It is best to use annual thick branches for cutting, and branches that are too old or too tender will affect the survival rate of cutting. Branches need to have 2 or 3 bud eyes, leaving only one or two leaves. If the leaves are too big, they need to be cut small, so that photosynthesis can be carried out without consuming more nutrients.

2. Cutting rooting stage

Insert the bottom of the branch into the substrate, and the growth direction of the leaf must be upward, not backward. The cutting success rate of passion fruit is the highest in spring, summer and autumn. As long as the substrate remains moist and does not accumulate water when cutting takes root. A month or so, passion fruit will sprout a lot of fibrous roots, and then it can be used for the next seedling raising.

3. Transplanting into a seedling cup

The purpose of seedling cultivation is to make passion fruit grow stronger, so that it can blossom and bear fruit more smoothly when transplanted into pots.

You can use disposable cups, make several holes in the bottom to drain water, first pad a few centimeters of fluffy matrix (I use perlite and shredded coconut), then put the rooted passion fruit seedlings in the middle, then slowly fill them up, and finally pour the root water thoroughly. Put it in a sunny place, keep the substrate moist, and transplant it into a pot after one month. If all goes well, the passion fruit cut in spring will blossom and bear fruit that year.