In addition, when Daiyu first entered Guo Rongfu, she had seen Wang Xifeng's "Kingdee wore a narrow coat of red satin and a green silver mouse coat with color printing". In the forty-ninth episode, Li Wan wore a "green silk double-breasted coat". When xiren wanted to go home to visit relatives, she put on a "green satin squirrel coat" in addition to a "pink and silver mouse coat carved with ancient philosophers". Although the title of "jacket" existed in the Ming Dynasty, Fang Yizhi said in "Tongya Clothing" in the Ming Dynasty: "Today, Wu people call it a jacket, and northerners call it a jacket." Tsui Hark's "Clear Money and Clothes" said: "The coat, coat and dress added to the robe are called coats. Men and women have the same name, but the system is different. " Zhao Zhenmin's "All-service Components in China Clothing" simply sums up: "There was no word' Zha' in ancient China ... it was also covered." Combined with the "northerners" mentioned by Ming people, they can also be considered as foreigners from Shanhaiguan and Zhangjiakou. It should be said that jacket is the customary name of fat coat in Qing Dynasty.
In chapter 51, Baochan, Jingui's maid, wears a "brocade (gold)-edged pipa placket". Pipa lapels are curved lapels with square corners, which, like the lack of robes in the Qing Dynasty, are typical national costumes. Pipa vest was popular in Qing Dynasty.
Baoyu's costume image appears many times in the book, and is often described as "Two-color Kingdee with big red arrow sleeves" (the third time), or "Axillary arrow sleeves with A Qiu-colored pythons and white foxes" (the eighth time), or "Axillary arrow sleeves with white pythons" (the fifteenth time), or "Axillary arrow sleeves with red gold pythons and foxes" (the nineteenth time). Although arrow sleeves existed in the Ming dynasty, people did not wear much, mainly limited to shooters. Because the arrow sleeves are horseshoe sleeves, clothes
The sleeve body is narrow, the sleeve end is inclined, and the sleeve surface is long and curved, which can cover the back of the hand without affecting archery and keeping warm. In the early Qing Dynasty, the imperial court strongly advocated "not abolishing riding and shooting", so the use of arrow sleeves in dresses became a typical system of men's wear in the Qing Dynasty. In addition, embroidered embroidered robes were the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty, and it was not until the Qing Dynasty that the wearing scope was relaxed. It has been recorded in the Qing Code that princes, county kings, Baylor, bodyguards, princesses, adulterers and others can wear embroidered robes. The way to distinguish grades is mainly the number of pythons on clothes and the number of claws of pythons (such as four claws and five claws).
The word "foreign" has been involved in clothing fabrics several times. For example, for the third time, Wang Xifeng wore a Ayabeni silk narrow coat and a jade crepe skirt, and for the forty-ninth time, Xue Baochai wore a lotus and green flower crane, all imported materials.
Hairstyle is like the seventy-first time. It is written that Siqi, the maid of the Spring Festival Room, is wearing a "curly head", which is a fluffy high bun. In the thirty-eighth chapter of Biography of Heroes of Children written by Wen Kang in Qing Dynasty, there was a saying of "combing the head of a big pine tree". This shows that many costumes in A Dream of Red Mansions directly depict the costumes of the Qing Dynasty.
Crown
The third time I wrote that Baoyu wore a purple crown on his head, and Qi Mei grabbed two dragons to grab pearl gold.
Press: Liu Ming Ruoyu's History of the Forbidden City, the water collection "The Crown of Hair" says: "It is made of gold and inlaid with green beads. Every building has hundreds of gold, or more than a thousand gold or two thousand gold. There is a four-claw python on the top, and a forehead on the bottom, just like what players wear, with long pheasant feathers on the left and right. If you are lucky enough to travel abroad, you will wear it from Wang Ti to Wennuan Temple brand. Wearing narrow sleeves, wearing a jade belt, carrying a eggplant bag and throwing knives, such as singing the story of "biting the navel and attacking the encirclement." Tu and Gao Yongshou are young and old-as ugly as Spencer. " From this point of view, Baoyu's dress is quite similar to that of a teenager in the Ming Dynasty.
Hegong
The forty-ninth time, I wrote that Daiyu was covered with a crane with red feathers and white solitary skin, and Xue Baochai was a crane with a lotus green bucket pattern.
