What is the function of peptide skin care products? Many people are not very clear about the efficacy and function of this substance. Many people know it will appear in skin care products and cosmetics. It is said to be good for the skin. Below I will take you to have a brief understanding of the role of peptide skin care products.
What is the function of peptide skin care products?
Peptide is a compound formed by connecting α -amino acids through peptide bonds, and it is also an intermediate product of protein hydrolysis.
Oligopeptide (small molecular peptide, or peptide)
Peptides consisting of 2-9 amino acids are called oligopeptides (small molecular peptides or peptides).
Generally speaking, "small peptides or peptides" contain between 2 and 9 amino acids. According to the number of amino acids in peptides, peptides have many different names: the compound formed by dehydration and condensation of two amino acid molecules is called dipeptide, and so on, as well as tripeptide, tetrapeptide and pentapeptide. , all the way to nine peptides.
Polypeptide (peptide for short)
Usually, the compound formed by dehydration and condensation of 10- 100 amino acid molecule is called polypeptide. Their molecular weight is lower than 10000D(Dlton, Dalton), and they can penetrate through the semi-permeable membrane without being precipitated by trichloroacetic acid and ammonium sulfate.
In many literatures, small molecular peptides and polypeptides are generally referred to as polypeptides.
Classification of "peptides" in skin care products
Neuroinhibitory polypeptide
The main representative peptides: acetyl hexapeptide -8 and snake venom-like peptide (tripeptide) belong to instant wrinkle removal.
Neuroinhibitors, the main mechanism of action is to isolate, block or inhibit a certain process of nerve signal transmission during muscle movement (different peptide inhibition sites are different, which is related to their targeting). Peptide nerve inhibitors are effective for wrinkles caused by neuromuscular cell movement because of their small molecular weight, and have basically no side effects.
Among them, acetyl hexapeptide -8 is the most widely used at present, but in an immediate sense, snake venom-like peptide is more significant.
Polypeptide for promoting collagen synthesis
The main representative peptides are palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl pentapeptide -4, which belong to polypeptides that can promote the synthesis of human collagen.
This kind of polypeptide is mainly aimed at wrinkles caused by collagen loss caused by human aging. Because there are many kinds of' peptides' that promote collagen synthesis (I, III and IV have great effects on the skin), different kinds of peptides can be used according to the needs of different customers.
Repair polypeptide
The main representative peptide: tripeptide-1, copper.
Tripeptide-1, copper is one of the few peptides in human blood. Copper peptide has a strong effect on new scars and wound healing, which can effectively promote the degradation of a large number of collagen aggregates outside scars and make skin wounds form normal collagen. Copper peptide is the earliest polypeptide invented by people, but it is not widely used in skin care products system at present, and it is widely used in the field of freeze-dried powder. (Tripeptide-1 copper, i.e. GHK copper, is the most widely used in the market).
Whitening polypeptide
The main representative polypeptides are: nonapeptide-1, hexapeptide -2 and carnosine.
Among them, the action mechanism of nonapeptide-1 and hexapeptide -2 is similar to that of traditional whitening agents, and the whitening effect is achieved by inhibiting or inactivating arginase (most peptide whitening is achieved by inhibiting a certain site in the process of melanin production).
However, carnosine is different from other whitening mechanisms (not by stripping or inhibiting melanin production sites). It has strong anti-oxidation ability, can remove some oxygen free radicals and unsaturated free radicals in human body, has strong yellowing effect, can brighten skin color and achieve the purpose of whitening.
Polypeptide for promoting hair growth
The main representative peptides are: nutmeg pentapeptide-17, biotin tripeptide-1.
Hair growth peptide should be paid attention to, and the hair follicle should not be necrotic and be in the growth cycle. Among them, nutmeg pentapeptide-17 is a polypeptide that promotes eyelash growth. If the eyelashes are in the stage of degeneration, the effect will not be achieved at all. Hair is different from eyelashes. The growth cycle of eyelashes is one or two months, while the growth cycle of hair can last for many years. Biotin tripeptide-1 is effective as long as it is used continuously.
Application of peptide in skin care products
For the application of peptides in skin care products, peptides are easily absorbed by human body because of their small molecular weight. But in the skin care system, we need a more correct way to use it, so as not to make it too expensive but ineffective.
