Tea was first used as food and medicine, and drinking was based on food and medicine. People in China have a long history of drinking tea, which can be traced back to Shennong period, but the history of drinking tea is relatively late. There may have been tea drinking in some areas (the origin of tea trees and its marginal areas) in the pre-Qin period, but there is still a lack of written and archaeological support.
(1) Tea drinking began in the Western Han Dynasty.
There are different opinions about the origin of tea drinking. Generally speaking, there are pre-Qin theory, Western Han theory, Three Kingdoms theory and Wei-Jin theory.
1, pre-Qin theory
According to Shennong's Classic of Food, Lu Yu believes that tea drinking began in Shennong's era, and "tea is a beverage, which originated from Shennong". (Tea Classic Six Drinks) Shennong, a native of jiyan, is the tribal leader of the ancient capital of China with the Yellow Emperor. However, Shen Nong Shi Jing was written according to the textual research of modern people. It is only a legend in history, not a belief. After the Han Dynasty, the ancient primitive society began to drink it. A Qing people thought that "Qin people began to drink tea after taking Shu" ("Records of the Day Tea"). The ancient belief that tea drinking began in the Warring States period is only speculation, and there is no direct evidence. Tea drinking in the pre-Qin period either originated from legends or was indirectly speculated, and there was no reliable material proof.
2. The Three Kingdoms Theory
There is a saying in the Biography of the Three Kingdoms, Wu Shu Wei Yaochuan that "a small handless cup is secretly given to replace wine". This kind of beverage, which can replace wine, is tea beverage, which is enough to prove that the court of Wu had already drunk tea. On this basis, tea drinking in China began in the Three Kingdoms. There is no doubt that drinking tea in Soochow during the Three Kingdoms period. But Dongwu tea drinking originated from Bashu, earlier than Dongwu. Therefore, tea drinking in China must be earlier than in the Three Kingdoms period.
3. Wei and Jin Dynasties
Wen's Tea Classic and Chef's Notes hold that tea drinking began in the Jin Dynasty, while Song and Lu hold that tea drinking began in the Wei and Jin Dynasties.
4. The Western Han Dynasty said
Hao Yixing in Qing Dynasty pointed out in "Prove Custom": "The method of drinking tea began at the end of the Han Dynasty and sprouted before the Han Dynasty. Sima Xiangru's article is full of mistakes, and Wang Bao buys tea about Wuyang. " Hao Yixing believed that tea drinking began in the late Eastern Han Dynasty and sprouted in the Western Han Dynasty.
Wang Bao, a famous poet in the Western Han Dynasty, praised the promise of "cooking all kinds of tea" in Yue Yue, which is the earliest credible record about drinking tea. Yue Yue has "cooking all kinds of tea" and "Wuyang buying tea", and it is generally believed that the "tea" of "brew tea" and "buying tea" is tea. Tongyue was written in the third year of Emperor Xuandi of the Han Dynasty (59 BC), so the time for China people to drink tea will not be later than the late Western Han Dynasty in the middle of the first century BC. We believe that tea drinking in China began in the Western Han Dynasty, but it was later than the consumption and medicinal use of tea. China people found that tea and Chaze were used as early as the Western Han Dynasty, even dating back to the Shang and Zhou Dynasties.
Wang Bao is from Sichuan Zizhong, and the place to buy tea is Pengshan, Sichuan. Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao, Wang Bao were all Shu people, so it can be seen that Bashu people invented tea drinking.
From the Han Dynasty to the Three Kingdoms, tea was a rare enjoyment in the upper class outside Bashu, and drinking tea was limited to princes and ministers. "Three Kingdoms, Wu Zhi Wei Yao" notes: "Yao drinks no more than two liters. At the beginning of the ceremony, I gave a cup of tea instead of wine. " Sun Haomi gave Wei Yao tea, not wine, which indicated that there was tea in Wu Dong Palace.