Press: The word "crane" can be found in ancient books. "The Book of Jin Xie Wan Biography" says: "Wear a white silk scarf, and a crane hangs fur." Shi Shuo Xin Yu Qi Xian: "When Meng Chang didn't arrive, he was at Jingkou and saw Wang Gong hanged on Gao Yu. When it snowed slightly, I peeped through the fence and sighed,' This is really a fairy.' "History of the Five Dynasties. "Lu Chengchuan" says: "Wear a Chinese towel and a crane, according to the number." According to Xu Hao, the note said, "The man in stork hair is a crane, and his name is beautiful. "It is understood that the crane is a kind of wool fabric with bird hair as raw material, hence the name. But what style is still puzzling. Wei Ruoyu's "History of the Forbidden City in the Ming Dynasty" water collection "Yili" says: "Those who are like robes and sleeves have not been well made in recent years. The old system did not sew sleeves, hence the name "Ye". Colors and elements are not limited. "This is more clear. It looks like a robe, but it doesn't sew sleeves, so it looks like a crane. This kind of clothing was found in the palaces of the Ming Dynasty, and of course, it was followed in the homes of nobles and ministers.
In addition, there is a "clothing" cloud in Volume III of Cao Tingdong's "Essays on Health Care" in the Qing Dynasty: "The style is like a quilt without two sleeves, but it is always folded on it for collar. Commonly known as' a bite', also known as' arhat suit'. When the weather is cold, you can wear it outside to keep out the wind and sit still to keep out the cold. " The world said, "The maharaja used a crane to walk in the snow, and now it is used as a cover, so it is also called a shroud, and the skinner is the right." What I said is basically the same.
White fox skin
The forty-ninth time, Daiyu covered her face with red feather gauze, and the white fox covered the crane.
Press: Biography of Historical Records of Meng Changjun says: "There is a fox in Meng Changjun with white fur and a value of up to 1,000 yuan." It shows that white fox skin has always been a valuable fur. Song and Ming's Heavenly Creations also said: "Every fox also gives birth to Yan, Qi, Liao and Bian. The price of pure white fox armpit hair is similar to that of mink. The value of yellow-brown fox skin is one-fifth of that of mink, and its warm-keeping function is second only to mink. "
marten
The forty-ninth time I wrote that Shi Xiangyun was wearing a big fur coat, a black and gray lining and a big mink collar.
Press: Mink skin is also a very precious leather, and it is called one of the "Three Treasures of Kanto". Song and Ming Ying Xing's Heavenly Creations introduces: "Minks are produced in Liaodong and Korea. Its mice like to eat pine nuts, and the barbarian waits under the tree at night, holding his breath and shooting quietly. One mink skin is not enough. More than 60 minks make one skin. Those who wear mink coats are warmer in the snow than in the sky. Squint your eyes, try it, so it's expensive. There are three colors, one is white, the other is silver mink, the other is pure black and the other is dark yellow. " In the Qing Dynasty, Zhen Wu recorded in the Collection of Nourishing Ji Zhai: "Those who have more than three products only take the royal service, and those who occupy the title do not recognize it; Exchange a mink coat for more than four products, and Han Zhanke doesn't care. He approved the performance, and from the thirty-seventh year of Qianlong, Zhang Jing of the military department and members of the imperial palace were allowed to wear mink robes unless they were four products. Fogg's Listening to the Rain (Volume II) and Pitching said: "In this dynasty, only the outer coat was outward, but if the robe and coat were inward. The prince and county kings are not allowed to bring black foxes. First, second and third-class civil servants are allowed to wear mink robes, and third-class Wu Zhi is Fu Heye. Wen Sipin and Wu Sanpin are allowed to take Marten and Lynx away. Five to seven products pen with mink leader hat brim calibration military protection. Eight, an official is not allowed to wear mink, lynx, Bai Bao, Tianma, silver rat. If the guards, Han Zhankedao, Zhang Jing, and military aircraft all wear the same color regardless of rank, then officials of the Manchu-Mongolian-Han Army who are on business trips in cold places outside the mouth are allowed to wear mink and lynx as usual, regardless of rank. "The two theories are slightly different, but mink is not comparable to ordinary fur, which shows that people in Jiafu regard mink as private casual clothes, indicating how luxurious it is.
Doloni
The forty-ninth time, Li Wan wore a blue double-breasted coat and Baoyu wore an eggplant fox fur coat.
