The method of reproducing new individuals by using vegetative organs (roots, stems and leaves) of plants is called vegetative reproduction or asexual reproduction. Asexual propagation plays an important role in the cultivation of medicinal plants. A considerable number of medicinal plants are produced by asexual reproduction. For some medicinal plants, it is very difficult to collect seeds, or there are no seeds, such as Yalian and Chuanxiong. , asexual reproduction has been used in production. Another batch of medicinal plants also have seeds, but the seeds are difficult to germinate, or the plants propagated by seeds grow slowly, have a long life span, or have low yield, and are used to asexual reproduction in production. Fritillaria, for example, is propagated by bulbs once a year, and it takes five years to harvest if the seeds are propagated. For example, Rehmannia glutinosa and Scrophularia figwort are propagated asexually, and seeds are only used to breed improved varieties. Using asexual propagation can keep the excellent characters of female parent, so asexual propagation is often used in production to keep the purity or heterosis of varieties, which has achieved high benefits. In addition, many woody medicinal materials, such as Lycium barbarum, Fructus Aurantii, Kiwifruit, etc. It grows slowly and bears fruit late. If cuttage or grafting is adopted, it can bear fruit much earlier. For dioecious plants, asexual reproduction can control the proportion of male and female plants, such as eleocharis tuberosa, Trichosanthes kirilowii, Siraitia grosvenorii and Ginkgo biloba. Therefore, asexual reproduction is widely used in medicinal plants.

Commonly used methods of asexual reproduction include plant division, layering, cutting and grafting.

First, divide plants to propagate.

Bulbs, bulbs, tubers, rhizomes, and small bulbs (called seeds) of some Chinese herbal medicines are cut from the mother plants, planted separately, and cultured into independent new plants, usually in March-April in spring, when the plants have not started to grow, or in autumn10-1.

(1) scale (bulb) stem propagation

Bulbs such as Fritillaria, Lily, and Garlic, bulbs such as Rhizoma Arisaematis, Rhizoma Pinelliae, and Crocus sativus. Bulbs and corms often appear around bulbs or corms, and they are taken down for seed propagation.

(2) Rhizome propagation

Farfarfara, mint, licorice, etc. , can be divided into several small segments according to a certain length or number of nodes, and 3-5 buds are reserved for seed propagation in each segment.

(3) tuber (root) propagation

Such as rehmannia glutinosa, yam, Polygonum multiflorum Thunb, etc. According to the position of the bud and the eye of the bud, it is cut into several small pieces, and each small piece must retain a certain epidermal area and fleshy part.

(4) Rooting and propagation.

Perennial grasses (trees) such as peony, Scrophularia and peony. After the aboveground part dies, the perennial roots are dug out of the ground before budding, and cut into several small pieces from top to bottom according to the number and strength of buds for seed reproduction.

(5) pearl bud propagation

Lily, Lilium lancifolium, Pinellia ternate, Dioscorea opposita and Dioscorea opposita often have bulbils in the axils of leaves, which can be propagated after removal.

Generally, the time of plant division is in dormancy, and it is better before the plant begins to grow. If it is planted late, it will affect rooting and growth. In addition to the size of propagation materials, we should also pay attention to plant characteristics, soil and climatic conditions. For example, saffron is planted in low flower beds in the north to keep warm, and in high flower beds in the south.

Newly cut tubers and tubers should be aired 1-2 days after cutting to make the wound slightly dry, or mixed with plant ash to strengthen wound healing and reduce rot. When bulbs and bulbs are planted, the buds will go up, and peony and peony will grow big roots. When planting, you should lengthen the roots and cut them off. Roots that walk horizontally should be scattered into the ditch at a certain distance, and properly covered and compacted. If the soil is dry, water it in time.

Second, layered communication.

Laminated propagation is to make the branches still attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become new plants that grow on their own roots. Because before it takes root, water and minerals are still supplied by the mother plant connected with it, layering is more successful than cutting.

When layering, annular peeling, wringing, etc. It should be carried out in the part to be rooted, so as to interrupt the downward transportation of organic substances such as sugar and auxin from the upper part of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate near the upper part of the treatment for rooting. In addition, it is necessary to shade the part where the root is formed. Generally, soil stacking battens and ditching battens are covered with soil. Applying some auxin such as IBA to the girdling area during layering can promote rooting. Whether layering takes root well depends on whether there is continuous water supply, good ventilation and appropriate temperature. These conditions can be provided by selecting a suitable rooting medium, such as a loose mixture of loam and sawdust. Peat and moss are also ideal rooting media for layering.