Zhang Zai, a poet in the Western Jin Dynasty, wrote in his poem "Climbing the White Tulou in Chengdu": "The fragrant tea is six clear crowns and overflows nine districts." It is said that Chengdu's fragrant tea is all over Kyushu, which is exaggerated by scholars, but it is also close to the truth. Lu Tongjun notes: "Xiyang, Wuchang, Lujiang and Jinling all produce good tea. Badong has a unique fragrance. " Tao Jinqian's Postscript of Searching for God: "Jin Xiaowu is a scenery of Xuancheng and often goes to Wuchang Mountain to collect tea." Wang Jinfu's "Anecdotes": "Yuyao people are in Hong, and they go into the mountains to pick tea." It shows that tea was produced in Hubei, Anhui, Jiangsu and Zhejiang during the Jin Dynasty.
During the Jin Dynasty, tea drinking gradually spread from the upper class to the lower class. Jin Gan Bao's "Seeking God": "Xiahou Kaizi Wan Jen died of illness ... If he was born sitting on the big bed in the western wall, he would find tea." Although this is a fictional story, it also reflects the fact that ordinary people drink tea. Legend of Guangling's Obsession with the Old: "In the Jin and Yuan Dynasties, there was an old grandmother, each of whom took a cup of tea alone and bought it at the market." Old people go to the market to sell tea every morning, and citizens scramble to buy it, which reflects the fashion of drinking tea among ordinary people.
In the Southern Song Dynasty, Qian Shan's "The Story of Xing Wu" contained: "Wucheng Wenshan, out of the imperial court", "Changxing pecked at the wood cen, and every year the satrap of Xing Wu and Baling County gathered here for a tea-picking banquet with a pavilion." Wucheng Wushan produces tribute tea, and Changxing County has a pavilion. The county heads of these two counties gathered here to supervise the production of tea. Jiangnan area not only drinks tea, but also produces tea on a certain scale. The Book of Southern Qi: "I'm careful not to sacrifice spiritually. I only put cakes, tea, rice and wine. Dear Lord, salt is also. " The Emperor Wudi of the Southern Dynasties told the world that there are four kinds of offerings before the spirit, such as tea, no matter how high or low. It can be seen that tea has entered the homes of ordinary people.
After Wei Dynasty's Luoyang Ji, the temple in the south of the city said, "When Su first entered the country, he did not eat mutton and cream paddles, but often ate crucian carp soup, so he was thirsty for tea juice. ..... When I was in the middle of things, Liu Hao of Su Mu Wind specialized in drinking tea. " At first, people in the Northern Dynasties longed for cheese paddles, but influenced by Liu Hao and others in the Southern Dynasties, they also liked tea.
Tea drinking began in the Western Han Dynasty and originated in Bashu. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Three Kingdoms, the Jin Dynasty and the Southern and Northern Dynasties, it gradually spread to the vast areas of the Central Plains. Tea drinking has developed from the upper class to the folk, and the area for drinking and growing tea is becoming wider and wider.
Tea is related to religion.
During the Han, Wei, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Taoism, an inherent religion in China, was formed and developed. At the same time, Buddhism originated in India also spread and developed in China. Tea is widely favored by religious people because of its light and quiet nature and the function of sleeping and treating diseases.
(A) Taoism and tea
Taoists take medicine to make an alchemist, in order to thoroughly remould oneself and become immortal, so tea has become the first choice of Taoists, and drinking tea is consistent with taking medicine by Taoists. Tao Hongjing, a famous Taoist in the Southern Dynasties, wrote in Miscellaneous Notes: "Bitter tea becomes thin and bones, and yesterday Dan Qiu Zi and Huang Shanjun took it." Dan Qiu Zi and Huang Shanjun are legendary immortals. Drinking tea can "change bones" and satisfy Taoism's pursuit of immortality. Wang Fu, a famous Taoist priest in the period of Emperor Hui of Jin Dynasty, wrote: "Yuyao people went to the mountains to collect tea. When he met a Taoist priest, he led the flood to the waterfall with three green cows and said,' Give Dan Qiu Zi a drink. Wen Zi is good at it. He often thinks of it and sees Hui. There are big teas to give to each other in the mountains. I pray that my son will die one day and I will beg for an inheritance. ""Fairy Dan Qiu Zi asks Yu Hong for tea.
