Friends who have seen "Evil Does Not Suppress Righteousness" must have a profound influence on the classic dress-cheongsam of tailor Qiao Hong and director Zhu's lover Tang Fengyi in the Republic of China. The following is some basic knowledge about the origin and changing process of cheongsam, a female costume of the Republic of China. Let everyone know more about the women's dress in the Republic of China-cheongsam.
As the traditional dress of women in China and even the world in China, it is also one of the most splendid phenomena and forms in China's long-standing dress culture, and it is known as "the quintessence of the country" and "the national costume of women".
Tang Fengyi's dress fully shows the position of cheongsam among women in China during the Republic of China. Tang Fengyi can be said to be exquisite in all directions, but there is still a girl's heart behind her maturity. At the same time, Tang Fengyi's enchanting posture is in harmony with the cheongsam, and women fully display the beautiful lines of the cheongsam, which fully embodies the unique charm of women.
The tailor's smart red dress represents the clothes of ordinary people and women in the Republic of China. The robes worn by ordinary women and men reflected the implicit beauty of China at that time. Robes surrounded the bodies of most men and women, without the enchanting or split of cheongsam, but in ordinary families at that time, women were almost all of this type of clothing.
In fact, this dress, which originated from the standard bearer's robe, shows the beautiful figure of China women to the world for the first time. Once cheongsam appeared, it became the favorite costume of the Republic of China, from dignitaries to ordinary people, and in the subsequent development, a colorful "cheongsam culture" was derived.
1, developed from cheongsam.
Qipao is not a Hanfu, but a flag bearer's robe. Originally, Manchu men and women could wear cheongsam, but only the robes worn by women in the Eight Banners were related to the later cheongsam.
The robes worn by the Banners in the early Qing Dynasty were rectangular and round neckline in shape, with narrow sleeves, buttons, right cover and obvious contraction in the axils. The lower part of the robe is slit, the hem is very wide, and the robe is long enough to cover the feet. The robe of the flag bearer is cut from top to bottom with a whole piece of material, and the color is relatively plain. In the mid-Qing Dynasty, besides the round neck, the robes of the Banners also had narrow vertical collars. The sleeves of the robes were wider than those of the early Qing Dynasty, and the hem of the robes generally hung down to the ankles.
In the Qing Dynasty, the modeling lines of the Manchu robes are mainly straight lines, without curves, giving people a feeling of being tall and straight. Moreover, the robe is integrated up and down, which makes the lines smoother. The robe can cover the feet, and the women's feet of the Eight Banners are hidden under the robe. Therefore, when women in the Eight Banners put on "flowerpot bottom" high-heeled shoes, the waist line is raised and the lower limbs are elongated, making the wearer look slim. In addition, women in the Eight Banners often wear high "wishful head" and "drooping wings" bun on their heads, which is even more charming.
But after all, there is no curve display in the wide and heavy robes, which still brings a lot of dissatisfaction to many women who love beauty. With the establishment of the Republic of China, clothing has also become a symbol of the innovation of the times. Men's clothing appeared in the Zhongshan suit, and women found the beauty of women's clothing from Manchu robes, abandoned the defects of wide robes and big sleeves, and absorbed the western aesthetic taste, thus giving birth to cheongsam. This new type of clothing boldly embodies the curvy beauty of women's posture.
The popularity of cheongsam began in the early 1920s. In the early stage of popularity, the improved cheongsam changed its wide and straight characteristics, and the Manchu robes with wide and straight waist (no waist) were designed to shrink cuffs to form a waist to fit the female body curve. Secondly, the length of cheongsam is shortened. Manchu people wear robes and often wear flowerpot shoes four or five inches high on their feet. The hem of the robe should cover the sole. Han people wear flat shoes, without high soles, and have a high bun on their heads. So the hem of cheongsam is greatly shortened.
