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Suzhou (1)
Jiangnan has always been an artistic conception that fascinated me. Because of the deep and shallow rain, the ever-changing water, the house with white walls and black tiles, and the gentle and beautiful Jiangnan woman, she walked through the alley of Qingshiban Road with an oiled paper umbrella in the misty rain.

My memory of Suzhou seems to begin with the girl I met in Taiwan Province Province three years ago.

She is a girl who studies architecture. During her six months in Taiwan Province Province, she hand-painted ancient buildings all over Taiwan Province Province. She also compiled a pamphlet about Taiwanese architecture with friends. The illustrations were drawn by her, and the words were her friend's books. At that time, I was still a chaotic teenager, but I was moved by her enthusiasm, so I think what a beautiful place Suda should be. How can a school with a cultural background produce these beautiful girls in Zhong Ling?

So Suzhou has always been a crystal dream in my heart, but it has never been round for three years. First, I have never traveled alone, and I have a natural fear of unknown loneliness; First, I always want to wait for my heart to be clear and transparent, and I want to experience and feel with a pious heart. In fact, these are just excuses to escape. We should set out bravely and experience a life we have never experienced before.

So I woke up from my nap in a sunny afternoon, carrying my schoolbag and embarking on my road.

Suzhou surprised me when I got off the train.

Suzhou Station with wooden structure exudes a warm and quaint atmosphere. In front of the station is the Suzhou moat, where there is a relief stone tablet of Pingjiang map. Crossing the river is the ancient city wall of Pingmen section, full of ancient charm, and within the city wall is the ancient city of Gusu. At night, the light and shadow of the city wall are heavy and profound, silently telling the history and culture of Suzhou. Needless to say, there is a statue of the Eight Immortals Temple in the square in front of the station. Suzhou people's confidence in their own culture can be seen from the railway station.

I had some hesitation and fear, but now my mood has become clear.

When I got on the bus (I got a dollar for the ride from a handsome guy next to me) and went to the reserved youth hostel, Grandet Youth Hostel, I chatted with the little girl at the front desk because I was in a light mood.

She, show me her ID card. Shunkou, what room type?

Me, let me see. Looks like a tatami big bed room.

She, alone? Laugh.

I, um, what's the matter? Can I stay for two? Give a wry smile.

She, no, no, I thought you'd have friends over. Laughing is sunny, but a little naughty.

I pretended to sigh sadly and saw her companion bring her a cup of fried yogurt. If she wants to pinch it with her hands, tell her not to forget to lick her fingers after eating.

Strangely, almost all the girls I met in the corridor opened my room with a little trepidation, so I understand why the little girl laughed naughty.

Well, that's great. There's nothing wrong with being colorful. I think.

What attracted me to the big terrace youth brigade was not its beautiful bedspread, but its big terrace.

Boarding the large terrace on the third floor, you can have a panoramic view of the night in the ancient city of Gusu.

The wind in early spring is blowing with a slight coolness. It's not the season for big terraces, and the stage is empty. I walked up and down on the wooden floor, looking at rattan chairs and lounge chairs, and looking at the sleepy laziness of Suzhou City outside. I can imagine that if it was a summer night, I had seen lotus flowers in Humble Administrator's Garden, had a barbecue, called my friends to this big terrace, or sat or lay down, blowing the cool breeze of Suzhou City that lasted for thousands of years, listening to mosquitoes buzzing in my ears, saying some boring words and drinking some.

Go out and walk slowly along Pingjiang Road. There are few pedestrians on the road. Probably because it's not the weekend yet, Pingjiang Road without tourists is a bit cold. Many shops have closed, and some have not even opened. Stepping on Qingshi Road, I saw Fuxi Hall in the distance, which read "Kunqu Opera, Pingtan, Guqin, Tea". I dare not be arty, but I thought of listening to Kunqu opera with my friends and having tea with her. There has always been a yearning in my heart, I want to get closer and have a good look.

The performance should be over soon, and there are no tourists in the store. Sitting at the table is a woman (or man) in a costume. Can't see), the makeup of the performance is still on, the face is expressionless, and I don't know what I'm thinking. I looked out of the window for a while and thought it would be a blessing if I could communicate with such an artist. But I don't know anything about Kunqu Opera and Guqin tea art, and I'm afraid to disturb other people's dreams. After much consideration, I have to leave quietly.

