The prosperity of "Tang costume" can be regarded as a symbol of the revival of Chinese civilization. However, despite the grand symbolic significance behind it, "Tang suit" itself is actually a rather vague concept. There are many expressions about the connotation of this word in the fashion world, such as "Hanfu" and "Huafu". Many people are puzzled by the term "Tang costume": Is there nothing to wear when China is as big as the Tang Dynasty?
In fact, "Tang costume" is basically a cheongsam in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. The origin of the word "Tang suit" also has the flavor of "export to domestic sales" Foreigners call "China Street" Chinatown, and naturally China people's clothes are called "Tang suit".
The title of "Tang suit" actually originated from overseas. In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, its reputation spread far and wide overseas. Later, overseas countries called China "Tang people". "Ming history? The Biography of Foreign Real Wax said: "People in the Tang Dynasty were called China people by many (foreigners). All overseas countries are definitely. "The Chinese communities in the United States, Southeast Asia and even Europe are therefore called' Chinatown', while overseas Chinese call themselves Tang people precisely because the Tang Dynasty has been a dynasty that China people are proud of since ancient times. It is not only logical to refer to the traditional Chinese clothes worn by the Tang people living in Chinatown as "Tang clothes", but also has become a customary overseas address and an internationally recognized China address. At the beginning of the 20th century, under the social background of "Chinese and western costumes go hand in hand", compatriots in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao used "Tang suit" and "western suit" to distinguish Chinese and western costumes. At the 200 1 Shanghai APEC meeting, China, as the host, invited the leaders of Asia-Pacific economies to wear "Tang suit", which set off a new wave of peaceful and festive "Tang suit". This is not only the integration of tradition and modernity, but also the inevitability of fashion laws, and it is also the embodiment of China's status and demeanor in the international family.
The origin of Tang suit is very close to us, so it is easier to reintegrate into our lives. For example, wearing a coat of Tang suit can be matched with trousers and leather shoes, with a trench coat outside and a high collar inside ... This trait is a practical factor beyond the cultural level of the revival of Tang suit, but it is also indispensable in fashion. It is precisely because of this that the robes and sleeves worn by real people in the Tang Dynasty, even closer to our Ming Dynasty robes, are basically unlikely to return to fashion. Their regression may be through another form, that is, elements.
According to Ms. Yu Ying, the main designer of the Tang suit worn by APEC heads of state, Tang suit should be the general name of China clothing. After they finished designing the clothes, everyone discussed the name of the suit and finally decided to name it "Tang suit". This is mainly because foreign countries call the place where Chinese live "Chinatown", so the clothes worn by "Tang people" should naturally be called "Tang clothes". In addition, some overseas Chinese also call China clothes "Tang suit", so the name of Tang suit is quite international.
In today's situation, what kind of clothes can be called Tang suit? In fact, the Tang suit evolved from the coat of the Qing Dynasty, and its style and structure have four characteristics: one is the open collar at the front center of the coat, the other is the sleeve, that is, there is no seam between the sleeve and the clothes, and the main feature is plane cutting; Third, it is a pair of lapels, or it can be an oblique lapel; The fourth type is the right-angle buckle, that is, the buckle, which consists of two parts: the knot and the buckle. In addition, in terms of fabrics, brocade fabrics are the main ones.
Today's Tang costume is no longer the costume of the Tang Dynasty. Wotou Shahat and T-shirt are the most important clothes for men in Tang Dynasty. Wotou is a kind of black cloth in Baotou. The Tang Dynasty was a time when "writing head" prevailed, and the style of "Shantou" was also full of changes, especially during the more than 100 years from the early years of Tang Wude to Kaiyuan, the shape of "Shantou" experienced several major changes. Men's wear in the Tang Dynasty was mainly round neck robes. Traditional crown clothes are only used occasionally on grand occasions, such as ancestor worship and ancestral halls. Others give priority to "hoeing robe shirts". Robes are widely used, from emperors to officials, and can be worn at ceremonies and banquets, and even used as court clothes. The robes in different periods have different styles. The sleeves of early robes were mostly big sleeves, but big sleeves were not suitable for overseas nationalities. Because of the cold in the north, it is not convenient to use large sleeves, but narrow sleeves that tightly wrap the arms. With the mutual penetration of customs and habits between the north and the south, this tight-fitting and narrow-sleeved robe style was also accepted by the Han people and became the representative of the robe style in the Tang Dynasty.
Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty changed a lot, and women's clothing can be summarized into three types:
1, narrow-sleeved shirt, long skirt;
2. Khufu;
3. Women wear men's clothes.
These three different characteristics of clothing constitute the mainstream of women's clothing in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It is a major feature of the prosperous Tang Dynasty that women wear the clothes of Khufu and men.
Today's Tang suit is a combination of tradition and modernity. It not only absorbs the styles and fabrics with rich cultural charm of traditional clothes, but also absorbs the advantages of three-dimensional tailoring of western-style clothes, making the ancient Tang costume re-enter the fashion stage.
The Tang suit worn now has undergone many improvements. For example, now Hanfu rarely uses sleeves, because sleeves mean that clothes have no shoulders and can't be padded, so the shoulders are not beautiful enough: traditional Hanfu has no waist, and women lack curvy clothes, but now Hanfu has a waist: in the past, the skirt hem was very narrow, so it can only be broken, but now the skirt is enlarged, which is convenient for activities; There is also a cheongsam, which is very high in traditional slit. Although modern people are much more open than in the past, they are still a little awkward to wear, so their openings are much lower.
Nowadays, the fabrics of Tang suit are no longer limited to brocade fabrics, and the genuine Tang suit has been put on the market and is gradually loved by white-collar workers. The combination of leather and Tang suit not only retains the original elegance and rich leisure charm of Tang suit, but also makes Tang suit look crisp with leather fabric and production technology. Chinese Tang suit is endowed with some western characteristics, which makes Tang suit out of the narrow space of etiquette clothes and holiday clothes and can be worn in daily life and work, broadening the wearing occasions of Tang suit. Some successful people from Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan, returnees and foreigners with excellent living conditions are the main consumers of this Tang suit.
Nowadays, "Tang suit" has become a key word that Chinese and foreign people have to mention. Just like facing the enemy of Coca-Cola at the gate, Wahaha played the banner of "very cola, China people's own cola", which aroused the long-term accumulated national feelings of China people. Since the appearance of "Tang suit" by APEC leaders in 20065438+0, Chinese people have started to "wear China people's own clothes". Not only do people in China wear it themselves, but it has also become a fashion label for westerners across the ocean. It is said that on a street in Zhongzhuang, Changle Road, Shanghai, some Americans can often look around and ask anxiously, "Is there anything like what President Bush is wearing?" Some "Tang suit" operators in Beijing proudly said: "Tang suit is not only the national costume of China, but also the world trend driven by the east wind of APEC."
At a time when China's economy is on the rise, the prosperity of "Tang suit" seems to be a symbol of the revival of Chinese civilization. However, despite the grand symbolic significance behind it, "Tang suit" itself is actually a rather vague concept. What is the connotation of this term? There are many expressions in fashion, such as "Hanfu" and "Huafu". Many people are puzzled by the term "Tang costume": Is there nothing to wear when China is as big as the Tang Dynasty?
In fact, "Tang costume" is basically a cheongsam in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. The origin of the word "Tang suit" also has the flavor of "export to domestic sales" Foreigners call "China Street" Chinatown, and naturally China people's clothes are called "Tang suit".
In this way, the origin of Tang suit is close to us, and it is easier to reintegrate into our lives. For example, wearing a coat of Tang suit can be matched with trousers and leather shoes, with a windbreaker outside and a high collar inside ... This trait is a practical factor beyond the cultural level of the revival of Tang suit, but it is also indispensable in fashion. It is precisely because of this that the robes and sleeves worn by real people in the Tang Dynasty, or even those that are closer to ours in the Ming Dynasty, are basically unlikely to return to fashion.