At present, air stratification is wrapped in plastic film, which has high permeability to CO2 and O2, but is impermeable to water vapor and resistant to long-term weathering. Moreover, because it is transparent, we can observe the rooting of the layering and correctly determine the best time to cut off the mother plant.

Generally, when the plant growth is not very active, the layered seedlings are cut from the mother plant. Sometimes, because the overground part is too large, it is difficult to transplant after cutting, so the overground branches and leaves can be trimmed appropriately to balance it with the fragile new root system.

Honeysuckle, Eucommia ulmoides, jujube, Cornus officinalis and Siraitia grosvenorii are propagated by layering method.

Third, cutting propagation.

(A) the physiological basis of cuttage rooting

The rooting ability of cuttings is due to the interaction between stem cell genetic factors and transportable substances produced in leaves and buds. These substances include carbohydrates, nitrides, vitamins and other substances except plant hormones. In addition, environmental factors such as illumination, temperature, humidity and oxygen also play an important role in this process.

At present, it is considered that the balance between auxin and cytokinins in branches is the main reason for the different difficulty of cutting and rooting. From the point of view of molecular biochemistry, the induction of Rhizopus requires the synthesis of mRNA, and auxin treatment can improve the synthesis of mRNA. Gibberellin always inhibits the formation of adventitious roots at a fairly high concentration (as high as 10-3mol/l). There is evidence that gibberellin can prevent early cell division and participate in the transformation of mature stem tissue into meristem. Low concentration of gibberellin (10-1-10-7mol/l) can promote the rooting of pea cuttings.

Besides plant hormones, cutting rooting is also influenced by other substances besides environment, light and plant hormones. Auxin induces lateral roots in pea root segments, while red light inhibits lateral roots. This shows that phytochrome is also involved in this process.

Modern research shows that after the cuttings are treated with auxin, auxin must be involved, so that auxin can promote rooting. This auxin alone has no effect on rooting, and once combined with auxin, it becomes the power of rooting, so it is called auxin synergist in some literatures. In addition, according to the fact that cuttings without leaves are difficult to take root, and in hard cuttings, roots take root at the base of one side of Yu Xiansheng leaves, it is considered that fructose, glucose, sucrose, arginine and vitamin B in leaves are auxiliary factors to promote rooting.

(2) Factors affecting the rooting of cuttings

Because of the existence of (1) root protoplasm, there are two kinds of branches of growing plants: some have root protoplasm and some have no root protoplasm. Generally speaking, root protoplasm exists near the junction of primary medullary rays and cambium, and becomes meristem mass. Generally speaking, most branches of plants have roots, and cuttings are easy to take root. (2) The formation of callus provides a protective layer to avoid rot, which is beneficial to the slow rooting of cuttings. (3) The rooting and germination of stored substances need to consume a lot of nutrients, and the nutrients stored in cuttings are different in quality and quantity because of different intake time. The difficulty of rooting cuttings covered by shade is related to the low carbohydrate content. It is generally believed that high C/N ratio can promote rooting. Various inorganic nutrients are also needed in the process of rooting, and boron is the dominant inorganic nutrient affecting rooting. Therefore, cuttings must be used to provide the necessary amount of boron to the mother plant. (4) The age of the mother plant, the branches taken from young trees are more likely to take root and survive than those taken from old trees. Ozaki (1956) reported that the rooting rate of one-year-old olive cuttings was as high as 100%, but that of two-year-old olive cuttings was reduced by 50%. (5) The maturity of cuttings has great influence on rooting. Generally, when cutting in the dormant period in spring, it is best to use almost all branches in the last year or the last production season. Generally speaking, simply from the storage of nutrients in branches, the suitable cutting time is selected in the late growth stage of new shoots. However, according to the differentiation state of protozoa with cell division as the root, it is better to choose the period when the tissue has not been lignified and the differentiation function is vigorous. However, new shoots that are too tender are easy to wither and rot at high temperature in summer, which should be considered comprehensively. (6) Leaf area of cuttings. Because the leaves of cuttings with leaves contain or can synthesize the substances necessary for rooting, it is beneficial for cuttings to take root when the leaves are large. However, considering the time before the cuttings take root, the larger the leaves, the greater the evaporation, and the cuttings are easy to die, so the leaf area should be limited according to the balance between water absorption and evaporation.

