Zhijiang is Yuanzhou. When Qu Zi was demoted to Yuan Xiang, he picked up knowledge on the shore and said, "Yuan Youlan, but Fourth Childe dared not speak. ("Mrs. Xiang") "Zhi is a orchid, rooted in the gap of cliffs or spreading to the branches of pine trees, with long leaves fluttering and flowers hanging in a long string, which is clear and light. Shen Congwen said: "It is estimated that he probably took a boat and went upstream to Yuanzhou, which produces vanilla and fragrant flowers. ..... Without this place, Qu Yuan would be a little crazier. I think his article may not be so beautiful. " Since the famous sentence is moving, later generations simply changed Yuanzhou to Zhijiang.
Zhijiang has a proud predecessor. Zhijiang is known as "the way of Yunnan and Guizhou, the throat of Chu", and it was named Huiyang in the Han Dynasty. In the Five Dynasties, Zhijiang was called Yuanzhou County, which was then the seat of the governor's office of nine provinces. The Qing Dynasty was the seat of the Inspection Department of the Partial Hospital (equivalent to the provincial capital). Later, Yuan Inspection Department moved to Changsha, and later changed to Hunan Inspection Department, which was the beginning of the establishment of Hunan Province. )。 During World War II, it was the largest military base of the Allied Forces in the Far East, the headquarters of the China Army, and the airport of the Second Army in the Far East ... The national government negotiated with the Japanese army to surrender here, which was called "Zhijiang surrender" in history.
Today, Zhijiang is just a small town that people are not familiar with.
When I arrived in Zhangjiajie, I took the train to Huaihua City, and then took the bus for more than an hour, and I arrived at Zhijiang County.
Along the way, the mountain is gentle and always adjacent to the river. The river is not very wide and the water is extremely quiet. Occasionally, fishing boats are concentrated in the middle of the river, and the waterline is not prosperous. This is the water flowing through Zhijiang. A good article doesn't need a good sentence followed by a good sentence, but a stupid sentence that seems to be unworkable, and the good sentence behind it seems to become excellent without much effort. So is the scenery. Suddenly, the world's largest Dongxiang wind and rain bridge appeared on the calm water.
Jinlong Yufeng Bridge is a symbol of Zhijiang. Founded in the 19th year of Wanli (159 1), it was built by monk Kuan Yun. Guan Yunchang said: "The bridge looks like a dragon, and the ferry is Tianjin, hence the name Jinlong Bridge." The so-called wind and rain bridge is the covered bridge. There are rows of covered houses on the bridge, with everything. This is a market. Yufeng Bridge is a landmark building of Dong Village, which can be seen everywhere in Dong Village. Jinlong Bridge is the oldest wind and rain bridge of Dong nationality at present, with a length of more than 250 meters and a width of 12 meters. However, Langwuqiao Pavilion was rebuilt by 1999, and there was not much wind and rain. Although it is newly decorated, it still doesn't need a nail and an iron. The whole system is made of wood, with mortise and tenon embedded, four corners upturned, five tops stacked, and a pointed treasure. This bridge used to be a hub connecting Hunan and Guizhou. Shen Congwen mentioned this bridge in his miscellany Xiangxi:
"The river here suddenly widened a lot, about two-thirds. A long bridge with pier 17 connects the west bank with the famous Wang Jia Street on the west bank by the river outside the city, where there are many residents' shops. Thirty years ago, the big post road to Yunnan and Guizhou passed by (the only way to drive the corpse in legend) ... "
Shen Congwen focuses on "the only way to drive a corpse" here, which makes me curious about this strange custom in Xiangxi. In another article, Shen Congwen wrote: "After Chenzhou (now Yuanling), cinnabar is produced here, and some people will drive away the bodies. If you have good eyesight, you will have a chance to see a group of dead bodies walking on the road. When the car is close, you know to avoid the roadside, just like the living. " I asked the local old people, and what they said was what I heard from adults when I was a child. As for young people, it is unheard of.
We can see some clues from the records of anthropologists and folklorists.
