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Introduction to tea classics
I. Overview of Ancient and Modern Tea Classics It has been 199 1 many years since the first tea classic published by Lu Yu in the Tang Dynasty in China was published in Chen Zongmao. During the period of 1200, many classic works on tea books were published in various dynasties and generations. These works are rich in content, from science to economics, from philosophy to literature. The authors range from emperors to civilians. There were 13 kinds of tea books in this period, and there are 4 kinds at present. The most famous one is Lu Yu's Tea Classic, which is the first one with a high level. It comprehensively summarizes the knowledge and experience about tea before and after the Tang Dynasty, vividly describes the production, tasting and tea affairs of tea, deepens and perfects the deep aesthetic and cultural connotation of tea drinking, and is called the encyclopedia of ancient tea affairs.

After Tea Classic, there are Pei Wen's Tea Classic, Zhang's Fried Tea Classic, Su Geng's Sixteen Soups and Wen's Tea Picking Record, but most of them are special discussions. For example, Zhang's "Fried Tea" mainly talks about making tea with water. During this period, there were 3 1 kinds of tea books, and now there are 12 kinds. Look at his books, which are characterized by many regional and professional tea books. In addition to Daguan Tea Theory and Tea Classics, there are 14 species belonging to these two categories. For example, Beiyuan Tea Record is devoted to the study of Jian 'an tea, and Tea Set Tuzan is devoted to the study of tea sets.

The most famous tea book in this period was Daguan Tea Classic written by Song Huizong and Evonne. They were the only people who wrote tea books among more than 300 emperors of the feudal dynasty in China for thousands of years. Tea fighting became a common practice in the Song Dynasty. Daguan Tea Theory recorded tea fighting in detail, with complicated procedures, strict requirements and exquisite skills.

Besides Daguan Tea Theory, there are Ding Wei's Beiyuan Tea Story in Song Dynasty, Cai Xiang's Tea Story, Shen Kuo's Tea Law in Contemporary Period, Tang Geng's Tea Fight Story and Sang Qing's Tea Continuation Classic. The Ming Dynasty was the time when China published the most tea classics. In 250 years, 68 kinds of tea books have been published, and 33 kinds exist. The Ming Dynasty was a period of reform and development of "tea drinking school through the ages", especially the reform of abandoning group tea and advocating scattered tea, which was of great significance to the development of tea making and the production of famous tea in China. Reform calls for tea people to write tea books that meet the needs of the times. Tea books in Ming Dynasty have three characteristics: first, they attach importance to the inheritance and development of predecessors' achievements, and also attach importance to the collection of predecessors' data. For example, Zhu Youbin's Tea Classic is a collection of predecessors' works on tea, while Tu Ben's Tea Classic is compiled from more than a dozen tea classics such as Lu Yu's Tea Classic and Cai Xiang's Tea Book. Lin Dashou edited Zhang's Jian Cha, Ouyang Xiu's Da Ming Shui Ji and Fu Cha Shan Shui Ji into Tea Classics and Water Discrimination. Secondly, some tea books have taken a different approach and put forward different views on the previous tea books. For example, Zhu Quan's "Tea Spectrum" opposes steaming green group tea with various fragrances and advocates steaming green leaf tea alone. Third, there are many modifications and abridgements to the predecessors' classics. For example, JUNG WOO's Complete Works of Tea Classics was compiled by editing and deleting other people's tea classics.

In a word, tea books in Ming Dynasty were a combination of plagiarism and innovation, and closely combined with the times. From the demise of the last feudal dynasty to the present, it can be divided into two stages.

One is 19 12 turn 1949. During these 37 years, due to the war, the people were poor, the tea garden withered, and the tea culture fell into a low tide. Only 65,438+00 books have been published. One of them is The Complete Works of Tea Classics translated by American Wei Jian UX. It is worth mentioning that three of the 65,438+00 books were written by contemporary Cha Sheng Wu Juenong, who also organized the translation of The Complete Works of Tea Classics.