(1) humidity and other external factors. Cutting withers and dies before rooting, which is one of the main reasons for cutting failure. Because the new roots were not formed at that time, the water could not be replenished smoothly, and the cutting branches and leaves lost water continuously due to transpiration. Although cutting off some leaves can prevent excessive evaporation, it is not an ideal way, because the existence of leaves is conducive to rooting. In order to prevent excessive evaporation before cuttings take root, air humidity should be as high as possible, but too high soil humidity is harmful, because when cutting, the soil must be kept at a slightly higher temperature and contain enough oxygen to facilitate cuttings to take root, and when the soil humidity is too high, it will have adverse effects on both. (2) temperature. Generally, the soil temperature is 15-20℃, and that of tropical plants is 20-25℃, which is slightly lower than the soil temperature and the growth temperature, because it is necessary to inhibit the growth of aboveground parts before rooting. A little lower temperature can also reduce evaporation and respiration, so that the buds germinate after taking root. (3) oxygen. Cutting needs oxygen to take root, so good ventilation is an important condition for inserting soil. In general, it is appropriate to keep the oxygen content in the air inserted into the soil greater than 15% and maintain a proper humidity. (4) light. It is beneficial to make the cuttings with leaves get enough light when cutting, but the strong light promotes evaporation, which is easy to cause the cuttings to die of dehydration. In practical application, bamboo curtains and reed curtains are used to block part of the light to prevent excessive evaporation. However, there are enough nutrients and auxin in the cuttings of hard branches, so it is best to put them in the dark to make the branches yellow to promote rooting. (5) The inserted soil must be able to supply water and oxygen necessary for cuttings to take root, and it must be free from pests and diseases. Commonly used soil inserts are river sand, vermiculite, perlite, water moss, peat and so on.

Although there are many environmental factors that affect the rooting of cuttings, humidity and temperature are the most critical ones. In order to make cuttings take root and survive as soon as possible, environmental conditions such as high air humidity, suitable soil humidity, slightly lower air temperature and higher soil temperature are needed. In the 1940s, the technology of cutting with leaves under fog was developed, which created the most suitable environmental conditions for cuttings to take root. Under foggy conditions, cuttings with big branches and young leaves take root well and become seedlings quickly.

(3) Cutting treatment promotes rooting.

1. Ring peeling

Before cutting, a circle of bark with a width of about 1.5cm was peeled off from the base of the branch on the mother plant, so as to cut off the transportation of assimilated nutrients in phloem and make the active substances such as carbohydrates and auxin produced by leaves accumulate in the branches above the barked part, which became a good nutritional state. When used as cuttings, the treated branches can promote rooting. Twisting and tying branches with iron wire or other materials also has the same effect.

2. Treatment of auxin and other chemicals

IAA, IBA, NAA, 2,4,5-T, NAd, triacontanol, etc. It can promote the rooting of cuttings, and IBA has the best effect. The application of auxin can shorten the rooting time by more than one third and improve the rooting rate of cuttings. If 0.1%2,4-d powder is used to treat the rooting rate of Hovenia dulcis Thunb, the rooting rate can reach 100%, and the kiwifruit can be soaked in 300ppm NAA solution for 3-4 hours, and the cutting survival rate can reach over 78%. Other chemicals that promote rooting are sucrose and vitamins, especially vitamins and vitamin C, which can promote the rooting of some kinds of cuttings. For example, the cuttings of clove and carnation were soaked in 5- 10% sucrose solution for 24 hours, and the effect was remarkable.

(4) Cutting period

Due to the types and properties of plants, general herbs have great adaptability to cutting propagation, so they are not suitable for cutting in season. Except in cold winter or dry summer areas, cutting can be carried out in warm areas and those with greenhouse or hotbed equipment and thoughtful management. The cutting period of woody plants is determined by deciduous trees and evergreen trees, which can generally be divided into two types: dormant cutting (deciduous in winter, before germination after stopping growth in spring) and growth cutting (that is, cutting during growth).