There has been a corpse-driving industry in Xiangxi since ancient times. To learn this industry, you must have two conditions: one is courage, the other is good health, and the other is ugliness. This industry is passed down by teachers, so we must learn from them. After learning, you can walk with a dead body at night through the scribbling of cinnabar. Don't pick a lantern, shake the soul clock in your hand and let Nightcrawler avoid it.
Many scientists are studying this witchcraft phenomenon, and they have different views. However, another way of saying it is that "corpse removal" is actually a private activity of gangs, using this creepy team to hide their illegal activities.
At the northwest end of Jinlong Yufeng Bridge, there is Tianhou Palace. "Tianhou" is the "Mazu" that Fujian people believe in, so it is also called the largest inland Mazu Tempel. Stepping on the 17 steps from the river, the gatehouse surrounded by carved bluestone railings is quite imposing. Gate Square consists of four stone pillars and 95 relief paintings of bluestone. There is a masterpiece "Three Towns in Wuhan" in the relief of bluestone, which is often quoted by picture books. The area of three towns in Wuhan is only 0.2 16 square meters. As we all know, all three towns are in relief. The Yangtze River meets the Hanshui River, with more than 100 ships coming and going. Chatting, playing chess, boating, or drinking on the boat vary in shape. The business of shops is booming, while the Yellow Crane Tower and Guiyuan Temple are hollow and repetitive. ...
Into the gate square, there are female Taoist priests sitting around in the yard watching flowers. Looking back, I suddenly saw a stage on the second floor of the gatehouse at the back of the gate square, which was quite different from the temple. It is not surprising to know that Tianhou Palace was the Fujian Guild Hall. Zhijiang County Records contains: "It was built by Hakka people in Fujian in the 13th year of Qianlong (1748)." There is a couplet on the stage: "nothing is in front of you, watching a play is like watching a play;" When people have to take care of themselves, they will eventually step down when they are in power. " This "looking back" is very appropriate. Looking back at the theater, Tianhou can sit behind her. Cross-criticism holds high the word "the world", revealing a sense of life experience.
The side hall is the Sanqing Hall, the main god of Taoism, with some inscriptions around it.
According to reports, the Zhijiang County Cultural Relics Management Office collected a stone tablet with the inscription: "Tan Yang (now Zhijiang) Deng Qijian wrote an article; Weiyang (now Phoenix) Shen Congwen Shu Dan; Fuyang Shen Yuehuan (Shen Congwen's real name) is the amount. " The time for setting up the monument is "ten years of the people-country 192 1) years old, and I have a heart of February." Textual research shows that it is a calligraphy inscription of Shen Congwen in his youth. This stone tablet has been used as a washboard by local farmers until it was discovered by the cultural relics department and moved into Tianhou Palace.
I didn't find this stone tablet.
Shen Congwen and Zhijiang have a long history. Although Shen Congwen is from Phoenix, he has a fifth uncle who is the director of Zhijiang Police Department. He arranged for Shen Congwen to be a clerk in the police room. The calligraphy of the inscription was written at that time.
Besides his fifth uncle, Shen Congwen also has a relative with the highest reputation in Zhijiang. This is the family of People's Republic of China (PRC)'s Prime Minister Xiong Xiling. At that time, Xiong Xiling had moved to Beijing, located in the Xiong Mansion in Zhijiang-Qingyun Street, and was taken care of by Xiong Xiling's seventh brother Xiong Jie San. Xiong Jie III's wife is Shen Congwen's seventh aunt. Xiong Jie, a member of parliament himself, is the number one figure in Zhijiang. It was in Xiong Mansion that Shen Congwen read a lot of Chinese and foreign novels.
I heard that Shen Congwen was doing well in Zhijiang and had a bright future, so my mother came to Zhijiang with Shen Congwen's nine sisters and rented a house near Xiongfu to live with her son. The income from selling houses was nearly 3,000 silver dollars, all of which were given to Shen Congwen.
