It is said that clothing, for human beings, keeping out the cold is its primary function. However, the clothing civilization of human beings, especially that of China, has become complicated since it stepped out of the era of only practical purposes. Since ancient times, the clothing system has always been one of the important systems for kings to govern the country. The service color is the most important factor to promote clothing to play its function and realize its goal of "ruling the world". Clothing color has two functions: one is to distinguish identity; The second is to express the occasion. In ancient times, the government stipulated the color of clothes for people all over the world. In particular, emperors, officials and officials have detailed regulations from sacrificial clothing, court clothing, official clothing to official clothing. They almost wear uniforms, because most of them belong to the upper class and are the envy of people. Therefore, the color of uniform strongly affects the popular color of clothing. With the changes of the times, foreign cultures have been added to China culture, and the popular clothing colors will in turn affect the clothing colors of uniforms. Due to the interaction of these two colors, the history of this seemingly small change has actually changed greatly. According to the occasion of wearing, ancient clothes can be divided into three categories: formal clothes, imperial clothes and regular clothes, and each category can be divided into several categories. The principle is that the higher the status, the more types people can wear and the more colors they can use.
Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the early Ming Dynasty, thought that the clothes of the Yuan Dynasty were all Hu clothes, which men wore and women refused to accept, and were "not as old as China's clothes". So Zhu Yuanzhang ordered the restoration of the military uniforms of the Tang Dynasty, and wrote the dress code in the official books Daming Ji Li and Zhu Zhang Sizhi. In the third year of Hongwu (1370), the Ming government initially formulated the crown service system. In the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu (1393), the Ming Dynasty made a large-scale adjustment to the original crown clothing system, which made the costumes of the Ming Dynasty concentrate on the distinctive parts of the costumes of the Han Dynasty in history, and at the same time made the costumes of the Ming Dynasty a master of "Han Guan Wei Yi". It took 30 years to establish the clothing system in Ming Dynasty.
Thus, in the Ming Dynasty, clothing culture became a system, and people's clothing was no longer a simple thing that wrapped their bodies, but a representative of their status and personal character. In Cao Xueqin's Dream of Red Mansions, this feature is vividly displayed. A Dream of Red Mansions was originally named "The Story of the Stone", and later it was changed from an empty Taoist to a record of a love Taoist. The title of A Dream of Red Mansions is a mirror of a phoenix moon, but Cao Xueqin has read it for ten years, added and deleted it five times, compiled it into a catalogue and divided it into chapters. Then he wrote "Twelve Women in Jinling" and wrote a quatrain cloud:
The paper is full of absurd words, a bitter tear!
Dou Yun's author is crazy, who can understand the taste!
Later generations changed it to A Dream of Red Mansions after his death. The red chamber in a dream of red mansions is red, which means blood at that time. It is a symbol of life, but also invisibly represents the fate of the twelve golden girls. ...
Jiafu was an aristocratic family in the middle of18th century, with different food and clothing, which made people shine at the moment. The splendor, nobility and magnificence of Jia costumes in A Dream of Red Mansions, as well as the characters' personalities and identities, all indicate their future destiny. The relationship between clothing and people started from primitive society, and human beings came from primitive society. With the continuous development of civilization, people have gradually developed their pursuit of beauty. At that time, the clothing culture reached a high degree of democracy and had the premise of the times. Because Cao Xueqin's family is a famous family, his clothes are all high-grade and specially for the royal family, so he can see and know all the gorgeous clothes, as well as their workmanship, materials and so on, which lays a good foundation for the article to talk about the beauty of clothes in detail. The difference in production and material selection shows not only material, but also many spiritual descriptions, and the feeling in clothing is different from others. In A Dream of Red Mansions, the author pays great attention to writing people, and each role has its own personality. Whether it is twelve women or not, even a little maid is not the same as a little girl. When describing their clothes, the author pays attention to people's appearance and heart. Clothing is the second skin of people, and it is also the pursuit, publicity and continuation of beauty. The author pays great attention to the description of clothing here, and fully combines the beauty of soul, external beauty and wisdom, so that people can feel its beauty visually and have a relative understanding of everyone's identity and destiny.
