of gravity to the front of the surfboard, but most people stand in the middle or behind to control the direction.
Usually, a big wave can wash surfers to the beach. Skilled surfers usually don't rush straight to the shore. They usually travel at an angle to the coastline, that is, they rush sideways to the shore. This can extend the surfing distance, and sometimes they can cross 400 meters at a speed of more than 1000 meters per hour.
I suggest that the average wave height of one meter is the ideal height for surfing. Although less than one meter is ok, the effect is less. On the coast of Hawaii, some waves can even be as high as 8 meters, providing a very challenging surfing environment.
Water surface