Essay on the Taste of Local Cuisine —— A delicious meal is natural and skillful.
When I visited the West Lake in Hangzhou, the beauty of this paradise on earth was actually very simple. There are rough waves, there are several lotus flowers reflecting the sunshine in the inlet, and there are one or two graceful willows. In fact, Broken Bridge is just a small bridge in Yang Liuan. There is some unmelted snow in winter, so this scenery is called? Broken bridge and snow? ; If it is night, the moon rises on the lake and points on the blue waves, what is it? Three pools printing the moon? . In the west lake, we tasted the famous Hangzhou cuisine? Dongpo meat? . The tour guide said that the method of making Dongpo meat is very simple. Dice the pork, then add the wine and simmer. Dongpo meat is ruddy in color and the soup is rich and mellow. Taste stone's "Before and After the Red Wall Fu", meaningful and fragrant.
Delicious is like beautiful scenery, simple but not simple. Su Dongpo has a poem Ode to Pork, which tells the true meaning of simplicity of Dongpo meat. Washing the pot, no water, no firewood. Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. Huangzhou good pork, the price is as cheap as dirt. If you refuse to eat, the poor can't cook. Get up in the morning and play two bowls, which are full, so don't worry at all. ? Real food is a simplified art, taking the most common dishes and cooking the most delicious taste in the simplest way.
Have you ever tasted the chief Fujian cuisine in Fuzhou? Buddha jumps over the wall? Forgive my clumsy writing, but I can't describe its taste, so I can only choose? Eat like a pig This word. ? Buddha jumps over the wall? There is plenty of food, isn't there? Cook eighteen dishes in one pot? , but the practice is simple. During the dinner, friends talked about two legends of Buddha jumping over the wall. One is a silly daughter-in-law who brought back delicacies from her mother's house. She didn't know how to do it, so she just put them all in Shao's jars. Secondly, a group of beggars cooked the leftovers together. Thus, a delicious food was born between the nose and the tongue coating. There is a poem to prove it: the fragrance of meat floats around, and the Buddha hears that he abandons Zen and jumps over the wall. ?
Have you ever invited friends to visit the immortals, to be immortals, to dream of immortals and to taste them once? Braised mutton? . ? Braised mutton? It's the first course of the Xianyou banquet. It is not an exaggeration to say that it is the chief food and specialty of Xianyou, but it is just like the scenery of Xianyou. Few people know that it was conceived in the inner room, and no one knows her. An unexpected literary friend, very serious. Every once in a while, he will proudly tell me on the phone that he has learned to make? Braised mutton? Yes Then he texted me a recipe: wash the hind leg of sheep and cut it into small pieces. Peel and cut white radish and potatoes. Boil a pot of boiling water. After the water is boiled, put the mutton slices in the pot for 2 minutes and then take them out. Rinse with hot water and drain. Heat oil in the pan, add onion slices, ginger slices, minced garlic, stir-fry until fragrant, add cooked mutton slices, add cooking wine, stir-fry for 3 minutes, and then I smiled. I called Wenyou and laughed at him, saying, is the braised mutton dried by your cooking method radish, ginger or onion? Don't you know that too many condiments destroy our original sense of smell? Our dry braised mutton in Xianyou is back to nature, pure natural, just a sheep, a bucket of boiling water and a pair of skillful hands.
Later, this literary friend came to Xianyou specially. He said that he had come to eat the original braised mutton. The foot goes one way, and the tip of the tongue spreads the other. Food is such a special road that people can't forget to return. The comments left by Wenyou are: fat but not greasy, soft but not rotten, not fishy, crisp and mellow. Wenyou asked me in surprise, is the production method really that simple? I didn't answer directly, but told him a story: when the Japanese invaded in the Ming Dynasty, there was a butcher selling sheep in Longhua town. He quickly put the sheep in a wooden bucket full of boiling soup, covered it with a lid and put some straw outside. The next day I fled home, fished out the sheep and cut them. It's delicious. Later, he did the same and became famous? Braised mutton? . Finally, I said that although the food is light, it has a strong sense of culture.
Friends of literature and art nodded and said, really, as you said, food is an art of simplifying the complex. I said, yes, but food is also an art of time. Like Dongpo meat, it should be stewed slowly and the heat should be sufficient; Another example is dry braised mutton, which takes one night to leave? Braised? . Use water instead of a small fire. Modern diet, like life, pursues fast pace, while haste makes waste. How can we make truly original food? The best condiment for good food is time.
Wenyou said with emotion that sometimes tasting food is also a taste of life.
Local food tasting essay II Uncle McDonald's, a western-style fast food, has only a history of more than 60 years, while KFC has only a history of two or three years. Peng Zu, the oldest in China legend, lived 800 years, and Xinghua rice noodle 1000 years old. As one of the earliest fast food in China, Xinghua rice noodle is better than? Xinghua? This ancient place name goes further and has footprints all over the world.
