From ancient times to the present, the dragon robe is particularly mysterious to the general public. In fact, people in ancient China created many auspicious animals, such as dragons, unicorns and phoenixes, especially unicorns, which meant peace, well-being and good luck. But why did you choose dragon as the pattern on your clothes? Simply put, because the dragon has a deeper meaning than Kirin. Kirin is interesting to say. Some scholars believe that we were inspired by giraffes when we created Kirin (a Swiss beast) in the early days. In a sense, people must create such an image based on an image. In this land of Asia, people have never seen an animal with such a long neck, which is several meters long. It's really unimaginable. In ancient times, some people used this image, but China people couldn't accept it, so they changed the image of Kirin, shortened its neck and made it more ornate. We think that Kirin is just an auspicious beast, and dragon, as a beast, can go from heaven to earth, including into the sea and into the water. This is one of the most basic characteristics of the dragon as a symbol. We say it's "the real dragon son of heaven"; Happy is called "Yan Long Da Yue", unhappy is called "Long Yan is unhappy"; Our bed is called "Dragon Bed" and our chair is called "Dragon Chair"-everything is related to dragons. There used to be a Peking Opera called "Playing the Dragon Robe", which mainly said that if you made a mistake, you should still be punished, but you can't punish it directly. You can play the Dragon Robe as a symbolic punishment. I hope playing on the dragon robe will break your heart and play a warning role. This is a summer gown of auspicious clothes in the middle of Qing Dynasty. In our impression, it is bright yellow, which is the color of dragon robe, but this dragon robe is blue. Some people may think there is something wrong, but there is nothing wrong with it. In fact, there are four colors of robes-yellow, white, red and blue, which are bright yellow, moonlight, red and turquoise that we are all familiar with. The "Eight Banners" mentioned in the past are also these four colors-yellow, white, red and blue, and yellow, white, red and blue. During the Yongzheng period, the official uniforms were designated as these four colors: azurite, bright yellow, scarlet and moonlight, and azurite was the first color. During the Qianlong period, the heavier stone cyan was changed to blue, so the color of the blue robes became lighter and lighter. Clothes change all the year round. Because of the ritual control, the robes are the same in shape, but the materials used are different. This is a summer dress, which is transparent. Put your hand in and you can see it through your clothes. This is a tulle embroidered with dragons. There are many kinds of dragon robes. First of all, dresses, also known as "clothes", are worn on the most important occasions, such as enthronement, birthdays, winter solstice and so on. The second category is "Jifu", which is worn on auspicious days; Then "luggage" and finally "swallow suit". The so-called Yan clothes are usually worn when no one is around. This kind of casual clothes is closer to the clothes worn by our people. In fact, the dragon robe is equal to the work clothes. It is not only a symbol, but also a constraint on behavior, especially what kind of clothes to wear on what occasions. The picture on the right shows the material of a Ming dynasty dragon robe, which has not been cut. You can see clearly that in the middle is the human neck, that is, the head, and this place is to be cut. The robes of the Ming Dynasty are huge, unlike those of the Qing Dynasty. After the formation of dragon robes in Qing Dynasty, there were nine dragons on a dragon robe. There are only two pieces on the back of this material, and there is a big dragon in front. It is not easy for this kind of material in the late Ming Dynasty to be preserved today. There is a thread left in the middle, which should be cut from this place. This cloth is a direct tapestry. As can be seen from its back, when weaving this cloth, the pattern is directly woven on it. In other words, the pattern on the dragon robe is actually woven first and then cut. Now it's the Ninth Five-Year Plan, and the dragon on the dragon robe has some different characteristics accordingly. In the Qing dynasty, there were clear regulations on the dragon pattern on the dragon robe. Only five-claw dragons were used, and all the ministers below used four-claw dragons, so they were also called pythons. But don't think you can tell just by the appearance, because sometimes it is an imitation of the age, especially on porcelain, and then it can't explain its level. Therefore, it doesn't mean that any plate painted with five-claw dragon must be used. In the heyday of the Qing dynasty, there were few restrictions on the people and only a little restrictions on robes. For me, first of all, the color is bright yellow, the crown prince is apricot yellow, and the prince is golden yellow. The control below the queen is gradually decreasing, and other aspects are not so strict. Guanfu school 1. We often say "where are the silks and satins", so which of these four fabrics is different from the other three? A. Ling B. Luo C. Si D. Evaluation of satin: The difference between the four fabrics lies in the different weaving methods. Luo, silk and satin are all woven horizontally and vertically, and only twill is woven diagonally. Why is it called Ling? We always talk about diamonds, but in fact, at first it was related to ice, and twill was woven diagonally. Therefore, due to its special knitting method, the cost is very high. After the Ming dynasty, silk was basically not produced. In the Ming Dynasty, many famous calligraphers wrote their words directly on silk books. However, twill has a disadvantage, that is, once it is formed, it may be deformed if it is written and pulled hard. Therefore, because of its high cost and easy deformation, silk