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Articles on Chinese wine culture
Brief introduction of wine culture

China is an ancient civilization in the Li Zhuo world, and China is the hometown of wine. In the 5,000-year history of the Chinese nation, wine and wine culture have always occupied an important position. Wine is a special kind of food, which belongs to the material, but it has also been integrated into people's spiritual life. As a special cultural form, wine culture has its unique position in China traditional culture. In the history of civilization for thousands of years, wine has almost penetrated into all fields of social life. First of all, China is a country with agriculture as the mainstay, so all political and economic activities are based on agricultural development. Most of the wines in China are brewed from grain, and wine is closely linked with agriculture and becomes a part of agricultural economy. The prosperity of grain production is a barometer of the rise and fall of wine industry. According to the grain harvest, the rulers of various dynasties regulated the production of wine by issuing or opening bans, thus ensuring the people's food. Kang Yong Shi Sheng cultural communication

China is the kingdom of wine. Wine has various shapes and colors; Variety and output rank first in the world. China is also a paradise for drinkers. Regardless of north and south, regardless of men, women and children, regardless of nationality. Drinking has been going on for several years. China is the most prosperous place of wine culture, and the significance of drinking is far more than physical consumption and pleasure. On many occasions, as a cultural symbol and a cultural consumption, it expresses a etiquette, an atmosphere, an interest and a mentality. Wine and poetry have always been inextricably linked. Not only that, many famous wines in China not only give people beautiful enjoyment, but also give people beautiful enlightenment and inspiration; The development of each famous wine contains the exploration and struggle of generations of workers and their heroic dedication. Therefore, the spirit of famous wine is closely related to national pride and fearless spirit. This is the spirit of the Chinese nation! It is equal to the "Dionysus" promoted in Europe. It seems that with famous wines, China catering can be sublimated into a global catering culture.

As an objective substance in the world, wine is a changeable spirit, hot as fire and cold as ice; It is lingering like a dream, vicious as a demon, soft as brocade and sharp as a steel knife; It is ubiquitous and powerful. Admirable and should be killed. It can make people transcend broadmindedness, brilliance and debauchery; It can make people forget the pain, sadness and troubles in the world and soar in absolute freedom; It can also make people recklessly and bravely sink to the bottom of the abyss, make people throw away their masks, reveal their true colors and tell the truth.

Wine, in the long history of human culture, is not only an objective material existence, but also a cultural symbol, that is, a symbol of Dionysian spirit.

In China, Dionysian spirit originated from Taoist philosophy. Zhuang Zhou advocated the unity of things and me, the unity of heaven and man, and the unity of life and death. Zhuang Zhou sang the song of absolute freedom, advocating "wandering things", "wandering around the world" and "land without things". Zhuangzi would rather be a free turtle shaking his head in a mud pond than a bound swift horse. The essence of China's Dionysian spirit lies in pursuing absolute freedom and forgetting the benefits of life and death, honor and disgrace.

There are striking similarities between world cultural phenomena. Dionysus, the god of grape cultivation and wine making, is the symbol of Dionysus in the west. In ancient Greek tragedies, the Dionysian spirit in the west rose to the theoretical level and was sublimated by the philosophy of German philosopher Nietzsche. Nietzsche believes that Dionysian spirit is a symbol of emotional catharsis, a survival experience of abandoning the traditional bondage and returning to the original state, and human beings have gained great pleasure in life in the desperate and painful cry of disappearing the unity of individuals and the world.

In the kingdom of literature and art, Dionysian spirit is ubiquitous, which has a great and far-reaching influence on literary artists and their masterpieces. Because freedom, art and beauty are trinity, art is born of freedom and beauty is born of art.

