From17th century to18th century, with the continuous rationalization of human behavior, the connotation of cautious underwear has gradually changed. It seems that this rationalization and connection has led to the criticism of "hypocritical artificial fashion" by the whole society, including the criticism of corset. In 1970s, another kind of "tight underwear" quietly rose among fashionable French women. It consists of two small bras with linen lining and no bone lining, which is very convenient to wear. You can tie it to your chest with a string or belt.
In the18th century, in the 1990s, people invented neoclassical women's long skirts with high waists. Although this kind of long skirt can and often is used with a long waist, it seems that a short and wide waist is more suitable.
1907- 19 10 years, the profile of fashionable busts gradually straightened, the waist became loose, but the hips became tight. A slim young woman only needs a bra and an unlined corset. This combination is called "Tango Tight Underwear", which is very elastic. Until about 19 19, most tight underwear still has two separate bra cups in front and tightened at the back.
Different kinds of new underwear also include side pants and tunics, which were invented in 1935 and can be worn in pants. This corset is often used with a bra. Of course, there are also basic corsets, which are often included in the category of tight underwear.
During most of the 20th century, tight-fitting underwear gradually turned into body-building underwear. Although people pay more and more attention to dieting and physical exercise, and although abdomen underwear is more and more diversified, until the end of 1960s, some underwear was still an indispensable protagonist in women's wardrobes. However, since then, tight underwear has not disappeared, but people began to lose weight and exercise actively, and it was replaced by plastic surgery. With the departure of the wheel of history in the 20th century, people's desire for strong bodies has mercilessly surpassed the behavior of empty underwear. However, in recent years, tight underwear has made a comeback and is developing in the direction of underwear wearing.
However, in the 19th century, bone-lined underwear not only made a comeback, but also became more powerful and violent. People regard the phenomenon of long skirts without corsets in neoclassicism as the result of social disorder in the Great Revolution. So corsets have become an indispensable part of women's fashion.
Due to technical innovation and fashion renovation, the style and shape of underwear have also changed a lot. Underwear is lengthened, the bottom ribbon is replaced by triangle and diamond cloth, there is a bra in front and a fixed back, which must be worn under the coat, mostly ordinary white cotton cloth and linen cloth. Between 1800 and 1870, the tight underwear is almost white.
The first tight underwear with front opening and steel lining was invented by French underwear dealer Jean Julian jocelyn in 1829, which enabled women to put on and take off their underwear without the help of others, but it didn't become popular until 1850.
In the 1960s, lined long skirts were very popular. Long skirts can make almost everyone's waist slim, while most tight underwear is very short. 1In the 1970s, short skirts became tight, while tight underwear became longer, which not only made the waist comfortable, but also wrapped the abdomen. This is the so-called armored tight underwear. In the 1980s, the spoon-shaped whale bone rest was very popular, forming an S-shaped curve, tightening the waist and widening the abdomen.
The first real tight underwear was formed sometime in the first half of16th century, when aristocratic women began to wear whale bone tight underwear. In other words, their cloth corsets began to add more durable materials such as whalebone, horn and hard cloth. This style originated in Spain and Italy, and then quickly became popular in European countries. This kind of underwear is worn between the chest and abdomen, which can make the waist more straight. This kind of underwear with a "pillar" in the center of its predecessor is called "corset". Add bones or columns on both sides to combine the plump body with the clothes that cling to the body almost seamlessly. The importance of figure, especially female figure, has been unconsciously improved in history.
The men in the ruling class don't wear this kind of cautious underwear, but they wear stiff cautious tops and cautious pants with trouser pockets in front. They insist on comfortable bodies, wear tailor-made clothes and show off their masculinity. In addition, soldiers in the sixteenth century did wear what the French called cautious underwear, which was actually a kind of armor to protect their trunks. People at that time had noticed the similarities between female and male breastplates.
Let me tell you about the development history of women's underwear in China ~ After all, it is our own culture ~
Underwear has a long history in China. Underwear is also called underpants, obscene clothes, sweaty clothes, contemptuous clothes, shameful clothes, heart-warming clothes, belly-hugging, belly-hugging, round waist, precious socks, terminalia chebula, blouses, belly-wiping, socks-bellies, socks skirts, waist towels, crotch, Chinese-style chest-covering and historical records. According to records, earlier underwear was called lewd clothes. "Book of Rites Under Tan Gong": "Ji Kangzi's mother died and Chen abused clothes. Jiang Jing said, "If a woman doesn't dress up, she is afraid to meet her aunt. There will be guests from all over the world. What's the point of abusing clothes? " "Yin" means "light books, not solemn", which shows the ancient people's mentality towards underwear. The following historical clues of underwear began in the Han Dynasty.
Han: Hold your belly and your heart.
The costumes in the early Han Dynasty were not prohibited by the people. Although the Western Han Dynasty had a clothing system with eight imperial edicts, it only required that clothing should conform to the four seasons. There is an obvious feature of women's deep clothes in this period: the skirt is extremely long, and it is wrapped around the body several times when put on, and every lace is exposed, which has a unique charm. And "belly support" is the underwear at this stage. Since the Eastern Han Dynasty, with the coat being cut into several triangles and overlapping pieces, underwear has also undergone a simpler change-called "heart coat". The upper end of the "holding the belly" is the "hook shoulder" and "crotch" instead of the thin belt.
The similarity between the two is that the back is bare and there is no back membrane. Plain silk is a common underwear fabric in Han Dynasty, and patterns are embroidered on it with colored silk threads (called colored embroidery), with the theme of "love". At that time, plain fabrics were rarely used to make underwear.
Wei and Jin Dynasties: (Sixteen Kingdoms): Two Dangs
Since Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, due to the political turmoil and the occupation of the Central Plains by the northern nationalities, the northern national costumes were introduced, which influenced and assimilated the northern national costumes.
