Clothing is the most concentrated embodiment of human material civilization and spiritual civilization, and it is also a barometer of the evolution of society and times. With the high development of commodity economy, clothing in the middle and late Ming Dynasty changed from production, supply and sale to consumption, showing distinct cultural characteristics. This paper tries to make a brief analysis of this.

First, a breakthrough in the illegal intrusion system.

Clothing not only has the practical value of dressing up, but also marks a person's social status and dignity in feudal society. As early as the Warring States period, Xunzi advocated that "clothes should be made and palaces should be measured" (Xunzi Wang Zhi), and in the Western Han Dynasty, Jia Yi expounded the significance of "different clothes and different products, ranking up and down" (New Books 1), so this principle has penetrated into the thoughts of emperors of all dynasties, and "clothing and restoration" has almost become. The so-called "a generation of prosperity, there must be a generation of crown service system", [1] its cultural significance is here.

In February of the first year of Hongwu (1386), at the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic of China, Zhu Yuanzhang, the founder of the Ming Dynasty, issued an imperial edict, which made strict regulations on the shape, texture and color of the clothes and costumes of officials and people all over the country: all gentry wear hoods, while officials wear black hats, round necks and black boots; Scholars wear a four-towel variegated collar, not yellow or propaganda; The scarf with "green swastika" on the top is a red and green silk belt; Silver plating is allowed for wives' jewelry, gold beads for earrings, silver for bracelets, light color for clothes, and silk, silk and silk for group shirts; Prostitutes in Qi Le wear bright horns and soap, and are not allowed to be with ordinary wives. [2]

Two years later, Zhu Yuanzhang felt that the four-scarf was not perfect, "copying the four-scarf, promulgating the world, and making the sergeant salty" [3]; It is also ordered that "men's and women's clothes should not be embroidered with gold, silk and plain yarn, jewelry and bracelets should not be made of jade and pearls, and boots should not be decorated with patterns and money, which is a crime" [4]. In the fifth year of Hongwu (1372), "The dresses of folk women are only allowed to be purple, and gold embroidery is not allowed. Light colors such as purple, green and pink should be used for robes, and red, crow green and yellow should not be used "; Hongwu six years (1373) "Today, agate, coral and amber are not allowed to be used in Shu Ren's silk scarf circle, and so are non-official entrants; Shu Ren cap shall not be capped, and the cap beads only contain crystal fragrant wood "[5]. In order to ensure the implementation of these systems, the Daming Law promulgated in the thirteenth year of Hongwu (1380) has a special clause, which severely punishes the behavior beyond the clothing level: "If you wear clothes, use brocade, silk, silk, colored embroidery ... and make curtains and bedding with red gold, and women will use gold embroidery." Those who advocate the use of gold jewelry bracelets, when the incident occurs, demand that they get what they deserve (according to the official position 100, they will be dismissed without saying anything, and those who have no official will be fined 50, and their parents will be punished), and they will be used for clothing and chased into the official position. [6] In the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu (1393), Zhu Yuanzhang made another major adjustment and added some new contents. At this point, the clothing system of the Ming Dynasty basically took shape, and its strict regulations and wide scope can be said to be unprecedented.

The reason why Zhu Yuanzhang's clothing system is painstakingly explained here is that these complicated and harsh rules have built a hierarchical political system in the early Ming Dynasty and an orderly and noble clothing culture atmosphere: women's clothing all over the country is customized. Hong Wushi's law and discipline are strict, and people follow the painting method. [7] Daming has its own system, not only agriculture, but also industry and commerce. Although the official county is Chengjun, I dare not take it (Confucianism) unless I was born in the right way. [8]

Its casual clothes, from official clothes to younger generations, all wear square kerchiefs and various colorful flowers, plain silk, tulle and satin robes. Elegant, winter with big velvet cocoon silk, summer with fine kudzu, Shu Ren dare not work; It's simple. In winter, purple fine cloth or white cloth is used as robes, which Li people dare not do ... It has a rich market and also sells gauze, but the color will be blue and black, and they dare not be new. [ 1]

The outstanding characteristics of this cultural atmosphere are monotony, conservatism, formality and rigidity, and the "simplicity into elegance" and "overstepping the boundaries" of costumes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty largely broke the moral order of etiquette since the early Ming Dynasty, which is its most significant social significance.