The artistic freedom gained by drunkenness is an important way for China ancient artists to get rid of bondage and gain artistic creativity. Liu Ling, a famous figure in Wei and Jin Dynasties and the first "alcoholic", said in Ode to Wine Virtue: "There is a gentleman who takes heaven and earth as the sky, ten thousand periods as a moment, the sun and the moon as a moment, and eight droughts as the DPRK." "The curtain is on the ground, which means so." "I was drunk, but I suddenly woke up. If you don't listen to thunder, you won't see the mountain shape. I can't feel the feeling of cutting muscles in cold weather and summer. Looking down on everything, it is like Jianghan duckweed. " This "ultimate human" state is a typical embodiment of China's Dionysian spirit.

"Li Bai has hundreds of poems about fighting wine. Chang' an went to sleep in a restaurant, but the son of heaven didn't get on the boat and claimed to be Brewmaster. " (Du Fu's Song of Drinking Eight Immortals) "Being drunk is a guest, and poetry becomes a god." (Du Fu's "Poem of Self-management") "Give yourself what you want, and make a poem of wine." (Su Shi's Drinking with Tao Yuanming) "A cup of unfinished poetry has been completed, and the poetry day is amazing." (Biography of Yang Wanli going to Wanhua River Valley in February after the Ninth Festival). Zhang Yuannian, a political poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, said: "Flowers fly after the rain, and the meaning of drunkenness is not in wine. "In the history of China's poetry, examples of drunken poems handed down from generation to generation abound.

Not only poetry, but also the Dionysian spirit is more vivid in the paintings and artistic calligraphy unique to China culture. Among the painters, Zheng Banqiao's calligraphy and painting are not easy to get, and those who seek them treat each other with dog meat and wine, while those who seek calligraphy and painting can get what they want. Zheng Banqiao also knew the painter's tricks, but he couldn't resist the temptation of wine and dog meat, so he had to write a poem to laugh at himself: "Look at the moon, you might as well go all out, only hate the wine coming late. Laugh at him and ask for a book, and ask his husband to get drunk. " Wu Daozi, the painter of The Wind in Five Dynasties, must get drunk before painting, and then start painting when he is drunk. Huang in Yuan Sijia is also "too drunk to draw". Wang Xizhi, a "book saint", wrote the Preface to the Lanting Pavilion when he was drunk, saying that he was "charming, extremely healthy and unparalleled", but when he woke up, he "read dozens of books, but failed to reach it". Li Bai wrote Huai Su's "Drunk Monk": "My teacher was drunk and slept in bed, sweeping thousands of copies in a moment. Flying flowers and showers are shocking, falling flowers and flying snow. " Huai Su was drunk and splashed ink, just to keep his "self-narrative post" that ghosts and gods admired. Zhang Xu, the sage of the grass, wrote "every drunk calls for madness", so he has his "four ancient poems".

The origin of wine

Tiandao winemaking theory

Since ancient times, the ancestors of China people have said that wine is made by the "wine star" in the sky. In the Book of Jin, there is a record about the constellation of wine flags: "In the right corner of Xuanyuan, there is a three-star wine flag, a wine official flag and a main banquet." Xuanyuan, the ancient name of China, has seventeen stars, twelve of which belong to Leo. The wine flag has three stars, arranged in a "one" shape, next to Liu Su on the 28th night, a star entering the south. On a clear night, search the sky carefully against the star map. Xuanyuan XIV in Leo and Xingyi in Ophiuchus are very bright and easy to find, while Samsung, the wine flag, is difficult to be recognized by the naked eye because its brightness is too small or too far away.

The discovery of Jiuqixing was first seen in Zhou Li, which has a history of nearly 3,000 years. Twenty-eight Nights of Honesty, which began in Yin and was established in Zhou, is one of the great discoveries of ancient astronomy in China. It was a miracle that these not-so-bright "Nine Seven Stars" were observed in the vast starry sky of Hanzhong at that time, and they were named, leaving various records and legends about the Nine Seven Stars.