Reporter: At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, when envoys from western European countries came to China, they often presented the Qing emperor with doro woolen cloth. According to the case records of Qing Dynasty, the Dutch imported dorothea in the 13th year of Shunzhi and dorothea and dorothea in the 6th year of Kangxi. In the ninth year of Kangxi, countries in the western regions entered Duoluorong. In the twenty-fifth year of Kangxi, the Netherlands entered Doraemon and Doraemon again. In the fifth year of Yongzheng, countries in the western regions entered Hongduoluo again, and after seventeen years of Qianlong, they entered Caiduoluo again. In addition, western missionary giulio aleni once said, "As for silk, cotton, flowers and plants, so are all kinds of fruits." . The difference is like velvet satin, such as lock blessing, velvet, gold and silver satin, and a horse is worth one or two hundred gold. "During the Qianlong period, Japanese Zeyuan wrote a China book" My Pen on Qiongpu ",in which Wang, a businessman from China, said:" The minister of modern times died, and the court held a funeral for Doro, which was a tribute from the west, like a mirror. " Another cloud said, "It's a mirror. The name of Tangshan is Duoluo, which is produced in the west, so it has a number. "
The above information is quoted from Fang Hao's Congcong. From the story background of western articles, we can see that Duoluo is an exotic product and an expensive tribute. In fact, it is a kind of wide woolen cloth.
What a shame.
In Chapter 49 and Chapter 52, I wrote that the fur worn by Baoqin is made of the hair on the head of a wild duck.
According to: Qiu Fu's name is not recorded. According to wu shichang's textual research, "Miscellanies of Xijing" records that Sima Xiangru was in Chengdu, "drinking in the narrow city and having fun with Wen Jun", and according to "Erya Yi Shi Birds", "Crickets and rays, waterfowl and geese are also covered. The old Tibetan cloud said,' There are mandarin ducks and wild geese. Gaoyou notes "Huainanzi" cloud:' Long neck green, shaped like a goose. "So, Kun ball is likely to be made of duck feathers. In addition, the book of Jin. "Emperor Wu Ji" said: "In November of the fourth year of Xianning, Xin Si, Sima Cheng, doctor too much, presented a pheasant robe. The emperor used strange skills and clothes, which were forbidden by the ceremony and burned in front of the temple. Shen Jia, I think those people dare to commit internal and external crimes. " In addition, the Biography of Prince Wen Hui of Southern Qi said: The prince "is good at making rare things and weaving peacock hair for fur, which is glorious and golden, too far away." "This further shows that pheasant fur exists, which is a kind of bird wool fabric closer to pheasant fur.
Wipe your forehead and show your dignity.
The third time I wrote that Baoyu wore a purple crown on his head, and Qi Mei grabbed two dragons to grab pearl gold. The sixth time, I wrote that Xifeng often wore mink to show her respect. The forty-ninth time I wrote that Shi Xiangyun wore a big red gorilla felt on his head to show his respect.
Press:, Bao Mao, Zhao, "Clearing the Foreign Debris" Volume 10: "Reading Notes" Volume 1: There is a scratch on women's jewelry today. This word is also found in Biography of Teachers' Morality in Tang Dynasty, Biography of Nan Man and Preface of Han Yu's Sending Zheng Shangshu. Hu Guang said in the note of Han Yu Fu Zhi:' It is freezing in the north, and mink is warm and crowned. Because it became a jewel, and this is the origin of the forehead. Press: Use mink to warm the forehead, that is, the princes set the forehead, that is, the hat, that is, Qi Mei, and the actors weigh the forehead. In addition, Fan Bin's poem "Yan Dou Zayong" notes the cloud: "Winter boudoir wears mink, which is called' Zhaojun Collection'. "According to the above information, Baoyu is wearing jewelry. The Zhaojun set worn by Xifeng and Xiangyun is a warm set of mink, which is applied to the crown, not jewelry. The name of "Zhao" should be related to Wang Zhaojun's departure from the fortress.
Pi, Wu ren
Fifty-fourth time, Aaron went home, and Feng told Pinger to take out yesterday's lapis lazuli silk eight-ball Tianma leather jacket and give it to Aaron. The fifty-second time, Baoyu was going home, and the old lady ordered Yuanyang, "Give me that black clouded leopard mourning dress yesterday." At first glance, Baoyu was golden, dazzling and blue, unlike the fur worn by Baoqin. I heard the old lady say with a smile, "This is called sparrow gold. It is woven with the thread of Russian peacock hair. "
Press: "The Annals of the Qing Dynasty" says: "The sand fox was born in a sand dune, its body was white in small color, and its holster was a hill. What's under his stomach is called Tianma skin, and what's under his chin is called Wuyunbao. They're all treasures. " According to this, Tianma skin and Wuyun leopard are both sand fox skin, which is also called "sparrow gold" below, which is puzzling. The preciousness of Tian Ma Pi can be proved by Hao Yixing's Record of Sun Yue Tang: "You Xi Tang said,' When the capital enters the DPRK, all officials are sheep. I heard today that I don't wear foxes, horses or relics. "At the beginning of Kangxi, the century-old fox lead Tianma became a private service, with bones to raise sheep and frost on the grass."