Since the middle of Ming dynasty, with the prosperity of commodity economy, wealthy businessmen are no longer willing to be bound by etiquette system, and are willing to spend a lot of money for their own wealth, thus driving the evolution of the whole social fashion. This trend originated from the periods of Chenghua (1465- 1487) and Hongzhi (1488- 1505). For example, in Anlufu, Hubei Province before Chenghua, "vulgar people lack machinery" and "clothes are not decorated with colorful clothes".

Before Chenghua, Xinchang County, Zhejiang Province, people, rich or poor, obeyed the state system and wore flat towels, straight dresses, leather boots and extremely frugal shoes. After the gradual luxury, scholars, scholars and people who know a little about Confucianism are also well dressed, rich children or arrogant and extravagant. "[10]. "Gorgeous clothes, ornaments of golden beads" have appeared in other places to varying degrees [1 1]. However, at that time, the commodity economy was not developed, the traditional way of life was still dominant, and the novelty of a few people had not caused a strong shock to the whole social fashion. As the beginning of a new era of commodity economy, or the change of customs with the nature of changing the traditional social lifestyle, it began in the years of Zhengde (1506- 152 1) and Jiajing (1522- 1566) and entered the Qing Dynasty. After recuperation in the early Qing Dynasty, "Kanggan Shi Sheng" relapsed.

As early as Hong and Zheng and Li Ke gave it to (? -1508) pointed out in Shanghai: "Chinese and foreign courtiers' homes are gorgeous and luxurious, which set each other off, and the cost of borrowing is used to it ... jewelry is abused, prostitutes are better than brocade, ordinary bachelors use embroidered socks, and craftsmen are free to make them, which is extremely fearless. Although the court has repeatedly banned it, the people have been free to use it. " [12] The famous writer Li Mengyang (1473- 1530) also said, "Today's merchant houses are rich in clothes and embroidery ... and rich in princes." [13] Yangzhou businessmen are rich in capital, and "they are all rich in palaces, luxuriously dressed, extravagant in eating and drinking, and decorated with horses to divide the wealth." [14] Gu Jieyuan (1565- 1628), a famous scholar, also summed up the changes of Nanjing fashion with his personal experience: "Before Jia Zheng, Du Nan's style was thick and mellow ... The military and civilians used to be afraid of officials and humble, but there were few things to decorate the emperor's clothes. It is common for women to live in seclusion, entertain guests and weave cloth, but there are few things to renew their frontier, but people who intend to act as prostitutes, make friends and go out to give alms are just like men. [15] However, the changes after the reign of Emperor Zheng and Emperor Jia are like the rapid changes of the wind and cloud. He borrowed a sentence from Wang Fu in the Eastern Han Dynasty to explain: "Today, the nobles in the capital, clothes, ornaments, cars, ornaments and houses are all over the imperial system, which is very arrogant. "Furthermore, I feel that" the hospitality in Beijing has always been like this recently, leaving behind a wind of extravagance, with more rich households than gentry "[16]. A small town like Boping County, east of Lianshan Mountain, is also "between Zhengde and Jiajing, but the ancient customs are gradually disappearing ... There are more hats, shoes and gauze skirts for vendors and servants on the street" [17]. Before Zheng De and Jiajing, Yuncheng people were honest and honest, and easy to manage. However, since then, they have been "extravagant, people are scholars, scholars are doctors ... Xu Liren is also extravagant, and their daily meals are prepared for municipal government officials" [18]. In Yongfeng County, Jiangxi Province, in the past, "men were only rich in silk cloth, and the rich wore clothes, so they were called shirts, scholars were not officials, and officials were not allowed to use silk, and women's clothes were rich and poor." However, in the middle of Jiajing, "there were many people who squandered their wealth on holidays" [19]. At the same time, Liuhe County in South Zhili is also "all high hats and big sleeves, and shoes are not equal." Women's high-bun long dresses and short skirts, pearl jewelry accessories are quite luxurious "[20]. Hongzhi and Zheng De in Nantong "still have a pragmatic tendency. Scholars practice clothes at home and wear cloth crowns, that is, those born in the name of literature March in the city in white robes, while ordinary people use kudzu vine and Taicang natural cloth to protect themselves. These two are moderate in price and average in quality, so people use them, so their customs are frugal and frivolous. "However, in Wanli," said the middle school children, Luo Qi is not precious. "As for mediocrity and cheapness, you are still wearing a square scarf, and you don't know how to ban it. He is an excellent servant living a poor life, and so are those who sell things and take the right path, but people don't think there is any difference. "[2 1]. In many parts of the country, there has been a phenomenon of "no silk, no clothes, no gold thread, no towel, no clouds and no shoes" [22]: in Nanzhi Songjiang, "slaves strive for glory", "women are prostitutes" and "slaves use three official shoes, which is no different from officials" [23]; Henan Neiqiu "the door is quick and the soap is nothing more than a cloud shoe, and the doctor is a square towel" [24]; In Fu 'an, Fujian, "square kerchiefs are all over the road, scholar-officials and famous vessels are stolen by the village rich, and butchers and slaves also have white-collar relations" [25] ... Looking back at the historical records in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, there are many similar cases, so Zhang Han (1513-15998), who served as the official minister in Wanli, "people's feelings. Although it is outside the system, I don't know how to avoid it. " [7] accurately and clearly reflected the mentality of people in clothing at that time, and became an undisclosed statement for modern people to study the cultural characteristics of clothing in the middle and late Ming Dynasty.

