It winds from northwest to southeast in Beijing170km, making it the largest river in Beijing. If the Yongding River, Juma River, Chaobai River, Wenyu River and Jiaohe River together constitute the Beijing Plain, then the plain geological layer paved like tree rings can prove that Yongding River, with the longest river channel and the widest basin, played a vital role in the process of moving mountains and filling the sea.
The unruly Yongding River, which has been flooded for many times in history, has suffered from drought for years, sewage is discharged directly, the river is blocked for water storage, and the coastal vegetation is destroyed. Since 1970s, its water volume has been decreasing year by year, and finally it has been cut off. After the river was cut off, the river became sandy and full of holes, and domestic garbage and construction garbage were piled up everywhere. The ballad "Yongding River originates in the Western Hills, and the clear water surrounds Beijing Bay", which was widely circulated in Beijing decades ago, has become people's yearning for the beautiful scenery along the Yongding River.
Regular water replenishment from Sanggan River and Yanghe River in the upstream to Yongding River in the downstream began in 2003, but for Yongding River, which has been dry for a long time, this kind of water replenishment is tantamount to a drop in the bucket. From 20 10 to 20 13, Beijing implemented the "five lakes and one wetland" project of Yongding River, including Chengmen Lake, Shilian Lake, Xiaoyue Lake, Wanping Lake, Yuanbo Lake, water pipelines and the wetland of Garden Expo Park, etc., and managed the river with a length of 18.4 km, and restored the water surface with reclaimed water for 400 km. The Master Plan for Comprehensive Management and Ecological Restoration of Yongding River, promulgated and implemented in 2000, became the first river regulation document across provinces and cities. As one of the important tasks of the coordinated development of Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei, the provinces and cities in Yongding River Basin have joined hands to repair the ecosystem of this big river. The Yellow River flows through Sanggan River and Yanghe River, and is introduced into the upper reaches of Guanting Reservoir from Wanjiazhai Reservoir at the junction of Shanxi and Inner Mongolia, Ce Tian Reservoir in Shanxi and Friendship Reservoir in Hebei. Then, discharge the water from Guanting Reservoir to the middle and lower reaches. This year is the second year of ecological water replenishment in Yongding River. Since Guanting Reservoir released water on April 20th, the scale of water supply from the Yellow River Diversion Project to Yongding River has been the highest in the past years. The Yongding River in Beijing has been flooded for the first time in 25 years, and the Beida River, which has been cut off for 40 years, has regained its vitality.
I used to drive on the national highway 109 by Yongding River, and there was a problem that puzzled me. Why is the river from Wang Ping to Xiaweidian still dry? Later, I learned that all rivers are led to power stations through underground pipes and culverts for hydropower generation. At present, Guanting Reservoir Power Station, Xiamaling Power Station of Zhuwo Reservoir and Xiaweidian Power Station of Luopoling Reservoir, all of which have stopped running. After 40 years of drought, the river from Wangping to Xiaweidian once again ushered in the surging river. The Yellow River water from afar not only makes Yongding River rich in resources, but also greatly improves its water quality.
Standing on the Dingjiatan Bridge and watching the Yongding River winding from Cangshan to Cangshan, I can't help but think of the words of the coastal residents. In the early years, Yongding River was flooded with fish and shrimp. A plate of braised carp, cooked in pairs, listening to magazines in the shade of the river, is really immortal. Now, after waiting for 40 years, residents have seen the stagnant water deep in Yongding River.
Throughout the ages, Yongding River has different names.