"Generally speaking, there are two kinds of ancient wines: one is colored wine made of fruit grains, and the other is distilled wine. Colored wine originated in ancient times. According to Shennong Materia Medica, wine originated in ancient times and Shennong era. Chen Qirong of Eight Kinds of World Books (revised edition) said: "From the beginning of Yidi, the wine mash changed into five flavors, and Shao Kang (Kang) made wine. "Yi di and Shao Kang are both summer people. That is, there was wine in the Xia Dynasty. I think this wine is probably made of fruits and flowers, not grains. Cereal wine should start after the agricultural boom. Lu Ruofan's Tale of Western Guangdong has the following records about the wine of fruits, flowers and trees:

There are many apes in the mountains of Pingle and other provinces, and they are good at picking flowers and making wine. The woodcutter gets his nest in the mountains, and his wine is like stones, and the smell of drinking is abnormal, so it is called ape wine.

If this record is true, it is possible for our ancestors to pick flowers and make wine in the lush life of Huaguoshan. The wine made from grains should start from yin. It has been recognized by most scholars that the agricultural production in Yin period was prosperous. Since agricultural products are abundant, it is inevitable to make wine. But the Yin people died of alcoholism, which is recorded in the history books. (Excerpted from Huang Xianfan's A Preliminary Study on the Interpretation of Ancient Books, Guangxi Normal University Press, July 2004,No. 1 Edition)

Ape brewing theory

A Supplement to National History written by Li Zhao in the Tang Dynasty has a wonderful record of how humans catch clever apes.

Apes are very alert animals. They live in the deep mountains and wild forests, and their whereabouts are uncertain, making it difficult to catch them. After careful observation, people found that apes were "addicted to alcohol." Therefore, people put sweet and rich wine in places where apes haunt. When the ape smells the fragrance, he lingers in front of the wine jar first, and then carefully dips in the wine and sucks it. After a long time, I finally could not stand the temptation of wine and drank it until I was caught as drunk as a fiddler. This method of catching apes is not unique to China. People in Southeast Asia and indigenous people in Africa also use similar methods to catch apes or gorillas.

Apes not only drink, but also "make wine", which is recorded in Chinese history books. Li, a scholar in Qing Dynasty, said in his works: "There are many apes in Qiongzhou ... people who taste ape wine in the depths of rocks. Gai ape wine takes rice and flowers as raw materials, with a capacity of five or six liters, 160 pieces. It tastes the hottest, but it is extremely rare. " Record; A note novel in the Qing Dynasty also said: "There are many apes in the mountains of Pingle and other provinces in western Guangdong, and they are good at picking flowers and making wine. The woodcutter has a nest in the mountains, and the wine is hundreds of dollars high. Drinking it, the smell is abnormal, which is called ape wine. " Coincidentally, as early as the Ming Dynasty, there was a legend that this ape "brewed wine". Li Rihua, a scholar in the Ming Dynasty, also wrote a similar record: "There are many apes in Huangshan Mountain. In spring and summer, I picked flowers and fruits in a stone depression and brewed them into wine. The aroma was overflowing and I heard it in a hundred steps. "

Last year, Anhui Daily published a story about an old painter, Mr. Cheng Xiaotian, who found "monkey wine" in the extremely deep valley of Huangshan Mountain. The records of people in different times prove that something similar to "wine" is often found in the settlements of apes. It can also be inferred that the origin of wine begins with fruit fermentation, because it is much easier than grain fermentation.

Wine is a kind of fermented food, which is produced by a microorganism called yeast to decompose sugar. Yeast is a widely distributed fungus. This kind of yeast is easier to reproduce and grow in the vast natural leaves, especially in some fruits with high sugar content. Wild fruit in the mountains is an important food for apes. In the season when fruits are ripe, apes collect and store a lot of fruits in the "stone depression", and the accumulated fruits are fermented by yeast in nature, and a liquid called "wine" is precipitated in the stone depression. Therefore, it is natural that apes unconsciously "make" wine.

Theory of ex situ brewing

In Historical Records, there are many records of "making wine and being beautiful" and "opening wine mash" in Yidi.