Second, since the founding of New China, tea culture began to recover and develop in this period. Especially after the reform and opening-up, the tea culture flourished unprecedentedly and became the best period for the development of tea science in the history of China. According to incomplete statistics, more than 600 kinds of tea books (including those published by Hong Kong and Taiwan) have been published in the past 55 years, with diverse genres and rich contents. It involves education, diet, medicine, ethics, philosophy and many other aspects.

To sum up, the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties published 13 kinds of China tea books. Song and Yuan Dynasties published 33 kinds; 68 kinds were published in Ming dynasty; Published in Qing dynasty 17 kinds; More than 600 kinds have been published in modern and contemporary times; * * * About 740 species.

Second, several representative tea classics

In the Tang Dynasty, Tea Classics and Tea Boiling Classics were introduced.

In the Song Dynasty, Daguan tea theory and tea annals were introduced. In the Ming Dynasty, Tea Book was introduced in Four Books (namely, Tea Record, Tea Spectrum, Tea Book and Tea Solution). In the Qing dynasty, the continuation of tea classics came out.

At present, China Tea Classic, China Famous Tea Annals, China Tea Canon and a set of tea series are imported. Written in 780 AD, it is the first Tea Classic in China and even in the world. The book is divided into three volumes, about 7000 words. This book summarizes and discusses tea science in pre-Tang and mid-Tang dynasties from many aspects. "One Source" expounds the origin of tea, the growth characteristics of tea trees and the functions of tea. Introduction to "Two Tools" 15 Tea-picking and tea-making tools. "Sanchuang" describes the time of tea picking and the technology of tea making. "Four Devices" introduced 26 kinds of instruments and methods of using tea at that time. "Five Boils" introduces the method of cooking tea. "Six Drinks" said that drinking tea began in Shennong, was heard in Duke Zhou and flourished in Tang Dynasty, and introduced the methods of drinking tea. Seven Things introduces some people, events and documents related to tea. Eight Fruits introduced eight tea-producing areas in the Tang Dynasty. "Nine Views" refers to when the utensils for making and cooking tea can be omitted and when they cannot be omitted. Ten pictures is to draw the contents of the above nine aspects with white silk, which looks clear at a glance.

Tea Classic is an encyclopedia of tea, covering biology, cultivation, tea making, taxonomy, ecology, pharmacology and so on. The Book of Tea also records myths, fables, historical records, poems, biographies, geography and other books before the Tang Dynasty, and is a treasure house of ancient Chinese culture.

The Book of Tea is the first classic work of tea science in China and even in the world. It is 4 165438 years earlier than the first Japanese tea book, Eating Tea for Health (published by Japanese Zen Master Rong1965438), and 4/earlier than the Complete Book of Tea Classics (published by William Ux, USA, 1935).

Lu Yu, the author of The Book of Tea, was born in the 21st year of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty (733). He was an abandoned child and was adopted by monk Zhiji of Xita Temple in Tianmen, Hubei Province. /kloc-he was a young monk in the temple before he was 0/2 years old, and then he escaped from the temple to learn drama in the troupe. In the tenth year of Tianbao (742), I met Cui, a doctor of Ritual Department, and was funded to conduct tea inspection. It took 38 years from study and investigation to writing Tea Classics. Lu Yu changed from an abandoned child to a world-famous tea expert, which influenced the whole world and was called "Cha Sheng" and "Tea God" by the world. He died at the end of Tang Zhenyuan (804) at the age of 765,438+0 and was buried in Zhushan, Huzhou. Written by Zhang in the Tang Dynasty, the book was written around 825 AD. The main content is that while inspecting tea, Lu Yu inspected famous springs and famous waters all over the country, and discharged 20 famous springs with the best tea making. In order to increase the credibility of the famous spring, the book also wrote a story about Lu Yu's recognition of water. Li Jiqing, the secretariat of Huzhou, once went from Huzhou to Yangzhou. Lu invited Lu Yu to tea and ordered the sergeant to take the water from the south of the Yangtze River. Sergeant went to the river to get water. When he came back, because the ship was bumpy, he reached the shore and the water in the bucket was half. The sergeant was afraid that his master would blame him, so he filled it up by the river. Lu Yu said after tasting the water, this is not South Zero Water. Li Jiqing didn't believe it. Lu Yu poured half the water in the bucket before tasting it, saying it was Nanzero water. Li Jiqing doesn't know why, but everyone admires him.