Later, I checked Fuxitang. That woman should be Lu, the teacher.

The next morning, before going out, I went to the big terrace to see the daytime in the ancient city.

However, there is nothing to see in the ancient city during the day. The dilapidated black walls and white tiles are full of vicissitudes, and the wires flying in the air cannot be formed. Only a flock of pigeons are flying around. If it weren't for the willow in the distance, I think it would be autumn.

On the big terrace, I met a young flower farmer who was loosening the soil and watering it. I like the word "playboy farmer" I saw last night. I gave it to him.

Tu Jian was lured by the travel agency, so she began a day of cheating. It is said that we all go shopping by ourselves. The travel agency only takes us to the scenic spots, and we are not in a hurry. We'll visit them after ourselves and take us to the next scenic spot.

Sent me to the lion forest first.

How can I put it? Lion Forest didn't surprise me, although I wandered around here all morning, visiting every corner of the garden, every rockery and every path. Maybe it's because I don't study rocks, and I really don't understand the fun of rockery, or it's easy for modern people to travel around famous mountains and rivers, and I really don't need rockery to provide the fun of enjoying mountains. I don't know much about the art of gardening, whether it's changing scenery or winding paths, and I dare not show it off here.

Actually, I prefer photographing people to photographing landscapes.

The girl in red is posing, and her companion is taking pictures of her in the water. I think it's beautiful. A red dress is so beautiful in this gray garden that I can't help taking a picture next to it. Just a girl. You can shake hands with your mobile phone. It's not good to hang it around your neck I always feel like an old lady in a tour group.

There were no flowers in the lion forest, but I met this peach blossom in a corner.

After visiting the Lion Grove, I went to eat "Zhu Hongxing" recommended by Suzhou friend Xige.

I ordered a bowl of classic Soviet-style braised pork noodles, and I was shocked when I served it. I remember the bowl of "big meat noodles" I ate at Jiaotong University. No wonder everyone says that "one meal" is called "one (Yi four tones) meal", because I will only eat one meal here.

However, it turns out that meat is invisible.

Very smooth and delicate taste, tender meat, oily but not greasy, instant in the mouth, not soft with chopsticks, whether it is fat or lean meat, or even the skin, you don't need to use teeth. After eating your lips and teeth, you will feel that such a piece of meat has undergone complicated seasoning and cooking, but its color is the most authentic meat color. In the words of China on the Tip of the Tongue, this almost paranoid preservation of the essential color and flavor of ingredients should be a major feature of southern food culture.

As for the taste of thin noodles in clear soup, I ignored it. Now that I think about it, I vaguely remember that noodles are very thick.

After eating noodles, go on a cruise according to the arrangement of the travel agency. The tour guide is from the northeast and has a loud voice. He made a lot of noise and dirty jokes along the way, which really affected people's mood of enjoying the scenery. Although I didn't enjoy the scenery, I got to know my colleague Zhao Ning, a handsome guy from Shanghai. He also went out to play alone and reported the cheating travel agency. We hit it off, so we made an appointment to stay in the same youth brigade at night.

The cruise ship travels slowly along a section of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, with picturesque scenery on both sides. Remembering that there were many farewell poems by the ancients, Li Bai was about to leave by boat when he suddenly heard the song on the shore, which was a happy farewell; Oh, ask this river flowing eastward, whether it can go further than the love of friends! It is a heroic farewell; If relatives and friends in Luoyang ask each other, a piece of ice heart is in the jade pot, which is a sincere farewell; It is a sad farewell to wake people up at dusk and go down to the west wing in the wind and rain. This water has been flowing for thousands of years, which nourishes not only one side of the land, but also the sincerity of thousands of literati in Qian Qian.

There are many trees planted by the river, besides willow, there is also a camphor tree. According to the tour guide, Suzhou people used to plant a sycamore tree in front of the door after giving birth to their son, which means "Wu Fengqi", which means they can be a big official in the future. When the daughter is born, a camphor tree will be planted. The matchmaker will calculate the daughter's age by looking at the age of the tree. When the age is right, she will come to match the media. When the daughter gets married, the camphor tree will be cut down and given her two boxes as a dowry. Sounds interesting, too.