There is a saying that Yidi is a drunk driver and Du Kang is a drinker. Literally, this means that they are brewing different wines. "Dial" is a kind of "cheese waste" made from glutinous rice fermentation. Soft and sweet, located in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. Nowadays, in many families, waking up is still self-control. Vinegar lees are white and delicate, and thick lees can be used as staple food, and the clear juice on them is quite close to wine. "Lin" is another name for sorghum. Du Kang is a forest wine producer, which means that the raw material used in Du Kang is sorghum. From this perspective, Yidi is the founder of yellow rice wine, and Du Kang may be the founder of sorghum wine.

Another way of saying it is that "the prosperity of wine originates from emperors and becomes virtue". It means that since the era of three emperors and five emperors in ancient times, various brewing methods have been popular among the people. It is easy to summarize these brewing methods and spread them to later generations.

When did Yidi come? Compared with Du Kang, the records of Yidi in ancient books are more consistent. For example, in Historical Records, Lu Chunqiu and Warring States Policy, he is considered as Yu Xia. So, is Yidi the "ancestor" of wine making? This view has been inconsistent since ancient times, and even contradicts the world. For example, Confucius VIII Sun Kongyi said that Emperor Yao and Emperor Shun were kings who were addicted to alcohol. Huangdi and Yao Shun were both good drinkers, earlier than Yu Xia and Yao Shun. Who brewed the wine they drank? It can be seen that it is inaccurate to say that Yi Di, the minister of Yu Xia, "created the mash of wine". In fact, it is very difficult to make wine with grain, and it is difficult to complete it by one person alone.

Wine evaluation knowledge

For the evaluation of beverage wine, Chinese people are used to calling it wine review.

Wine tasting is not only a technology, but also an art. The reason why it is a technology is that China, like other countries in the world, uses physical and chemical identification and sensory identification to evaluate various drinks and wines. It is an art because the styles formed by different wines in color, aroma, taste and body give people different feelings and enjoyment, which makes people "drink after knowing the taste". In addition, wine requires that life be presented to specific people in a free, wild and artistic way, which makes the artistic feelings brought by different levels of artistic accomplishment more changeable and mysterious.

Of course, only those who appreciate this mystery can talk about wine reviews. If you avoid the smell of alcohol, you can only say that God didn't give him this blessing. Hanshu Shihuozhi calls wine "the beauty of heaven", and those who are blessed are blessed, while those who cannot enjoy this happiness are naturally not blessed. However, even those who are blessed, who don't choose their fragrance, don't distinguish their ignorance, don't think about their products, don't explore their interests, and come to the net, only care about drinking beef, sweet potato wine and medicinal alcohol mixed with white water to satisfy their desires, and they don't feel art and taste, which seems to be another kind of sorrow.

Su Shi's Biography of the Master in East Sichuan tells himself: "There is nothing in the world that can't be drunk, and there is nothing for the next person." This is an evaluation of his capacity for drinking, and he also said that "there is no good wine in the world", which means that he likes the process of liquor and has no capacity for drinking, but he is so keen on it. Of course, he is interested in liquor, including tasting, which reflects his fascination with liquor culture. Fan Chengda, a poet in the Song Dynasty, once said, "I can't drink because I am naturally idle. It is more than enough to drink less from scholars and friends. And people who can understand wine are more than enough. Dare to make the judgment of "knowledge and wine" and judge wine freely.

Wine tasting has a long history in China. Many ancient scholars wrote many books and poems about wine tasting. Ming Yuan Hongdao's Zheng Jin said, "All wine is sacred in color and taste. Color is like gold, and bitterness is virtue. It's stupid to leave the country black and sour. He who intoxicates people with glutinous rice is also a gentleman. People who get drunk with wax wine are from China. Those who wake up in the alley and intoxicate with soju are also villains. " In Qing Dynasty, Liang Shaogui made incisive comments on the fragrance, lewdness and color of wine in Two Kinds of Autumn Rain Temple Essays. It shows that the evaluation of ancient China has reached a high level.