At this time, Shen Congwen was 18 years old, and irresistible natural laws made him fall in love with his friend's sister. My friend began to borrow money from Shen Congwen, which seemed very trustworthy. He borrowed money today and will pay it back tomorrow. After numerous loans, Shen Congwen finally found that the money he managed was about 1000 yuan less.
Shen Congwen finally realized that he had suffered a big loss, and 1000 yuan was nothing with his "love". One day he will know. He felt that he would never see anyone again in Zhijiang, so he wrote a letter to his mother. The letter said: "I did something wrong, and my family is sorry for me. I will never see anyone again." I left and will never come back ... "That night, I left Zhijiang quietly without telling my mother and acquaintances, and really never came back.
Shen Congwen said that Xiongfu was "only a short way from Yuanzhou Confucian Temple". I found the Confucian Temple, but there was not a tile in Xiongfu of Sanjin House. The original site is Zhijiang No.1 Kindergarten.
When I entered the Confucius Temple, I saw a weed. The left-leaning hall only demolished the beam frame, and the lattice window of the right-leaning hall was actually brick, and a family lived. Looking in, I saw pots and pans everywhere. There is no statue of King Su in the main hall. Three old carpenters are making new lattice windows with rope ink saws, and the room smells of fresh sawdust. After the main hall, it was occupied by Zhijiang National Middle School. Since it is a school, Confucius will not blame it.
Ask those three old carpenters, is it to rebuild the Confucius Temple? It is said that it will be repaired before September, not to collect tickets, but because Zhijiang will hold an international peace festival to commemorate the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, and many international friends will come to Zhijiang.
These international friends don't know Qu Yuan or Shen Congwen. They just come here to commemorate this unprecedented war.
The next day, the cloud pressure was very low, and the moisture in the cloud penetrated into the cross street in the center of zhijiang city. There is a big signboard on Cross Street, with a portrait of General Chennault, with a line on it: Flying Tigers Exhibition Hall (formerly Zhijiang Airport Control Tower)-700 meters along Chennault Road.
Zhijiang is small. The main street is this cross street, which is called South Street, North Street, East Street and West Street respectively. The road from Dongjie to Zhijiang Airport is named Chennault Road.
I called a three-wheeled convertible "taxi", toot, and the rain fell on the road. This is the connection between heaven and man. When you go to mourn the site of the war, the Day of Dead Soul comes unexpectedly, pulling down the scenery and setting the tone.
As early as before the Anti-Japanese War 1934, the military theorist Jiang Baili predicted: "After the outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War, the Japanese air base should be located in Kunming, and the wartime base camp should be located in Zhijiang." 1937 After the war broke out, the Aviation Committee of the CPC Central Committee called the Hunan Provincial Government to request the construction of a large airport with a square of 1200m in Zhijiang. Later, it was expanded many times and became the second army of the Far East in World War II-the airport.
Zhijiang Airport is also the base camp of Chennault Flying Tigers. In addition to Chennault's air force, there were more than 6,000 American troops stationed here at that time. In other words, there were probably more foreigners walking in the streets of Zhijiang Town with only 8,000 residents, which formed a unique style.
"Lu Qin rushes to weeds, and it is like a flying canopy." It seems that the old battlefield is always deserted and empty. At first glance, the airport of the second largest army in the Far East is not very big. On the solid tarmac (the tarmac didn't use cement at that time, and the runway was only paved with pebbles), wild flowers have grown into pieces, and there are three or two buffaloes in the rain and fog, which are set off by ink and wash, like Li Keran's paintings. At the edge of the airport, the car can't get in. I took an umbrella and walked slowly to the control tower. There are more than a dozen stone mills (some of which were destroyed by bombs) scattered on the edge of the airport. It is said that each stone mill weighs 30 to 40 tons and needs more than 100 laborers to pull it. After the airport was attacked by the Japanese air force, it was immediately filled with soil and crushed, and it could be used the next day.
I saw a pair of young men and women sitting on a stone mill leaning together. The color of the girl's dress was bright red in a gray tone. They are not afraid of rain.