When we were young, we all sang a riddle nursery rhyme:? Four corners, four corners, straw tied to the waist, the answer is Xinghua rice noodles. The prepared rice noodles were spread into square blocks. In order to prevent them from scattering, the villagers tied the rice noodles in the middle with straw, which looked like an old farmer in the countryside. Rural rice noodles, with the image of grassroots civilians, live among the civilians and become a kind of food in their daily lives.
Eight years ago, I wrote an article "Xinghua Rice Noodle", which introduced its origin. Now let me sum up: In the Northern Song Dynasty, Li Fan, the chief bookkeeper of Xinghua Army, whose ancestral home was in Guangdong, assisted Qian Siniang in building the Mulan Monument. Mom is tired of eating rice noodles in her hometown. Li Fan hired a master to process rice noodles. Later, he made the method of making rice noodles public, so that the migrant workers of Jane Mulan skin and the people of Xinghua army could also eat this simple food. From the main information revealed by this legend, we can know that Xinghua rice noodle originated in Guangdong, but it was localized. Now Xinghua rice noodles are as white as snow and as thin as silk. Xinghua rice flour embodies the feelings of filial piety, affection and saving the world. Food is not only a feast on the tip of the tongue, but also full of feelings, which many gluttons don't understand.
Xinghua rice noodle is one of the top ten city business cards in Putian. It has good quality, delicious taste, storage resistance, portability, toughness and unique local flavor. Rice noodles produced in Xian Yi and Xihong are very popular all over the world. There are many places now? Fried Xinghua rice noodles? I have eaten in a restaurant in Fuzhou, and the production method and taste are very different from those of Puxian folk. ? Xinghua fried rice noodles? It is the authentic and authentic way to eat Xinghua rice noodles, and this way of eating has been around for a long time since the Northern Song Dynasty. Zhu, a cultural master of the Song Dynasty, came to Putian to give lectures. Has he tasted it? Xinghua fried rice noodles? I can't help clapping my hands and saying: delicious, delicious! ? Zhu thinks it's because of Puxian cuisine? Bite your tongue? That kind of joy and humor is enough to make me feel relieved every time I think about it.
In Pu Xian Village, every household has rice noodles in their rice jars. When I was a child, I was hungry and couldn't wait for the porridge to be cooked. My mother will take a small piece of rice noodles, add boiling rice soup, stew for a few minutes, add a little soy sauce and peanut oil. This is the fast food we ate when we were children. On holidays, tofu will be made at home, and mother will use soybean milk? Is it hot? Give us rice noodles to eat. Once, my mother made us fried rice noodles with soybean milk. First put the rice noodles in soybean milk (pronounced cuān, cooking method, put the food in boiling water and cook it a little. ), fry the bean sprouts in oil, then add the rice flour and shredded mustard, stir well, mix with onion oil, and sprinkle with some fried peanuts. Guo Feng, a famous writer, was still infatuated with soybean milk and rice noodles in his later years, and wrote an essay specially. The taste of Xinghua rice noodles seems to be able to pass through the dust of the years and stay on his tongue and heart.
I ate more fried rice noodles with amaranth when I was a child. At that time, the countryside was poor, and mustard and amaranth were the most planted, with high yield and long edible period, which could satisfy the hunger. In this way, we accidentally ate a lot? Gourmet? . The juice of amaranth is red, as if it exists to match fried rice noodles. The fried food seems to be dyed red and looks good. Rice flour is soft and glutinous, amaranth is juicy and chewy, and the two simplest foods are just right together. I ate this long-lost dish in a restaurant in Haiting Jiayuan a few years ago, and even ate several bowls.
There is another kind of immortal? Onion rice noodles? Is to add fried onions, ginger slices and lobster sauce to rice noodles? Triple soup? It is said that it is a folk treatment for colds and colds, and Xinghua rice flour has become a health food. After reading Guo Feng's essay collection Notes on Shame Zhai, I found that July 30 is a special custom for Puxian people to celebrate Pudu Festival. Begging? Tofu cabbage, Xinghua rice noodles at home, etc. , is arranged in the field, and burn incense to worship the bodhisattva in Tibet. That night, all the families cooked Chinese cabbage, tofu and Xinghua rice noodles for the Buddha, and each person had a bowl for dinner.