Zhang, a native of Shenxian County, Hebei Province, was a scholar of Tang Yuanhe for nine years. He comes from a eunuch family and likes to drink tea and judge water. Edited by Evonne of Song Dynasty, completed on 1 107. The book is 2,900 words, and the text is divided into 20 articles, including origin, season, picking, steaming, manufacturing, identification, white tea, roller, lamp, reed, bottle, ladle, water, point, taste, fragrance, color, Tibetan baking, tea tasting and external baking. Its origin, processing and cooking are discussed in detail. In the evaluation of color and fragrance, Daguan Tea Theory is more clear and detailed than Lu Yu's Tea Classic. In the spirit of tea ceremony, Lu Yu proposed "diligence" and Evonne proposed "tranquility", which further deepened the realm. This is a more in-depth objective reflection of tea tasting in Song Dynasty.

The author of Daguan Tea Theory is Evonne, the eighth emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty. This man lives in luxury and is incompetent in governing the country. Finally, he was captured by the Nomads and died in Wu Guocheng (now Yilan, Heilongjiang). However, he is a romantic scholar, whose piano, chess and calligraphy have their own merits, especially poetry and calligraphy. At the age of 25, he wrote "Peach Pigeon Map" and became a national treasure. He is the only emperor in China who wrote tea classics. Cai Xiang. This book was given to the emperor by the author in the first year of Song Zhiping (105 1). The full text is about 1000 words. In the Song Dynasty, Beiyuan Tea was the main tribute tea (produced in Jian 'an, Fujian), and Cai Xiang was the transshipment ambassador of Fujian to supervise the production of Beiyuan tribute tea. He once said that he offered a dragon group tea, and then made a dragon group for the emperor, which won the emperor's appreciation, so he was famous for being good at making tea, so the emperor often asked him some questions about building tea. However, Lu Yu's Tea Classic did not talk about building tea, while Ding Wei's Tea Map in Song Dynasty only talked about picking tea. So I wrote a tea tasting record and presented it to the emperor to answer questions. The book has a preface and a postscript. The middle text is divided into two parts, the first part is about tea, and the second part is about tea sets. The preface is about why he wrote "Tea Story". The preface is about that the manuscript of "Tea Story" that he played on the emperor was stolen by the minister and later bought and published, but there were many mistakes. Therefore, after revision, it was carved on a stone in May of the first year of Zhiping (1064) and spread forever.

Another book, The Book of Tea, was written by Bird in the Ming Dynasty around 1595. Book 1500 words, divided into 23 sections, including tea picking, tea storage, cooking, soup separation, soaking, tea drinking, color and fragrance, tea becoming unusable, spring water and well water unsuitable for use, teacups, cloth wiping, tea box separation and tea ceremony. Each section is very short, some are only a few words, but the writing is concise and innovative. Many contents have broken through the formulation in Lu Yu's Tea Classic, such as the understanding of soil. This book briefly describes the method of frying green tea. The relationship between tea quality and tea making is pointed out, which is a great progress in tea processing. In making tea, I put forward a different view from Cai Xiang's, and put forward the view that "the soup must be cooked five times, and the tea makes three wonders". The five boiling points are: shrimp eyes, crab eyes, fish eyes, lotus beads, boiling, "initial sound, turning sound, vibrating sound, sudden sound and silence". We should listen to their voices to see their soup. "Three musts" is the order of putting tea, that is, "upper investment, middle investment and lower investment." These three tea throwing methods are still in use today. It is also recommended to make tea in a warm pot first. When tasting tea, less is the most important thing. "sip alone is god, two guests are happy, five or six are pan, and seven or eight are giving."