Hibernation insert:

Most deciduous trees are planted during dormancy, and those plants that take root easily are more suitable for this method. When the sap flows slowly and the leaves are about to fall, or after several mild frosts, the growth of trees stops completely. These branches contain the most recessive nutrients, and the cut cuttings are easy to heal tissues and take root quickly. Therefore, the cuttings of deciduous trees are usually taken, stored or directly inserted in the seedbed at this time, and the cutting period depends on the local climate. Generally, warm places in the south can be in1-February, Central China in February-March, North China in March-April, and Northeast China in the middle and late April. Plants that can be used for cutting in dormancy period include Ginkgo biloba, Kiwi, Akebia Akebia, Forsythia suspensa, Hibiscus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Mume Fructus, Radix Aucklandiae, Fructus Rosae Laevigatae, Lingxiao, Marble, Eucommia ulmoides and so on.

Growth period insertion:

There are also some deciduous trees that can be cut down during growth. The branches used at this time are tender branches that have not been completely lignified, which are generally called soft branch cutting and cork cutting. For flowering plants, non-flowering branches should be selected for cutting, because the nutrients of flowering branches are completely consumed in flowers and it is difficult to take root. When cutting roses, you can cut off the stems of the branches that have blossomed. After two weeks of photosynthesis, it is easy to survive.

Generally, the roots of evergreen plants need higher temperature than deciduous plants, so cuttings are usually cut during the growth period. Cuttings should be cut at the end of the first growth period and before the start of the second growth period. At this time, it is in the period of mildew rain from June to July, with continuous drizzle, high temperature and high air humidity, and the cuttings are not easy to wither and survive well.

The varieties that can be planted in the growth period are Lycium barbarum, Cornus officinalis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Hibiscus, Aucklandiae, Forsythia suspensa, Buddleja officinalis, Clematis, Rosa laevigata, Rhododendron, Buxus macrophylla, Rhamnus, Berberis, Ivy, Ligustrum lucidum, Myrtle, Gardenia, Fingered Citron, Mahonia, Hypericum, etc.

The most suitable time for cutting propagation is March-May in spring and July-65438+1October in autumn. There are also records about harvesting seasons in ancient books in China, which are applicable to Qingming in spring, Grain Rain (April) and autumn dew and equinox (September). The average temperature of the former is 14- 15℃, while the latter is 65438.

(5) bed insertion

The land used for cutting, called bed insertion, is generally divided into open field, hotbed and greenhouse. Cuttings are usually carried out in the open field, and plants that are difficult to obtain, such as those that need careful management, can be carried out in greenhouses or hotbeds.

Open bed insertion:

To choose a sunny location, the soil is preferably sandy loam. If it is clay, the cuttings will rot if there is too much water, and the clay will dry out in dry weather, which is not suitable. Water in sand is easy to lose, so it is not good. Sandy loam does not have these problems. After site selection, intensive cultivation should be carried out, and the bed should be whole, and debris should be cleaned up, so that the cuttings can easily take root and get fresh air from the soil. If conditions permit, apply sufficient base fertilizer (6-8 kg manure can be used per square meter), but the base fertilizer must be turned into the soil below 30cm so that it does not touch the cuttings, otherwise the cuttings will encounter manure and rot easily.

Be sure to cut it immediately after inserting the bed, because the soil is loose, it is easy to cut and easy to operate. If the bed is not used for a long time after transplanting, or after heavy rain leaching, the soil will harden, so it is necessary to rearrange the grass when mowing, which wastes manpower.

Cutting in greenhouse or hotbed can artificially adjust the temperature and humidity, but the cost is relatively high, and it is generally used for cutting precious varieties that are difficult to take root. In a small amount of cutting, discarded beakers and cans can be used to reduce evaporation and promote survival.

(6) cutting

You must choose a large branch. For the trees planted in the growing period, the tender branches should be selected as cuttings of tender leaves, but it is not good to have too many leaves. Because there is no root at the lower end of the cutting, it can't absorb a lot of water, and the cutting is easy to wither. Generally, 1-5 leaves are left on the cuttings. If the leaves are large, some leaves can be cut off, and the branches planted in the growing period should be inserted with the cuttings to keep the cuttings fresh. It's not easy to insert. This job is best cut and inserted in the morning. If you can't cut regularly, such as tomorrow, wrap the cut branches with wet cloth and put them in a cool place. Don't soak in water, which is not good for wound healing.