After the founding of New China, the Party and the government were very concerned about the inheritance and development of this ancient culture, and held four national wine tasting receptions successively, which played an important role in improving the quality of drinks and wines in China. The above-mentioned physical and chemical identification method of wine evaluation is to accurately analyze the components of different wines with the help of various scientific instruments, explain the relationship between the quantity of different components and the quality of wine with numerical results and comparison, and identify whether the quantity of components harmful to human body exceeds the hygienic standard.

Sensory identification is to identify wine through human senses. Beverage wine is a taste product with good color and flavor. It is impossible to comprehensively evaluate the quality of wine only by the measured values of instruments. For example, some wines are very similar in physical and chemical analysis data, but there are obvious differences in flavor. This is because the formation of the unique style of wine depends not only on the quantity of various components, but also on their coordination, balance, foil, buffer and cover-up, and sensory evaluation is a comprehensive and complex reflection.

Drink for health.

The ancients have long known the relationship between drinking and health care. The Book of Songs contains poems such as "Spring wine leads eyebrows to live longer" and "Everything is infinite". The last sentence means to help Chang's family pour wine, and the last sentence means to raise a glass to wish him a long life. Both of them associate wine with longevity.

Due to the limitation of conditions, although the ancients could not accurately determine the various components of wine, their experience gained in long-term life practice was very scientific. According to modern scientific determination, the higher the alcohol content in liquor, the higher the harmful components. For example, compared with fermented wine, harmful components mainly exist in distilled wine, while there are relatively few among fermented wine. In addition to high alcohol, highly distilled liquor also contains fusel oil (including amyl alcohol, amyl alcohol, isobutanol, propanol, etc. ), aldehydes (including formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, sugar aldehydes, etc. ), methanol, hydroxyl acid, lead, aflatoxin and other harmful components. People will be poisoned if they drink butyl, an inferior wine with high harmful components, for a long time or in excess. Symptoms such as dizziness, headache, stomach trouble, cough, chest pain, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, etc. may occur in light cases, and in severe cases, dyspnea, coma and even death may occur. However, low-alcohol fermented wine, mixed wine, such as yellow wine, fruit dew wine, medicinal liquor, milk and so on. There are few harmful components, but they are rich in nutrients such as sugar, organic acids, amino acids, sweet wine, dextrin and vitamins.

At first, the ancients thought that high-quality wines were mainly yellow wine, wine, osmanthus wine, chrysanthemum wine, pepper wine and so on. Later, it developed into liquor and various medicinal liquor based on liquor.

Fermented yellow rice wine is one of the oldest wines in China. It is rich in chloroacetic acid, various sugars, organic acids and vitamins. And has a high calorific value. Since ancient times, it has been regarded as "fairy wine" and "precious pulp" for health preservation and fitness, and it is deeply loved by people. This is also an important reason why Shaoxing yellow rice wine has been popular since the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and even became a wine for court and state banquets.

Wine contains more sugar and minerals, as well as helium-based acids, citric acid, vitamins and other nutrients. It is also a kind of health wine that the ancients loved. Cao Pi, Wei Wendi of the Three Kingdoms, once praised that the consolidation of the Tao of "being willing to bend tillers, being good at drunkenness and being easy to wake up" is the evil of salivating and loving food! "Li Shimin, Emperor Taizong, not only loves to drink, but also personally sees the Governor. Minister Wei Zhi is good at making wine. He once wrote a poem praising his wine for "being drunk for a thousand days and not waking up for ten years". "The newly revised Materia Medica has listed grapes as tonic wine, which is considered to have the effects of" warming the waist and tonifying the kidney, preserving color and keeping out the cold ". Hu Sihui, a poet in the Yuan Dynasty, said that it had the functions of "invigorating qi, regulating middle energizer, fighting hunger and aspiring". Li Shizhen also said that wine has the function of "color preservation and cold resistance". Gao Lian also listed it as "health wine" in Eight Chapters of Yun Sheng.