The improved cheongsam can not only highlight the figure curve, but also show the legs of women through the slit, so it is very popular among women. In addition, the 1920s coincided with the rise of the feminist movement, and the concepts of pursuing equality between men and women, setting foot on a haircut, Tian Ru, going to a girls' school, and freedom of marriage began to take root in people's hearts. After leaving home for the society, women compete to wear cheongsam, which makes China people who are used to the banners' robes, Han women's double-breasted shirts and tunics shine at the moment. Soon, women followed suit. They pull a piece of cloth, not necessarily high-grade fabric, or even ordinary fabric. Under the skillful hand of the tailor, they cut out a fitted cheongsam.
However, the appearance of cheongsam has also experienced several stages of development. Zhang Ailing said: "The newly developed cheongsam is rigorous, cold and square, with a Puritan style." At that time, the cheongsam robe was loose, tall and straight, with narrow sleeves and enlarged cuffs, forming an "inverted sleeve" shape.
As early as the beginning of last century, "inverted sleeves" was a popular style of women's wear. Women's jackets have the style of inverted sleeves, and aristocratic women's jackets in the late Qing Dynasty also have the shape of inverted sleeves. The popular "civilized women's dress" among female students in the early years of the Republic of China was also inverted sleeves. Therefore, the original cheongsam also combined the style of inverted sleeves to form the "inverted sleeve" cheongsam.
In the 1920s, in some pictures about Soong Ching Ling, it was recorded that she was wearing various anti-sleeve cheongsam. 192365438+February 2 1, Soong Ching Ling accompanied Sun Yat-sen to give a speech at Lingnan University in Guangzhou. She is wearing a black satin anti-sleeve cheongsam with a plaid scarf around her neck and a flower embroidered on the front and cuffs. 1925 Sun Yat-sen passed away in Beijing on March 2, 2002/kloc-0. During the mourning period, Soong Ching Ling wore a black long-sleeved anti-sleeve cheongsam.
In a photo taken by Soong Ching Ling at 1925, the cheongsam she was wearing was a special kind of anti-sleeve cheongsam. From the edge analysis of cheongsam, cheongsam is exquisite in workmanship and belongs to a masterpiece. However, in the 1930s, cheongsam styles emerged one after another, and it was rare to see the inverted sleeve cheongsam.
At this time, the overall characteristics of cheongsam are small collar, small sleeve and changeable hem, and the core is to pay attention to the waist. Tailor-made according to the different figure of the wearer, which reflects the closeness of cheongsam in the release and folding of the waist. Looking through the photos of that year, we will be surprised to find that cheongsam fits everyone who wears women's clothes, and there is absolutely no feeling of loose uniforms later. The reason is that cheongsam is a personalized dress customized by thousands of people.
2. cheongsam is changeable.
During the Republic of China, women's cheongsam showed changeable characteristics, mainly reflected in the changes of hem length, waist width, neckline style and sleeve length.
Let's talk about the neckline style first. First the low neckline was popular, then the high neckline was popular. Even in the summer heat, the cheongsam as thin as cicada's wings must be accompanied by a stiff collar that can stand out in fashion. Later, the neckline reached the upper jaw and then reached the ear. Then the low collar prevailed, and the lower the collar, the more modern it became. It is also a fashion not to wear a collar at all when it is as low as possible.
The hem of cheongsam is very short. Cover your feet for a long time, sweep the floor at the edge of your clothes when you walk, and slightly above your knees for a short time. In the 1930s, cheongsam was popular with long hem, which was long enough to cover the feet, and was vividly called "sweeping cheongsam".
Long cheongsam is generally equipped with a high collar, which wraps around the neck and partially reaches the chin. Even in hot summer, women wear cheongsam, and they don't change their towering posture. Coupled with high heels, the long cheongsam sets off the slim figure of women. Considering that the cheongsam is close-fitting and inconvenient to move, the cheongsam begins to split, especially the high split just solves the problem of personal mobility inconvenience. Moreover, when a woman walks, the high split faintly reveals her white thighs, giving off a provocative gesture, which is very sexy.
