Feeding space

In fact, rabbits are a bit like cats. They are independent, but sometimes they are clingy and afraid of loneliness, so they must take time out to play with them every day. If there is no safe space (such as balcony), you can also keep it in a cage, and the space in the cage should be large (the cage for small dogs can be used, but pay attention to adding a foot pad at the bottom of the cage, with a large gap). You can't stay in the cage all the time. You should be released for more than an hour or two every day. Prepare a feed bowl and kettle in the cage (it is recommended that rabbits use a kettle to prevent stomatitis). Let it grind its teeth with a clean piece of wood with a diameter of 5- 10 cm. You can choose the rabbit toilet, which is easier to clean. In addition, the toilet can be padded with sawdust and hay to reduce the smell of rabbit urine. Remember to clean the rabbit's toilet at least once a day to keep it clean. It is not recommended to use sawdust, which is easy to stick to hair.

Feed feed

Rabbits are herbivores, and their food can be roughly divided into three categories: 1. Concentrated feed (which is what we call rabbit food) 2. Roughage (which is what we call pasture) 3. Juicy feed (that is, what we call vegetables, fruits and some roots). Generally speaking, rabbits like to eat juicy feed, such as lettuce leaves, carrots, parsley and so on. But if you like to eat, you may not eat more, just like children like candy, but all parents will restrict their children from eating candy. Every daily diet has its irreplaceable function. 1. The function of concentrated feed (rabbit food): it mainly provides energy for rabbits every day, including protein, fat, minerals and amino acids. At present, the vast majority of rabbit food belongs to complete food, that is, all the nutrients needed by rabbits are prepared into rabbit food according to a certain proportion, which can theoretically meet the vast majority of nutrients needed by rabbits, but usually the nutritional loss is different due to different production processes. Generally speaking, the actual nutritional composition of rabbit food is different from the nominal value. Rabbits can sometimes eat some meat, but they should be fed less. 2. The role of roughage (forage grass): It mainly provides crude fiber for rabbits every day, followed by protein and amino acids. Forages of different families have different nutritional components and palatability. The palatability of leguminous forage is generally better than that of gramineous forage, and the palatability of fresh forage is generally better than that of green hay. In terms of nutritional value, young forage grass has high nutritional value and low crude fiber content, while mature forage grass has low nutritional value and high crude fiber content. The nutritional value of leaves is high, but the nutritional value of neck is low. Common grasses, such as alfalfa, have higher crude protein content than Timothy grass. 3. The main function of succulent feed (vegetables and fruits) is to provide daily vitamins and water for rabbits. Different vegetables and fruits have different nutritional components, but the vitamin content is generally equal to or higher than that of pasture. The above classification function is not absolute. Except some classifications have unique functions, most of the nutrients in food are yours and mine. And in different age groups, food collocation is not the same. 1. 15-90 days old: At this stage, the development of the digestive organs of rabbits is not perfect, so it is the period when rabbits are most likely to get sick due to food, and it is also the most cautious period for food collocation and supply. The basic purpose should be to adhere to the principle of "rather less than more, rather light than miscellaneous, eat less and eat more meals". 1. Recipe collocation should be: forage >; Rabbit food > vegetables, that is, the recipe is mainly grass, supplemented by rabbit food, and vegetables are not fed for the time being or are fed in small quantities. Juicy feed (vegetables) has a light drainage effect, so rabbits of this age may have diarrhea because of eating vegetables, so they are not fed or fed in small quantities. The palatability of rabbit food is generally better than that of pasture, so excessive feeding of rabbit food will lead to a decrease in the amount of pasture eaten by rabbits, and may also lead to serious consequences such as indigestion, indigestion and diarrhea of rabbits. 