In the first winter of Yizheng, I ate seaweed in the canteen of the unit. Brightly colored laver is simply removed from the leaves, leaving crisp pedicels, folded into several sections, neatly coded, shredded with bacon and fried in a pot. After a while, a plate of purple delicious special dishes came out of the pot. Pick up laver and bacon with chopsticks and send them to your mouth. Vegetarian dishes are fleshy and oily, greasy and green.
Lao Yang, a local, told me that the laver in Yizheng first grew on Xupu River in Yizheng and was covered with purple. He said that in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, laver is purple only when it is planted in Yizheng. After Yizheng, the color of laver will change from purple to blue, just like ordinary vegetables. There is a saying that Yizheng is located in the south of Huaishui and the north of the Yangtze River. It has been a battleground for military strategists since ancient times. There are frequent wars and corpses everywhere. The blood of those soldiers who died in battle flowed into the soil, and the wild vegetables growing by the river absorbed the blood gas and grew into bright purple, as if those hot-blooded men were reincarnated, telling immortal heroism through laver. Of course, this is just an anecdotal legend. The reason why laver has become a special scenery in Yizheng lies in the suitability of geographical climate here. Xupu River flows into the Yangtze River from north to south, with hilly areas in Hexi and high sand plains in Hedong, which are impacted by the Yangtze River. There are both mountains and polder fields here, and the unique soil environment makes it a special producing area of laver.
Purple has always been a noble color, mysterious and elegant, solemn and orderly. Even a leaf is exquisite. People who go to the market to buy food this season can always see the beautiful image of laver. Clever vegetable farmers will tie laver neatly with straw ropes and put it on street stalls, and pour some water on the stems and leaves of laver to make it look more beautiful. This is the best silent advertisement. A bundle is just one plate, which is enough for the whole family to enjoy and not to waste. Lao Yang, who is good at living, will choose the freshest bundle and buy it. It will be a delicious dish when he comes home. Laver has a unique spirit. Born in the countryside, it lives exquisitely and elegantly. Just like people here, although they live in this small town, they are happy to be content and live a full life. Food and city, diet and folk customs are just right, and complement each other. Perhaps it is precisely because laver carries too much soil and water that it has become a fashion to send laver on holidays. Foreigners who work here come back to China, and wanderers who are rooted here like to bring a few such purple buds when they go out. They are not only healthy and beautiful, but also represent Yizheng custom, and then send appropriate blessings, such as "Purple gas comes from the east, good luck in the coming year" or "Father Zhu, rising from the sky".
In Yizheng, almost every household cooks this dish in winter. In the cold season, laver not only enriched diners' stomachs, but also warmed people's hearts, accompanied Yizheng people through one winter after another, and accompanied me through Yizheng's years, which made me taste the beauty of Yizheng.
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