In addition to the factional struggles and conflicts within the Hanfu circle, many people still have an argument about Hanfu: Hanfu looks good, but it is too inconvenient. How to work in it?
In fact, today we saw all kinds of Hanfu worn by ladies in the street, all of which were worn by ancient princes and nobles. In addition to this "elegant" Hanfu that is not conducive to action, there is also a "dusty" Hanfu style-bunting.
If you like Hanfu, but you are worried that it is inconvenient to wear Hanfu, you can try this Hanfu style that belongs to civilians. You can put it on directly and rush to the front line of labor.
What does a bunt look like?
Colorful flags are a kind of ancient Hanfu, also known as "vertical brown" and "brown" (also read as "shù hè").
At first, short brown originally refers to a coat woven from coarse linen or animal hair, and later it is extended to ordinary people's work clothes and casual clothes (usually divided into tops and trousers).
Because the people who wore bunts in ancient times were flat-headed people, the shape of this kind of clothes basically did not appear in tombs, murals and other places, so today we can only learn about this kind of clothing from operas and movies.
In all kinds of plays about Water Margin, Song Wu's suit is "colorful flag".
Song Wu's "skin" even helped him beat Ximen Qing!
Don't believe it? Let's analyze it.
Words Song Wu went straight to Lion Building, he was wearing colorful flags, while Ximen Qing was wearing a gown.
Song Wu came here to kill people, so he wore bunt, and Ximen Qing came to dinner. He was a local tyrant, so he wore a coat.
This detail brought the opposite results to the two. Song Wu was agile because he was wearing a bunt, while Ximen Qing was tied with his hands behind his back, coupled with the physical vanity caused by years of debauchery. Although he was also a practitioner, he soon fell behind.
Finally, Ximen Qing was kicked downstairs by Song Wu and his head was cut off.
Obviously, in the life-and-death struggle, Song Wu's colorful flag clothing is more dominant!
The colorful flags in Chinese opera can also reflect the beauty of Hanfu's modeling, the stretching of its figure, the popularity of martial arts and the compactness of its plot.
For example, walking, which is one of the basic skills of martial arts actors, usually shows the situation that martial arts actors sneak in lightly, and is often used in specific occasions such as reconnaissance, inspection, night walking, surprise attack or charge.
Walking needs agility, lively rhythm, lightness and stability, so bunting is the standard dress.
Knight's "standard uniform"
The "shorts" on the stage are also often called "tights", and friends who love to read martial arts novels must be familiar with this term.
After the Hong Kong and Taiwan martial arts film and television dramas represented by Jin Yong's works became popular, the chivalrous people also had their own "skin". Because there is no precedent, the costumes of the military people basically follow the settings of the opera and make a few changes.
The most prominent example in this respect is the martial arts film "One-armed Knife King" shot by Hong Kong Shaw Pictures 1969, in which Wang Fanggang, the one-armed knife played by Wang Yu, is a bunt.
In the movie, the hero is set as a peerless swordsman, and he really knows martial arts, so this dress not only doesn't give people a low feeling, but looks particularly heroic.
The violent martial arts films directed by Zhang Che won the love of John Chiang and Tommy Tam, and Song Wu played by Tommy Tam and Yan Qing played by John Chiang were also deeply loved. Dangkouzhi has wonderful martial arts scenes, especially in Dangkouzhi near John Chiang. Because it is in the novel, David Jiang shows his kung fu by wearing a tight-fitting bunt.
In the film, Shi Wengong also played opposite Lin Chong and Lu Junyi successively. As fellow disciples, their moves are basically the same. In that era when there were no special effects, even today, it was very enjoyable. Three people's clothes are colorful flags, crisp and neat, and Lu Junyi's actor Zhelang Tamba even shows an arm, which looks very tough.
And if you don't wear bunts, but daily robes and big sleeves, you can't reach Zhang Che's violent aesthetics anyway.
As a result, the time-honored "colorful flag" has changed from the exclusive costume of ordinary people to the martial arts costume on the stage, and naturally it has become the "standard uniform" of the chivalrous people.
The evolution of bunt
As a civilian costume, "bunt" originally focused on the simplicity of clothing. However, as this kind of costume enters the field of traditional Chinese opera and martial arts film and television, its "power" is gradually improving, so that the so-called "short play" that Hanfu circles are talking about now is quite different from the ancient "Brown".
The early "bunting" is very similar to the modeling in Hong Kong and Taiwan martial arts films in all aspects, and it can be said that this time is very similar to ancient times.
Soon after, "True Bunt" evolved into "Hanfu Bunt". Its lapel style is becoming more and more diversified, and its color is no longer the dark gray of linen and felt, but its basic characteristics of short coat and narrow sleeves cannot be changed, otherwise it will no longer be a bunt.
With the decline of drama and martial arts, the "exposure rate" of colorful flags in people's field of vision is also declining.
The main reasons are as follows:
The colorful flags look ugly. Because of the convenience and daily life of colorful flags, merchants were once very keen to change them into household clothes for sale. However, because this kind of clothing was developed by ordinary people in ancient times for the convenience of work, there is not much aesthetic consideration and the sales volume is not good.
Moreover, drama and martial arts drama also pay more attention to the practicality of "colorful flags", and the transformation in "aesthetics" is better than nothing.
Therefore, "bunt" is gradually forgotten and eliminated in the modern life of increasingly pursuing beauty.
Hanfu Daily, should bunting be promoted?
Nowadays, more and more people in Hanfu circle are keen to play emperors, queens and generals. The worst thing is the Royal Guards, and the "colorful flags" representing ordinary people are naturally unpopular.
In addition, many Hanfu Party hobbies are exactly the same as cosplay, and they simply pursue "good-looking and durable" instead of "restoring the shape", so there will be no living space for "colorful flags".
However, the difficulties encountered by "bunting" are not unique to China.
Most of the national costumes reserved by East Asian countries, such as Japanese kimono and Korean hanbok, only retain the shape of "dress", that is, costumes that can only be worn on major occasions, and civilian costumes have also disappeared.
It is true to pursue the beauty of traditional costumes, but after all, ancient people generally wear "bunts" that are not so beautiful. Moreover, bunting proves that Han people have a martial spirit besides opposing poetry, which is undeniable.
In the circle of Hanfu, there are people who really like Hanfu, but there are also many people who tear X, just staying on the beautiful "show", ostensibly expressing themselves and being moved by themselves.
Hanfu should be daily, and colorful flags should be improved, popularized and developed under the premise of aesthetics.