During the Mid-Autumn Festival, do all households eat? Fried rice noodles with taro? . Before the Mid-Autumn Festival, the married daughter will go back to her parents' home? Send autumn? One of the essential gifts is Xinghua rice noodles; During the Mid-Autumn Festival, every household? Do autumn? Fried rice noodles with taro is an essential dish. Peel taro (usually areca taro), cut into pieces, fry in oil, add shredded pork, mushrooms and chestnuts, and stew in water for 20 to 30 minutes. After the taro is cooked, add rice noodles and stir fry together, and a special food of Puxian is ready. I once asked a folk expert, and the expert said: rice flour is white, and eating rice flour means eating until the beard turns white, which means eating it will lead to longevity; In Puxian dialect, taro? With what? Endure? Homophonic, meaning to eat fried rice noodles with taro? Get through it? Just arrived? Boss? I hope life will turn for the better. The customs behind hometown dishes are really intriguing, with both good wishes and profound philosophy of life. No matter how hard life is. Get through it? Just arrived? Boss? After all, the philosophy of fried rice noodles with taro is better than many words.
In the era of food shortage, rice noodles are delicious, no matter which method is used. At that time, children were greedy, watching others eat rice noodles, their noses were full of fragrance, and their tongues were spitting. Seeing the water vapor on the bowl gently floating into the sky, the children couldn't help shouting: (rice noodles) roll! ? Get out? In the local dialect? Is it hot? . Therefore, a local proverb is derived:? Others eat rice noodles, you shout get out! ? It means that my business has nothing to do with you, but you are blindly involved and enjoy it. We did this when we were children.
At that time, many people in rural areas were hungry, full and full, and more or less had stomach problems. My father suffered from it before, and he got indigestion after eating rice noodles. When cooking rice noodles at home, he can only watch us wolf down. Later, my life got better and my stomach trouble improved a lot, but I never dared to eat rice noodles again. This is one of the many regrets left by rural life. This is beside the point.
Xinghua rice noodles contain sincere wishes. In some festivals in Puxian, such as the winter solstice and the Spring Festival, a plate of Xinghua fried rice noodles is usually prepared. The most common fried rice noodles are pork, chicken, eggs, mushrooms, shrimp, winter bamboo shoots, onions, leeks, kale and other condiments. The production method can be Baidu, so I won't go into details here. One year, Putian city took a couplet about rice noodles on the Chinese test paper of the senior high school entrance examination, which is still fresh in its memory. The first part is Xinghua fried rice noodles, which has been famous for thousands of years, and the second part is Putian stewed tofu, which is famous all over the world. If I had to add a horizontal batch, I would choose four words: cook life.
Essays on Local Cuisine Tasting Three Braised Fish is a favorite breakfast dish for most people in Bailitan.
The traditional skill of killing fish is too rigid and conservative. Just as a woman with little feet in the late Qing Dynasty was reluctant to throw away the smelly and long foot-binding cloth and put on breathable and sexy black stockings, she was as conservative.
Emphasize traditional bad habits. For example, no scales, no fish guts. It is acceptable not to scale, just like when you first came out of the ceremony, you only had branches and grass leaves around you, and you can also wipe them. If you don't gut the fish, it's equivalent to lifting your pants without a branch blade, which is unacceptable.
Some people stick to the traditional method of wrapping fish, instead of eviscerating the fish, wrap a pot of stickleback. Who would have thought that the stickleback fish ate a lot of Grimer, but there was no fishy smell after opening the lid, and it rose completely, and it was the smell after opening the manhole cover.
Traditionally, it is emphasized that mustard brine must be used. Good idea, old mustard, and Chinese medicine. Fish marinated with good mustard is the best seasoning for marinating fish. The fish is hard and chewy, with mustard flavor in the aftertaste.
The old people in Bailitan basically live in bungalows, and there are several big jars and pickle jars in each yard. Dry shrimp sauce in the jar and pickle in the jar. Marinate mustard with sea salt. After the bittern does not pass through the mustard on the top floor, it must be fully basked in the sun in summer, so that the bittern can absorb the scorching sun, and the mustard brine begins to turn golden yellow, and the aroma of the mustard is dissolved in the brine. When you pickle fish with this mustard, you put it in a bowl and a half. The fish is hard and tastes like carrots. However, with the disappearance of bungalows, pickle jars are very scarce. There are mustard greens on the market, bottled in mineral water. They are turbid as urine, and their taste is basically salty but not fragrant. The effect of this mustard can be imagined.
Bailitan people can't live without stewed fish and can't eat good mustard. What can we do? We can only improve it. We can only keep pace with the times, follow the shore and drift with the tide.
First of all, the improved version of the fish requires that the intestines of the fish must be removed, and if it is a barracuda, the black membrane in the stomach must be wiped. If you are diligent, you should scrape the scales clean. Some people say that fish scales are rich in trace elements, so it is a pity to remove them. We are now overnourished for three meals a day, but we still lack nutrition on fish scales.
Pickle brine can be replaced by shrimp oil, and the effect is better.