From what Lin Daiyu saw when she entered the government for the third time, she said before entering the government, "These third-class domestic servants she saw recently have an extraordinary level of food and clothing, not to mention their homes today." It can be seen here that Daiyu is thinking that even the maids are dressed so strangely. Her mother once said that Jia's wealth was different, which reminded her that now that she is in Jia's house, the scene inside will be more noble and gorgeous, which can better show her status. Then, "I suddenly saw two big stone lions crouching in the north of the street, three animal head gates, and a dozen people sitting in front of them." When I saw the old lady, I led three people in and said, "After a while, I saw three wet nurses, five or six maids, surrounded by three sisters. The first one has a slightly plump skin, a well-proportioned figure, fresh cheeks, greasy goose oil, gentle silence and affability. The second one, with a slim waist and a slender duck egg face, has fine eyes and looks forward to flying, and the essence of literary talent has been forgotten. The third is short stature, which is described as small. Her hairpin is wearing a skirt coat and everyone is seated. " What is written here is the appearance and dress of the three sisters after learning. We can see the general character of the three sisters from their appearances. The first is gentleness, silence and amiability. The second "Looking at Flying and the Essence of Literary Talent"; The third description is still small. The clothing here is only a simple description, and the word "hairpin ring skirt coat" is used to describe its clothing.
From granny Liu's eighth court visit, we can see Wang Xifeng's dress. When grandma Liu first met Wang Xifeng, she was shocked by Pinger's dress and mistook Pinger for Wang Xifeng. The original words were as follows: "When Grandma Liu saw Pinger's brocade, she called him' Aunt', and it was easy to call him Xifeng, but Zhou Rui's family said,' It's Pinger's girl'. I didn't know Pinger was just a serious girl until she called Zhou Rui's aunt Zhou. " Grandma Liu had hallucinations at that time, and when she stood there, she realized that it was a misunderstanding. It is conceivable that the maid wears satin, and the owner must be more luxurious. Later, under the introduction of Zhou Rui's family, I met Wang Xifeng. "Sister Feng often wears a mink cover to show her respect for the monarch. She collects pearls beside her, wearing a pink coat with flowers sprinkled on it, an azurite poncho and a scarlet crepe silver mouse leather skirt, which is bright and pink." Granny Liu was surprised, and later she knelt down quickly. But all she saw was their household clothes, but she didn't see the noble clothes of the guests.
To say that Wang Xifeng made her debut in the third time, Daiyu entered Jia's house. The old lady is introducing everyone in her family to Daiyu. After a while, she only heard the hearty laughter. At this time, search appeared. Speaking of Wang Xifeng, she is the housekeeper of the Jia family, and her dress is naturally different. The reason why she was late was to dress up carefully for Daiyu's arrival. Let's talk about Wang Xifeng in Dai Yu's eyes. "This person's dress is different from other girls: colorful embroidery shines like a fairy princess." Wearing a golden silk eight-treasure beaded bun and hanging five phoenix beads in the morning; There is a ring of red gold plate on the neck, a bean green uterine tapestry and a pair of balanced roses on the skirt; Wearing a golden butterfly, wearing a red flower forged narrow coat, wearing a colored carved stone green silver mouse coat; Under the jade crepe skirt A pair of red phoenix triangle eyes, two curved willow leaves hanging eyebrow, slim figure, enchanting physique, pink face with spring force, red lips before laughing. "Here we can see her elaborate dress and irritable personality, which also highlights her noble status as a housekeeper. Here, I mentioned many excellent technologies and their complexity in clothing technology, even the clothes she wore were five-color silk dyed silver mouse jackets. Five-color reeling was reserved in Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song Dynasty and Qing Dynasty. Take cooked silk as weft and raw silk as warp. Colored silk is cooked, and monochromatic silk is raw. This mode is called reeling. At that time, dyeing technology had reached a peak. At that time, yellow was the noblest color and was owned by the royal family. A fuel made of blue copper ore is a high-tone color, and silk cyan is also a noble color, second only to yellow at that time. On search's forehead, there is a Zhao Junji, also called Qi Mei. These colors can only be seen in Wang Xifeng, Baoyu and Jia Mu. But Wang Xifeng prefers yellow, and she often appears in yellow clothes in later articles.