Geologists, geographers and historians have different opinions on the birth date of Yongding River. Published in 1989, Physical Geography of Beijing, edited by Huo Yazhen, holds that Yongding River was formed in Mesozoic, more than 60 million years ago. 1920, Ye, a geologist in China, wrote that according to the results of collective investigation, Geological Records of Xishan in Beijing holds that Yongding River was born in Tangxian County (Miocene to early Pliocene), about 20 million years ago; 1953, the geologist Lu Jinbo's "Looking at the Cenozoic Palaeogeographical Changes in the Western Hills of Beijing from the Formation and Development of Yongding River" published in "Beijing Geology" holds that Yongding River was born in the Neogene Pliocene of the Cenozoic era,120,000-3 million years ago; Geography of Tianjin, Beijing and Hebei published by 1989 holds that Yongding River was born at the turn of Tertiary and Quaternary, 3 million to 2 million years ago; The book Yongding River and Beijing in History published in 2005 holds that Yongding River was finally formed in the Late Quaternary Pleistocene 654.38 million to 700 million years ago. From 60 million years ago to 700 thousand years ago, the time span is so large that it is difficult to accurately define the birth date of Yongding River.
Yongding River Cultural Exhibition "Nihewan Ancient Human Site" In 2004, the Ministry of Land and Resources and the Beijing Municipal Government jointly carried out a multi-parameter three-dimensional geological survey in Beijing, focusing on the Quaternary geological strata in the plain area. Geologists have found in many geological boreholes that gravel containing pebbles and silt, commonly known as "mud-wrapped gravel", is widely distributed at the bottom of the alluvial fan of Yongding River. The fifth hole drilled through Quaternary Pleistocene strata and found a single layer of "mud gravel" with a thickness of 95 meters at 340 meters underground. According to paleomagnetic detection, these "mud-wrapped gravel" have a history of about 3 million years. It can be inferred that Yongding River was born about 3 million years ago.
On March 28th, 2000, Beijing Daily published an article on the front page entitled "The overall plan for comprehensive management of Yongding River will be implemented in the near future". The article said, "Yongding River was born in Neogene Pliocene 3.4 million years ago. After a long crustal change and orogeny, it finally formed a 747-kilometer-long river course." This concept of time is basically consistent with the results of paleomagnetic exploration in 2004.
The ancient Yongding River flows through the Loess Plateau and Inner Mongolia Plateau, and when it flows through Beijing, it breeds splendid Yongding River culture. Yongding River culture, which is a mixture of various cultural elements, has the position of gestating the mother culture in the history of Beijing's urban development. Only in this way can Yongding River be regarded as the mother river of Beijing.
Undoubtedly, Yongding River is a legendary river with different names in different historical periods. Of all the rivers in China, there is no river with more names than Yongding River. It was called bath water in the pre-Qin period; In the western Han dynasty, it was called water control; In the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was called Luoshui; During the Three Kingdoms period, it was called Gaoliang River; In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, it was called Qingquan River; During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, it was called Sanggan River; During the Song, Liao and Jin Dynasties, it was called Lugou River; In the Yuan Dynasty, it was called the Little Yellow River. In the Ming dynasty, it was called Hunhe; The Qing Dynasty was called Wuding River; In the thirty-seventh year of Emperor Kangxi of Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1698), Emperor Kangxi ordered a large-scale regulation of Yongding River, dredging the river course and strengthening the riverbank, and named it Yongding. Since then, the name of Yongding River has been used to this day. The legend of this great river in the north can be seen from many names.
Then, why are there so many names in Yongding River? One is because you don't obey the rules. Historically, Yongding River often changed its course, especially in the lower reaches. Wang Yang swayed like a wild horse. Juma River in the south, Wenyu River, Chaohe River and Baihe River in the east. It is menacing and unpredictable. Its capricious temperament has earned it various names. It can be said that Yongding River is the most serious flood in Haihe River system. During the 800 years from the Jin Dynasty to the founding of New China, the Yongding River burst 8 1 time and changed its course 9 times. During the more than 250 years after the dike was built in the lower reaches of the Qing Dynasty, the breach overflowed 78 times, with an average flood less than 4 years. Second, the cultural diversity of the basin. In the long history, Yongding River bears too many changes and dynasties. The collision and integration between the farming people in the Central Plains and the nomadic people in the north, as well as the northern people such as Donghu, Shanrong, Wuhuan, Xiongnu, Xianbei, Qidan, Jurchen and Mongolia, can be found in many names of Yongding River. The third is the change of river water. From Sanggan River and Qingquan River to Lugou River and Xiaohe River, and then to Hunhe River and Wuding River, the change of river name truly reflects the change process of Yongding River from Qing Dynasty to Yellow River and then to Heilong River, and it is also a true portrayal of Yongding River's benefits and harms.