This blatant deviation from etiquette has become a social trend of "people are not sages, to err is human", which is not only caused by wealthy businessmen, but also by the comparison and competition of the literati class with special status. At that time, people attributed the change of social lifestyle to "rich but expensive room, extravagant and lewd", [23] "generally began in the city, then in the suburbs, from well-dressed families, and then to the city" [26]. For example, Zhang (1525- 1582), the first assistant of the cabinet, is determined to reform politically, but extremely extravagant in life. "He likes luxury, his clothes will be delicious and dazzling, and he will make progress sooner or later ... and he will change his habits for a while, and he will be more extravagant." Xu Yupu, minister of the Ministry of Industry, said: "When every guest arrives, he must first investigate what color he is wearing, and then put on clothes to make a pair. They are a perfect match, without any mistakes "[27]. Under the guidance of this kind of values, the general public also competed for luxury, such as "obedience is irregular, wedding banquets are unruly, and the White House is extravagant" [28], which eventually became the fashion of a generation and launched a fierce impact on the etiquette and moral order determined in the early Ming Dynasty.

Zhu Yuanzhang once made clear regulations on the clothing and jewelry styles of officials and people all over the country, but the clothing in the middle and late Ming Dynasty was new and unpredictable, which greatly broke the feudal trap. See below for details.

Zhu Yuanzhang once prohibited officials and the public from using dragon and phoenix patterns in their clothes. The offender said, "One hundred sticks each for the government and the people, only three years; There were 100 craftsmen, and even when they were young, they went to Beijing and were employed as bureau craftsmen "[6] (In March of the eighth year of Hongwu, Liao Yongzhong, Duke of Deqing, who was" both wise and brave "and made outstanding achievements in military service, was even executed for arrogating dragon and phoenix patterns). The python with a cool dragon robe (missing a claw) is only eligible to be worn by cabinet ministers rewarded by the emperor, while the jade belt can only be enjoyed by senior officials with more than three products. Offenders will break it with dragon and phoenix patterns. However, in the late Ming Dynasty, almost ten thousand people banned those who wore pythons and waist jade, while those with more than ten thousand households in Chen Wu were waist gold, not less than ten thousand people. As for the edge handsome riding, taking merits and rewards, I don't know how many people have jade waist [29], and even the small eight-product officials are "arrogant and arrogant" [30]. At that time, there were three kinds of people who summed up that "there is no equal person in clothing in the world": one is to respect others, such as riding a rider without eight sesame officials, but "all wearing clothes, wearing gold belts and wearing brown"; According to the truth, the son attached to the horse should be an ordinary person, but "his clothes are like guards and his four claws are like dragons." The second is the eunuch, who "wears clothes like pythons and bullfighting clothes, and is called' grass beast'. The golden ball shakes the whip, and no one dares to ask "; Wang Fu vowed, "Not surprisingly, I was also given a jade waist by a python, and I returned the banquet with caress." The third one is a woman, "as low as a long class, as filthy as a teaching workshop, with his wife going out, wearing beads and being embroidered, all of them are Bai Ze, Kirin, flying fish and sitting pythons", [3 1], which is no different from the embroidery made by the Duke.