Taoist propaganda raised the status of tea.
(B) Buddhism and tea
"Biography of the Book of Jin" notes: "The only way, Dunhuang people also. ..... when drinking tea in summer, it is one or two liters. " He is a disciple of Put Lolerk. He returned to Horinji in Yecheng (now Anyang, Henan Province) and Zhaode Temple in Linzhang County, and then led his disciples to cross the river to Jianye in Jin (now Nanjing), and then to all parts of the South China Sea, and finally died in Luofu Mountain, Guangdong Province. He founded a meditation room in Zhaode Temple, where he meditated. He stayed up all day, drinking tea, but he was sleepy and meditated. The monks in the Jin Dynasty believed in the Record of the Self-Mirror of the Interpretation of the Door: "The feet are light, the chest is ridiculous, the house is not worried about cold and heat, the food is not sweet, the servants have orders, and water and tea are needed." During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, analytical metaphysics and debate were very popular. Buddhism was first introduced and attached to metaphysics. Buddhists chased Mu Feng and cooked tea to help him speak.
"Continued Monk Record": "Yao, surnamed Yang, from Hedong ... hanged a car to drink tea years ago." Fayao is a disciple of Hui Yuan, a famous monk in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, and a famous master of Nirvana. Fayao likes drinking tea, and drinks tea every meal.
Song Lu: "Prince Xin 'an, Prince Luan's brother yu zhang, a strange Taoist priest on Bagong Mountain, set up tea for the Taoist priest, and Zi Shang said,' This is sweet dew, so why talk about tea? "Tanji became a monk at the age of thirteen and worshipped Kumarajiva's disciple and monk as his teacher. He came from Guanzhong to Shouchun (now Shouxian County, Anhui Province) and founded Shouchun School, which is what Cheng Shichi called the Southern School. Tan Sitong is good at Cheng Wei's Wheel of Time, and he also has a lot of research on "Three Theories". He once wrote "Six Cases and Seven Cases". He lived in Dongshan Temple of Bagong Mountain for a long time, and then moved to Zhongxing Temple and Zhuang Yan Temple. Two princes visited Tanji, and Tanji hosted a banquet.
Buddhists practice with tea as their capital. They are the first to open their minds, believe in faith and blindly practice tea Zen.
Ke lai Jing cha
"Make all the tea" in Wang Bao's "Tongyue" means to make tea with respect to the guests after they come home as guests.
He Fasheng, a Song Dynasty man in the Southern Dynasties, wrote in the book "Promoting Books in Jinzhong": "When Lu Na was a satrap, General Xie An of Wei often wanted to accept it ... When he arrived, all he had was tea and fruit." Luna entertained the guests with tea and fruit.
Liu Yiqing, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote in A New Interpretation of World Languages: "Ren Yuchang was very famous when he was young. ..... Unexpectedly, sitting at the table drinking, he asked people:' Is this tea, tea?' After the guests sat down, they began to serve tea. In the same book, it is also recorded: "Wang Meng, the long history of Jin Situ, likes to drink tea, and people want to drink it, and all the scholars suffer. Every time I want to wait, there is water today. "Wang Meng's hospitality is reflected in his" drinking for people ".
Hong Jun quoted "Food Prohibition": "When it is cold and hot, you should give first frost tea, and you will get three honors in the end." After the guests come to greet each other, please drink three cups of tea first
It is not only a secular etiquette for guests to offer tea, but also for the monks in Tangji, who have the same way and customs.
