Source: Oriental cuisine
Zhang Yongxiang, the chef of Piyun Huifu, advocates abandoning "triple" and keeping "triple"
To develop and revitalize Anhui cuisine, we must first inherit the essence of Anhui cuisine and discard things that are not suitable for the current market. In the past, the cooking methods of heavy salt, heavy meat oil and heavy dark color produced by regional characteristics are incompatible with the current safe, nutritious and green consumption concept and should be abandoned.
On the other hand, we should inherit the essence of Anhui cuisine: "emphasizing raw materials, original flavor and heat".
Fine selection of materials and rigorous production have always been the style characteristics of Anhui cuisine, but this point has been ignored in the process of promoting Anhui cuisine. Taking the traditional Anhui dish "Stinky Mandarin Fish" as an example, when introducing it, it is often not stated that the raw material must be fresh mandarin fish, which is cooked after certain processing and pickling, which makes many people misunderstand.
Huizhou is located in the middle of East China, which provides a good ecological environment for the development of Huizhou cuisine. Maintaining the original flavor on the basis of paying attention to the essence, true colors and finished products of raw materials is another essence of Huizhou cuisine, which coincides with the modern concept of "naked cooking".
The chef season in Piyun Huifu, Huangshan Mountain advocates four "naked cooking" techniques to help.
To develop new Anhui cuisine, we should talk about "naked cooking". I think we can use four traditional technologies:
1, fresh rock sugar-soup sugar 20∶ 1, salt sugar 3∶ 1.
Fresh rock sugar is suitable for small fire stews and stir-fry Salt can improve the taste, and rock sugar can improve the freshness. Young chefs may ask, why not use other sugar to refresh themselves? In fact, this is also the result of many years of research by Huizhou cuisine masters. Because rock candy is made of miscellaneous grains, it has its own fragrance and lubrication, which makes the taste fuller. In cooking, we should pay attention to the proportion of adding rock sugar. If 5 kg of soup is used for stew, 250 g of rock sugar is appropriate, and the ratio of salt to rock sugar is 3∶ 1. Too much rock sugar will rob the main flavor, and too little will not play a refreshing role.
2, ham seasoning-sliced, diced, shredded into the dish is appropriate.
Ham produces food enzymes in the curing process, which can be converted into amino acids, which can produce special umami flavor, which can not only add salty flavor to dishes, but also contribute to umami flavor and produce compound flavor. Ham is suitable for slow stew. Because its meat is firewood, it is better to cut it into thin slices, diced and shredded. On the one hand, it is easy to taste the raw materials, on the other hand, it tastes good.
3, the fragrance does not go-raise the cover to protect the fragrance.
Huizhou cuisine pays attention to the cover and heightens the cover. Gao Gai has scientific principles. When the raw materials are heated, the aroma will run up. If the lid is flat, the aroma will escape from the gap in the edge of the pot under the action of pressure. When the lid is high, the hot air will rise, and when it is cold, it will become water and flow back to the pot, and the aroma will not be lost. This can preserve the original flavor of the ingredients to the maximum extent.
4, rotten without slag-sugar before salt is very important.
Anhui cuisine pays attention to rot without residue. In fact, this is a bidding problem. Sugar can decompose food. When stewing meat, sugar should be put before salt, so that the meat is tender and the stewing time can be shortened. If you put salt first, the meat will get old for a long time; Sugar can also help protein separate, so if you put sugar in the soup first, the soup will be whiter.
Li Bin, the chef of Huangshan Piyun Variety Show, advocated three measures to let MSG be laid off.
We now advocate monosodium glutamate-free cooking, and the traditional technology of Anhui cuisine can completely solve this problem.