2. Forage species should be: Gramineae (ladder grass, etc.). )+Leguminosae (alfalfa, etc. ), and the supply should be Gramineae-unlimited supply, Leguminosae-quantitative supply. The nutritional value of leguminous forage grass is generally higher than that of gramineous forage grass, so excessive feeding may lead to obesity, nutritional diarrhea and increased soft stool in rabbits. 3. Daily supply of each recipe: Gramineae (as you eat)+Leguminosae (65438+ 0 in the daytime and 2-3 in the evening)+rabbit food (40-80g daily, fed 2-3 times a day)+drinking water (80- 120ml). 4. The ratio of day and night meals: 30%-40% during the day and 60%-70% at night. Rabbits are Nocturnal Animals, and the ratio of eating at night and at night accounts for about 70% of the whole day. Therefore, before going to bed every night, you must provide rabbits with enough water and grass, and you must arrange a rabbit food before going to bed. 2.90- 180 days old: at this stage, the digestive organs are basically mature, and the demand for various nutrients is gradually increasing due to the development of the body, so the food mix is also different. 1. Recipe collocation should be: forage >; Rabbit food is higher than vegetables, and the diet is still mainly grass, supplemented by rabbit food, and the daily feeding amount of vegetables is 1 lettuce or half carrot. 2. The forage species should be: Gramineae forage (ladder forage, etc. )+leguminous grasses (alfalfa, etc.). ), the supply of gramineous forage grass should be unlimited, and the supply of leguminous forage grass should be regular and quantitative. 3. Daily supply of each recipe: Gramineae (as you eat)+Leguminosae (2 in the daytime and 3-4 in the evening)+rabbit food (80- 100g daily, fed 2-3 times a day)+vegetables (1 lettuce or half carrot per day)+drinking water (65440). 4. The ratio of day and night meals: 30%-40% during the day and 60%-70% at night. 3. 180 days old -4 years old: At this stage, all the physical indexes of rabbits are stable and all organs are mature, which is the best time to raise rabbits. In this period, the intake and consumption of nutrients and energy should be basically the same, so as not to get fat, so the food mix is different. 1. Recipe collocation should be: forage >; Rabbit food, rabbit food = vegetables, the diet is still mainly grass, supplemented by rabbit food, and the daily feed of vegetables is 1 lettuce or half carrot. 2. The forage species should be: Gramineae forage (ladder forage, etc. )+leguminous grasses (alfalfa, etc.). ), and the supply of gramineous forage and a small amount of leguminous forage should be unlimited, and you can grab one every day or not. 3. Daily supply of each recipe: Gramineae grass (take it as you eat)+Leguminosae grass (65438+ don't eat 0 handful at night)+rabbit food (daily 100g, fed 2-3 times a day)+vegetables (65438+ 0 lettuce or half carrot a day)+drinking water (250-500). The ratio of day and night meals: 30%-40% during the day and 60%-70% at night. 4.4 years old-dying in the west: at this stage, rabbits are gradually transitioning from prime to old age, and various organs of the body are gradually aging and their functions are gradually deteriorating, so there should be some adjustments in diet. 1. The recipe should be: vegetables >; Forage > rabbit food. In this period, the function of digestive organs has gradually weakened and teeth have begun to age, so it is necessary to reduce the content of undigested crude fiber and reduce the burden on the stomach. Vegetables are easy to chew and digest and rich in vitamins. 2. The forage species should be: Gramineae forage (ladder forage, etc. )+leguminous grasses (alfalfa, etc.). ), and the supply of gramineous grass and a small amount of leguminous grass is not limited, and you can grab one every day. 3. Daily supply of each recipe: Gramineae grass (as you eat)+Leguminosae grass (65438+ 0 at night)+rabbit food (80g daily, fed 2-3 times a day)+vegetables (2 lettuce or 1 carrot per day)+drinking water (250-500ml). 4. The ratio of day and night meals: 30%-40% during the day and 60%-70% at night. Because rabbits have completely lost the condition of choosing their own food in the domestic process, their owners must choose and limit their feeding among many foods. 1. Foods that cause tooth decay: Some foods contain too much sugar, or food residues remain on rabbits' teeth, which can easily lead to tooth decay. Therefore, fruits should be fed less as snacks, and some low-sugar fruits, such as bananas, should also be fed less, because they are more likely to remain on teeth. 