Roar, from indefinite to Yongding
The birthplace of Yongding River is the same as its birth date, and there are different opinions. It is not only the longest river in Beijing, but also the longest river in Haihe River Basin, with a vast basin and numerous tributaries. There are two tributaries in the upper reaches of Yongding River. The Yanghe River in the north originated in Xinghe County, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, and the Sanggan River in the south originated in ningwu county. These two tributaries will flow in Huailai County, Hebei Province, then go east to Guanting, introduce Guishui from Yanqing, and run in Guanting Gorge. They will come out of Sandian, enter the Beijing Plain, cross the capital, arrive in Tianjin, flow into Haihe River and inject into Bohai Sea. It has a total length of more than 700 kilometers and a drainage area of more than 50,000 square kilometers.
Liuliqu village crosses the street. So, which is the source of Yongding River in the north, Yanghe River in the south and Sanggan River in the south? Experts have their own opinions. Some people think that the Yanghe River formed by the confluence of Dongyang River, Xiyang River and Nanyang River is the source of Yongding River. Others believe that the Sanggan River, which is formed by the confluence of Huang Shuihe, Ziyuan River and Huihe River, is the source of Yongding River. According to the hydrogeological data of major rivers in China in, the length of Sanggan River is 437 kilometers and that of Yanghe River is 278 kilometers from the confluence of Sanggan River and Yanghe River in Zhuguantun, Huailai County, Hebei Province. According to the principle of farthest and longest source, the Uighur River (a tributary of Sanggan River) is finally determined as the source of Yongding River. Huihe River, called Ant River in ancient times, originated at the northern foot of the watershed of Guancen Mountain in ningwu county.
The cliff statue of Focun is located in the upper reaches of Yongding River from its birthplace to Guanting Gorge in Hebei Province. The upper reaches of the river are more than 400 kilometers long, with a drainage area of more than 43,400 square kilometers, including southern Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, northern Shanxi Province and northwestern Hebei Province. There are many mountains and hills in the basin, such as Guancen Mountain, Hengshan Mountain, Xiaowutai Mountain, Lingshan Mountain and Yanran Mountain. All above sea level1500m. There are both plateaus (the northeast edge of the Loess Plateau) and basins, such as Datong Basin, Yangyuan Basin, Yuxian Basin, Huai 'an Basin, Xuanhua Basin and Huailai Basin, which are arranged in sequence along Sanggan River and Yanghe River. Historically, dense vegetation in mountainous and hilly areas is conducive to water conservation. After Liao and Jin Dynasties, forests were cut down repeatedly, and soil erosion became more and more serious. The yellow soil layer in the basin is eroded by river water, and sediment flows into the middle and lower reaches.
Guanting to Sanjiadian, Yamaguchi is the middle reaches of Yongding River. The middle reaches of the Yangtze River have a total length of108km and a drainage area of1600km2, including most of Mentougou District, western Changping District and a small part of the Yangtze River Basin.
