The story of a famous doctor | Fu Shan and "mind"
Yan runhong
What is a "brain"? I'm afraid it's hard for ordinary people to associate with food. As everyone knows, it is indeed a local "famous food" and a special "medicated diet", which was invented by Fu Shan, a Shanxi celebrity in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties.
Fu Shan (1607- 1684) was born in Shanxi Yangqu (now Taiyuan). Fu Shan was born in a scholarly family, his grandfather was a scholar and his father was Gong Sheng. He has read widely since he was a child and is brilliant. /kloc-Jinshi at the age of 0/4 was highly valued and appreciated by Shanxi governors Wen Taiqing and Yuan Jixian at that time. After the Shen Jia Revolution (1644), due to the strong concept of orthodoxy, he thought that Manchu's entry into the Central Plains was "subjugating the country and destroying the world", so he became a monk, calling himself "Taoist yi zhu" and secretly engaged in anti-Qing activities under the guise of practicing medicine and preaching. After the failure of the Qing resistance, he insisted on not cooperating with the Qing court, maintaining national integrity, living in the countryside and discussing calligraphy and painting. His friends once commented that "words are not as good as poems, poems are not as good as paintings, paintings are not as good as doctors, and doctors are not as good as people". This evaluation gives Fu Shan, who has both ability and political integrity and is proficient in medical Confucianism, a general picture.
Textual research on "heart"
As a food name, "brain" was not initiated by Fu Shan. According to textual research, it began at the end of14th century (the end of Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of Ming Dynasty). In the fifty-first episode of Water Margin, there were restaurants selling "brains", which shows that there were already restaurants selling "brains" at that time. At that time, it was unknown what materials were used for the "brain" and how it was made. As a kind of food, "brain" is not only a traditional famous food in Taiyuan. There is a famous food in Shanghai called "brain", which is completely different from Taiyuan's "brain" in raw materials and practices. But anyway, when it comes to "heart", people always think of Taiyuan's famous food and Mr. Fu Shan. This is because the "heart" in Taiyuan was invented by Fu Shan. Taiyuan's "heart" has the most health-preserving value and the most cultural background.
It is said that after losing his wife in middle age, Fu Shan never continued to serve his mother. His mother is old and weak, lying in a hospital bed. In order to make mother live longer, Fu Shan has developed "Bazhen Soup" with eight kinds of medicinal materials and foods such as fat mutton, lotus root, yam, astragalus root, galangal, Huimian Noodles, yellow wine and distiller's grains as raw materials as breakfast and tonic for the elderly in winter. After a winter's careful treatment, his mother recovered from all diseases and was full of energy. From then on, the name of "Bazhen Decoction" spread like wildfire, and people called it "the medicine of filial piety for famous doctors", and they came to ask for this kind of food one after another. At that time, the Qing army entered the Central Plains, and Fu Shan was determined to fight against the Qing Dynasty and regain sight, so he renamed "Bazhen Decoction" as "brain", which means that fighting against the Qing Dynasty and regaining sight requires brains. At that time, an immigrant named Ga (G M:) in Gansu opened a restaurant specializing in shearing sheep in Nancang Lane, Taiyuan, and the business was light. With the desire to help the world and the poor, Fu Shan taught him the compiling method of "Mind Method". And personally wrote a plaque for this restaurant, named "Qinghe Garden". Whenever patients are weak and need to be nourished, Fu Shan will let them eat the "mind" of "Qing He Yuan". This kind of "mind" has been widely publicized by Fu Shan, and the health care effect is remarkable. 300 years ago, the "Qinghe Garden" restaurant in Taiyuan was very lively and crowded. It should be noted that the "Qingheyuan" restaurant was originally located on the west side of the middle section of Nancang Lane in Taiyuan, and moved to Qiaotou Street in Taiyuan in the Republic of China.
The "mind" invented by Fu Shan is only circulated among the people and is not recorded in books. This is because in the Qing Dynasty, when literary inquisitions were built repeatedly, no one was willing to use paper and pencil to restore Fu Shan's profound and tortuous anti-Qing dynasty. Judging from the formula of "brain", it is a tonic with profound drug compatibility principle and specific dosage, which can also prove that it was invented by Fu Shan.