gradually died out after the Qing Dynasty. The ancients first used hemp and silk, and later used cotton, which was relatively late. As a textile, wool is used late, especially when it can be worn directly. As we all know, woolen goods are generally afraid to wear. Now there are very good textile technologies, such as cashmere, which belongs to wool and can be worn close to the body. But in the past, woolen cloth must not be worn. It is spiritual to wear it all day-it is too tight. Seeing a kind of underwear made of woolen cloth was tricked into saying that it can lower blood pressure, but it can't. It's refreshing to wear it. Why? It's too uncomfortable. Answer: A. Ling Er. In the twelve chapters of the dragon robe, there are mountains and rivers, and the axe is one of them. What do you mean the axe is here? A: True or False B: Getting a salary C: Strength D: Ma Weidou's theory of personal care: Chapter 12 is a symbol of the costumes of emperors in China, and it is a dozen decorative patterns embroidered on the costumes of emperors and senior officials in China, collectively referred to as "Chapter 12". There are twelve chapters in Zhou Li, but each dynasty has different rules. In the Qing Dynasty, it became stereotyped writing during the Qianlong period, and twelve chapters were embroidered on the most important dresses, indicating status, talent and virtue. Each decorative pattern in Chapter 12 represents a meaning. Except the axe emblem in the title represents right and wrong, the Ri Zhang emblem represents the sun, the moon emblem represents the moon and the star emblem represents the stars in the sky. These three signs take their meaning of "shining". The top of the mountain represents mountains and stability; Dragon seal pattern, taking the meaning of strain; China's insect emblem, representing birds, takes its literary significance; Zong Yi Zhang Wen, that is, the ancestral temple, takes its loyalty and filial piety; Algae strips, that is, algae, take their clean meaning; Fire emblem, that is, flame, takes its bright meaning; The pink rice coat of arms, that is, white rice, takes its nourishing meaning; The coat of arms is in the shape of "Asia" in black and blue, which means discrimination. Answer: A. True or false 3. Which of the following does not belong to the Qing Dynasty Royal Weaving? A: Jiangning Weaving B, Hangzhou Weaving C, Mingzhou Weaving D, Suzhou Weaving Ma Weidou Review: At that time, there was a special department in the Qing Palace, which was responsible for all the fabrics in the palace. In the past, the weaving bureau had two purposes: upper use and official use. Upper use refers to court use, that is, queen use; The officially woven cloth is for General Wang. Everyone is familiar with Jiangning weaving. Cao Xueqin's grandfather, Cao Yin, is an official here. He used to be the squad leader of Kangxi. He had a deep friendship, and because of this, he was later killed. If you are familiar with the court, you should be careful everywhere. Later, it was reckless, which led to the decline of the Cao family. Decline is also a good thing. As the saying goes, "Happiness is always dangerous", so Cao Xueqin wrote A Dream of Red Mansions. If their family is still so rich, I don't think he can write it. Jiangning weaving, Jiangning is Nanjing. Everyone in Suzhou and Hangzhou knows that the manufacturing industry is still very developed today. Mingzhou means Ningbo. In fact, the manufacturing industry is also very developed. Many tailors in Shanghai used to be from Ningbo. So why did Mingzhou later change its name to Ningbo? It was changed by the Ming emperor Zhu Yuanzhang. When Zhu Yuanzhang founded Ming, he asked Mingzhou to avoid national taboos and changed Mingzhou to Ningbo today, which is still in use today. Answer: C. Mingzhou Weaving 4. Dragons are beasts composed of many animal features. The total * * * consists of the characteristics of several animals? A: Six kinds of B, seven kinds of C, eight kinds of D and nine kinds of Ma Weidou Comments: Some people say that dragons have nine kinds of symbolic animals, that is, nine kinds are similar, but there are different opinions. Let's look at it one by one. Let's talk about its head shape first. The ancients described it clearly, saying it was "camel head" When we think about it carefully, the camel's head fluctuates and the faucet fluctuates. Second, the horns are antlers. Third, the eyes. There are two versions of dragon's eyes. One is that it is rabbit's eyes, and longan is red. On the other hand, shrimp eyes, eyes protruding. The fourth body, what we usually call the snake body, is more accurately the python body. Fifth, fish scales. There is no description of the tail in Nine Metaphors. In addition, there are eagle claws and Tiger Claw, which combine the claws of birds of prey in the sky with those of beasts on the ground. In Compendium of Materia Medica, Li Shizhen quoted Wang Fu of the Han Dynasty as saying that dragons are "nine elephants": head like a camel, horns like a deer, eyes like a rabbit, ears like an ox, neck like a snake, belly like a stork, scales like a carp, claws like an eagle and palms like a tiger. What is a stork? There are two solutions, one is like a clam shell, and the dragon's stomach is folded like a clam shell; There is also a saying that the stork is jiaozi. We often say that "dragons have nine sons, and each is different", and there is also a folk saying that "dragons have nine sons, but they don't become dragons". That is to say, the nine descendants of dragons are not dragons, but nine different animals, each with its own strengths and unique skills. What we often see in our life is that thin man, Liuzi. When I was a child, I always heard adults say that "the tortoise carries a stone tablet", and being slim can bear loads. In addition, the old prison cow, good music, has become a carved beast on Hu Qin's head today; The second son Yazi loves to kill and fight, and the dragon swallowing mouth