In 1930s, cheongsam became popular. At that time, the so-called big shorts were only knee high. Nevertheless, this kind of cheongsam was attacked by the old school people. However, the cheongsam with bare calves has not disappeared; Later, the cheongsam split to the hips, and the waist became tight and narrow, and the beautiful legs of women were fully displayed. However, after a few years of popularity, it gradually fell back.
As time goes by, the sleeves of cheongsam go from high to low, sometimes longer than the wrist, sometimes shorter than the elbow, and finally become sleeveless.
At that time, the second feature of cheongsam was that it was perfectly combined with western-style clothing and tailored. In addition to splitting on both sides, you can also split back and forth, and the left and right double-breasted cheongsam appeared. At the end of 1930s, there was an improved cheongsam, which used western clothing cutting methods for reference, including chest province and waist province (province, especially the unique design of clothing here). At the same time, shoulder seams and sleeves appeared for the first time, which made the shoulders and armpits fit well. The appearance of the improved cheongsam has made the exquisite and abrupt female beauty a social fashion. In addition, the decorative elements of western-style clothing such as lotus leaf sleeves and split sleeves are also widely used.
This western-style cheongsam can be matched with all kinds of clothes. For example, in winter, you can wear a fur coat on the outside of the cheongsam, and wear fur trimmings on the collar and sleeves of the cheongsam. These were the fashionable ways of dressing at that time.
Yindan Shilin cheongsam is popular all over the country.
With the development of cheongsam, there were two schools of cheongsam making at that time: Beijing cheongsam and Shanghai cheongsam. Because the origin of cheongsam is in Beijing, in the initial stage, the improved cheongsam, which combines the characteristics of Han elements such as standing collar and split sides, is called Beijing-style cheongsam; Later, the cheongsam was changed from plane cutting to three-dimensional cutting, and fashion elements such as waist were added, which was called Shanghai style cheongsam. Shanghai-style cheongsam is slender and fit, which caters to the slim and exquisite figure characteristics of southern women and becomes a fashion of dress, gradually replacing Beijing-style cheongsam.
Of course, the two factions are mainly distinguished by style, not simply by region. That is, the cheongsam in Beijing is either Beijing style cheongsam or Shanghai style cheongsam. Beijing School and Shanghai School represent two styles in art and culture. Shanghai style is characterized by absorbing western art, flexible form and strong commercial atmosphere; The style of Beijing school has the style of official school, which is restrained and concise.
In recent years, some people put forward the concept of "Su-style cheongsam", that is, Jiangsu cheongsam. This is a new concept, mostly commercial speculation's, which is quite different from Beijing style cheongsam and Shanghai style cheongsam in the Republic of China. During the Republic of China, because Nanjing was once the capital, its cheongsam style was widely popular, but Nanjing cheongsam still belonged to Shanghai style in production style, but it was slightly different from Shanghai cheongsam in specific style.
During the Republic of China, cheongsam was the most representative dress for women, and its applicability was very extensive. From aristocratic women to ordinary people, housewives can wear cheongsam. The age span of cheongsam is very large. Girls in their teens and grandmothers in their seventies and eighties can wear cheongsam. Moreover, cheongsam can be worn all year round, and the shape can be single, clip or cotton. There are single cheongsam in summer, cotton cheongsam in winter, and cheongsam in spring and autumn, and other clothes can also be lined. Cotton cheongsam with long sleeves and long hem in autumn and winter is warm, light and fashionable.
Moreover, cheongsam has a wide range of collocation, which is less affected by seasonal factors and can be matched with a variety of clothes. When it is cold, you can add a short vest or sweater outside the cheongsam. In winter, a fur coat is put on the outside of cheongsam, and fur edges are applied at the collar and sleeves. Besides, cheongsam can be perfectly matched with scarves, stockings, necklaces, earrings, watches, purses, high heels and other fashionable things. Because of this, cheongsam became the favorite of women in the Republic of China. They are all beautifully dressed, attracting the attention of the world.