There are many families by the river. When they see some people washing clothes by the river, they will think of the ancient yarn washing girl. According to legend, when the stone washes the yarn by the river, its own reflection is reflected in the water, and the fish in the water are fascinated and forget to swim, so there is a legend of "sinking fish". After Wu's death, the stone's whereabouts were unknown. I prefer the folk saying that after Wu's death, Shi returned and went to the Five Lakes with him. The boat passed away from now on, and Jiang Hai spent the rest of his life. What a beautiful picture.

The house by the river, the window of which opens to one side of the river, is called "pillow river family". There is an ancient poem: when we meet in Gusu, people will sleep by the river. The houses in Suzhou city are connected together, and there is no open space; Even on the branch of the river, bridges are full of troubles.

I took a cruise and was taken shopping by a cheating travel agency. First stop-Silk Museum.

I wrote it not because I was so interested in silk, but because I remembered the experience of raising silkworms when I was a child.

I remember that I asked my friend for a piece of silkworm paper, which was full of silkworm eggs. By the light, I can see black silkworms lying quietly inside, waiting for the warmth of spring to wake them up. Then, spring came, mulberry trees grew new leaves, and these lovely little creatures appeared, as small as ants' beards. I don't know if they have eyes, but their black heads are dragging their white bodies and crawling slowly on the newly picked mulberry leaves. Oh, yes, I climbed a very tall tree and picked this mulberry leaf. Seeing that they had been busy climbing all day, the mulberry leaves were just a little missing from the side, which was really frustrating. Why are you so slow? Eat more and grow up quickly.

Sometimes I can't wait, I will take them to school in a small box and secretly take them out of my desk during class. They are still quietly gnawing at the leaves and are not in a hurry to grow up.

But slowly one day, when they grew up, a small box could no longer hold them, so they were replaced by a big pencil box and later a big shoe box. They began to eat more mulberry leaves. After class, they will choose a big bag to eat for two days. They are not elegant, they start to rustle when they eat, so they can't be taken to school. Sometimes I pick one up and look at it carefully. When I grow up, I feel ugly. When I was a child, I was not cute at all.

Later, some of them stopped eating mulberry leaves. Find a corner of a shoe box, or between branches of mulberry branches, and prepare to spin silk to make cocoons. Some silkworm babies are proud and quiet. They weave cocoons in a quiet corner and don't make neighbors with other silkworm babies. Some baby silkworms are naughty and insist on connecting their cocoons with others' and building their own nests next to others. Some silkworm babies flirt with other silkworm babies before they grow up, and the last two * * * build a love nest and form a double cocoon, sharing life and death. There are also some silkworm babies who don't take the usual path. Everyone else's cocoons are white. They want to make a yellow one for you to see, which is different and unconventional. But I don't see white and yellow forming a double cocoon together. What kind of cocoon should it be, half white and half yellow? Or yellow and white?

After cocoon formation, I put all the cocoons in the carton, and then wait for them to break out and become butterflies (moths).

I have never cut a cocoon, because it is a cruel thing. Silkworm pupae with cocoons can't be turned into butterflies. Without the protection of cocoons, its life is very fragile. Because of this sericulture experience, I don't eat silkworm chrysalis, because I know that it is my own little life, and those chrysalis are all uncultured butterflies. I can feel the sadness that a life has not completed the cycle.

In a few days, those pupae will break out of the cocoon. They will bite the cocoon into small mouths, and then come out hard, squeezing their bodies and wings in the process, which will make them mature. The newly hatched silkworm moth still has wrinkled wings. But it is cute, with small black eyes, feathery tentacles (as if only male moths have them), short legs dragging a big belly (only female moths have them), crawling around, exploring hormones and love in the air.

Cocoons bitten by silkworm moths cannot be used for reeling, because they have bitten off the silk. Therefore, all silk reeling in factories uses cocoons containing pupae, which are boiled and then spun by machines. This is another cruel thing.