Historically, the governance of Yongding River has never stopped, and the largest and best governance took place in the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty. Emperor Kangxi repeatedly sent ministers to inspect the water potential of Hunhe River (Yongding River) and personally inspected the river. On the basis of full investigation and study, he appointed Yu Chenglong, governor of Zhili, to implement the river regulation project, and formulated three strategies for river regulation. First, "Dredge rivers and build dikes, and water beams are first-class". That is to say, dam and dredge the river, so that the unruly Hunhe River is bound as never before. From Lugouqiao to Shilipu in the north of Gu 'an County (now Shilipu in Daxing District), turn east to the sea. The second is to "borrow water to attack sand." That is, building dikes to control water, the river speed is accelerated, and the water flow washes away sand and silts. The third is "borrowing and brushing". The Niuhe River in the south of Liangxiang County will be blocked, and a diversion river will be dug between Niuhe River and Yongding River to introduce the clear Niuhe River into Yongding River. Kangxi's strategy of harnessing the river was a great success, and there was no major flood in the next 40 years. Looking at the tamed river in front of him, Emperor Kangxi gladly named it "Yongding". Since then, Wuding River has been renamed Yongding River.
After the completion of the Yongding River Waterfall between Taizi Village and Taizi Apple Plantation in New China, according to the requirements of the Yongding River Basin Management Planning Outline, trees and grass will be planted in the upper reaches to maintain water and soil; The flood was stopped in the middle reaches; Built a reservoir; Harness downstream rivers and reinforce dams. Among them, the most important river regulation project is Guanting Reservoir. On May 5th, 1954, Guanting Reservoir was completed. Since then, many floods in the upper reaches have been stopped in the reservoir, which completely cured the Yongding River flood.
The profound culture of Yongding River is dazzling.
The Jingxi Gorge of Yongding River is about102km long. This ancient river flowing among mountains not only created rich natural resources, but also gave birth to splendid Yongding River culture. I was deeply attracted by the dazzling Yongding River culture in the Yongding River Culture Museum located in the beach triangle of No.8 Mentougou Road, Mentougou District.
Coal mining in the west of Beijing began as early as the Liao Dynasty, and the history of burning lime with limestone as a building material is quite long, one black and one white, with a history of 1000 years. The stone produced by Shi Chunsheng is the royal material of court buildings in Ming Dynasty, the Liao porcelain in Longquan Wharf is the representative of the official kiln porcelain in Liao Dynasty, and the glazed products in Liuliqu are exclusively used by the royal family in Qing Dynasty. In addition, the cosmetics of Jin Dynasty concubines, such as Zhaitang thrush stone and Tanzhe inkstone, which are as famous as Duanyan and She Yan, are unique national treasures in western Beijing.
The unique geographical environment and local microclimate also provide unique natural conditions for the growth of fruit trees in Yongding River basin in western Beijing. Walnuts in Lingshui, sweet almonds in Baili, sweet apricots in Longquan, big persimmons in Longjiazhuang, Pak Lei in Dongshan and roses in Goujian Village are all famous. It's all a tribute from the palace.
In the season when apple blossoms are in full bloom, I have been to Prince's Tomb Village in Yanchi Town, which enjoys the reputation of "the first apple village in western Beijing". A fruit grower working in an orchard told me that the carbonate cinnamon soil along the Yongding River is very suitable for the growth of apple trees. In addition, the mountains are high and cool, and the temperature difference between day and night is large, which is conducive to the accumulation of fruit sugar. So the apple prince is not only big and even, but also crisp, sweet and delicious. In the early 1990s, Japan's Fuji, American snake fruit and other international famous varieties were introduced, and their quality was further optimized. Prince Apple was once designated as a special item for state banquets. Every harvest season, 2 million Jin of apples are quickly ordered out. Although the price is two or three times that of the urban market, it is still in short supply.
About the origin of Prince's apples, the fruit grower told me that during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, Prince traveled to the Western Hills and climbed the mountain along Gujing West Road. When he passed a village, he stopped.
Next to the 109 national road, the four characters of "Prince's Tomb Village" are engraved on the annual rings of four logs, while the giant apple shape at the western end of the logs reads "Red Apple Waterfront Leisure Corridor" in yellow italics. It is bounded by National Highway 109, with Nongjiale in the north and Yongding River in the south. The famous Prince apples are produced in apple plantations on beaches and hillsides. It is undoubtedly far-sighted to say that Prince Tomb Village uses the brand effect of Prince Apple and superior natural conditions of mountains and rivers to integrate tourism resources and develop sightseeing agriculture.
