"The Apocalypse Palace Ci" said: "Sea mirrors, rivers, flowers and plants, five marquis mackerel covered with yellow sarong, a private meeting held in the harem, and bone guides often learn to cook." According to the author Jiang's self-report, Emperor Xizong likes to use more than ten kinds of seafood, such as grilled clams, fresh shrimps, pickles and shark wings, to make a "first-class nest" to eat. Compendium of Materia Medica talks about shark fins, but it's about sharks, not sharks. There is the word "shark" in the annotation, but it doesn't say how to eat shark fin. In Zhang Dai's notes, there are many descriptions about shark fin. Xu Xiake has traveled all over the world. In his Travel Notes, there is only one paragraph about eating shark's fin. It can be seen that not many people ate shark fin in Ming Dynasty. It was not until the Qing Dynasty that there were two flavors of shark fin in Suiyuan menu. The first course is pure chicken soup, where shredded radish and shredded chicken wings are mixed into soup, and the harmony between softness and glutinous rice is the most important. The second is to simmer ham and good chicken soup with fresh bamboo shoots and rock sugar. After the official gentry advocated it, the fashion of eating shark fin became very popular. But it was not regarded as the top grade at first. "Clear Money" said: "For the banquet guests and the whole banquet, the barbecue banquet is the first, the swallow banquet is the second, the shark fin banquet is the third, the sea cucumber banquet is the fourth, the taro dry banquet is the fifth, and the silk banquet is the sixth." The so-called barbecue feast is commonly known as the' Manchu-Chinese banquet'. Swallow banquet is a banquet with bird's nest as the main part. Shark's fin mat, of course, is mainly shark's fin. But among the six kinds of banquets, shark's fin only takes the third place. During the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty, Zhao Xuemin began to remember how to eat shark fin in detail in Compendium of Materia Medica. He said: "Shark's fin is a popular product nowadays, and all banquet dishes must cherish it. Cut the dried chicken wings into pieces, three in size, and paddle two pairs of chicken wings. Remove the hard bones and pick up the soft thorns when cooking. Fish is as golden as chicken soup and the most delicious. Zhang Quan has cooked soft thorns into balls, such as fat cakes, golden and lovely, which are called sand thorns. " There is hardly any record in his book. During the Daoguang period, Guangdong Tongzhi recorded: "The beauty of sharks lies in their wings, which is the name of Guangdong shark's fin." It seems that shark's fin may have first spread from Guangdong, Fujian and other places.
Also in the light years of Qing Dynasty, shark's fin was popular for two reasons: First, shark's fin was included in the royal diet at that time; One is because Fujian and Guangdong officials often use shark fin as a tribute. If there are good people in the world, there will be nothing in the next life. It is common for salt merchants in various places to have more money than ten thousand yuan. Rewards and punishments are frequent, and banquets compete for wings, which is called wing seats. As a result, shark fin is worth a hundred times, ranking first in Li Yue. In Li Chongke's Diary of Yuemaotang, there are records about eating shark's fin. Other notebooks also have their own cooking methods. It seems that in the same light year of Qing Dynasty, eating shark fin became an important treat for officials and gentry.
The author studied Chinese studies under Mr. Yao Gonghe. Yao Shi used to be the chief editor of Shenbao, and he learned a lot. He said that at the end of the Qing Dynasty, literati gathered to talk about not state affairs, but everyone only talked about it.
Teacher Yao said that Li Hongzhang can cook by himself, and shark fin is also his specialty. When he was in Germany, he personally supervised the kitchen and held a banquet for the famous Smack. Westerners are keen on Chinese food, but are not interested in shark fin. When a general eats shark fin, he is in a hurry to eat it. His lips and tongue were numb because of the hot wings. He wanted to vomit and was afraid of being rude, so he had to swallow it while it was hot. Once, he accidentally sent his false teeth into his stomach. There is such a joke in the diplomatic field. Li never uses shark's fin for banquets.
In the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Zhidong's family often ate shark's fin. One year, his grandson got typhoid fever. When he was sick, he was very strict and didn't eat meat for almost a month. When Sun Wenshang was a child, he recovered less than 10 days, that is, he stole a cup of shark fin from the kitchen, and died of high fever and diarrhea due to fullness and stagnation. Because shark fin has a thick colloidal protein, it is not easy to digest, and intestinal fever will soon be cured. When the small intestinal ulcer has not completely healed, it is easy to cause intestinal bleeding and die due to stimulation. Although shark fin has nourishing effect, it is not easy to digest, and many people suffering from intestinal diseases or stomach diseases should not eat more.
After the Republic of China, the story of private kitchen wings was passed down from mouth to mouth. The chicken wings made by Hunan chef Tan are the most famous. Not only is the chef skilled, but Tan himself can wash his hands into the kitchen, and he has a deep study on water temperature (soaking time of hairy wings) and heat (cooking time). Zheng is the most elegant person in Fujian. Sichuanese are best at Zhang Dagan. Beijingers use the Wangs' food as the best ingredient, and they often choose Japanese top grade. Wang Can made his own wings, so he was called "the king of shark fin". This kind of atmosphere, some express the life art of the gentry family, and some express the extravagance of the rich and powerful.
Tan is a famous gourmet who loves shark fin. He eats a cup of shark fin every day and is famous all over the country. His younger brother is a famous painter Tan Zemin (famous for writing strict characters, he wrote the market strokes of China Bank and strict characters on banknotes). Zeyan and I are friends. He said that his brother ate too many chicken wings in his later years and often had diarrhea. In the past, there were no toilets. Tan used an old wooden toilet, and undigested shiny shark fin sharps were often found in his feces, which Mrs. Tan called "shark fin feces". His family advised him not to eat chicken wings often. It was once circulated by the outside world, but it was still a long time before Tan Yan died. Therefore, people should not go too far and go too far in seeking health care.