The appearance and use of cosmetics was a long time ago.
The earliest record of using cosmetics came from Egypt, about 3750 BC.
For centuries, the technology of cosmetics has not changed much, but the raw materials used in cosmetics have changed greatly.
Ancient Egyptian women mainly painted their eyes with bauxite and azurite, their necks with ochre red, and their faces, necks and arms with cream dyed brown.
In addition, the eyebrows should be pulled out, and then a long false eyebrow should be drawn.
"Everyone loves beauty", and human beings have been pursuing cosmetics to beautify themselves since ancient times.
The development history of cosmetics can be divided into the following four stages (also called four generations):
(1) The first generation used natural animal and vegetable oils for simple physical protection of the skin, that is, directly used various oils from animals, plants or minerals without chemical treatment.
Ancient Egyptians used animal and vegetable oils, mineral oils and plant flowers in religious ceremonies, mummy preservation and personal skin care and beauty care of imperial nobles more than 4,000 years ago.
The ancient Romans not only beautified and maintained the skin, hair, nails and lips, but also used Naples as a perfume manufacturing center to obtain pleasant fragrance and prevent insects in the wardrobe from eating it. The earliest perfumes were camphor, musk, sandalwood, lavender and clove oil.
From 7th century to12nd century, * * countries made important achievements in cosmetics production, represented by the invention of processing plant flowers by distillation, which greatly improved the output and quality of essential oils.
At the same time, cosmetics in China have also developed by leaps and bounds. There are records of thrush and lip-pointing in the ancient book Hanshu. In Qi Shu Yao Min, the powder with clove fragrance was introduced. Curry written by China and Han Yanzhi in Song Dynasty is the earliest fragrance monograph in the world.
② The second generation is cosmetics based on oil-water emulsification technology.
18, 19 After industrial revolution in europe in the century, chemistry, physics, biology and medicine got unprecedented development, and many new raw materials, equipment and technologies were applied to cosmetics production. Due to the development of surface chemistry, colloid chemistry, crystallization chemistry, rheology and emulsification theory, dielectric surfactant was introduced and HLB value method was adopted to solve the key problem of selecting emulsifier correctly.
Under the guidance of these scientific theories and people's practice in the future, cosmetics production has undergone tremendous changes, from the original primary small family production in the past to a new professional science and technology.
It is on this basis that China's cosmetics industry has become the fastest growing and most popular industry in China's light industry.
Even the famous FDA in the United States is considering changing its name to FDCA (Food, Drug and Cosmetics Management Company).
Administration).
③ The third generation is cosmetics extracted from various animals and plants.
The cosmetics are supplemented with essences such as Ainera and Hormoues extracted from the skins and viscera of natural plants or animals such as Gleditsia sinensis, fruit acid and papaya.
Supercritical CO2 extraction is an advanced extraction method, which improves the yield and extraction purity of effective substances, thus making them salty. Lingpin has been popular abroad for forty or fifty years, which makes it possible for people to pursue whitening, acne, freckle and wrinkle removal. Until now, some of these cosmetics are still very popular.
Functionalization; Functional cosmetic, which is also called therapeutic cosmetic or drug for short, is sometimes called quasi, which means it is between cosmetic (cosmetic) and drug.
④ The fourth generation is bionic cosmetics, that is, biological essence substances with similar structure and high affinity to human body are made by biotechnology, which are compounded into cosmetics to supplement, repair and regulate cytokines, so as to achieve the purpose of anti-aging and repairing damaged skin. This kind of cosmetics represents 2 1 century; The development direction of ling products.
These cosmetics are represented by bioengineering agents such as ceramide and genetic engineering agents such as deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and epidermal growth factor (EGF).
In order to make breast enhancement, slimming and skin rejuvenation possible to a certain extent.
Second, the development trend of cosmetics
The development of science and technology is endless, and the development of cosmetics industry will not stop, so which direction will cosmetics develop after the fourth generation? The author thinks that the subject of cosmetics is likely to rush to the nano-age together with many other disciplines (material science, medicine, bioengineering and agriculture, environment and agriculture, aerospace, microelectronics, optoelectronics and computer, etc.). ).
Nanometer (abbreviated as nm) is a unit of length, and one nanometer is equal to one billionth of a meter.
All substances (biological or abiotic) are composed of nano-sized particles, that is, the most basic elements, molecules and atoms.
Nanotechnology is a technology to manufacture and develop new products with molecular particles.
However, the nano-sized material particles often show different physical and chemical properties under normal conditions. As we all know, some metals show different physical and chemical properties at ultra-cold state than at normal temperature.
This ultrafine particle technology can also be called molecular assembly technology, and its purpose is to obtain nanostructured materials through physical treatment such as ultrafine grinding, homogenization, evaporation-condensation or chemical treatment such as gas phase, deposition, sol-gel, electrolysis and high temperature diffusion synthesis.
Nanotechnology has been applied to various industries, bringing great innovation to traditional industries, making many things that were thought impossible possible in the past and becoming one of the focuses of people's extensive attention.