Women wear clothes, shirts and skirts every day. Bags and shirts can also be used as shirts and shirts in dresses. At this time, the underwear is called "Two Dangs", which is different from "Holding the abdomen" and "Being convinced" in that it has a back piece, which can be used as both a chest and a back. Most of the materials are brocade with thick feel and rich colors, and double-layer cotton lining. "Liangdang" was originally the costume of nomadic people in the north, and later spread to the Central Plains, belonging to an alien culture.
Tang dynasty: terminalia chebula
A unified and prosperous country has bred a civilized and open clothing system, which has a far-reaching impact on future generations. People in the Tang Dynasty had frequent contacts with Persia, and other countries, and had close contacts with ethnic groups in the northwest, which influenced their costumes. Women's daily clothes in the Tang Dynasty are shirts, coats and skirts, which are more common to wear above and below. Red is the most popular skirt, followed by purple, yellow and green. But in the Tang Dynasty, from the original large-breasted underwear, more double-breasted underwear was used, and the skirt was open without buttons. In order to match the wearing of outerwear, the underwear in the Tang Dynasty has also undergone great changes: in the past, the shoulders of underwear were decorated with belts, and a strapless underwear called "Lanren" appeared in the Tang Dynasty. This is also determined by the shape and characteristics of their tops: women in the Tang Dynasty like to wear semi-naked skirts, which are tied high on the chest, and then tied with a wide belt under the chest, exposing the shoulders, upper chest and back, and covered with transparent gauze. In this way, the underwear fabric is elegant and colorful, which is quite similar to the "underwear wearing outside" advocated by Odifen today. In order to match this habit, underwear needs to show off the shoulders. The commonly used fabric of terminalia chebula is woven, which is quite stiff, slightly elastic and feels thick. When you wear it, you only need to tie two straps under your chest. "Weaving" ensures that the upper part of "terminalia chebula" will stand upright.
Song dynasty: tube top
In the Song Dynasty, a large area of land became the territory of Jurchen nobles, and costume culture also influenced each other because of its political and economic factors. As a mirror to continue the history, it records: "The customs and costumes of Lin 'an Prefecture have been chaotic for more than ten years, and they are used to frontier fortress ..." Therefore, since the Song Dynasty, women have had the habit of girding their bellies. Song women's daily clothes: coat, pole, blouse, half arm on the back, and culottes on the lower body. Its fabrics are silk, yarn, brocade, silk and so on. After wearing the "tube wipe", the whole chest and abdomen are covered, so it is also called "tube wipe". Tie a knot with a button or belt. Ordinary people use cotton products, commonly known as homespun, and nobles use silk products with embroidery on them. Single clip, different forms.
Yuan dynasty: acacia lapels
When Mongols entered the Central Plains, they not only inherited the system of the Han nationality, but also carried out their own system. During the Dade period of the Yuan Dynasty, the clothes of scholars between Mongolia and Han were all in their own way. Women's wear, rich people wear mink and fur hats. Generally, sheepskin and felt are used as clothing materials. At that time, robes were wide and long, and they were often used as dresses. The main feature of underwear in Yuan Dynasty is that it is tied from back to front. Wear it from the back to the front, with a row of buttons on the chest, or use a rope. The lapels of acacia are mostly made of brocade, and the patterns are continuous in four directions.
Ming dynasty: apron skirt
After Zhu Yuanzhang overthrew the Yuan Dynasty and established the Ming Empire, he first banned Hu Fu, Hu Yu and Hu's surname, and later issued an imperial edict in the name of Ming Taizu: Dressed like Tang. In the Ming dynasty, women's dresses stipulated that folk women could only use purple, not gold embroidery. Robes can only be purple, pink and light, not red, crow green and yellow. This belt is made of blue silk. Button styles have appeared on clothes in the Ming Dynasty. Ming underwear named "apron skirt" is similar in appearance to vest, with three lapels, a crotch on the shoulder, a belt on the crotch and a lace around the waist, which can adjust the waist. It can be seen that women in Ming dynasty have mastered the method of highlighting their figure. An apron skirt is similar to a vest in appearance. The lapel has three lapels, a crotch on the shoulder, a belt on the crotch, and a tie on the waist side to tie all lapels, forming an obvious waist. It can be seen that women in Ming dynasty have mastered the method of highlighting their figure.
Qing dynasty: Chinese-style corset
In the Qing dynasty, women's clothing was also retained in the Manchu-Han period. Manchu women mainly wear robes, while Han women wear tops and skirts. In the middle of Qing Dynasty, Han imitated each other, and later Han imitated the Han nationality, and Han imitated Manchu costumes, which were popular among dignitaries and ladies. By the Qing Dynasty, there were more and more styles and varieties of women's clothes, such as vests, wrap clothes, skirts, coats, epaulettes, scarves, hand cages, tube tops, belts, glasses and so on. Underwear in Qing dynasty was called "Chinese-style chest covering" and was generally made into a diamond shape. There is a belt on it, worn between the neck and tied with two belts at the back of the waist. The bottom is an inverted triangle, covering the navel and reaching the lower abdomen. Most materials are cotton and silk. The strap used for binding is not limited to rope. Rich families use gold chains, middle families use silver chains and copper chains, and small jasper uses HongLing. There are all kinds of exquisite embroidery on the "belly pocket". Red is a common color in Chinese corsets.
1920s and 1930s: Small Vests
The "small vest" is narrow in shape, usually with a pair of lapels, and there are several buttons on the lapels, which tightly wrap the chest and waist after being put on. The "small vest" has further developed and absorbed some characteristics of the west, becoming the current bra. The fabrics are mainly cotton and silk.