If there is no mustard shrimp oil, you can refer to the following methods:
The first step is to boil the salt water.
First put water in the pot (it is recommended to put water purified by water purifier), then add a lot of cooking wine, a little vinegar and a lot of soy sauce (mainly soy sauce). You can use soy sauce to color), tomato sauce (also used to color, just a little bit), oyster sauce, a little white sugar to refresh yourself (if you have diabetes, you can not put white sugar), pepper, aniseed, onion, ginger, garlic and sea salt. How much sea salt to put depends entirely on the taste. If the mullet is hard and chewy, put more.
The second step is to make a system.
Boil a pot full of brine soup, take out a pot for later use, and put the cleaned barracuda into the pot in an orderly way. Stew on high fire for 10 minute, and then turn to slow fire for about two hours. In this glug process, the marinated soup just scooped out is put into the pot.
The third step is to pour the soup.
Glug for nearly two hours, and there is still half a pot of fish soup in the fish pot. Cover the pot and start pouring the soup. Remember, fish soup must be poured to the end, not dried. Fish soup is sticky and has the best effect.
The fourth step is to get out of the pot.
Be sure to cool the fish thoroughly before cooking. The rotten fish at night is best cooked the next morning. Salted fish will become hard and hard after thorough air cooling, and will not break when they are out of the pot. When loading, the hue is the best.
It needs to be repeatedly emphasized that if the pickling process is short, the fishbone will not be tender easily, and the fish will not be easy to taste. If you put less soy sauce, the fish will lack the sauce flavor. If you put less cooking wine, after cooling, the spoiled fish will easily return to fishy smell.
There is no definite way to spoil a fish. People's tastes are different, just slightly increase or decrease the ingredients. If fish are too dogmatic, they will stick to the rules. Everyone claims to be authentic when arguing about a certain detail of fish, that is, two children will argue with each other.
No matter how high the level of fish is, it is not a good fish, nor is it a bad fish.
Essay on the Taste of Local Cuisine In the winter of 20xx, more than 20 famous writers from the province came to Xianyou for sightseeing. Every day, they enjoy the beautiful scenery of the places visited by the immortals, as well as the local snacks. Xianyou has a long history and enjoys it. Daphne (water dragon) is like a dragon ball swimming in clear soup, and its sleeves are like a reciprocating movement, lingering on the tongue coating?
The observant writer noticed that the first dish of every meal was braised mutton and asked me a little surprised. I said, this is a feature of Xianyou banquet, and hospitable people bring out the best dishes for guests to taste. In Xianyou folk, the best dish is not abalone and lobster, but braised mutton. The writer was a little surprised. I briefly introduced its practice, such as selecting goats and stewing them in an urn for a whole day. The writers suddenly realized and nodded.
An old writer asked doubtfully, if mutton is stewed in a clay pot, what should it be called? Braised mutton in a jar? Ah. I replied: actually, both names are ok. Call? Cylinder stew? , focusing on the instruments used in production; Call? Dry stew? , emphasizing the production process. Good dry braised mutton, the pursuit of authenticity, almost no ingredients, except salt, other condiments are rarely used. Pure dry goods, the most capable cooking technology, bring diners the purest taste bud experience, which is? Fuck? Original intention.
A Xianyou writer at the same table introduced the history of braised mutton. First of all, the Japanese invaders attacked. A family in Longhua Town slaughtered goats and hurriedly put them into a bucket full of boiling soup. The next day, they fled home and stewed sheep became delicious. It seems that this dish is also a must Another way of saying it is similar, but the character is changed to Wang Chen of Nankang County in the East China Sea. For most delicious foods, people like to visit relatives with celebrities, and dry stewed mutton is not uncommon. But most Yi people still agree that food is the most important thing for the people. The author said that Cai Jing used it to entertain Song Huizong in the Northern Song Dynasty. The emperor ate his teeth and cheeks, and the braised mutton jerky could be hyped with royal dishes or royal food. The dry braised mutton in Xianyou clinks, but stubbornly retains its own folk color.
The writers present applauded the low-key of this kind of food. A writer in the province said that coarse clothes do not hide national colors, and the more folk food, the simpler it is, the more authentic it is, and the closer it is to the true meaning of food. The writer felt a little sorry. Some people say that if Xianyou's braised mutton can also be commercially packaged and mass-produced, it may have been famous both inside and outside the province, unlike now? Growing up in a secret room, no one knew her? . However, the author says that if this happens, the homesickness on our tongues will disappear.
An old writer has been enjoying the pleasure of gluttony, and suddenly interjected: I finally understand, why stew? Braised? Which is in the middle of the right? Heart? Do you have to use this dish? Heart? .
On reflection, the writers nodded.
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