Lynx's big fur
On the fifty-third occasion, Jia Zhen looked at the packed offerings, dressed in shoes and big fur, ordered people to sit in the sun on the stone mountain under the church column, spread a big wolf skin plate, and watched the sons and nephews come to collect the annual harvest.
Press: lynx, also known as lynx and relic sun, is a rare animal, distributed in northeast China and other places, and it is extremely precious to make leather clothes. Dai Lu's Miscellanies of Fujin in Qing Dynasty recorded: "The two yamen, Jingtang and the Korean War, are separate. It was freezing at five o'clock last night. Who doesn't blame Kwai Zun? " Fishing for foreign drama, when Kangxi was in the sea, Ren Kuizun and Hong Jia performed the following three products, and mink and lynx were forbidden. In an instant, the rhyme is stable. Zhao Hengfu's poem "Ji Shi Yuan Xi" says: "I remember giving a banquet to Joan, and cicadas and minks competed for each other." Today, Zhanke Road in Jingtang is still allowed to be Marten, and I don't know when it will be restored. In addition, Hao Yixing's "Book Printing Hall Record" also said: "You Xitang said:' When the capital entered the DPRK, I saw that all the officials were sheep fur. Today, I heard that all the people in the class are dressed in fox, lead and horse. "Especially in the early years of Kangxi, for a hundred years, foxes and lead horses have become private servers, with bones to raise sheep and frost on the grass." The above information shows that the lynx is a valuable fur coat. In the early years of Kangxi, very few people wore lynx, and later more and more people wore it, so in thirty-four years, it was forbidden to wear mink and lynx below the third grade. Probably after the mid-Qianlong period, the ruling class became increasingly extravagant, the ban was gradually relaxed, and more and more people wore it. Jia Zhen is a general with three qualities and is not restricted by the ban.
How about Finch Gold?
The fifty-second story is that yesterday, Grandmother Jia ordered Yuanyang to give Baoyu the black clouded leopard shroud. Yuanyang agreed to go, and one did. At first glance, Baoyu was golden, dazzling and blue, unlike the fur worn by Baoqin. I heard the old lady say with a smile, "This is called sparrow gold. This is made of peacock hair by the Russian government. "
Press: wu shichang wrote in detail in the article "Where is the Sparrow Gold" in the book "Feather applique Silk Unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb". He quoted historical materials from the Han Dynasty to the early Qing Dynasty, and confirmed that there were more than ten kinds of clothes made of bird hair by working people in ancient China, most of which were made of fur to keep out the cold, and some were woven into luxury goods such as Luo, satin and brocade for the upper ruling class women to make dresses. As for the information in the early Qing Dynasty, he only quoted a poem by Wu Meicun: "Jiangnan is good, and the loom is better than nature. Kong Cui is full of flowers and ice silkworm is full of fog. It is a new kind of little dragon. " It seems a little insufficient to explain the existence of peacock wool fabric. In the early Qing Dynasty, Ye recorded a passage in Volume 8 of Records of Reading the World, which was informative and explanatory. This record says: "In previous years, satin flowers were only embroidered with silk, and brocade was mostly carved with gold to make it shine." Today, peacock hair is made into satin, called golden hair, and the flowers are more gorgeous. Each horse is only twelve feet long and is worth more than fifty taels of silver. "This proves that peacock wool fabrics do exist and have certain specifications and market prices. However, it is said in A Dream of Red Mansions that it is the product of the Kingdom of Ross, which is purely a postscript and unreliable.
In addition, the fourth volume of the sinology series contains Zhou's "A Brief Introduction to the Palace Museum", which also says: "Peacock wool was made into python clothes during the Qianlong period, ... these are rare products." It can be seen that before liberation, this kind of woolen python clothing still existed in the exhibition hall of the Forbidden City, which is also a strong evidence of the existence of sparrow gold.