Osmanthus wine was drunk by the ancients as early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Qu Yuan said in "Nine Rest": "Yao Hui steamed Xi Lan chicken, Yunnan ghost wine Xi Jiaojiang." The osmanthus wine used in this ceremony is osmanthus wine brewed with osmanthus, which was also called osmanthus sugar, osmanthus vinegar and osmanthus syrup in ancient times. The ancients believed that osmanthus fragrans was the best medicine, so the wine brewed with osmanthus fragrans could be "delicious and dry for many years". According to "Today's Four People Month", osmanthus wine in Han Dynasty is a good product for people to worship their ancestors. After the sacrifice, the younger generation respects this wine to the elders, and the elders will live long after drinking this wine. In addition, osmanthus wine is the top grade for people to entertain guests. "History of rites and music in Han Dynasty" says: "Honorable for a long time, Bimba Township." Many feudal emperors also gave osmanthus wine as a gift to ministers. Scholars of all ages also praised osmanthus wine. Bai Juyi once praised osmanthus wine with the poem "The red cherry is colorless and the foam is fine". Su Shi's poems on osmanthus wine in Song Dynasty show that the ancients cherished osmanthus wine.

As early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the ancients knew the medicinal and edible value of chrysanthemum. Cao Pi, Emperor Wen of Wei, thinks that chrysanthemum "helps to prolong life, and the moss is expensive." Su Shi also believes that the flowers, leaves, roots and responsibilities of chrysanthemum are all "longevity drugs". In the Han dynasty, people used drugs to make wine with flowers. Liu's Miscellaneous Notes on Xijing: "Chrysanthemum is suitable, and it is brewed with stems and leaves and miscellaneous millet. Drink it when it is ripe on September 9 next year, so it is called chrysanthemum wine. " The ancients thought that chrysanthemum was a flower that did not fade after frost, so chrysanthemum wine could resist aging. Medical books such as Compendium of Materia Medica say that chrysanthemum has the effects of dispelling wind and improving eyesight, calming the liver and clearing heat, which is particularly beneficial to the hearing and vision of the elderly. Therefore, ancient chrysanthemum wine is favored and is a must-have for the Double Ninth Festival.

Modern science has proved that these understandings and statements of Gu Ding are correct. Excessive drinking will not only make people's perception, thinking, emotion, intelligence and behavior out of control, but also get carried away. It will also destroy people's health, lead to malnutrition, mental disorder, gastrointestinal discomfort, liver damage, and even cause serious consequences such as heart and cancer and poisoning. The prevalence of long-term excessive drinking is extremely high, and the mortality rate is also very high. If a person drinks too much for a long time, his life span will be shortened by ten to twelve years.

Correct drinking method

Some people may think that drinking is a very simple thing, but it is not. Drinking is actually an artistic enjoyment, with a high level and a lot of knowledge. Especially in ancient times, people not only paid attention to the quality of wine, but also emphasized the moderation of drinking, and paid great attention to the environment and methods of drinking, such as when to drink, when not to drink, where to drink, what to drink, how to drink and so on. There are many rules and regulations. For example, regarding the ideal drinking environment, Hao Bin made the following summary:

People who drink: elegant, chivalrous, straightforward, forgetful, confidant, old friend, jade man, Kerr.

Drinking places: Huaxia, Bamboo Forest, Gaojian, Painting Boat, Youguan, Qushi, Pingxi and Lianhua Pavilion. In addition, spring drinking is suitable for the court, summer drinking is effective, autumn drinking is suitable for the ship, winter drinking is suitable for the room, and night drinking is suitable for the bright moon.

Drinking time: spring effect, flower time, love autumn, petal green, inch fog, snow, new moon and cool night.

Products: light, wonderful today, union, fragrance, flowers, music, and tempering.

Prohibition of alcohol: on birthdays, staying up late, earnestly persuading alcohol, quarreling, avoiding alcohol, being evil, indecent and pretending to be drunk.

Drinking stalls: walking, singing pillows, sitting on rocks, parting, fishing, going ashore, boiling springs, throwing pots (Volume III of Complete Works of Hao Bin's Wine Administration).

