200 years ago, Shandong Confucianism established the aesthetic orientation of China's diet, emphasizing deliciousness, neutrality and health. 1600 years, Qi summarized "steaming, boiling, roasting, boiling, frying, frying, wax, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, sauce, wine, honey and pepper" in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River, which laid the framework of China's cooking technology; During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, a large number of famous Shandong chefs and dishes entered the DPRK, which further sublimated the elegant, upright and peaceful style of Shandong cuisine.
Classic dishes include sliced tofu, sea cucumber with scallion, three-silk shark's fin, roasted Four Treasures of the Study, sweet and sour yellow croaker, nine-turn large intestine, fried double crisp, roasted abalone, braised prawns, pickled fish, fried fish slices, warm squid slices, fried squid rolls, tremella broth, wooden ribs, cooked duck, crispy chicken, yellow croaker tofu soup, shredded yam, honey pear balls and casserole powder eggs.
Development history
The mountain is connected with the sea, with a column of thousands of miles. Shandong is located in the lower reaches of the Yellow River with a mild climate. Rivers, lakes, hills, plains, oceans and other landforms in the province make all kinds of Shandong cuisine extremely rich and balanced: fruits and vegetables, livestock, seafood, freshwater rivers, mushrooms, dry goods and so on. The frequency of Shandong cuisine is between 15%- 18%. The most suitable cooking methods for each food are different, and the variety of food directly stimulates the variety of cooking methods in Shandong cuisine. For more than two thousand years, Shandong's unique material conditions and the Confucian spiritual pursuit of "never getting tired of eating" have finally formed a magnificent landscape of Shandong cuisine.
Shandong vegetable planting has a long history, a wide variety and excellent quality, and is known as "one of the three largest vegetable gardens in the world". Zhangqiu scallion, Lanling garlic, Laiwu ginger, Jiaozhou cabbage, Weifang radish, Cao Xian asparagus, Shouguang leek, etc. It is famous at home and abroad. High-yield and high-quality fruits, such as Yantai Apple, Laiyang Pear, Yangxin Pear, Leling Jujube, Dezhou Watermelon, Feicheng Peach, Qingzhou Peach, Dazeshan Grape and Cao Zhou Papaya. This is one of the best fruits. The output of aquatic products ranks among the top in China, and there are more than 60 kinds of seafood in coastal areas, such as small yellow croaker, hairtail, yellow croaker, cod, red croaker, pomfret, flounder, thrush, ray and eel. There are more than 20 kinds of algae and freshwater fish resources such as Enteromorpha, Ulva, reef membrane, laver, Gracilaria lemaneiformis, sea radish, kelp, Undaria pinnatifida, Artemisia scoparia, Sargassum fusiforme and seawater, mainly including crucian carp, carp, grass carp, snakehead, hairy crab, white shrimp, prawn, turtle, silver carp and silver carp. Animal resources mainly include Luxi Yellow Cattle, Bohai Black Cattle, Mengshan Yellow Cattle, dezhou donkey, Yimeng Black Pig, Duoshan Pig, Laiwu Pig, Muwantou Pig, Lianhua Pig, Yantai Black Pig, Changwei Black Pig, tengxian White Pig, Pingdu Black Pig, Black Tea Pig, Big Tail Han Sheep, Small Tail Han Sheep, Lubei White Goat, Jining Qingshan Sheep and Yimeng Shandong. The brewing industry has a long history. These are famous products from a long time ago. Rich products provide rich material resources for the development of Shandong cuisine.
the Spring and Autumn Period
The Biography of Qilu Yao appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period. It takes cattle, sheep and pigs as the main raw materials, and is also good at making poultry, game and seafood. At that time, there were many written records about cooking requirements and fashion hobbies. During the Western Zhou Dynasty, Qin and Han Dynasties, Qufu, the capital of Lu, and Linzi, the capital of Qi were both quite prosperous cities. The catering industry is booming, and a large number of famous chefs have emerged.