Tea Records makes a detailed scientific discussion on the color and fragrance of tea, the water and utensils used for making tea, which is a breakthrough and innovation on the basis of Lu Yu's Tea Classic. In the last section of the book, the "tea ceremony" is put forward, and it is highly summarized: "The tea ceremony is made when it is refined, dried when it is preserved, and cleaned when it is soaked." Bird was the third person who put forward the word "tea ceremony" in ancient times (first, Jiao Ran in the Tang Dynasty "who knew that tea ceremony was true, only Dan Qiu did", and second, "so tea ceremony prevailed"), and he was also the most comprehensive person. This book can be said to be the complete works of ancient tea art, which is of great guiding significance to tea art. I suggest the teahouse owner take time to read it. Written by Xu Ciyi in the 25th year of Ming Dynasty (1597). The book is about 4700 words. There are 36 sections, including making tea, making tea in ancient and modern times, frying tea, collecting, setting meals, taking, wrapping, setting meals every day, selecting water, sipping, talking about guests, teahouse, boys, drinking time, not easy to use, good friends, traveling, expediency, festivals and exams. These chapters are written according to the author's experience and put forward the view that "famous mountains are famous for their tea". The advantages of fried green tea in tea making were summarized. The preservation method of tea is put forward, which is concrete and practical. The method of making tea is scientific and practical. The book also puts forward the basic setting of the teahouse (the original type of teahouse) for the first time.

Shu, a tea man, put forward the "tea ceremony" in the final Kao Ben, which promoted tea drinking from material to spirit.

Author Xu Ciyi, a native of Qiantang, Nanshan (present-day Hangzhou), is literate, good at writing poems, fond of collecting strange stones and loving tea. He has lived in a tea garden for a long time and can grow and make tea. It is the largest tea book in Qing Dynasty and the largest ancient tea book in China. It has a volume of 654.38+ million words, and almost all the tea books before the Qing Dynasty were collected. The reason why it is called "Continued Tea Classic" is that it is divided into three volumes according to the writing method of Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" in the Tang Dynasty, namely, the source of one, the instrument of two, the creation of three, the instrument of four, the cooking of five, the drinking of six, the seven things, the eight things, the nine strategies and the ten pictures, and finally a volume of tea method is attached.

Continued Tea Classic collates the collected tea books according to the content of 10, which is convenient for readers to collect and compare, and keeps some lost tea books. Therefore, the summary of the general content of Sikuquanshu said: "In the hundreds of years since the Tang Dynasty, the places where tea was produced and the methods of making tea were different, and the cookers were also different from ancient times to modern times. Therefore, according to Lu Yu, although his book is ancient, its method is not feasible today. As a supplement, it is quite practical and attracts countless people. " This book is well worth reading.

Lu Yancan, a native of Jiading, was once the magistrate of Chong 'an (now Wuyi City). Be an official in the tea area, be good at tasting tea, picking tea, steaming tea, tasting soup and waiting for fire. It is representative in modern tea books and has a high level in comprehensive tea books. It was compiled by more than 50 domestic tea experts for three years, with publication number 1992. The book is divided into tea history, tea nature, tea category, tea skills, tea drinking, tea culture and appendix 7, with the largest number of words * * * 1.6 million. This book comprehensively and systematically introduces the origin and spread of tea, the nature and function of tea, the types and colors of tea, the cultivation and storage of tea, the taste and customs of tea, and the relationship between tea and culture. This is a classic work, which highlights the emphasis, simplicity and complexity. The book embodies the highest level of contemporary China tea science in breadth, depth and accuracy. It is another new tea classic with modern level after the publication 1200 years of Lu Yu's Tea Classic in Tang Dynasty.

It is worth mentioning that two large-scale tea books were published later, one is China Tea Dictionary and the other is China Famous Tea Annals, both of which were published in February 2000. Both are compiled by hundreds of tea experts from all over the country. China Tea Dictionary contains 9972 entries, and 10 17 kinds of famous teas are listed in China Famous Tea Records.