Specifically, the ancient drinking experience and methods are mainly manifested in:

(1) Be in a good mood when drinking.

The ancients believed that wine should not be drunk indiscriminately, but only when the body and mood were normal. Don't drink alcohol when you are unwell, too sad or angry. Otherwise it will damage your health. When talking about food hygiene, enthusiast Tsui Hark said: "When it comes to food hygiene, it is not suitable to eat when you are angry or depressed in summer. Food is indigestible and easy to get sick. This is what everyone should quit. " According to the theory of traditional Chinese medicine, when people are angry, the liver qi rushes up, the face turns red, and they have a headache and dizziness. If they drink again, the situation will add fuel to the fire, which is more suitable to get out of control and cause unimaginable consequences.

(2) Drink with warm wine

The ancients drank more enthusiastically. The warm wine vessels in Shang and Zhou Dynasties are a strong proof. Why do you want to drink wine warm? Jia Ming, a native of Yuan Dynasty, said: "All drinking should be warm, not hot", but drinking cold wine is not good, and he thinks that "drinking cold wine becomes a hand war (that is, trembling)." Lu Rong, an Amin, recorded his personal feelings and experiences in Miscellanies of the Tang Dynasty: "When I heard a doctor say' wine is not suitable for cold drinks', I was quite careless and said that this was unknown to Danxi theory. A few years later, I got dysentery in autumn, which led to this treatment. Yun said, "Do you drink more cold wine?" Zi claimed that in order to obey Danxi's words, he often used cold drinks and alcohol in summer. Medical cloud:' Danxi knows the harm of hot wine, but I don't know that cold wine is especially harmful! Hot wine can hurt the lungs because of its good nature, but it is mostly for promoting qi and blood circulation; Cold wine is harmless to the lungs, and the stomach hates cold. Drinking too much will lead to qi stagnation. For the pavilion to drink, the cover is neither cold nor hot, which is suitable for it and harmless. "

Both of them have a point. Because in addition to ethanol, wine also contains harmful substances such as methanol, fusel oil, furfural, butyraldehyde, valeraldehyde, acetaldehyde and lead. Methanol is harmful to eyesight. Ten milliliters of methanol will lead to blindness, and more people will be in danger. But the boiling point of methanol is 64.7 degrees Celsius, which is lower than that of ethanol, which is 78.3 degrees Celsius. Heating with boiling water or alcohol fire will turn into gas evaporation. Acetaldehyde is the main component of the pungent smell of wine. Excessive inhalation will lead to dizziness and other drunkenness, and its boiling point is only 2 1 degree Celsius, which can be volatilized with slightly hot water. At the same time, in the process of wine heating, alcohol will also volatilize, so that the harmful components in wine will be much less and the harm to human body will be less. Of course, the temperature of the wine should not be too high. If the wine is overheated, it will damage your health. Second, too much ethanol will volatilize, and even the best wine will be tasteless.

(c) "Drinks must be swallowed"

Many of us in modern times often pay attention to drinking toasts. It seems that a glass of dry talent is painful and generous. In fact, it is unscientific to drink like this. The correct way to drink should be to drink lightly and slowly. "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals" said: "Anyone who keeps in good health, ... must swallow it lightly and be straight." Long Ming Zunchai said in "Gentleman's Words on Diet": "Drinking alcohol should not be rushed, otherwise it will damage the stomach and lungs. The lung is the most important part of the heart, liver, spleen, kidney and lung, just like the hood of the emperor's car, which can't be particularly damaged. " Zhu Yizun, my lover, also said in "The Secret of Eating Fairy Red": "Drinking should not be rough and fast, and rough and fast will hurt the lungs. The lung is covered by five internal organs, so it must not be hurt. And the speed is rough and there is no product. " Tsui Hark also thinks that "it is not appropriate to wash in a hurry", so we should chew slowly, so as to taste and help digestion, so as not to cause an excessive burden on the spleen and stomach. It is more clearly stated in Tiaodingji that wine is "not suitable for quick drinking".