During the Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, entertaining guests with tea became a common custom of the Chinese nation.
Tea literature began to flourish.
During the Jin and Song Dynasties, there were stories about tea in strange novels such as Sou Ji Shen, Shen Yi Ji, Sou Shen Postscript and Yi Yuan. Nv Jiao by Zuo Si, Building in Bai Cheng by Zhang Zai and Miscellaneous Poems by Wang Wei are the earliest tea poems. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Bao, a female writer, created the ode to fragrant tea, which was lost. Zhuan Fu by Du Yu in the Western Jin Dynasty is the first essay on tea in the history of literature, which is full of aesthetic feeling and has a great influence on the creation of tea literature in later generations. Wu Chu's "Tea Fu" in Song Dynasty said: "Qing prose was spread in Du Yu, and thoughts were also heard in Lu Yu." It can be seen that Du Fu's influence in the history of tea culture.
Du Yu's Zhuan Fu is only a fragment, and the text is as follows: "Lingshan is just a mountain, and the clock is a strange product. Jue gives birth to grass, and rice grains cover hills. It is nourished by fertile soil and watered by rain. It's only early autumn in June, so there is little farm work. Getting married and traveling together is taking and seeking. Water is a note on the edge, clear; The choice of pottery comes from the east corner. For example, use Gongliu. However, this is the beginning, and the bubble is ups and downs. It's like snow, Ye Ruochun. " "Adjust mentality and mentality to get rid of fatigue."
During the Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, tea literature initially rose.
Tea bud
Tea art is the art of drinking tea, and it is an artistic way of drinking tea. Including the procedures and skills of selecting tea, preparing utensils, selecting water, making fire, waiting for soup and learning tea.
There are descriptions of tea art in Du Yu's Fu, such as choosing water: "Water is a note for it, and it is clean", and choosing the clear water of Minjiang River; Selector: "Tao Jian is selected from the East Corner", and porcelain produced in the East Corner (now Shangyu, Zhejiang) is selected as the tea set. Stir-fried tea: "The foam is ups and downs, as bright as snow, just like spring." Fried tea soup, the soup is floating, as bright as snow and as bright as spring flowers; Drinking tea: "Drink it in one breath and get Gong Liu." Divide the tea soup with a spoon.
What is described in Zhuan Fu is the embryonic form of Chinese tea art, which originated from Bashu.
The formation of tea drinking custom
Lu Yu's "Six Drinks of Tea Classics" also said: "When you are immersed in customs, it permeates between the two capitals of the country and the DPRK, between Gyeonggi and Yuzhou, and you think it is better to drink from your own house." According to The Book of Tea, the wind of drinking tea spread among the people at that time, with Luoyang in the east and Chang 'an in the west, and Hubei and Shandong being the most popular. Tea was regarded as a family drink, forming a "drinking is better than house". The first draft of Lu Yu's Tea Classic was written in the first year of Daizong Yongtai, and the final draft was written in the first year of Dezong Jianzhong. The popularity of tea classics further promoted the formation of tea drinking customs.
In the closing performance of Volume 6 of Feng Ji in the mid-Tang Dynasty, there was a passage of drinking tea: "Southerners like to drink, but northerners don't drink much at first. During the kaiyuan period, there were demon-falling masters and Daxing Zen in Lingyan Temple in Taishan. Learning Zen is good for insomnia and not eating at night, so everyone is allowed to drink tea. People are narrow-minded and cook and drink everywhere. Since then, they have followed suit and become a custom. ..... So the tea ceremony became popular and all the princes and ministers drank it. ..... It's almost a custom to spend the night in poverty. It starts in the middle and flows outside the Great Wall. " Yan Feng believed that Zen promoted the formation of tea drinking in the north. After Kaiyuan in the Tang Dynasty, "Tea Ceremony" prevailed in China, and the wind of drinking tea permeated the ruling and opposition parties, and "staying in poverty" and "leaving the Great Wall" became a custom.