"Ham seasoning, crystal sugar to enhance freshness, cooking wine to remove fishy smell and enhance fragrance" is a common cooking method of Anhui cuisine. Keeping the original flavor and paying attention to the heat is a major feature of traditional Anhui cuisine. In the cooking process, we not only use large fire, medium fire, small fire and warm fire to cook a single dish, but also use different methods according to different time. Anhui stew pays attention to the mellow and delicious soup, which is crisp and tender, and some dishes are stewed with charcoal fire.
Our main dish-Anhui famous dish "Taibai Fish Head" inherits the essence of Anhui cuisine. Its raw materials are fine and fresh, and the fish head is taken from the organic fish of Qiandao Lake, which is supplied in limited quantities every day; The soybean used for tofu is "June Yellow" on the bank of Xin 'anjiang River, which is refined by stone grinding process and is pure landscape tofu; Water is pure and sweet spring water, which is really "heavy taste".
It takes more than two hours to cook "Taibai Fish Head", and we should pay attention to exerting our skills, seeking novelty by law, seeking novelty by work, and exhausting the delicacies in the strangeness.
Zhang Xiaohu, chef of Piyun Villa in Shexian County, advocated the evolution of 68 species of Taibai fish heads.
A chef should not only be able to cook, but also innovate and package dishes. Dish innovation can't be imitated blindly, nor can it be abandoned blindly. But on the basis of inheriting and carrying forward the tradition, winning the market and meeting people's psychological and daily consumption needs, it is endowed with new ideas and new means.
Today's Anhui cuisine innovation is also threefold, that is, "emphasizing market, health and culture". The ultimate goal of innovation is to gain market recognition. Green health is a fashionable concept in today's society, and the innovation of Anhui cuisine also requires us to create a healthy selling point.
The innovation of dishes is also inseparable from culture. The unique history and development background of Anhui cuisine provide a good foundation for the cultural packaging of dishes. To develop Anhui cuisine, it is necessary to highlight the "cultural" atmosphere so that guests can feel the connotation of food culture during dining.
For example, the famous Anhui cuisine "Taibai Fish Head" has 68 different series, including spring, summer, autumn and winter, elderly, middle-aged men, middle-aged women, youth and children, which are developed for different people with different constitutions and form a whole set.
Zhang Henglai, chef of Piyun Mountain Villa in Shexian County, advocates creating food with five senses.
Eating in other places is only with the mouth, but we strive to innovate in Piyun Huifu and create delicious food that the five senses can experience together.
1, experience with your eyes
In the cold dish room, with the help of the images of emblem, ink, paper and inkstone in Huizhou Four Treasures of the Study, all kinds of cold dishes are made into exquisite works of art full of ancient Huizhou culture. In Dianfang, the "Huizhou Three Carvings"-brick carving, wood carving and stone carving are used as containers, and all kinds of snacks with bright colors, vivid shapes and delicious fillings are particularly charming.
Step 2 experience your nose
We put two traditional Huizhou charcoal stoves in the Zero Hall, one baked sweet potato and the other baked Tunxi crab shell yellow sesame seed cake. Walking into the ordering area, a fragrance came to the nose. There are also two pairs of strange, scientific and applicable pickaxes, one selling snacks and hairy tofu, and the other selling small wonton with heart emblem. When the guests walk down the aisle, they will feel the excitement brought by China on the tip of their tongue again.
Step 3 experience with your ears
Whenever you dine in Piyun House, you will hear the sound of gongs and drums. Two young people in ancient costumes were carrying Taibai fish heads, and there was a red seal on the casserole for the host and guest to uncover. Another Huizhou folk fried rice and egg soup has a casserole on the wooden frame and fried rice in the casserole. The waiter took the copper pot and poured it into the white soup. With a bang, the rice grains jumped up and the steam rose. And garlic eggplant stone pot. Steamed tomato strips are put in a hot pot, topped with garlic paste and red pepper sauce, which is greasy and crisp.
4. Experience with your mouth
Of course, when your five senses are moving, your mouth will certainly not be idle. Authentic, delicious and mellow Huizhou cuisine will completely immerse your mouth in this experience.
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