In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu (139 1), Zhu Yuanzhang stipulated that the official uniform of officials of civil and military affairs, the regiment shirt, was decorated with gold and silver colored lines on the front and back, so it was called "Buzi", hence the name "Bufu" to indicate the level of rank. Among them, Gong, Hou, Bo, Xu Embroidered Qilin and Bai Ze (legendary beasts who can speak well and understand the feelings of all things), civil servants embroidered a crane, a golden pheasant strolled, a peacock touched the ground, a quail ate grass, and a magpie did not flow. As for the musicians in the workshop,

Its status is despicable, so it can only wear a blue scarf, which is red and green, and a green headscarf in an ordinary suit, "to distinguish it from literati." Because "those who approach Mexico are black", officials in Jiao Fang are also regarded as "clean". However, this strict hierarchical system opened a big gap in the late Ming Dynasty. "The official who embroidered and supplemented the text is round, but it is actually square, just like a courtier, just like a gentleman" [32], and even the costume of a musician is "the crown of a saint, just like a hundred officials, among courtiers" [33]. Jiao Fang prostitutes completely broke through the ban of only wearing first-class clothes, "advocating first-class clothes for the luxury of the nobles" [34], which led the fashion trend and the new system, and the world rushed to follow suit: "Hongzhi, at the beginning, was ashamed of being a prostitute, and since Liu Changshi paid more attention to the effect, he gradually followed suit, and the literati couldn't stop. It is best to be a prostitute in recent times, I can't say for sure. " [35] "Nanqu clothes and makeup bundles, four directions take shape", especially the costumes of famous prostitutes in Qinhuai, which are called "contemporary makeup" [36], are more imitated by the world. Originally, the untouchables who could only "wear a bright crown and make a fool of themselves" have now become the leaders of fashion trends, which was unexpected by meat eaters in the early Ming Dynasty.

Zhu Yuanzhang once strictly stipulated that ordinary people can only "wear light colors" and are not allowed to wear glitter and jewelry. But by the end of the Ming dynasty, the red dress "thought it was a spy, even brocade, even pearls and jade ... As for the end of the Ming dynasty, the bear stone house did not embroider red clothes and the maid did not wear red" [37]. It has become a common phenomenon that men wear brocade and women adorn gold beads [7], and national laws and regulations have been ignored. "Towel clothing violates the prohibition of the system and is regarded as embarrassment" [38]. The power constraint of the Ming government became weak in the tide of commodity economy, and the feudal hierarchy was completely disrupted, which was the most significant social significance contained in the clothing changes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty.

Second, the pursuit of fashion changes.

Generally speaking, the changes of costumes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty were from vulgar and simple to noble and gorgeous, from light and monotonous to bright and complicated, from regular and rigid to novel and complicated, and the transition period was short, which was the most colorful development period in the history of ancient Chinese costumes.

Take Taikang County of Henan Province as an example. "At the beginning of the country, there were seven pleats in the front and eight pleats in the back, and Hongzhi had many short pleats; Zheng De was a third shorter at the beginning and a third longer at the bottom, and the scholar stopped in the middle. The crown is flat and more than a foot high, and the scholar does not lose * * inches; Jiajing's first dress is like the length of Hong, like the short of Hong. The street juvenile hat is long and pointed, and the vulgar cloud drum hat. During Hongzhi's reign, women's dresses only covered the waist of the skirt, and rich people used silk and silk, woven gold sleeves, and skirts with gold knees, with a bun more than an inch high; Between Zheng De and Germany, clothes are getting bigger and bigger, skirts are getting more and more pleated, shirts are made of gold only, and buns are getting higher and higher; At the beginning of Jiajing, the clothes were knee-length, the skirt was short and pleated, and the bun was as high as an official hat. All of them were silk tires, six or seven inches high, and the mouth circumference was more than two or three inches [39]. At the same time, in Jianning County, Fujian Province, "men's ornaments are covered with cages and hats, and their clothes and shoes are all silk, which changes from time to time; Women decorate themselves with gorgeous clothes, covered with pearls and gold, and move like a lady "[40].