2. Some foods have low toxicity and should be fed less, such as raw spinach and raw cabbage. 3. Some foods are very dangerous for rabbits, so feeding must be prohibited or restricted, such as foods with high starch and protein content, meat and animal foods. Rabbits eating foods with high starch, high protein and meat will easily lead to excessive starch and nutrients entering the hindgut, which will lead to severe diarrhea such as Clostridium welchii disease, which must be strictly restricted. Especially rice, corn, white flour, potatoes and other foods for human consumption. For the sake of safety, it is best not to feed rabbits any human staple food. 4. Some unknown foods: for example, children's daily snacks, because I don't know if there are any ingredients that rabbits are taboo, so it is best not to feed them. 5. Never set rabbits by feeding hamsters. Appendix: Table of Nutritional Values of Some Common Forages (the following values are averaged according to different planting locations, varieties, harvest periods and modulation methods, and the name is crude protein, crude fiber, crude fat, nitrogen-free extract, alfalfa hay 22% 25% 3% 4 1% ladder forage 8% 32% 2% 52% ryegrass18% 2/kloc) 5% 42% Besides, rabbits love cleanliness. In the cage, it will be more convenient to put it in a fixed place (usually in another corner where the feed is put), and you can use the rabbit toilet. In order to prevent urine odor, you can wear pet diapers or deodorized wood particles. It is suggested to wash at least once a day to keep it clean and hygienic, which is also the premise of rabbit health. You can also make a fixed toilet outside the cage, prepare a cake box, cut it into an L shape (remove the upper part and one side), and put several layers of newspapers. When the rabbit has finished urinating, clean up the dirty newspaper immediately, or it will not be solved in situ. As for how to teach rabbits to fix conveniently outside the cage, it is just like teaching puppies to fix conveniently. In this respect, rabbits are smarter than dogs and can be taught once or twice. Rabbits are too emotional to eat. When it is hungry and finds there is no food in the bowl, it will knock over all the bowls and make a sound to tell you that it is hungry. When it steps on your back foot, you must reflect on yourself. Because the rabbit's hind foot indicates that it is angry or warns its companion of danger. Never underestimate the wisdom of rabbits. When you understand it, you will find that its wisdom is sometimes deeper than human wisdom. The life span of rabbits is about 5- 12 years. Please cherish every time you get along. Rabbit's food: grass hay (enough alfalfa can be given six months ago, but too much alfalfa is easy to flatulence and soft stool. After six months, you can eat hay with slightly higher fiber content, such as Timothy), rabbit food (30G per catty of rabbits), vegetables (slowly introduced after six months, fruits are not recommended) and other things that need to be prepared for raising rabbits: cages (large gap wire should be padded), toilets, ball pots. Rabbits will clean themselves, so if they are not very dirty, they will clean themselves after a while. Individual parts that are too dirty can be washed occasionally. Don't make it too scared. Don't let it drink bath water. Be sure to blow dry with a hair dryer after washing to prevent catching cold. If it's not too dirty, dry cleaning is recommended. However, if it is particularly dirty, or has symptoms of urinary incontinence/diarrhea, or is too fat to clean itself, the owner must help clean it up, otherwise it will easily lead to skin diseases and parasites. In fact, only the Japanese white rabbit thinks that its eyes are red, because after artificial culture and improvement, the pigment disappears and the eyes become transparent, resulting in microvessels visible in the rabbit. The diseases of rabbits themselves are nothing more than diarrhea caused by parasites and diarrhea and colds caused by eating unclean food. ... this is the most common disease. For humans, it is nothing to small animals, but it will kill them. So when buying rabbits, it is best to choose rabbits that are already 3 months old. Don't choose rabbits that are too young. Apart from weak resistance, it will be difficult for the rabbit to survive without the care of its mother. ... so those businessmen really shouldn't take too small rabbits away from their mothers, so that they don't absorb the breast milk they should absorb and eat the feed they shouldn't eat. This is cruel to the little rabbits! ! ! !