One side of soil and water supports one side of people and one side of culture. Historically, there were four religious belief centers in the Yongding River valley in the west of Beijing. Tanzhe Temple is the oldest and largest Buddhist temple in Beijing. This used to be the center of Rana temporaria Buddhism. Jietai Temple, the largest Buddhist altar in China, is the center of legalism. The largest royal temple in the Jin and Yuan Dynasties was the Zen Center in Cao Dongzong, and the Niangniang Temple in Miaofeng Mountain was a center of folk religious belief integrating folk gods, Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. In addition, there are more than 100 temples in the Yongding River valley in the west of Beijing.
The important geographical location makes the Yongding River Basin in the west of Beijing rich in cultural relics and historic sites, forming a unique cultural landscape. Military fortresses such as Yanhe City, Zhaitang City, Ancient Great Wall, Watchtower, Ancient Road and Guancheng still exist today. Famous ancient cultural villages, such as Sanjiadian Ancient Commercial Street, Bajing Lingshui Village, and houses under Xiandi in Qing Dynasty, are basically well preserved. The East Lake Site in Neolithic Age, the mural tomb in Liao Dynasty, Dingguo Mausoleum in Ming Dynasty, several tombs in Qing Dynasty, the tombs of celebrities in the Republic of China and the tombs of Peking Opera masters are typical representatives of the tomb culture in western Beijing. What is particularly commendable is that there are some extremely precious cultural heritages in Beijing. —— Wang Ping, a stone carving of Wuding in the Eastern Wei Dynasty in hebei village, is the only remaining relic of the Eastern Wei Dynasty, only 17 years old. They are also the oldest existing cliff lettering in Beijing; The Houdong Group of Jietai Temple is the largest cave temple group in Beijing. The Cliff Statue in Shi Fo Village is the largest and best preserved in Beijing. In addition, there are more than ten almost extinct crossing towers in Beijing, leaving only crossing towers and water towers.
Simple rural customs and folk arts add a touch of bright color to Yongding River culture. Handed down from generation to generation, Shanbangzi Opera, Beipai Shadow Play, Wenchang Daojing Society, China Travel Service, Taiping Drum Society, Shishuo Society, Dagu Society, Wuhu Shaolin Society, Stilts Society and Yangko Society have retained their traditional plays and performances, and are deeply loved by people in mountainous areas.
In the former Juntai Village Committee, a staff member told me that the ancient music here is in the same strain as the elegant music in the Spring and Autumn Period more than 2,000 years ago and has been included in the intangible cultural heritage of Beijing.
Qianjuntai and Zhuanghu at the southern foot of Daling are two adjacent small mountain villages, and now both belong to a community of Qianjuntai. There is an established rule here. Married daughters and people who earn a living outside may not go home for the New Year, but they must go back to their hometown to participate in sports activities on the fifteenth and sixteenth of the first month. At that time, state-owned coal mines also respected this custom. Every year at the fair, the miners in the former military station and Zhuanghu have holidays. More than 300 families and households in two small mountain villages participated in the market activities to express their nostalgia for their ancestors and their attachment to their homes.
There are 19 flags at the front desk and Zhuanghu Village, and each flag represents a Buddha. The flag is brightly colored, but solemn. All kinds of colors are matched together, concise and harmonious, which embodies the people's traditional aesthetic concept. As a product of China's ancient Taoist culture, the "Hui" activity not only remained primitive from the beginning, but also enriched and developed with the historical process. The appearance of Rukuang is a historical witness of western coal mining industry.
Composed of percussion and wind music, there are not only exclusive music of music clubs, but also music that is often played at weddings and funerals. How long has this fair been going on? Listen to that music. As the crystallization of folk culture in western Beijing, Xunhui embodies people's love for life and indomitable survival wisdom.
The ancient Zanqi has been handed down from generation to generation along the Yongding River and is praised for its livelihood.