In the early years of Wanli, Tongzhou, South Zhili, "clothes are long, skirts are wide, collars are wide, waists are thin, and the number is abrupt." [2 1]. Especially Nanjing, a metropolis in the southeast, is very prominent in this respect, and it is "a strange system, and the sun does not fall, and the moon is new." Only a small turban has items such as Han towel, Jin towel, Tang towel, Zhuge towel, towel, Dongpo towel, Yangming towel, Jiuhua towel, Yutai towel, Xiaoyao towel, Huayang towel, towel and Yong towel, while the texture includes hat, weft, lacquered yarn, ponytail yarn, Longlin yarn and other varieties. "Even ponytail is woven as a towel, and there are wrinkles. In the past, there were only cloud shoes and flat shoes. In Wanli, there were styles such as square head, short face, shoes, arhat skin and monk shoes. " Its follow-up service is shallow, and the color is red, purple, yellow and green when delayed. "[4 1]. And Fan Lian (1540-? From my personal experience, it is true and credible to record the changes of Songjiang's clothing. It seems that it is even higher than Nanjing in its pursuit of fashion: Yu Shi is a student, and he sees that his peers are wearing bridge wool towels, Spring Garden is wearing gold thread towels, and gentry is wearing Zhongjing towels. From then on, I found it very annoying, and it was easy to be vulgar and plain, so it became a Tang towel, a towel, a Han towel and a square towel. Since (14th year of Wanli, 1586), people have started to use non-Tang Fei Jin towels ... now there are ponytail towels and Gaochun towels. Men's clothes, when given a weak crown, are pleated with a thin skirt. Old people's clothes are long and short, and those that are short and long are easy to be even when viewed from the back. The style is the clothes worn early, warm in winter and cool in summer, covered with Hu. Later, it was changed to Yangming clothing, 18 bachelor's clothing and 24 air clothing, all of which were based on practice and were rare. Since the Dragon and Wan Dynasties, Taoist robes have been used, while the ancients used Yangming clothes. This is because the heart was different and the ancient times were not good. Twill and silk patterns, which were first used in Song brocade, then used in Tang Hanjin and Jin brocade, are all thousand millet and hibiscus brocade with four heads, and they are all considered disgusting. Luo was warm at first, surrounded by water. Now, the ponytail is used, and the water surrounding the ponytail is gone. Other yarns and silk are easier to count. [23]

The scarf in Beijing mentioned here, that is, Central Jing Guan, was worn by Yan Juguan, a specific official in the seventh year of Jiajing (1528), while the imperial academy, imperial academy and People's Offices that officials of provinces, states and counties are qualified to use are limited to military attaché s above the commander in chief, and others are not allowed to abuse it. However, "in the last years of Jiajing, even in the Long and Wan Dynasties, there were deep clothing belts such as loyalty, loyalty and Jinshi, and only those who were determined to use them ... there was a ban at home, and the gentry didn't know the police at all" [42]. Guangping Mansion in North Zhili is also a "loyal and quiet system, and the third-class officials such as Zaliu, Una, Youchuan and Cang are all arrogant. Confucian scholars admire its beauty and call it Lingyun Towel" [34]. As for the tile cage horse hat mentioned above, it is also called corrugated hat or corrugated horse hat, which is woven with horse oxtail. Fan Lian also recorded its evolution in Songjiang area: "Corrugated horse hat was worn only by workers in the early years of Jiajing, but it was used by the rich twenty years ago, but it was only seen once or twice, and the price was very expensive ... Since Wanli, it has been used by both rich and poor, and the price is also very high. [23] In the middle of Wanli, corrugated hats in Ningxian County, Jianghai County, Zhejiang Province "were also used by beggars, but they were only worth one or two yuan" [43], which gradually became popular.

In this fashion-chasing trend, there are three cultural phenomena worthy of a special book: one is the regional center. Wuzhong district, represented by Suzhou, has the most fashionable clothes because of its unique economic conditions, which has attracted the attention of surrounding areas and even all over the country, thus becoming the source of fashion communication. At that time, people said that Suzhou was "good at advancing and retreating at sea. The Sioux people think that elegance is elegant in all directions and vulgarity is vulgar "[44]; "Wu vulgar luxury, QiLe, panoramic view of human feelings. Wu is modest and flashy, thinking that it is not the same ... the four sides value military power, while Wu is obedient [45], so that there is a saying that "Wu vulgar luxury is the best in the world." This regional diffusion played a subtle role in the changes of costumes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, which prompted the whole society to be keen on wearing and deliberately dressing up, and pushed the ancient Chinese costume culture to a brand-new stage.