The formula of "Shenxin" and its precautions.
The preparation method of "brain" is as follows: mutton, yam and lotus root are used as raw materials, firstly, the mutton is cut into pieces, boiled in a pot with high fire, then added with pepper, astragalus root and galangal, boiled with low fire, then taken out, the distiller's grains juice is boiled in a pot, cooking wine is added, stewed noodles are boiled to a batter soup, and then the mutton pieces, cooked yam and lotus root are put in a bowl. When tasting, you can feel the mixed fragrance of medicine, wine and mutton, and the flavor is unique. The more you eat, the more you want to eat
When eating "brain", it is usually accompanied by pickled leeks and a "hat box". Pickled leeks are like the primer of medicine. The "hat box" is a kind of toast, which is short cylindrical and hollow in the middle. It is made of unfermented flour shells, put together and baked in a furnace. When drinking "brain", break the "hat box" into small pieces and soak it in.
In the Qing Dynasty, there were also several restaurants in Yuci, Shanxi, which operated "brain tonic", among which "Qingsheng Garden" and "brain tonic" were the most famous, and their characteristics were that the mutton they chose was the first-class fat goat, not mutton. A bowl of "brain" is usually four pieces of fat goat meat, two pieces of long yam, two pieces of lotus root and white soup, and the seasoning is added by yourself.
In Jinzhong, Shanxi, besides Taiyuan and Yuci, there is also the "mind" of Xiyang. Xiyang's "brain" comes down in one continuous line with Taiyuan's "He Qing Yuan" and Yuci's "Qingshengyuan" and "brain". In the way of eating, Taiyuan and Yuci's "brains" are matched with a little wheat and a hat box, and Xiyang's "brains" are matched with jiaozi. After the "brain" is done, jiaozi cooked it, fished it out and put it in a bowl.
Fu Shan has special requirements on the season and time of eating "brain". Every year, from Yin Shi to Shi Mao (3 am to 7 am), "Brain" goes on sale in the spring. In previous restaurants, lanterns were hung in the morning to sell "brains". There are two ways to illustrate the benefits of doing so. One is to encourage diners to exercise in the morning, which has both nourishing and exercise effects, killing two birds with one stone; It is also said that Fu Shan let people carry lanterns before dawn, which means "Don't let people shine in the sky".
Personally, I think there is a deep medical truth in this. As mentioned above, TCM health care should follow the principle of "correspondence between man and nature". From the point of view of "heart", it belongs to a medicated diet that warms and tonifies the deficiency of yang. From the perspective of modern nutrition, it is a food with high fat, high protein and high calorie. From 3: 00 to 7: 00 in the morning, the yang in nature rises, and the temperature is the lowest. However, "Yin Sheng" now has a new weight loss theory, that is, eat less, especially breakfast, and be full. As long as the meal time is mentioned, enough energy can be guaranteed in one day and there will be no overnutrition. This theory coincides with the ancient tradition of "grasping the brain as soon as possible". Nowadays, many people are used to eating too much without breakfast. From the perspective of TCM health preservation theory, this is "going against the sky" and is very harmful to health.
It must be pointed out that "brain" belongs to the medicated diet of traditional Chinese medicine, and it must follow the principle of taking medicated diet, that is, dialectical diet and three causes (due to people, places and times). The so-called dialectical diet means taking medicated diet as medicine. All medicines are biased, and the principle of treating diseases in traditional Chinese medicine is "biased with the right", and the medicated diet is biased, which is only a difference in degree compared with medicines. Therefore, medicated diet must be suitable for people, specifically "brain", whose nature is warm and rising, so it is suitable for people with cold constitution, people with spleen and stomach deficiency, people who are afraid of cold and warmth, or people who lack milk due to insufficient nutrition after delivery. Physique with strong yang is usually prone to get angry, or those with yin deficiency and hyperactivity of yang, such as hypertension and arteriosclerosis, are not suitable. As far as age is concerned, middle-aged and elderly people are more suitable than teenagers. In addition, according to the principles of "adapting to local conditions" and "adapting to the time", "brain" is suitable for autumn and winter in the north, but not for the south and spring and summer. All of the above need to be highly valued, otherwise it will not be conducive to promoting the traditional food of "brain tonic".