on the handle is his image; The third son laughed at the wind, which was very close, and the beast in the corner of the temple was it; The fourth son, bran, can catch the clock; The Buddha sitting on the lion today is the fifth son of the dragon, so it is easy to sit; Seven sons are strong and easy to litigate, and the lion heads on both sides of the door are its appearance; Buried, ranked eighth, the dragons on both sides of the stone tablet are its statues; The head of the temple ridge beast is the smallest one, called kiss. This is our mythical explanation of dragons. Answer: D. Nine Antiques Clinic | Antiques I | This is a bottle. Square bottles are more difficult to make than round bottles, because as we all know, porcelain is soft before burning, and square things are easy to deform when put into fire. Simply put, the deformation rate of ring porcelain is very low and the stress is uniform. However, the square, especially this flat square, is easy to deform due to uneven stress, which is one of the reasons why square porcelain is rare in history. The pattern on the bottle is quite miscellaneous. These two paintings used to be called "civil-military films", with one article and one martial arts. On the one hand, they painted swords and horses, and they were martial arts films. On the other hand, all paintings are indoor scenes, not documentaries. The two sides of a typical military-civilian film are different. Judging from the furnishings, it's there. Putting this face today and changing that face tomorrow can be a different mood. It has everything here, including birds, flowers and two maids, which is precisely the cultural feature of the late Qing Dynasty. This pair of bottles should have come from Tongzhi to Guangxu in the late Qing Dynasty. In the past, there was a simple saying that this color was called "tongzhi color". The typical feature of the so-called Tongzhi color is that various colors rush here. Why is there such a feature in this period? It is because the western powers have brought all kinds of western cultural information and other needs to China people after they entered China. This pair of bottles should have a history of 100 years. At that time, it was a relatively high-grade folk display, which had nothing to do with the court. The maid painted on it is a very interesting phenomenon. It is difficult for us to see this kind of maid on porcelain, showing her feet. Why do you show your feet like this? This was the demand of the society at that time. Foot-binding began in Sui and Tang Dynasties and was popular in Song Dynasty. It has always had a strong cultural influence on the feudal society in China, and most of the women in Han areas are bound feet. The historical reasons for the formation of foot binding are very complicated, and it is not clear in one or two sentences. When westerners enter China, it is hard to understand how many women in China bind their feet, because they think that we are a prosperous, civilized and developed country, but binding our feet is a bad habit. But westerners will appreciate or appreciate our foot binding with curiosity. I suspect that this kind of bottle was used to seduce westerners and exaggerate our foot binding to foreigners. In the porcelain before Qianlong, foot binding was usually covered with long skirts, which kept the traditional cultural psychology of China people and made it easy for you to miss your feet. In the past, although there was a foot-drying meeting, there was only one day a year, and women could show their feet to men, but they were generally blindfolded, paying attention to "laughing without showing their teeth, walking without showing their feet" and walking without showing their feet. And this pattern on the bottle, so exaggeratedly sticking out its feet as decoration, I think it must be driven by some commercial interest. I think it may be forced by the market demand of westerners at that time, which looks strange, so from this perspective, it is a very important cultural relic of that period. | Antique II | The shape of this bottle is called "bravery bottle". Today, many people have never seen a gallbladder. It was like this after killing pigs before, and that's how the name "gallbladder" came from. There is also a saying called "awl handle bottle", that is, the old lady holds the awl of the sole, which is rare today. Which of these two names is right? Its bottom is very interesting. It used to be called sesame sauce bottom, which is very vivid. Many descriptions of artifacts in the past were vivid and not so academic. Its glaze is a kind of kiln glaze, and its color is very pure. During the whole imitation celadon period of Qing Dynasty-from Yongzheng to the middle of Qing Dynasty-100 years, the general process was based on flash blue, that is, the more blue, the earlier the relative age; The less blue, the later the relative age. If it is basically red, it is probably Daoguang year-this is a relative law, not absolute. This thing is probably from the mid-Qing Dynasty. If it is dry, it is also the last stage of dry. Why? Is determined by its bottom. There is a lot of broken glaze on this bottom, not because of later bumps, but because it is natural. We know that glaze flows at high temperature, and we can still clearly see its flowing shape, so it will stick to the kiln furniture below, and finally knock it down, and this defect will appear. This defect was well controlled during the Yongzheng and Qianlong periods of the Qing Dynasty. After Jiaqing Daoguang, due to the decline of national strength, people are not too particular about this matter, so this will happen if it is not well controlled. But it doesn't necessarily mean that this will not happen during the Qianlong period, so it can be concluded that this thing is in the late Qianlong period. The color is beautiful, with blue light shining in the red. Blue is a cool color and red is a warm color. When blue flashes in this warm color, it is calm and not so warm.