Second, the celebrity effect. Ancient celebrities are mostly romantic and elegant literati, who are knowledgeable and have a special identity and status. They often try their best to pursue more material and spiritual enjoyment, so it is easy to arouse the admiration of ordinary citizens. For example, the famous writer Chen Jiru (1558- 1639, Mei Gong) once did something unconventional, saying that "everything should be brought forth through the old and people should follow suit". The headscarf he made and wore was called "Meigong towel" by people at that time [46]. Dong Qichang (1555- 1636), a famous painter and calligrapher, put on a robe made of Songjiang purple cloth in a unique way under the situation that clothing styles are changing with each passing day. This kind of clothes was originally a local "mourning dress", but because he was a celebrity, people not only didn't feel strange, but began to imitate it, which led to "becoming a national custom in January". This imitation of celebrities also promoted the constant renovation and refinement of costumes in the late Ming Dynasty.

Third, the female advantage. In ancient times, due to relatively few social activities, women generally had few opportunities to get ahead, and the feudal government often failed to restrain them, which made women's clothing have natural advantages, and they often ignored economic strength and were vain. It is said that "customs are extravagant, especially for women, and the family is only responsible for stones." I have traded in the forefront of renewal, and I have not squandered it, so it is particularly difficult to start a business first "[48]. "Men can be forbidden outside and women can be forbidden inside, so it is particularly difficult to change customs. It turned out that it started from the house of the gentry, and the ladies-in-waiting and concubines worked hard, and went to relatives' homes to sleep off and catch up with their neighbors.

Rich people were surprised at the beginning of creation, and then the past was beautiful. Those who get it are not arrogant and impetuous, and those who are uneasy are ashamed. Or the wealth of the people, but not enough; Or the era of death, the system of a petticoat is nothing more than that, and then it becomes a wind, almost unrecoverable "[37]. "This kind of ethos is very contagious, from south to north.

In Qin Long, North Zhili, "the gentry praised Hanfu, and the rural women were also Chinese ornaments" [49]. Nanjing women's clothing, "the first is Zhaiguan, and the seven products are taken by Mingmu, which is called vice in ancient times, also known as" step shake ". Its uniform: wear it in the hair, or use gold and silver silk, or tie a ponytail, or use wool; A hat has a crown, a bun, a cloud bun, or a' fake bun' "[50]. Clothing programs are also difficult to stick to the rules and will be eliminated after a long time. In the early years of Wanli, it changed for more than ten years, and in the middle of Wanli, it changed for two or three years. "The size of the first bun, the width of the costume, the style of the bud, the color of the rendering, the decoration of the temples, and the workmanship of the shoes are all changing." [5638+]

As for the change of Songjiang women's clothing, it is even more complicated. Fan Lian records that in the early years of Qin Long, women's hair bun was still worn by officials, with precious flowers on the top, called plucking the heart, temples on both sides, and then the crown was inserted upside down. Ears are inlaid with treasures, young people use wooden crutches, decorate with checkered patterns, and wear skirts and tops with big sleeves. Dig out the pointed steamed bun and goose heart steamed bun from the back, and gradually get better and better, and decorate them in front, all of which are installed in Shang Ya. Comb your hair like a man's straight hair, without dividing it. Butterflies are hung backwards, also known as ponytails, with one or two golden plums inserted next to them, a golden lantern hairpin in front and two or three pairs of passionflowers on both sides. In the hair bundle, you use the rhinoceros Hosta, cross one or two branches, then roll a lotus flower with Diancui, and add a Cui Hua flower next to it, which is as big as the palm of your hand. Ears are inlaid with gold and jade cloves, and the clothes are three-necked and narrow sleeves, which are more than three feet long. For example, men wear pleats, revealing only two or three inches of skirts. Plum striped skirts and over-the-knee pants were carved at first, still in their true colors, still painted, embroidered or pushed, and recently they were embroidered in red and green, such as lotus skirts, while cloaks and casual clothes were gone. Baotou is used by people of all ages After ten years of Wanli, Ma Zongtou's headband was used in summer, but now it's wrapped in gauze for spring and autumn. At first, it was very wide, but now it's getting narrower and narrower ... Baotou can't tie its hair, and the fine black horse net towel is another illusion, which is convenient for anyone who hears the wind. [23]

Its unique shape, various names and rapid changes are no less than those of modern commodity society, and the fashion of chasing fashion in the middle and late Ming Dynasty can be seen here.