fall ill

Once rabbits get sick: First, they have poor appetite and are not easy to observe. You should pay more attention to their every move. When you really find it doesn't eat, it may be quite serious. Second: poor activity, just hide in a corner and shrink there. Other rabbits may be playing or eating, so it won't get involved. Be careful at this time, you may get sick. Third, observe the feces. Rabbit's feces are black and round, so the big rabbit will be bigger. If wet feces are found, it is very important to check each rabbit's ass. Once you have loose bowels, you should see a doctor as soon as possible, and it is best to take stool examination, because you can correctly understand the cause, but it will take nearly 3 days for the examination to have the result and 3 days for the treatment to have the effect. Therefore, saving them is really early detection. If the veterinary shop doesn't open in the middle of the night or on holidays, I'll teach you a way to stabilize their electrolytes first, because diarrhea is bound to dehydrate, and the effect of drinking water alone is not very good. You might as well add some drinks like Baokuangli to isolate the sick rabbit from other rabbits, add a small light bulb to keep warm, and try to feed it. If it doesn't eat, there is another way, just use oatmeal.

Life characteristics

Rabbits have their own fixed life characteristics, lying down during the day and moving at night. It lies in the cage during the day, jumps and runs at night, and keeps eating and drinking. Therefore, to ensure diet and drinking water, it is best to feed it once in the evening and feed it regularly and quantitatively. Secondly, rabbits also suffer from depression, and must be released to play 1-2 hours every day. If you can't be with the rabbit often, you might as well give him some toys to ease his mood and kill boring time. Third, I like dry and hate wet. Rabbits are small animals that like to be dry and are afraid of being wet. Keep it in a dry place and clean it frequently. When the weather is fine, you might as well take it to the balcony to bask in the sun, but not at noon, it will get heatstroke. Don't stay in the sun for too long. It is best to have a shady place to strengthen your bones and muscles. The fourth is timidity and easy to be surprised. Fifth, cold and heat. Rabbits have certain cold tolerance, but they are afraid of heat. Be sure to feed more water in summer and put it in a ventilated place. If you are an unweaned rabbit, if you drink enough breast milk, you can slowly introduce some alfalfa, grass and rabbit food after 20 days. If suckling rabbits don't feed their mother's milk, they can buy kittens instead of milk, feed them once a day, and add a proper amount of lactic acid bacteria. Remember not to overeat, which will lead to bloating and death. In fact, a rabbit in your house only needs to pay attention to regular and quantitative feeding and water feeding. Also note that rabbits get sick easily. Don't give them medicine casually. Many rabbits are allergic to antibiotics, and some cats and dogs can't use them indiscriminately. There is also to maintain hygiene. Don't wash it if it's not particularly dirty. You can usually comb your hair.

Feeding management of squirrels

I. Construction and preparation of farmhouses

Squirrels live alone in the wild, so the environmental conditions provided should enable them to have enough solitary conditions and contact with each other to facilitate reproduction. (1) The paddock is an open three-wall type with three brick walls facing south, with an area of 5 meters long, 3 meters wide and 3 meters high. On the concrete surface, there is a door (1.8m high and 7m wide) leading to the north operation corridor, but there should be a small partition outside the door, about 2m2, and a side door leading to the corridor, mainly to prevent animals from running out directly. Nail several rows of small wooden boxes on three walls of the house, and nail the first row when it is off the ground 1 m. The size of the wooden box is 25 cm long and 25 cm wide, with openings on one side (height 15 cm, width 12 cm) and the spacing between boxes is 30 cm. The distance between rows (the top of the lower row and the bottom of the upper row) is 30 cm, and the two rows of wooden cases can be staggered. You can go all the way to the top. After breeding, it can be adjusted according to the actual situation. In the middle of the room, put a big dead tree or two or three medium dead trees for them to move. (2) The conditions of the sports ground are directly connected with the open enclosure, with an area of 36m long, 3m wide and 3m high. The three sides and the ceiling are made of fine barbed wire, and the mesh is not more than 1.5 cm. Under the net, there are brick walls 20 cm from the ground. Similarly, properly place 1 ~ 2 dead branches and concrete floor.

Second, feeding management and breeding technology

(1) Feed can be pine nuts, hazelnuts, melon seeds, sunflowers, pears, apples, etc. According to the season and different regions, provide as many kinds of feed as possible for them to choose from. Feed can be divided into several places to avoid their competition. Dry ingredients can be added/kloc-0 every 2 ~ 3 days, and fruits can be supplied every day, so it is better to eat them on the same day. There should always be clear water in the washbasin. (2) When it is hot in summer, we can observe the performance of animals. If necessary, add temporary straw mats or bamboo mats to the ceiling of the sports ground to shade the sun and spray water to cool down. There is no need to do heat preservation measures in winter. (3) Key points of breeding technology When introducing animals, we must choose healthy ones for breeding, and the ratio of male to female can be 3 ~ 4: 1. Picking out the weak, especially the weak males, may be attacked by other males. During the breeding period, you can give some animal foods, such as boiled eggs and bread, to see if they like it. In addition, put some clean dead leaves, broken hemp, twigs and so on. Give them something to pad or nest in the circle. Babies born for half a year should be raised separately to avoid excessive density.

Three. Prevention and control of diseases and natural enemies

Because squirrels are artificially raised, the number is small, they are not paid much attention to, and it is not easy to observe, so there is no report of a certain disease. But they belong to rodents and may spread plague on beams, so they must be cleaned every day and disinfected regularly. In addition, pens and sports grounds must guard against wild rats and domestic rats, which will rob feed, hurt squirrels and spread diseases.

Fourth, feeding management.