Guan Zhong, the first politician in the world, advocated that "people who lose weight should also love others, and people should also lose weight". What you want, what you support, just use your ears. "'If you carve an egg, you can take it away, so that you can accumulate and hide everything.' This egg sculpture is not only the earliest food carving processing record in the world, but also a typical Keynesian economic thought. His policy of stimulating consumption, expanding employment and increasing national income by encouraging luxury catering industry is consistent with Keynesian economics in Britain in the 20th century, which made Shandong cuisine occupy the starting point of high technology 2,700 years ago. In the book, Guan Zhong expounded the food etiquette issues such as the order of serving. He said: "If you eat the wrong sauce, you can eat the sauce, there is no contradiction. Anyone who buys food, birds, animals, fish and turtles must drink soup first. Don't put it in thick soup, but put it in front of the sauce. It's a rice chess piece, left and right. "This means that when placing and displaying all kinds of sauces, you can't violate the etiquette rules. Generally speaking, birds, beasts, fish, turtles and other animals must be accompanied by vegetable soup before eating meat. Soup and meat are arranged alternately, meat and vegetables are placed in front of the sauce, and the seats should be arranged in a square. The rice is on the last side and the wine is on the left; Put the pulp for oral cleaning on the right. This shows that Shandong diet paid great attention to etiquette and service order as early as the Spring and Autumn Period, and this distinctive feature has continued to this day.
During Guan Zhong's assistance, a large number of famous chefs from Lu emerged. Wang Chong's "On Fu Heng" has such a record: "They taste the same. There is water in acid and salt in light. Fire and water will change, so food is neither salty nor light. It is still sour and salty, and the water is poor and weak. " Lydia mentioned in this article is Qi Huangong's favorite person and the most famous chef at that time. It can be seen that Qilu, the chef in the Spring and Autumn Period, is not only good at seasoning with salt, but also good at turning water into fire. At the same time, they understand the fact that adding salt will make it sour.
For example, the historian Qian Mu pointed out that "if China's orthodox culture is compared to western Greek culture, China should first admire Shandong people", and diet is no exception. Confucianism, which originated in Shandong, has not only shaped Chinese characters for more than 2,000 years, but also shaped China people's dietary concept. Confucianism attaches great importance to diet, and even says that "civilization begins with diet". Confucius, the founder of Confucianism, is not only a great thinker and educator, but also a great gourmet. Confucius systematically and comprehensively expounded his views on food hygiene, health preservation, cooking, knife work, seasoning and etiquette. As Zhang Dai's "Introduction to the Collection of Gourmets" said: "In the Middle Ages, Confucius was pushed by his taste and never got tired of eating. The word "good" has some meaning. For cooked food, it is almost impossible to eat or eat; If you eat vegetables, you won't eat them from time to time. Four words, eating classics, that is, health theory. " Confucius' concept of diet laid the core concept of China's diet aesthetics in the next two thousand years, and it is an important cultural treasure of China.
The food, food, drink, stew, pickled products, soup and treasures are described in detail from the aspects of raw material collocation, cooking methods and seasoning requirements. The requirements of condiments are "harmonious, sour in spring, bitter in summer, spicy in autumn, salty in winter and smooth and sweet". Basically summed up the cooking methods and requirements such as boiling, boiling, roasting, stewing and roasting.
It can be seen that many of the earliest historical materials of China's cooking theory came from Shandong and spread widely in Qilu, thus laying the foundation of Shandong cuisine.