The control tower is just a three-story brick building, which is decorated into the Flying Tigers exhibition hall, mainly including pictures of General Chennault's deeds and the room where he works and lives. There is a brick bungalow near the control tower, which is a club of China-US Air Force Wing. General Chennault and his wife Chen Xiangmei held a reception here. 1994, Ms. Chen Xiangmei came here to pay her respects and was deeply moved when she saw the old things in the ruins of that year. She is very lucky. In the same year, US Secretary of Defense Pailes visited China, and a group of people went to Chongqing and Kunming, the bases of the Flying Tigers, to pay tribute. Unfortunately, those places are in disrepair or occupied, and there is no place to mourn.
I climbed to the top of the tower alone and saw the civil aviation airport that was about to open on the side of the old airport. It was huge and glamorous. For many years, we haven't heard the roar of planes here. At that time, around this open space, the defense of Zhijiang started. In Japanese war history, it was called "Zhijiang Raiders War", while China called it "Xiangxi Battle". Four months later, Japanese military representatives landed here, handed in their swords and announced Japan's surrender.
The defending battle of Zhijiang is the only victory that China has won on the frontal battlefield since 1944.
The intervention of allied air forces in the battlefield in China reversed the air superiority between Japan and China, so in the Japanese "Battle 1 in 1944, seven air bases and more than 30 airports of Chinese and American air forces in Hengyang, Lingling, Baoqing, Guilin, Liuzhou, Danzhu and Nanning were occupied or destroyed by the Japanese. By March 1945, Zhijiang Airport had become the only forward airport of the US Strategic Air Force in China. Tokyo base camp believes that this nail must be pulled out.
The Japanese army put into this battle ***4 and a half divisions, with more than 80,000 people. The Kuomintang troops used the elite group of the Central Army in the Xiangxi campaign-9 armies and 26 normal universities were mostly equipped with American equipment, with a total strength of more than 200,000 people. Regardless of the comparison of the comprehensive strength of the army and the air force, China-the army has taken the lead. Moreover, the terrain of Xiangxi is steep and the mountains are undulating, especially the Xuefeng Mountain Range, which stretches for more than 300 kilometers and runs northeast-southwest and is the first natural barrier of Xiangxi (also known as the Battle of Xuefeng Mountain).
The battle lasted from early April to early June of 1945, and finally the Japanese army was defeated. In the process of counter-offensive, Yang Botao teachers will play all three regiments in hand, leaving no reserves. He also called on Wang, the commander of the Fourth Army, to transfer the divisions to encircle the camp, but Wang only sent one regiment to support him, causing the remnants of the Japanese army to escape more than half. After Ding Ge 195 1 year, the two met in Qincheng prison and still sharply denounced Wang: "You are a sinner in China and a hero in Japan!" Wang smiled and said nothing.
On the third day, I went to Qiliqiao Surrender Memorial Hall in the suburbs. The sky is still gloomy.
This is the original site where Zhijiang surrendered. "The anti-Japanese bonfire began in Lugou, and a paper dropped a book out of Zhijiang", which began in Lugou Bridge and ended in Qili Bridge.
Qili Bridge is far less respectable than Lugou Bridge, but it is only a cement bridge of more than ten meters. But in the past, a stone tablet was erected at the bridge, which was engraved with "hat off" (this stone tablet has moved into the exhibition hall to commemorate the victory of the Anti-Japanese War), because the surrender square is just ahead.
Passing through the Arc de Triomphe against Japan, there stands a four-column and three-arch blood monument square, which symbolizes "an inch of mountains and rivers and an inch of blood". The big book on the front of the square: Surrender Memorial Square, the title of which is "Gu Zhen Li Jin" mentioned by Jiang Zhongzheng, and the inscriptions on both sides of the middle gate are also written by him: "Defeat the enemy and conquer Wan Li, Jia Wei, and the famous city has a long reputation." The side door archway "Bu Zhao Shen Yu" and "Five Virtues Long Photo" were made by Yu Youren and Sun Ke respectively. On both sides of the middle gate at the back of the square is He's inscription: "The famous city falls first, and the true knowledge helps the mulberry to test the sword, and Fuji whips one; The resort is colorful, and the bronze pillars should be remembered for their merits. Ran Yan Xerox is unique. "
The original factory building was built in February 1946, and the "Cultural Revolution-Life" was demolished and restored in August 1985.