Nanotechnology has also brought revolutionary changes to the beauty cosmetics industry. For example, the absorption coefficient of silicon and silicon compounds (such as Si02) prepared by nanotechnology can be increased by dozens of times compared with ordinary ones, which can replace the widely used and expensive ultraviolet protectants that are easy to cause skin allergies, and people can research and develop sunscreen cosmetics with special functions.
Another example is that the cosmetics industry is keen on using SOD.
SuperoxideDi *** utace (superoxide dismutase) is anti-aging, but the problem that SOD itself is difficult to be absorbed by the skin has been successfully solved by nanotechnology. Using nanotechnology to process Chinese herbal medicines can make the effective components in some Chinese herbal medicines have unexpected therapeutic effects. It has been reported that after the Chinese herbal medicine pollen is broken by nanotechnology, not only the skin is well absorbed, but also the health care effect is greatly improved.
The application of nanotechnology in cosmetic science research began in the 1990s. With the continuous progress of technology, Nikkei has explored many methods to improve and increase the efficacy of cosmetic active additives, to keep them stable and fresh, and to make them penetrate into the inner layer of skin smoothly and nourish deep cells, thus giving play to the skin care and treatment effects with twice the effort.
For example, in the research and development and production of cosmetic raw materials, due to the adoption of nanotechnology, active substances can also be wrapped in ultrafine particles with a diameter of only tens of nanometers (liposome encapsulation technology), thus effectively protecting the active substances, effectively controlling the release speed and prolonging the release time. At present, Germany and Switzerland are leading the world in this field.
According to the clinical experiments of relevant departments, the freckle removing effect of nano-vitamin E cosmetics is faster and more obvious than the passive freckle removing effect of general hydroquinone compounds, and it is safe, stable and has no toxic and side effects.
Third, the development of science and technology has promoted cosmetics science.
2 1 century, the more advanced the development of cosmetics technology, the more the inherent defects of traditional cosmetics need to be overcome by various emerging technologies.
As mentioned above, people are using nanotechnology to solve the problems of inactivation and transdermal absorption of active substances. Although it is popular to add little or no essence to cosmetics to advocate natural reduction of * * *, preservatives should be added. Because bacteria will inevitably invade and multiply in the circulation process from production to consumption and in the later use of consumers, various chemical preservatives must be added.
These preservatives not only kill harmful flora, but also destroy the effective active ingredients in cosmetics, so that a large number of active ingredients are attenuated and inactivated, and all kinds of preservatives are more or less * * * to the skin.
People are trying various methods to solve this problem. Some companies use advanced polymer room-temperature emulsifier and nanotechnology combined with ultra-micro emulsification technology to operate in strict aseptic production environment, and adopt refrigeration (0 ~ 10℃) in sales and storage to ensure that high bioactive ingredients are not damaged by environmental temperature, humidity and preservatives, and provide skin care products with high vitality and strong penetration.
In addition, Japan also introduced external magnetic technology to replace the cold storage and preservation technology in packaging to achieve more convenient purposes; In the United States, cosmetics themselves are magnetized and the effect is more perfect.
In addition, as we all know, skin care cosmetics are mainly made by homogenizing incompatible oil (phase) and water (phase) with emulsifiers, but the emulsifiers in traditional cosmetics are all compounds, including various surfactants, which are all chemically synthesized, which does not conform to the psychological convergence of returning to nature, nor does it meet the requirements of environmental protection, and will also bring a sense of * * * to the skin.
In recent years, lecithin and tea saponin extracted from soybean oil and tea seed oil have achieved certain results in making cosmetics, which are called natural surfactants, and more effective natural surfactants can be extracted from animal tissues.
A few years ago, the United States adopted a brand-new emulsifier invented by a professor at Tel Aviv University in Israel, extracted from marine life, and made the world's first commercial cosmetic without chemical emulsifier. Its batter is delicate and smooth, and it is very popular.
The micrograph shows that the particle size distribution is fine and uniform.
By adjusting different formulations and adopting different operation processes, stable creams and emulsions with different viscosities can be prepared, and the effect is very ideal.
Love cleanliness, love health and love beauty, which are endless human nature and will never change.
After thousands of years' use of primitive primary cosmetics in human society, while the natural science and industrial revolution in Europe flourished one or two hundred years ago, the cosmetics industry gradually improved its own discipline-cosmetic science (Co *** eticology) because of the strong support of science and technology, thus the establishment of cosmetic science and the development of cosmetic industry in the modern sense entered the second stage under the guidance of science and technology theory; With the development of chemical extraction and the participation of biotechnology genetic engineering, the development of cosmetics has rapidly entered the third and fourth generations.
The development of each generation is driven by the development of science and technology. With the development of information technology and bioengineering technology, and the arrival of a more brilliant nano-era, it will leave a deep impression on the cosmetics industry and bring more vigorous development.
Like other applied technologies, the development of beauty technology is not single. Cosmetics itself is an interdisciplinary frontier science, such as chemistry, physics, medicine, biology, aesthetics and so on. Its development is bound to be supplemented by many disciplines.
Only by using all kinds of knowledge and technology accumulated by human beings for many years can we solve all kinds of problems in cosmetics, and only in this way can the cosmetics industry develop more perfectly and create more perfect products for the benefit of the people.