Some plants, such as cactus, Sedum notoginseng, pineapple, etc., should be dried before cutting, so that the hope of survival after cutting is even greater.

Deciduous trees are cut in dormancy, and branches should be cut in autumn. At this time, the branches on the trees are mature and contain the most nutrients. This is the best time to choose a branch. Generally, branches about 20cm thick and thumb thick are selected, and only cuttings with appropriate length have the highest survival rate, and the cuttings are too short. Because there are few nutrients stored, cuttings will die of malnutrition or grow into seedlings with weak growth potential. The cuttings should be inserted deeply, and the lower end of the cuttings will enter the soil layer that is not conducive to root development-solid, cold and sun-proof soil layer, lacking nutrients. If the long cuttings are planted at ordinary depth, the buds on them will begin to grow and develop, which requires a lot of water and nutrients, and the newly developed roots can not meet the needs of plants. Each cutting should have 3-4 buds. If the internodes are short, you can leave a few more buds, about 4-6. When cutting, the bottom should be cut off by the bud. Because this part of the stem takes root faster, it should be cut at a height 1cm higher than the first bud to prevent the terminal bud from wilting. It doesn't matter whether it is cut at the node or under the node.

Branches collected in autumn need to be well preserved when they are cut in the next spring. Every 50- 100 selected branches are tied up and placed in a ditch or cellar, and then a layer of soil, such as straw or wheat straw, is covered on the cellar. Also pay attention to the temperature and humidity in the ditch and cellar. Too much humidity will promote the early germination of branches, and it will not be used when they are cut in spring. Generally, they will be placed in ditches and cellars. The storage period of dormant branches can last for 3-4 months at the longest, and it is not good if it is too long. If dormant branches are sent from far away, they sometimes dry up. At this time, you must not soak in water, but keep it in wet sand to slowly restore humidity, otherwise it will die easily.

(7) Cutting method

The spacing between cuttings and plants is generally 16-30× 6- 18 cm, and some can reach 24cm. The depth of cutting depends on the object and kind of cutting. The depth of dormant or mature branches is about 12-20 cm, and the cutting of tender branches should be shallow and 2.5-7 cm deep. Cuttings can be inserted vertically or obliquely. The advantage of oblique cutting is that the end of cutting is close to the soil surface, and the root system needs more air and heat to ensure normal roots and buds. After cutting, the soil around the cuttings should be compacted (by hand), so that the branches can be fully and closely connected with the medium (soil) without leaving gaps. This is done to strengthen the water supply of the medium to the cuttings. After cutting, sprinkle water with a watering can immediately, and be sure to sprinkle it on the bed.

The management after cutting is mainly to replenish water and water frequently, but it is easy to cause cutting rot if it is too wet.

For cuttings that need shading equipment, put the shading equipment (curtains, straws) away at night, let the dew wet the cutting leaves and soil surface, and then cover them when the sun comes out the next day. After a long time, the shading time can be gradually shortened. Just cover it for 2-3 hours when the sun is shining at noon, and finally you can take it off without covering it, like camellia and rhododendron.

Fourth, graft propagation.

Grafting is the process of grafting branches or buds of one plant to another plant (rhizome) with roots, so that they can heal and grow together into a unified new individual. Grafting can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of plants, accelerate the growth and development of plants, benefit in advance, but also enhance the ability of plants to adapt to the environment. For example, bitter citrus reticulata grafted on orange paper has strong adaptability and developed roots. Strong ability of absorbing fertilizer and water, and strong drought resistance. Compared with the seedlings of Fructus Aurantii Immaturus cultivated at the same time, the branches and leaves are obviously elongated, the crown is formed quickly, and the fruiting period is 4-5 years earlier.

(A) the process of grafting healing and survival

The survival of plant grafting is mainly due to the division of cambium and parenchyma cells of both scion and rootstock to form callus, so that scion and rootstock can grow together. The process is that when the scion is grafted to the rootstock, the injured cells on the wound surface of the scion and the rootstock form a film, which covers the wound. By cutting, the injured cells are stimulated to secrete callus hormones, which stimulates the active growth of intracellular protoplasm, so that cambium and parenchyma cells can grow vigorously and fill the gap between the scion and the rootstock. Because the newborn cells between the rootstock and the scion are closely connected, the nutrients of the rootstock and the scion are mutually conducted through plasmodesmata, and the cells adjacent to the conducting tissue can also differentiate into the same type of tissue, resulting in new conducting tissue, so that the rootstock and the scion are interconnected and integrated. Therefore, the activity of cambium is of great significance to graft healing.