Squirrels seem to feed on the seeds of FAGACEAE plants, but they also eat quite a lot of insects in nature, so it is best to feed some animal food. Nuts such as walnuts and chestnuts are squirrels' favorite. Biting open the hard shell is not only a squirrel's game, but also helps to wear teeth. It is best to feed this food often. If artificial feed is the staple food, it should be supplemented by apples and other foods. Good feed and scientific management are important conditions to ensure the normal growth and development of squirrels, and also to improve the productivity and variety of squirrels. Pay special attention to the content and quality of protein in the proportion of feed mix. Squirrel feed includes mixed feed, coarse feed and green juicy feed. Generally, the mixed feed consists of barley, wheat, corn, soybean and husk, with the content of barley or wheat 25%, corn 20%, bean cake 15%, soybean 10%, drum skin 20%, fish meal 6%, bone meal 3% and salt 1%. Coarse grains mainly include peanuts, sunflowers and walnuts. Green and juicy feeds include Chinese cabbage, carrots, rape, mulberry leaves and Hollyleaf; You can also feed some fruits and vegetables in summer and autumn, such as cucumbers, tomatoes and watermelons. The daily feed amount of each squirrel is about 30 grams of mixed feed, 200-250 grams of coarse feed and green and juicy feed 150-200 grams. Feed three times a day in the morning, noon and evening, and fix the feeding point every day. For young squirrels, the feeding times should be appropriately increased to ensure that they can eat at any time to meet their energy and nutritional needs for growth and development. In different periods, the nutritional requirements of squirrels for food have different changes. For female squirrels, the feed during pregnancy and lactation should be diversified, the feed should be as fresh as possible, and the nutritional components should be complete, so as to meet the nutritional needs of the fetus or larvae, especially to increase the protein content in the diet. For larvae at different developmental stages, we should also pay attention to the composition of food nutritional structure when feeding. Male squirrels should also strengthen nutrition and increase the supply of fish meal and milk during the breeding period and recovery period; However, it should be noted that if the supply of carbohydrates exceeds that of feeding standard, it will lead to the decline of squirrel's physique and affect its growth and development speed for its young. Squirrels must pay attention to the cleanliness of drinking water, change water frequently in summer, and avoid drinking frozen water in winter to reduce the possibility of poor animal health and infection.

Verb (abbreviation for verb) feeding environment

Squirrels are very lively, especially like to climb trees, and the activity space is relatively three-dimensional. Try to choose a wide and high cage. Because squirrels are used to building nests in trees, the nest box should be installed high in the cage. The nest box can be replaced by a bird's higher nest box in AG. Squirrels move very quickly, so be careful when opening and closing the door to avoid running away. If you run away, grab it suddenly and try to avoid being bitten by a squirrel. Generally speaking, the house for raising squirrels is required to be located in the southeast direction, which is warm in winter and cool in summer, with certain light, which is beneficial to animal health. Animals' houses and cages should conform to their living habits. The house where squirrels are kept can be nailed with wire nails or wooden boards, and the area should be appropriately larger. When feeding in a single cage, the size of the outer movable cage can be 60×25×45 or 55×45×45 double cage, which is used as a mating place for feeding, drinking, moving and breeding. The periphery and top of the outer cage can be woven with iron wire, the mesh size is 4 ~ 3.5 cm, and the cage bottom can be woven with thicker iron wire; The sides and back can also be replaced with glass or iron sheets, and small doors can be installed to facilitate animals to go in and out or clean up, or to put food and water. In addition to the outer cage, there must be a nest box for it to live, rest and calve; The nest box can be made of wooden nails, with the thickness of 1.5 ~ 2.0cm and the length, width and height of 30X25X25 or 45X35X45. The outer cage can be installed together with the nest box; It can also be placed separately to let squirrels in and out freely. Squirrels can also be raised on a large scale. In this case, a larger pet house is needed, which is divided into two parts: a playground and a house where animals rest and sleep. On the playground, we should plant trees or place perches for squirrels to climb and jump. Male and female adult squirrels should be raised separately in non-breeding period. If left for planting, squirrels need special care and can be raised separately. The area of a pet is larger than that of other single cage individuals, so as to ensure that it has enough exercise, the size can be 90X30X45 cm, and the bottom of the cage should be provided with a dung bearing plate, which is convenient for cleaning and disinfection. Each feeding cage should be equipped with a food basin frame and a drinking basin, and fixed well to avoid overturning, soiling or wetting its environment; The food basin can be made of enamel or plastic. Although squirrels live in cold temperate zones. In the mixed area of broad-leaved forest, because of its superb nesting technology, the temperature inside the nest is much higher than that outside the nest. Therefore, in order to ensure its safe overwintering under artificial feeding conditions, it is generally necessary to keep the temperature at 5 ~ 23℃ and not too low, otherwise it will affect its reproductive ability. It's up to you to decide which good question to ask varies from person to person.