Guangdong people's love for rice rolls is just like Wuhan people's love for Regan Noodles, just like Sichuan people's love for hot pot, just like Xi people's love for Chinese hamburger.
Rice rolls shops can be seen everywhere in the street. Can you say that they are all made of rice? That's definitely impossible. Some merchants make it with batter, but rice rolls rice paste is different from broken rice, so it can be eaten.
To make a plate of rice rolls, rice paste is the soul. Rice slurry made of rice is smooth and delicious.
There are many kinds of rice used to grind rice rolls rice paste. The owner of a shop I am familiar with said that the rice he grinds is ground by old rice. To soak rice, soak it overnight in advance, and then put it into a stone mill to grind it into rice slurry.
If you grind it like this, it will be very refreshing. If you mix powder, it will be more powerful. If you grind it with rice, it will not be smooth.
A small pile of rice rolls, if you want to cook delicious, you can't cut corners in the process. This also forms the crux of the same street, that is, they are all engaged in rice rolls, some businesses have good business, and some businesses have poor business.
Compared with greasy Regan Noodles, beancurd skin and noodles, breakfast in Guangzhou is like being fished out of rice paste. Rice noodles, river noodles, rice rolls, Chencun noodles ... all kinds of flour occupy half of the breakfast in Guangzhou.
And the king of these powders is undoubtedly rice rolls.
And a dish of good rice rolls, when produced, should be shiny. The ingredients in the package are looming, so it should be smooth and delicious. It must not be as elastic and tough as rice flour, and the seasoning should reach the soul of Cantonese cuisine-fresh.
It is not easy to be such a rice rolls. Rice paste, steaming, stuffing and sauce should not be taken lightly.
Rice milk
A good rice rolls vermicelli should be fine, fragrant, slippery and tough to bite, which depends entirely on the choice of rice and the grinding of rice paste.
There is no uniform standard for rice selection, and many stores may have to try more than ten meters to find the most suitable one.
There is no right or wrong between new rice and old rice. Some people choose to use new rice, while others prefer to use old rice. Generally speaking, the fragrance of new rice is stronger, while the rice rolls made by old rice is smoother and thinner, but these will also be influenced by different varieties of rice.
Soaking rice is also very particular. Generally, it should be soaked three to eight hours in advance, shorter in summer and longer in winter.
Therefore, what kind of rice to choose, whether to use new rice or old rice, or what to mix and how long to soak, all constitute the core competitiveness of a rice rolls store.
However, it is very hard to make rice rolls with pure rice pulp. In summer, when the temperature is high, you only need to soak rice three or four hours in advance, but rice rolls's shop is in the breakfast business, and it often stays up until midnight.
Moreover, even if rice is planted in the same field, the quality of rice will be different in different years, which requires very high experience of operators.
Therefore, in order to ensure the stability of products, many restaurants use sticky rice flour instead of rice paste, and then add cooked flour, chestnut flour and raw flour to improve its texture and taste, so that it can be used to make rice rolls.
The rice rolls made in this way actually tastes good, but it still lacks some rice flavor.
steaming
After the rice slurry is ready, the next step is to steam it in the pot.
According to different steaming methods, rice rolls can also be divided into three types: nest basket diarrhea, bra diarrhea and drawer diarrhea.
Diarrhea in a basket is the earliest way to make rice rolls. Pour the rice paste into a flat basket woven with bamboo sticks, sprinkle with stuffing and steam in a steamer. Because it takes a lot of effort and land, few people do it in rice rolls now.
Not the sausage in the basket, but the sausage. Pour the ground rice slurry evenly on the finely woven cloth, cover it and steam it.
Although "cloth" is not an ingredient, it is indeed the key to making Bra sausage. "Dacron" cloth is generally used, because its cloth is smooth and can reduce the wrinkles on the surface of vermicelli.
However, due to the general surface fluidity of cloth, it is very easy to make the thickness of vermicelli uneven. Therefore, after pouring the rice paste, it is necessary to push the rice paste evenly in all directions by hand to ensure uniform heating, which is a great test of Master rice rolls's craftsmanship.
With the increase of demand, the production of traditional sausages is still too slow, so someone improved the multi-layer steamer and appeared the drawer sausage.
Pour the rice slurry into the iron plate, spread the stuffing, and then steam it in a steamer. Because the fluidity of the iron plate surface is better, the product of drawer sausage is thinner.
Either way, the steaming of rice rolls must be strong, so that the taste will be smooth.
In recent years, there has been a debate about whether bra sausage or drawer sausage is better or worse. In fact, it is the rice paste, the master's skill and the steaming time that determine the taste of rice rolls. Steaming tools will certainly have an impact on the taste, but it is not as exaggerated as many people describe.
Of course, Bra sausage has higher technical requirements for Master rice rolls, which may be the reason why many people think it tastes better.
infilling
There is a question on the Zhihu: "What's the smell of rice rolls?" A friend in Guangdong replied: You can think of it as a steamed stuffed bun, which tastes just like what's inside.
Eggs, pork, beef, pork liver and shrimp can all be used as fillings in rice rolls. Generally speaking, the fillings in rice rolls are not particularly complicated. There are at most one or two fillings in a rice rolls.
Of course, rice rolls can also be made into vegetarian rice rolls without any stuffing, also called vegetarian rice rolls. Only in this way can the original rice flavor and smooth and elastic tooth taste be reflected in rice rolls.
There is also a special rice rolls called "Fried Two", in which rice rolls is wrapped in deep-fried dough sticks and two kinds of snacks are combined into one. Generally speaking, rice rolls stores sell less fried rice and porridge stores sell more, because fried rice and porridge are a perfect match.
Sauce
Sauce is the crowning touch of rice rolls.
Sauce is not a simple soy sauce. It is made by adding water, broth, rock sugar, oyster sauce and spices to soy sauce.
This practice can reduce the salty taste of soy sauce and set off the umami taste of rice rolls.
For many rice rolls stores, the unique sauce is also the core competitiveness.
I don't know about other places and other stores. I make 100% pure rice rice rolls.
I come from rice rolls, a small town in rice rolls, where rice rolls was born. Engaged in rice rolls of Damangshan for more than 20 years.
The rice rolls I make is Chen Yi-nian's early rice, which is soaked from 12 to 1 every morning, and usually milled at 4 o'clock.
Rice must be early rice, and it is early rice in Chen Yi (the old year). How tender and smooth this rice noodle is.
1, raw materials: leek, peanut oil, soy sauce, eggs, minced meat, flour and water.
2, tools, rice rolls, bucket, spoon, scraper.
3. put the flour in a bucket, add water, the ratio is half, and then stir with a spoon until it becomes slurry.
4. Heat rice rolls with coal and pull out rice rolls's drawers. There are generally five drawers. Put rice paste in the drawer with a spoon, then beat an egg and put it down, or put some minced meat to flatten it. The thickness is about 0.3, not too thick, or not ripe in the middle, delicious.
5. Steam in rice rolls for about 2 minutes.
6. Pull out the drawer, scrape off the steamed rice rolls with a scraper and put it on a plate.
7. Add chopped green onion, peanut oil and soy sauce, and you can eat.
Pure rice pulp is healthy and nutritious, suitable for all ages, and a classic breakfast.