(4) Don't mix drinks.

In the book "Dietary Instructions", Yuan said: "Diet is the way of keeping in good health, but I don't know that its physical properties are contrary to each other. It's gossip, five aspects are not harmonious, but it's a disaster. It is also harmful to health. So is wine. Besides ethanol, different wines have other different ingredients, some of which are not suitable for mixing. Drinking a variety of wines will produce some new harmful ingredients, which will make people feel uncomfortable and have a headache. " "Qing Sheng Lu" once said to people: "Wine should not be mixed. After drinking it, although the drinker is drunk, he is deeply loved by his drinkers. Well, for example, "Hu Shi, a scholar in Ye Wan, visited Japan in winter and used the wine left by various families as a tool. Halfway through the banquet, the guests were scared, and they warned each other privately. When in doubt, when asked, one person said,' A certain gentleman's family has Bai's milk.' "

In addition, medicinal liquor is not suitable for banquets. Medicinal liquor generally contains a variety of Chinese herbal medicine ingredients. For example, some medicinal ingredients may conflict with some ingredients in food, which makes people uncomfortable.

(5) Don't drink on an empty stomach.

There is an old saying in China called "Never drink when you are angry on an empty stomach", which holds that drinking must be accompanied by delicacies. Don Sun Simiao's Dry Gold for Grain also reminds people not to drink on an empty stomach. Because alcohol will be decomposed by the liver after entering the human body. In the process of liver decomposition, various vitamins are needed to maintain and assist. If there is no food in the gastrointestinal tract at this time, ethanol is most easily absorbed quickly, leading to muscle disorder and liver damage. Therefore, drinking should be accompanied by dishes and fruits with high nutritional value, which is also a trick to drink for health. Of course, it is not advisable to drink alcohol after meals.

(6) Don't drink hard liquor.

When drinking, you can't force others to persuade you, you can't win in anger, and you can't drink. Zhang Chao said in the introduction of Huang Jiu's "A Brief Introduction to the Reception": "There are three kinds of people who drink. Good drinkers need not be persuaded, and those who refuse to drink cannot be persuaded. Only one person who can drink so he doesn't drink should be persuaded, but if he can drink so he doesn't drink, he has deceived himself first, so what can I do to persuade him? So, it means that you don't ask to be a guest, you can drink it if you like, and you don't need anyone to persuade me. " My lover Ruan Kuisheng quoted Chen Jiting in the book Tea for Guests: "If you are struggling to persuade people to get drunk, iFLYTEK will be a guest, otherwise, you will change your mind. A gentleman drinks alcohol and honestly measures his feelings. There is always a reason why literati are timid and elegant. Husband is just a servant in the government, and takes pleasure in courtesy, generosity and drunkenness. " Although there is contempt for the labor force in his speech, it is extremely desirable for him not to persuade people to get drunk.

(7) Drink less tea.

Since ancient times, many drinkers often like to drink tea after drinking, thinking that drinking tea can relieve alcohol. Actually, it is not. Drinking tea after drinking is very harmful to your health. Li Shizhen said: "Drinking tea after drinking hurts the kidney, the waist and feet are heavy, the bladder is cold and painful, and the sputum is swollen and thirsty." Wei Yizun also said: "If you drink it, you will be thirsty. Don't drink water, sip more tea. Tea is cold and enters the kidney with wine, which stops poison for water. Today, my waist and feet are falling heavily, and my bladder is cold and painful, which means edema and thirst quenching, twins. Modern science has confirmed what they call the damage of drinking tea to the kidneys. According to the ancient way of keeping in good health, it is advisable to use fruit to sober up after drinking, or use sugar cane and white radish to sober up.

◎ Classification of drinking poems

First of all, wine for the banquet

Second, farewell dinner wine

Third, traditional festival wine.

Fourth, a person drinks, drinks casually and drinks wine.

Five, frontier fortress, military wine

Sixth, offering sacrifices to gods and village wine

Seven, the performance of unreasonable wine poems in society.