Songjiang women's clothing is masculine, which reflects the social phenomenon of no difference between men and women's clothing in the middle and late Ming Dynasty. In line with this, there is a trend of feminization of men's wear in some places: "In the last years of Jiajing, even in the Long and Wan Dynasties ... the sons of the rich and the rich wore large types of women's makeup, and the styles of towels were strange and difficult to distinguish." [42] Tongxiang County, Zhejiang Province, "From Ding You (twenty-five years of Wanli, 1597) to Ding Wei (thirty-five years of Wanli, 1607), if all previous dynasties were good at wearing silk crepe lakes, women were dyed into large categories" and "all those born and bred in southeast counties wore red and purple". Therefore, Mr. Dong Bing changed the Tang poetry to ridicule and said, "Those who came to the battlements yesterday and came back with tears in their eyes and women's clothes were all scholars." [52] When Chongzhen was in Wucheng County, Zhejiang Province, there was also quite a "young people took red and purple as their strange clothes" [53]. This kind of behavior of "being tired of novelty and being bright" shows that people's pursuit of fashionable fashion reached the extreme at that time. They are no longer just satisfied with the replacement of clothing styles and gorgeous materials, but try their best to seek more novel and weird stimuli. Even the remote Hongya county in Sichuan is "women like to wear heavy makeup, their hair is quite careless, their sleeves are wide and long, and their shirts mop the floor;" The men were crowned with square kerchiefs, and the rest wore ribbed hats. Most people in the market use linen for it, which is called cool hat, just like mourning hat. [53], although bizarre, is regarded as fashion. In Huzhou, Zhejiang Province, "In the past, rich women only paid a lot of money for makeup, but now they are still ingenious, but Jinbao doesn't need it, so they don't need pearls and green corals" [54], which is unconventional and unique.

Nanjing nun, although hiding in an empty door, is concerned with the world of mortals. "Clothing is a continuation of the front edge, decorated with fragrant tassels and musk deer belts" [55] is also influenced by the secular world, which just fulfilled the exclamation of the people at that time: "The customs are touching and awesome!" [42]

Because the social atmosphere generally pays attention to dressing up, some citizens who are not rich in economic strength are also eager for it, but they are still vain. Hangzhou residents "eat in different months, eat in different years, regardless of the rich and the poor, facing each other is poor, strong decoration, arrogance, for wealth" [7]. Even those who pretend to be Qing. It is bound to follow the fashion: "The cloth robe is a Confucian suit, and it has been humble since 1998. The poor must wear silk-colored clothes, which is called frivolous and gorgeous. The wicked will look for old clothes from the store, put on the new system, and sit with the luxurious childe ... Shanghai students must wear velvet robes in winter and play Ma Zongbu's green umbrella in summer, although they are as poor as Dan. It's good for you to cover your sweater and towel with ten handfuls of wheat. " [23] Under the guidance of this fashion, if someone can't keep up with the trend of the times, they will be despised by others: "If you don't wear clothes and go to the villagers' meeting without literary talent, the villagers will snicker and not sit in their seats." [2 1] This forces people to quickly change their consumption concepts and values, change their inherent lifestyles, and actively participate in the trend of the times.

Third, the secularity of aesthetic taste.

Aesthetic taste is the embodiment of human spirit. The patterns and colors of any clothing are not only simple scientific and technological means, but always contain certain cultural implications. From the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, ancient Chinese costumes showed a national style combining symbolic colors and implied patterns. Before the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the clothing patterns mainly simulated natural scenery, and the most common ones were clouds, flowers and birds, geometric patterns, tangled flowers and so on, which reflected the implicit aesthetic taste of the literati class.

