/kloc-after the 1940s, wonton vendors stopped picking and set up stalls instead. This kind of wonton Nan Er T is a two-wheeled vehicle about 2 meters long, with a stove and a soup pot at one end and a wooden board for stacking sundries at the other end, on which diners eat.
This kind of baggage and the stall selling wonton have disappeared. Wonton, an ancient traditional snack in China, has different names in history. Sichuan people call it "Dragon Wonton", Guangdong people call it "Wonton" and Beijing people call it "Wonton". As early as the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Qi Shu called it Huntun and Ziyuan.
Wonton. So wonton is at least 1500 years old. Through the investigation of historical materials, it is found that gourmets in various dynasties have many works that link the winter solstice solar terms with wonton.
During the reign of Qianlong and Jiaqing in the early Qing Dynasty, Wu Yucheng recorded in "Drinking Essays": "There is an open space at the main entrance of the capital, commonly known as the abbot Xu, who has pierced his ears. Suddenly, a beautiful man came to Yongzheng, dressed in soap clothes, and I don't know who. He built a building in the space and made wonton in the city. It was delicious. Despite the heat, the night is unbeaten, the eater wants it, and the money is not counted. " This story about Beijing Wonton Restaurant is fascinating, vivid and mysterious. Indeed, in old Beijing, there are many wonton pickpockets selling in the street. Generally, they peddle in the street every afternoon and set up stalls in fixed places at night and night. Their shouts of "Wonton Boiled ……" are familiar to old Beijingers, and they are rich and far away in the streets and can be heard in several courtyards. The business of selling wonton in downtown area is also booming, and Beijingers especially like to eat wonton. In the past, there was a small briquette stove in front of the wonton pole in Beijing, on which a drying dish was placed, and bowls, soy sauce pots and so on could be placed around the dish. A pot is placed in the central round hole, and a large plate of meat stuffing is placed on the upper layer of the high square cabinet at the back, so that wonton can be wrapped at any time; There are several small drawers in the middle, which contain wonton skin, soup spoon bowl, Beijing and winter vegetables, shrimp skin and so on. Be placed; Put a bucket on the lower floor, add soup at any time, package, cook and sell.
Yang Jingting, a man of A Qing Dynasty, spoke highly of Shi Jing's wonton in his book Doumenlue. He said, "Wonton is delicious, and the stuffing melts in the leek in spring, and it tastes delicious. Tang Qingrun's kiss is not light, and it tastes long after swallowing. " Describe the delicious wonton. On the solstice of winter, the longest night of the year, hot and delicious wonton will become the protagonist on the table of ordinary people. Anyone named after a snack variety has a unique skill. The name of "wonton Hou" is Hou Mingting Jie. When I was a child, I sold newspapers. When I was young, I worked as a railway patrol for several years to support my family. Later, I stole the craft of making wonton and learned it from others. 1946, I set up a wonton stall with the money I usually saved, and finally moved to Dong 'anmen Street 16 to sell wonton. There is a curtain hanging on the back wall of the booth. The background color of the curtain is purple, with three striking Chinese characters "Hundun Hou" written on it. The curtains are decorated with doves of peace. Because it was the period to resist US aggression and aid Korea, these pigeons symbolized peace and represented the individual businessmen's desire for peace and social stability.
The development of wonton Hou began with the "public-private partnership" of 1956. At that time, it was decided to merge seven wonton stalls in four hutongs, namely vegetable factory, ladder, big shamao and cypress. 1959, with the assistance of Dongcheng District Commercial Management Committee, seven stall owners selected the paved house at Dong 'anmen Street 1 1, which was originally paved by Xiang Desheng Shaobing. Hou Tingjie is the team leader. After consulting with other partners, it was named "Chaos Hou". It is said that at that time, I just found a brand and painted it with white paint, which said "Beijing-style wonton". Since then, the wonton stall has finally landed, and with the first store, "wonton Hou" was born. At that time, Dong 'anmen and Wangfujing were the most prosperous business districts in Beijing, with People's Art Theatre, Dong 'an Market and Auspicious Theatre. If there is a play at night, the pedestrians in the street are bustling. In addition, after the performance, people are willing to eat supper. There are seven or eight stalls selling wonton here, and many customers are looking for stalls selling wonton. At that time, there were four comments on wonton Hou: thin skin, fine stuffing, fine soup and fresh four-person relationship. Suppose he rolled wonton skin. This job is very hard, not using standard flour, but a batch of particularly rich flour. After waking up, roll the dough into a paper-thin translucent wonton skin with a rolling pin more than one meter long.
It is said that once Comrade Guo Moruo passed by the stall of wonton Hou, gave a thumbs-up after tasting wonton, and even praised it. Lao Guo couldn't help admiring Hou Tingjie's skill in wrapping wonton: "It's fast and beautiful. Can you tell me what this means? " Hou Tingjie replied humorously: "This can be called' diving'." Since then, many celebrities in the literary and art circles have often visited. The reputation of "wonton Hou" also spread like wildfire. Traveler magazine (April, 1957) later published an article "Night in Beijing" written by Mr. Jin Shoushen, and the illustration was pen-and-ink painting by Mr. Yu. In the foreground, a row of people are sitting on wooden benches eating wonton, and in the background, a cloth tent is hung with three Chinese characters "wonton Hou" written on it.
By 1956, seven wonton stalls of Houjia, Liangjia,,, and two wonton stalls of Zhang's scattered at the entrance of Donghuamen and Dashamao Hutong have set up cooperation groups. Everyone elected Hou Tingjie as the team leader. 1959, seven stall owners decided that setting up a stall outside was not a long-term solution and decided to open a frontispiece. With the help of the District Commercial Management Committee, they chose Xiang Desheng Sesame Shop (Wonton Old House) to sell wonton together. With the frontispiece, you can afford the font size. Come on, everyone. Hou Tingjie is smart and is the team leader. It's called "wonton Hou". So I applied for registration, found a brand, painted it with white paint, and wrote "wonton Hou" with Beijing flavor. From then on, the name "wonton Hou" was born. Originally, street snacks entered the store, which was very popular with Beijingers and the business was very prosperous. "In those days, Premier Zhou hosted a banquet for foreign guests, and invited Fu Hou of wonton restaurant to be a guest several times. Chen Bao Zeng, nephew of An, one of the seven founders of "Wonton Hou", once wrote a reminiscence article "I made wonton for the Prime Minister". 1960 At the beginning of the year, the Prime Minister visited India, and then Indian Prime Minister Nehru invited Premier Zhou to taste Indian wonton. When Nehru paid a return visit to China, Premier Zhou hosted a banquet in the Great Hall of the People, and specially arranged a local snacks, namely "after wonton" Jingwei wonton. In the early 1960s, "Wonton Hou" was impacted by the Cultural Revolution. Zhang, one of the founders, affectionately called Hou Tingjie "Hou Er" when recalling the past. It is said that Hou Er was criticized for the name "wonton Hou". The rebel side said that the name was "sealed and repaired" and renamed "wonton Hou" as "Sixin" restaurant. Wonton is not the main business, but sells noodles, mixed rice and wowotou instead. Customers not only buy tickets to serve food, but also wash dishes themselves. It was not until 1980 that this time-honored brand was restored.
There are 64 chain stores in Beijing, and there are hundreds more. However, the wonton in dozens of direct stores and franchisees all tastes the same.