Later, when the silkworm moths were paired, the mother moth would leave a lot of silkworm eggs on the paper, that is, silkworm paper, and their lives would end. By next spring, these silkworm eggs will hatch into young silkworms and start a new round of life cycle.

After visiting the Silk Museum, I took it to the Pearl Museum to buy pearls. Zhao Ning and I didn't go shopping, so we waited in the car for them to decorate the garden.

Dingyuan is said to be the private residence of Liu Bowen, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty, but there is no basis. Now Dingyuan is built on the original Dingyuan site, not an ancient garden. To put it bluntly, it's a pit.

But the artificial landscape in the park is still good.

There is a flower temple in Dingyuan where you can get married. So I spent 5 yuan to ask for a sign, and when I asked for an explanation with a sign:

Where is home? I can hardly understand Suzhou Mandarin.

Henan, I will answer honestly.

How old are you this year?

Let me see, um, 24.

Do you have a girlfriend?

number

30 yuan invited Zhu Xiang. Then I'll tell you how to find a girlfriend.

Shit, you big ye. If I want to find a girlfriend, I need you to teach me how to find one.

Decisively refuse.

Then it was dragged to Panmen Scenic Area.

The door is beautiful, but it gives too little time. Originally, I didn't go to Dingyuan for a stroll, and Panmen didn't go for a stroll. I'll be out in a few minutes. Although the scenery is beautiful, I feel inexplicable anxiety.

Swear that from now on, refuse any group tour, be sure to arrange your own time, watch and experience slowly.

Take a cruise to Jinji Lake in the evening. Brother Xi recommended this to me, saying it was very beautiful, so I had to go and see it.

The cruise ship in Jinji Lake must be photographed at night to look good. The cool night breeze in Suzhou is blowing, and ripples are rippling on the water. Looking at the horseshoe-shaped Suzhou Culture and Art Center on the left, the colorful colors are constantly changing, and the high Ferris wheel on the right is shining with soft white light. Although I know that the technology of light and shadow is man-made, it is so beautiful that I can't stop taking pictures with my mobile phone.

While intoxicated, a girl sitting on the other side came over and said, handsome boy, can you let me take this pose?

Sure, you sit here and take your time.

I was shocked to see the photos taken when my sister was fine. No matter the composition, light, angle and retouching, it is a hundred times better than what I took. I thought it was ok to take pictures with my mobile phone. I didn't know there was a mountain beyond the mountain until I saw the photo taken by this girl. Quickly praise a few words and share photos with your sister on WeChat. No, no, no, I'm not teaching you how to strike up a conversation. I really think the photos are beautiful. Serious face)

So I met Xuan Ya, a girl who is good at photography and likes flowers and plants.

Oh, yes, and an uncle. After getting out of the subway, the uncle asked Zhao Ning and me for directions and went to Jinji Lake for a cruise. He has been following us since he asked the way. Uncle seems to be very tall, talking constantly on the road, making friends with our young people, giving people a feeling of being unstable and unreliable, so I basically ignored him, and Zhao Ning was talking to him. After the cruise, we visited the Cultural and Art Center together, took the subway together, and went to Pingjiang Road to eat snacks together. Ten thousand grass mud horses are running in their hearts: Uncle, what are you doing with us young people at your age? Fortunately, he offered to visit Su University, but this uncle didn't always follow us.

Go to Pingjiang Road to eat snacks with Zhao Ning. Eat a delicious tearful bread:

The key is that the price is really affordable, and a large piece of bread is only 6 yuan.

There is also a small shop selling flowers on Pingjiang Road, named "Hua Wuque":

There is also a cultural and creative bookstore, Cat City in the Sky:

I like this store very much, because I saw something I've always wanted to say but I don't know how to express it:

I began to like someone. In my opinion, it is not necessary to be lonely, but the loneliness of the spiritual world. I either read or write, or watch my favorite movies and cook, but I never have free time. If I want to talk to others, I will listen carefully and talk well. When I don't feel the need to express myself, I will shut up. Later, I gradually no longer need to keep warm in the crowd, and I feel that I have light. When people are young, they always don't like to say no, because they always feel that it is not disappointing and that they have nothing to bear. It is the biggest insult to say that they can't afford to play.

Grass thief

in Shanghai