(2) Factors affecting the survival of grafting

1. affinity

That is, the ability of rootstock and scion to heal and grow after grafting.

2. Viability and physiological characteristics of rootstocks and scions

Generally, plants grow healthily and their vegetative organs develop well. The more nutrients stored in the body, the easier it is for grafting to survive.

The physiological characteristics of rootstock and scion also affect the success or failure of grafting. For example, rootstock is easy to survive if its root pressure is higher than that of scion, otherwise it will not survive. When the water content of the scion is too low, the cambium cells stop moving or even die. If the moisture content of mulberry scion is reduced to below 34%, grafting will not survive.

3. Plant inclusions

Plants such as walnuts contain more phenols (such as tannins). When grafting, tannin in the wound forms black polymer concentrate under the action of polyphenol oxidase, which makes it difficult to form callus and leads to moldy interface. At the same time, tannin also directly combines with protein, which constitutes the protoplasm, so that the cell protoplasm precipitates, thus forming an isolation layer between the joint surfaces, hindering the material handover and healing of rootstocks and scions, and making the grafting fail.

4. External environmental factors before and after grafting

(1) season

Branches are usually grafted in early spring before trees germinate, so rootstocks and scions are rich in tissue, and temperature and humidity are also conducive to the vigorous division of cambium. In the vigorous growth period, the plant meristem is obviously active, but the nutrients assimilated in the body are less, the scion is not full and the bud is not full. Except for docking, other methods are rarely used. Bud grafting is carried out in the slow growth period, and it is around the end of August in North China, so the cambium cells are still very active and the tissue of bud grafting is already rich. Grafting will heal this year and sprout into seedlings next spring, which is very suitable. Grafting is early, the bud germinates in the same year, and it can't be lignified in winter, which is easy to freeze to death; Grafting is late and the rootstock skin is not easy to peel off.

(2) Climatic conditions

Temperature is very important because cambium and callus can only move at a certain temperature. When the air humidity is close to saturation, it is most suitable for healing, so keep the scion moist after grafting. Can be buried or wrapped in plastic sheets. Illumination: Under dark conditions, there are many calluses growing on the grafting section, which are milky white, and rootstocks and scions are easy to heal. Outdoor grafting, pay attention to avoid unfavorable weather conditions, such as wet and low temperature days, windy days, rainy and snowy days; Cloudy, windless and humid weather is most suitable for grafting.

(3) Grafting method

According to the position of the grafted plant, it can be divided into branch grafting, bud grafting, abutment grafting, leaf grafting, bulb tuber bud eye grafting and so on.

graft

When the dormancy period ends and the juice begins to flow out, the short branches with more than two buds are cut into scions and the lower ends are cut into wedges. Cut the upper part of the rootstock at 7- 10 cm above the ground, cut it into a flat mouth, cut it longitudinally in the center of the rootstock, and insert the scion into the incision of the rootstock, the length of which is the same as that of the cutting surface of the scion, so as to ensure that the scion cambium is closely connected with the rootstock cambium, and tie it tightly with plastic cloth immediately after joining.

bud grafting

In late summer and early autumn (August-September), rootstocks with a diameter of more than 0.5cm are selected to make a T-shaped incision, the depth of which is to cut through the cortex, and the xylem is not damaged or slightly damaged. Cut shield-shaped buds with slight xylem on the scion with a bud grafting knife, insert them into the incision of the rootstock from top to bottom, make the buds cling to the cortex of the rootstock, and bind them with hemp skin or nylon membrane. After living 15-20 days, take off the tie, and after budding and branching, cut off the branches of the rootstock above the budding place.

Dock at the dock

F cut a piece of bark with the same shape and size from the opposite side of two branches to be butted together, about 2-5 cm long, then stick it together and tie it tightly with plastic sheets. Cut the scion from the mother plant after survival.

Medicinal plants commonly used for grafting propagation in production include magnolia flower, boat-fruited Sterculia, Siraitia grosvenorii, kiwi fruit, Fructus Aurantii and so on.

According to (Xu)