In the late Tang Dynasty, Huayang's "Chef's Notes" contained: "There is a little tea between Kaiyuan and Tianbao; Many virtues and great calendars will surely flourish after construction. " Huayang believes that tea originated in Xuanzong period, became more and more popular during the reign of Su Zong and Dai Zong, and became popular after Dezong.
Tea Classic, Feng Shiwen Ji Jian and Fu Shan Shou Lu have basically the same views on the development and popularization of tea drinking. Before Kaiyuan, there was not much tea. After Kaiyuan, especially after Jianzhong (AD 780), all princes, ministers, scholars, farmers, workers and businessmen drank tea. Tea is consumed not only in the vast areas of the Central Plains, but also in the border minority areas. There are even tea shops, "from Zou, Qi, Pao and Li, and gradually to Jingyi City, open more shops and buy more fried tea. Mo Wen is vulgar, throwing money to drink. "
Cindy Lee Biography of Old Tang Dynasty: "Tea is food, which is no different from rice and salt. It is given by people from far and near and has the same customs. Not only is it exhausting, but it is also difficult to give up, especially between the fields. " Tea is as indispensable to people as rice and salt, and farmland farmers have the same hobbies.
As can be seen from the above, the custom of drinking tea in China was formed in the middle Tang Dynasty.
Popularization of tea drinking
Tea drinking became more and more popular in Song and Tang Dynasties. Song Mei Yao Chen's "Nanyoujiamingfu" says: "Huayi is quite a leopard, drinking all day long and not satisfied, rich and poor, and sometimes sipping endlessly." Song and Wu's "Liang Lumeng" Volume 16 "Op" contains: "Those who can't afford to cover others, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea." Since the Song Dynasty, tea has become one of the "seven things" to open the door. The preface of Song Huizong and Evonne's "Daguan Tea Theory" said: "A gentleman, like Webb, Mu Gao, Xiu De, Yang Yazun, is engaged in drinking tea. Since Gu Nianjin 18 years old, the fine selection of materials, the workmanship of production, the victory of quality and the wonderful cooking have all achieved the ultimate. "
Wu Dream Volume 16 Tea Shop Notes: "In today's tea shops, flower stands are arranged, exotic pines and cypresses are placed on them, storefronts are decorated, and songs are sold by knocking on doors. Only porcelain lamps and lacquerware are sold, and there will be no silver pots. The night market has a water shop in Dongdan, the main street, and people who order tea and soup are sightseeing. There are many rich children in a teahouse, and all departments get together to learn musical instruments and teach music, which is called' brand name'. Human feelings tea shop, this is not for tea soup, but for this reason, find more tea golden ears. There are also those who specialize in opening tea shops for Wang slaves' gathering places, and there are also those who borrow money from various sources to buy old people, which are called' market heads'. There are three or five tea shops on the street, and there are prostitutes upstairs, called' night tea houses' ... this is not the place where gentlemen should stop. There is also the Huangjianzui Qiuqiu Tea House next door to the store, and there is also a tea house in Zhongwan Wangmu's house. There are also tea shops on the street, which will be inspected, and they are all places where literati gather. In the street and neighborhood, you have your own tea bottle to order tea along the door, or on the first day of the first month, in case of good or bad luck, you can send tea to the neighborhood to communicate with each other. There is also a first-class street company, with hundreds of soldiers, who come to the front to deliver tea and set up seats for money, called' dirty tea'. If Buddhists want to write inscriptions, they must first send tea along the door as a step to join the WTO. " There are many tea shops in Lin 'an (now Hangzhou), the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, and not only the tea shops on earth. Scented tea house, night market, and people who buy some tea soup for sightseeing in Dongdan. Some carry tea bottles and order tea along the door, some send tea to the door to spread mats, and monks send tea along the door to prevent accidents. Tea plays an important role in society.