Qin and Han dynasties
From the unearthed stone reliefs of Han Dynasty, there are about 40 images containing kitchen contents in China, and more than 20 images unearthed in Shandong Province rank first in all provinces, reflecting the position of Shandong cuisine in China cooking in Han Dynasty. In particular, the kitchen relief stone unearthed in Qianliangtai, Zhucheng, the southern tip of Jiaodong Peninsula, is a kind of relief stone in the tombs of the Han Dynasty, with a very beautiful kitchen portrait painted on it. This stone is1.52m high and 0.76m wide. The whole picture consists of semi-finished food rack, slaughter, cooking, brewing and other parts. Tortoise, fish, rabbit, pig, etc. Hanging on the semi-finished product rack at the upper end. On the right is the slaughter map, which depicts the scene of handling fish, sheep, cattle, pigs, dogs, chickens and ducks. In the soup and cooking part, there are scenes such as pumping water, burning fire, chopping wood, kneading dough, cooking and barbecue. In addition, there are many animals such as chickens, ducks, geese and dogs on the screen. From the stone tomb of the Han Dynasty in the above picture, we can clearly see that as early as the Qin and Han Dynasties, the cooking materials in Jiaodong Peninsula were already very rich, or the cooking materials used by chefs in Qilu were very extensive. It is worth noting that the kitchen staff have a strict division of labor, and they are doing their work in an orderly manner from the workflow of raw material selection, slaughter, cleaning, cooking and barbecue. In addition, it is more noteworthy that a man is sitting on the ground, a woman is beating him with a spoon in her hand, and someone is beating him with a stick. This may be a true portrayal of "implementing kitchen discipline" at that time. In the past, the chef in the kitchen often reprimanded his disciples and even beat them with sticks. It also shows that the kitchen was disciplined at that time. Most notably, almost all the 40 people who appear on the screen are wearing hats with uniform shapes. It can be seen that there were uniform regulations on the dress of chefs on some occasions at that time. In addition, the Shandong Provincial Museum also exhibited two vivid images of chefs in the Han Dynasty. The left side is 0.34 meters high. He is a cook who is killing fish. He holds a sharp knife and looks confident, which shows that his swordsmanship is brilliant; The one on the right is 0.29 meters high. He is a chef who is closing his face. It seems that he is also very skilled. It can be fully seen from the above two cultural relics that aquatic products played an important role in Shandong cuisine in Qin and Han dynasties, which is also one of the characteristics of Shandong cuisine today.
Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534)
From Jia Sixie's Book of Rites, we can see that the cooking technology of Shandong cuisine made great progress in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Jia Sixie, a native of Yidu, Shandong Province, was a county magistrate in the Northern Wei Dynasty. He paid attention to the investigation and summary of agricultural production, agricultural and sideline products, livestock products and aquatic products processing technology all his life, and wrote a book "The Book of Rites". This book is the earliest, most systematic and complete processing experience of various agricultural and sideline products in China and even the whole world. Among them, only food processing has written 26 articles, introducing more than 100 processed varieties. This paper introduces various food processing technologies, such as brewing, frying, baking, steaming, steaming, pickling, steaming and cooking. As for condiments, salt, soy sauce, fruit juice, vinegar, soy sauce, wine, honey and pepper were introduced. It is worth noting that Jia Sixie also introduced the cooking methods of famous dishes, such as "Braised Dolphin" and "Fried Fish with Honey". This shows that the cooking skills in Shandong at that time were comprehensive, and these skills were completely inherited from today's Shandong cuisine.
Tang and song dynasties
The Tang Dynasty was the peak of the development of ancient civilization in China, and the cooking technology of Shandong cuisine reached a very high level.
The Linzi section of the Tang Dynasty recorded the high cooking level of Qi Minshu's Shandong cuisine: "Nothing can be eaten except spicy, delicious and five flavors." The reason why Duan can record so much cooking information in Miscellaneous Notes is related to his family background. Duan Shicheng's father, Duan Wenchang, was a big country in the Tang Dynasty. Very delicious. In the Tang Dynasty, Qilu kitchen knife reached its peak, which was reflected in the historical materials and poems left over from the Tang and Song Dynasties. Records: "Jinshi Duan Shuo tasted Nan Xiaolian, who is kind and can be blown lightly. If it is in line with the rhythm, it is in line with the skills of tourists. " Clever knife method, shredded pork can be blown by breeze, which shows that shredded pork is good and knife method is good. At this time, Shandong folk food is fresh and elegant. At this time, Jinan's flavor snacks are invincible, such as wonton, cherry lollipop, old balls in syrup, colorful cakes, food and so on.
There was a so-called "northern cuisine" in Song Dynasty and Lin 'an, represented by Shandong cuisine. The Book of Qi Yao Min in the Song Dynasty also recorded the fencing performance of Shandong chefs at the Taishan Temple Fair, saying, "One person bends down and uses it as a knife, takes a catty of meat, transports the knife, removes the meat and rubs it. The soldiers were not injured at all. " This cutting method is the same as the current chef's performance of cutting shredded pork with thick cloth, but it is more exciting. In the first year of Bao, Confucius House was formally established, and the most important branch of Shandong cuisine-Confucius House Cuisine was born-Tao.