On the left side of the surrender square is the former site of the surrender venue, with three black fish-scale double-decker wooden bungalows, forming a rectangle. In the middle is the surrender hall, on the right is the Chinese Army General Command, and on the left is the office of the Army Commander-in-Chief and plenipotentiary of China's surrender. 1On August 23rd, 945, the Japanese surrender ambassador Takeo Imai presented the surrender letter to Lieutenant General Xiao Yisu, the surrender representative of China, and the surrender ceremony was held here.
Takeo Imai flew to Zhijiang on August 2 1 to beg for surrender. He found a machine gun on the boat and threw it into the lake from above Dongting Lake. Looking at the widening ripples, Beowulf Imai recited a poem written by a defeated warrior in heian period:
Suffer from years
The thread is rotten and fragrant.
Dispose of the remaining armor
Rags are hard to hide.
After two days of negotiations, Takeo Imai wrote in his memoir: "Everything we have done these days seems to be played by others in another world. I am just deeply immersed in sadness ..."
But Zhijiang and even China are still immersed in the carnival. After all, the victory of this war is too hard-won. It is really "an inch of mountains and rivers and an inch of blood", with a total of 35 million lives.
But Zhijiang was once forgotten. A local wrote: "When I was very young, I knew there was an abandoned Kuomintang airport in Zhijiang on the other side of Huang Xi Mountain. However, my overall impression of Zhijiang is that there is a "country-people-party airport". Neither the history teacher nor the middle school history textbook mentioned this historic city in a few words. I am a teenager who never tires of tunnel warfare, mine warfare and plain guerrilla warfare. I don't know that there is a Flying Tigers in Zhijiang, a hundred miles away, and of course I don't know that there is an American general Chennault. "
Memories are so heavy that people can't breathe. After leaving the surrender workshop, I sat by the bridge for a while. Looking back, I found that Qili Bridge in this suburb bears Zhijiang's greatest reputation, and the former site of surrender and "mother" are at the bridgehead.
There is a restaurant called "Mom" near the Arc de Triomphe. Its facade is not grand, but it is known as the first duck in the river. In Zhijiang, almost every restaurant will cook Zhijiang duck, but if you want to ask Zhijiang people about eating duck, they will often be pointed at this "mother-in-law", which means mother-in-law, which sounds like "pro-cat". From time to time, some people carry the burden to send ducks, and they all enter their mother's hotel.
I ate at Zhijiang Hotel, and the waiter said that their Zhijiang duck was the best, because their chefs were also very good, even "foreign guests had to eat it".
As I said, foreign guests don't know Qu Yuan and Shen Congwen, and certainly don't know the beauty of Zhijiang duck.
Zhijiang duck is in the form of a dry pot, which is simmered in a casserole filled with charcoal fire. Choose local duck material, weighing about 2 kg. Tender meat, crisp bones and less fat. Cooked braise in soy sauce is easy to taste. Add chives, ginger slices and pepper, and add local spice Cao Zhi to duck meat. The local people are willing to use this kind of grass that Qu Yuan likes to imply that the ducks raised in Zhijiang have a long-standing reputation. If you don't use Zhijiang local duck and Cao Zhi, it is not an authentic Zhijiang duck.
I was admitted to "Mom", and of course I wanted Zhijiang Duck. When the duck comes up, it sees many pickled peppers, pickled peppers and leeks, among which ginger is the most prominent. It is said that a four-catty duck needs two or three ounces of ginger, and a large piece of pork belly is also an important minister. The protagonist is always dragging his feet and letting his followers separate from each other before coming out. The taste of drama is the same as the taste of food.
Just one bite, spicy and wonderful, exciting, and tears came down.
Suddenly feel very grateful. This is an era of peace.