This tranquil and tranquil pastoral mood was violently impacted in the middle and late Ming Dynasty. Clothing in the middle and late Ming Dynasty is the product of commodity economy, which inevitably reflects the unique aesthetic taste of the emerging citizen class and has obvious secularity.

During this period, the clothing patterns were bright and colorful, and the composition tended to be luxurious and complicated. Several patterns with different shapes are put together, forming many fixed patterns with rich meanings, which directly shows the world's yearning and pursuit of wealth and fame.

For example, painting hibiscus, osmanthus and evergreen together is called "rich Millennium"; Draw bats and clouds together, which is called "heavenly blessing"; Draw egrets and hibiscus together, called "All the way to glory"; Draw horses, bees and apes together, which is called "sealing Hou at once"; Painting three halberds in a vase is called "three-level company"; Goldfish with begonia is called "happiness from now on"; Carp with lotus is called "more and more year by year"; Ears of wheat, bees and lanterns are put together, which is called "the harvest of five grains". Wait, the list goes on. These designs are ingenious, meaningful and worthy of the name. They turn all the hopes for peace and loyalty accumulated in the hearts of ancient people in China into beautiful and vivid designs, and even illiterate people can understand the meaning and properly express their sustenance and feelings [56].

Fourth, the commercialization of clothing production.

/kloc-In the middle of the Ming Dynasty in the 6th century, although the self-sufficient natural economy was still dominant, with the improvement of productivity and the change of production structure, the commodity economy advanced by leaps and bounds, and all social production departments became more commercialized. As far as clothing production is concerned, all links from the planting of raw materials to the spinning of silk and cotton, as well as the supply and marketing of finished products are branded with commodity economy.

Before the Ming Dynasty, the traditional clothing materials in China were silk and hemp, which were used by the upper class and the lower class respectively. The cotton planting industry promoted since the Song and Yuan Dynasties, especially since the early Ming Dynasty, tended to flourish in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, "all over the world, no land is suitable for both the north and the south, and people are rich and poor" [57]. Because cotton cloth has the advantages of high output, easy spinning, low cost, good warmth retention, strong durability, and simple printing, dyeing and sewing, it has quickly become the most important clothing raw material. Small farmers in Songjiang have become more and more successful in weaving. Tens of thousands of cotton pieces have been put into the market, becoming the center of the national cotton textile industry, known as "clothes all over the world"; Residents in Jiashan County, Zhejiang Province "burn fat at night, men and women stay up all night" to spin cotton yarn, "you can get four or five taels of yarn every day", and the trickle has also merged into a huge amount, so there is a rumor that "Songjiang cloth can't be bought, but Tang Wei yarn can't be received". However, the local cotton is far from meeting the production needs. Most farmland in Shandong and Henan are planted with cotton to provide raw materials for Jiangnan. There is a saying that "zhongzhou fertile soil, half planting and half cotton, cotton belongs to vendors" [59], which shows that all its products have been put on the market and the degree of commercialization is very deep. The raw materials of clothing sold in Jiangxi Lead Mountain Market are Futian Yuanbu, Zhejiang Hu Si and Brocade, Huguang Luotian Cloth, Jiaxing Xitang Cloth, Suzhou Qing, Songjiang, Nanjing Qing, Guazhou Qing, Lianqing, Red and Green Cloth, Songjiang Dashuo Cloth and Xiao Zhong Suobu. Huguang Xiaogan cloth, Linjiang cloth, Xinyang cloth, Dingtao cloth, Fuqing original cloth, Anhai original cloth, Jiyang original cloth, burlap cloth, Dingtao cloth, Fuqing original cloth, Anhai original cloth, Jiyang cloth, burlap cloth, bookstore original cloth, lacquer cloth, big brush cloth, small brush cloth, grid cloth, Jinxi original cloth, cotton yarn, net flower and children's cloth. Created at the end of Jiajing and the beginning of Wanli, the picture shows that there are not only raw materials such as cloth, satin and fur, but also finished products such as clothes, scarves, boots and socks for sale in many stalls in Beijing.

The map of Fan Hui, Du Nan, which is now in the Museum of Chinese History and signed by his biological father Chou Ying, also shows that a large number of towels, hats, boots and shoes were made in Nanjing in the late Ming Dynasty.