Ming and Qing dynasties
After the demise of the Northern Song Dynasty, due to foreign aggression and long-term war in the north, the population of Han nationality in the Yellow River basin dropped sharply. After the Song Dynasty moved its capital to Hangzhou, the economic center of China moved from the Yellow River to the Yangtze River, but this did not hinder the continuous improvement of the cooking level of Shandong cuisine. At this time, a large number of Ahui spices were introduced into Shandong cuisine, thus enriching the flavor of Shandong cuisine; As the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties approached Beijing, Shandong cuisine chefs became an important source of manpower for the court and government chefs, and Shandong cuisine cooking was sublimated in the process of serving the court. Shandong has become the source of high-quality ingredients in Beijing, and Shandong ingredients such as abalone, sea cucumber, shark's fin and mullet eggs have become the main ingredients commonly used in Beijing court and government dishes.
Zhang Qijun, a Taiwanese philosopher, pointed out that Beijing played an important role in Shandong cuisine in the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties: "Since Liao and Jin Dynasties, Beijing has been the royal capital for more than 700 years, especially in the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, which gathered outstanding talents from all over the country and was the place where talents gathered in Beijing's prosperous times. Whether it's aristocratic dining or official entertainment, the above good dishes must be served, and these people have really eaten and seen them, and they can't cope without the real thing. Therefore, in the past 700 years, the best cooking style has become a national achievement. Food, under the guidance of a great official and scholar, is not only delicious in technology, but also first-class in style and excellent in standard, which is incomparable in other places. Many hotels and Shandong people have this dish. Its style is: generous and noble but not petty, upright and not selfish, and generally high standards, rather than asking for one or two dishes or partial tastes. This can be said to be a typical China cooking. "
In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, Shandong commodity economy flourished. According to the story of the Song Dynasty, it truly depicts the social customs of Linqing in Shandong Province in the Ming Dynasty. There are 108 kinds of dishes in the book, such as dry steamed sun chicken, fried bones, three dishes of chicken essence, fried sausages, fried whitebait, silver bud bean sprouts, fried winter bamboo shoots, yellow bud leeks, laver and so on.
During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Shandong chefs not only monopolized the imperial restaurant in the Forbidden City and the catering market in Beijing, but also brought Shandong flavor to Beijing, Tianjin, Baishan, Heishui and other places through immigration, becoming the representative of northern China cuisine. Due to radiation and public concern
In the 1920s and 1930s, Fushan Port emerged, and there were thirty or forty famous shops in Fushan County, Shandong Province. For example, Jisheng Pavilion, built in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, is famous for its bird's nest, shark's fin and sea cucumber seats. Its daily turnover exceeds 100 yuan. 1936, taking advantage of Tomb-Sweeping Day, I earned more 1750 yuan. Because Fushan people are well-run and famous chefs come forth in large numbers, they soon become the main force of Beijing's catering industry. According to incomplete statistics, most famous shops named "Eight Buildings and Eight Houses" in Beijing are run by Fushan people. The scale of this restaurant is amazing. It not only has elegant halls and facilities, but also has a stage for the rich to celebrate their birthdays and sing plays. "Dongxing Building" once ranked first among the "Eight Buildings" in Beijing, with more than 200 employees at its peak. Another example is the "tongheju" of the first "eight big houses" in Beijing. Emperor Hirohito of Japan likes to eat Tonghe food. There is a restaurant called Fengzeyuan in Hukou Village, Fushan County, which is called Luan Tang Xue and nicknamed Luan Pubao. Before the founding of the People's Republic of China, great warlords such as Cao Kun, Wu and Zhang often came here. In the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, it also became a place for party and state leaders to receive foreign heads of state and distinguished guests. Today, it is still famous for its authentic Shandong cuisine.
There are about 3,000 overseas Chinese in Foshan City, Shandong Province, of which more than10,000 are engaged in cooking, and more than 90% are engaged in cooking. These people are distributed in more than 30 countries and regions on five continents. They run six or seven hundred famous restaurants.
Modern Times
Since 1980s, the state and government have regarded the cooking art of Shandong cuisine as a valuable national cultural heritage and adopted the policy of inheritance and development. On this basis, a new generation of chefs flourished and made new contributions to the inheritance and development of Shandong cuisine.