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On the sixth day of Yunnan and Tibet, Lulang-Shannan
5-20-20 19 Lulang-Shannan

On the sixth day, I left Zangjue Family Hotel in Lulang, Linzhi, and went to Shannan City by the Yarlung Zangbo River, where I had my first Tibetan meal of yak meat.

In Zhaxigang Village, Lulang Town, Linzhi, I walked into Cang Jue's living room for breakfast in the morning, with rice porridge and eggs. She is baking a cake by the fire. I saw her butter the cake with a knife, so she ate it too. It's really delicious. Pai lives in the warehouse building and hasn't got up yet. Cang Jue said that he heard him talking on the phone upstairs last night and kept joking and staying up late. We told Pai that Pai said he heard the family downstairs talking and laughing until very late. It seems that Tibetan houses are really not soundproof.

I'm leaving Kailulang, a little reluctant. I like the clean, orderly and unique appearance here. This is due to the diligence and wisdom of the owners, and this foundation is their cultural beliefs. In addition, I also thank the country for bringing the road here, giving them the opportunity to get rich and giving us the opportunity to get to know them conveniently. No matter what nationality, is it not the most universal value to pursue personal happiness in a clear and stable environment? I kind of want to stay and watch the four seasons. Later, I heard Wang Yang complain that the luxury standard room of Cang Jue's house was not up to standard in some places, such as the toilet didn't put down the paper and the TV couldn't stand it for some reason. Anyway, my personal experience is very good, and I still want to advertise her home, Linzhi Tibetan Jue Family Hotel.

Continue westward along 3 18, and we climbed up soon after Linhai. The light rain turned to snow, and the wind became stronger. Soon we came to the mouth of Sejila Mountain at an altitude of 4559 meters. The sky is overcast, and naturally you can't see the Nangarbawa Peak in the Himalayas.

After Ranwu and Lulang, I don't seem to have much expectation for the beautiful scenery. Pass by Linzhi City, take a highway, and then pass a county road to Shannan City. Shannan region is one of the birthplaces of Tibetan civilization. Tens of thousands of years ago, there were human tribes living together along the Yalong River. In the long history, the 33rd generation Songzan Gambo, a semi-agricultural and semi-nomadic tribe here, unified Tibet in the 7th century, established the Tubo Dynasty and moved its capital to Lhasa, thus opening the official history of Tibet. Shannan has the legendary first cultivated land in Tibet ("Suodang" in Zadang Saki village), the first palace (Yongbulakang) and the first temple (Sanye Temple), as well as the tombs of Tibetan kings in past dynasties.

However, archaeology in recent years shows that before the Tubo dynasty, the Xiangxiong dynasty, which originated in Ali area in western Tibet, once covered a large number of Tibetan areas and had a strong military and brilliant civilization. At that time, Shannan tribe was only a vassal of Xiangxiong dynasty. All aspects of modern Tibetan life customs also show the characteristics of ancient elephant culture, such as turning to Shenshan Lake, kowtowing, pushing Nima piles, hanging prayer flags, dancing with kettle piles and so on.

Shannan City is close to the Yarlung Zangbo River, where the river is clear and the river is wide and calm. There are dark green and light green trees on the sandbar, either tall or short. Dense notes make up the rich melody in the valley. This is the first prefecture-level city we stayed in Xizang Autonomous Region (National Highway 3 18 didn't pass Linzhi, so we just took a long look). Shannancheng is not big, it seems that there are only two east-west main roads. Shops along the street sell some daily necessities and local products commonly used by Tibetans, including many religious supplies, such as butter lamps and bowls, offerings from Buddhist niches and so on. The printing of all kinds of cotton cloth in the cloth shop is very different from that in the mainland, which is quite ethnic. I'd like to take some back if I'm not afraid of getting fat. When I came back from dinner, the cloth shop was closed, which saved me the trouble.

In Shannan, I stayed at the Secret Garden Inn, a bed in 44 yuan. There is already a girl living in the house. She greeted me warmly with snacks. She just finished a work project nearby and came to Shannan City to have a rest. She is a native of Hubei and now lives in Hunan. Her boyfriend is a civil servant in Sangri County, Shannan. How about going out for dinner? All right. She said that a client took her to a distinctive Tibetan restaurant two days ago and asked me if I was interested. Of course there is! So she started asking about the name and address of the restaurant on WeChat. We walked in the street. She has chin-length short hair, a face of collagen, fair skin, more than half a head taller than me, big skeleton, slightly strong but well-proportioned, slender legs, a bit like my sister-in-law in Hubei. Girls in Hubei are quite tall. Her friend didn't reply and didn't remember the Tibetan restaurant she mentioned, so we decided to find a place to eat. Walking, she said it seemed to be here, took me into an alley and found the restaurant where my ancestors used to hide! The main entrance is in an obscure alley, and there is a row of prayer wheels opposite the door. In fact, you can also see the signboard of this restaurant on the second floor along the street.

As she said, it is decorated like a museum with many antiques. There are lifelike story reliefs on the surrounding walls, describing the encounter between the Tibetan ancestor Rosa and the monkey in the mountains, and there is a sheep specimen next to it. In Shannan legend, people are descendants of monkeys and Rosa. I can't say how beautiful these furnishings are. They are definitely not aesthetic styles, but they also have meticulous intentions. The whole is a little clumsy but solemn and realistic, without any exaggeration.

There is a small stage in the dining room. It is said that there will be a song and dance performance at 8 o'clock. We sat down and ordered yak meat, mushroom rape, highland barley fruit, a pot of milk tea and a ginseng fruit yogurt. At dinner, we talked about yoga and spirituality. She gave me an official WeChat account of isha Yoga, saying that she would volunteer at the isha Center in India at the end of May. Yoga, as an aerobic exercise, I also practice it, but I think many so-called spiritual lessons are the pastime of the rich and the idle. She said that isha is different. It is a service mainly organized by volunteers, aiming at promoting the spirit of yoga to the whole world and teaching a lifestyle that controls your life from the inside out. She said that she didn't go to college, came out to work early, earned and lost in business, and now she wants to live a simple and leisurely life. She is going to buy a yard in Sangri County and do some organic agriculture.

I asked her curiously whether the environment here is conducive to children's future education. She said that neither she nor her boyfriend planned to have children, and the purpose of practice was to get rid of the secular world. Then why did she create a person to stay here? I'm not going to have children either, because I'm not brave enough, and I'm worried that I'm not good enough and responsible enough. Life can have different practices and different missions. She and I are both sensitive and dare not have too much confidence in the current social situation. We don't want our children to face the current education system or live in an environment where industrial pollution is pervasive. Maybe we are all credulous people. She is only 28 years old this year, and there are still many possibilities in life. I heard that I will go to Lhasa tomorrow. She suggested that I live near Jokhang Temple in Barkhor Street, where it is lively during the day and quiet at night. There are many interesting places within walking distance.

Hand-grabbed yak meat is super delicious! It is also served with baked potatoes, like exquisite western food, which tastes not bad at all. The highland barley fruit is not too crisp, which is probably related to the edible material. We ate ginseng fruit yogurt separately, although it was a little sour with sugar. We ate all the dishes and just had enough. The dancers appeared, actually an aunt and an uncle. At the beginning of the music accompaniment, they sang and kicked. The guests who ate below seemed to appreciate their careful performance and burst into applause from time to time. In the mainland, if it is not handsome and beautiful, probably no one will watch it. Before it was dark outside, we strolled to a Little Square in the city, where men, women and children were dancing Tibetan tap dance-Pot Zhuang Dance, and we were imitating the dance steps. Several Tibetan old ladies looked at us and smiled.