Usually:
Water > Essence > Cream
The main reason is that there are few polymer film-forming agents in the water-based system, while in the essence system, engineers often consider factors such as moisturizing and smearing feeling when formulating the formula, and more or less polymer film-forming agents will be added, while in the cream system, there are more grease components, which will isolate the active substances.
Considering these factors, carbomer and xanthan gum are usually used for thickening (xanthan gum will react with a small amount of peptides). The simpler the system, the stronger the effect that peptides can achieve.
What is the function of peptide skin care products? Peptides play an important role in the growth, development and metabolism of organisms. In the process of skin natural aging and nursing, small molecular active peptides play an important role, such as cell migration, reproduction, inflammation, angiogenesis, pigment formation and protein synthesis regulation. With the further understanding of the structure and mechanism of human skin, small molecular peptides with various structures have been introduced into skin care, achieving the purpose of promoting collagen synthesis, anti-free radicals and anti-oxidation.
In the mid-1980s, cosmetics containing natural collagen were all the rage. However, due to the unique physiological and chemical barrier characteristics of human skin, especially the stratum corneum, it is difficult for the active components of these high molecular weight macromolecules to penetrate the epidermis and go deep into the basal layer to play a further role. After that, protein fragment was introduced, and protein was decomposed into peptides by hydrolysis and enzymatic fermentation, which was also the earliest peptide used in cosmetics. Although it has been able to enter the basal layer through the epidermis, at the same time, the macromolecular structural groups are decomposed into small molecular structural groups, which are easy to absorb, but at this time, small molecular peptides can not completely choose their own fragments and peptide sequences, and the components are not simple, so they are mostly used for general moisturizing and repair, so this kind of peptide or polypeptide mixture is not a beauty peptide in a strict sense.
In a real sense, beauty peptides appeared in the late 1990s, and they need to have the following characteristics at the same time:
1, specific amino acid sequence and molecular weight structure, common condensate of 2- 10 amino acid, namely oligopeptide commonly used in the market. The molecular weight is about 1000 dalton.
2. The mechanism is clear, and it has a certain effect on a micro receptor of the skin. For example, small molecular sheep placenta has anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects.
3, the purification effect is concentrated and the content is high.
The main functions of peptides in cosmetics are:
A: promoting cell metabolism; It can promote and maintain the normal metabolism of cells, thus promoting the regeneration of skin cells and making the skin look brand-new.
B: activate cell activity; Peptide can effectively remove free radicals harmful to human body by activating cell activity, reduce the accumulation of pigmentation, make skin white and translucent, and achieve the purpose of delaying aging.
C: inhibiting cell degeneration; Peptide can effectively inhibit cell degeneration and enhance human immunity, thus reducing the loss of collagen and improving skin relaxation. Enhance the ability of skin cells to lock water and moisturize.
D. repair damaged cells; Peptide can repair damaged skin cells, improve the metabolic capacity of cells, thus reducing skin oxidation and weakening skin wrinkles. Achieve the effect of restoring youth and reversing age.
E: Peptides are organic substances that constitute various connective tissues, which can help the rapid synthesis of elastin and collagen.
F: Peptides can prevent the formation of skin wrinkles. Peptides can accelerate collagen to be fully absorbed by the skin after penetrating into the surface layer of the skin, play the role of a natural moisturizing factor, and are filled between the skin substrates, so that the skin can increase tension and keep smooth, full and elastic.
G: Peptide can pave the way for the migration and proliferation of epidermal cells, provide good nutrition, promote the growth of skin and nerves, promote the proliferation and repair of epithelial cells, and thus promote the healing of wounds.
According to the investigation and analysis, in 20 1 1 year, the sales of polypeptide skin care products abroad reached1600 million, with an annual growth rate of 30%-40%. So far, many countries have successively launched polypeptide cosmetics, such as Olay, Avon, Estee Lauder, Lancome, L 'Oreal, Chanel, Dior and SK-2.
Because cosmetic peptides involve many disciplines such as molecular biology, biochemistry, genetic science, dermatology, cosmetics and so on, it needs long-term, basic and microscopic in-depth research, and at the same time, it needs to establish a perfect and accurate evaluation system. Driven by the market, the domestic cosmetic peptide market has great market potential, which will certainly promote the further development and perfection of cosmetic peptides. Bring more breakthroughs to the beauty field and benefit a wider range of consumers.