In the book, I mentioned a dress worn by Li Wan, called Fan Li silk. Fan Li silk is a kind of cloth produced in Tibet, which is wrinkled like meat strips driven away by people. Silk is a kind of clothing for Tibetans, and Mao Mao is a kind of Tibetan. It seems that the cloth is rotten. All this just shows that Li Wan is poor and can't afford expensive clothes.
Here, not only the clothes worn by different types of people are displayed, but also the complicated crafts are displayed. A clear night is a good example. Queqiujin, a dress made of peacock hair, is now in the Palace Museum in Nanjing. In A Dream of Red Mansions, it is precious because it is a gift from Russia, and it is the clothes that Jia Mu gave Baoyu to wear when he went out to meet guests. But a hole was accidentally burned by a flying fire, so I took it out and found Russian darning and domestic darning, but no one knew about this kind of cloth and no one dared to take the job. In this case, Qingwen had no choice but to mend her illness. This is the story of Yongqingwen's illness. Qingwen took one first and compared it. She smiled and said,' It's not very similar, but it's not obvious if you add it.' First, take the lining apart, nail it to the cup surface with a big bamboo, then loosen the four sides of the fracture with gold, and then sew two pieces with a needle to separate the warp and weft, just like the method of dividing the line. After dividing the land, darn it back and forth according to the pattern of this dress. Make up two stitches, watch again, darn and study hard. Helpless dizziness, black eyes, breathless, three or five stitches could not make up, so I fell on the pillow and rested for a while. Baoyu was nearby and asked, "Would you like some boiled water?" After a while, he ordered, "Have a rest." On one occasion, he put a squirrel cloak on her, and on another occasion, he ordered a crutch pillow to lean against her. Anxious Qin Wenyang said,' Little ancestor, go to sleep quickly. Stay up until midnight, and I'll gouge out my eyes tomorrow. what can I do? Baoyu saw that she was in a hurry and had to sleep at random, but he still couldn't sleep. At that time, I only heard the clock strike four times, just mended it, and slowly picked out the fluff with a small toothbrush. "This is very good," Musk said. "If you don't pay attention, you won't see it again. Baoyu quickly asked someone to look at it and said, "It's exactly the same. "。 "Here, Qingwen's concern for Baoyu and her willingness to pay for Baoyu are not only revealed, but also fully demonstrated her talent for color matching on clothes. At the same time, it also shows her thoughtful and thorough views on things, and makes such an irreparable dress intact. If Qingwen was born in modern times, she should be a famous fashion master.
There is a girl named Huang in Jiafu, who is Xue Baochai's little maid. She is handy and can knit. He is good at making small ornaments, weaving flowers and blue flowers, playing with beauty and making jade for Jia Baoyu. Here, she talked about the collocation of colors and what kind of thread to tie him with. He put forward many plans, and Baoyu also put forward many plans, but in the end it was Baochai's idea. She said that weaving with gold thread, on the one hand, should tie jade, on the other hand, should use orthodox colors, but she really wanted to tie Jia Baoyu with this thread.
There is also a master of color matching in A Dream of Red Mansions-Jia Mu, who is also very insightful about color matching. According to written records, Jia Mu left the place where Daiyu lived. She noticed that Daiyu's windows were covered with green bamboo and the curtains were green. She asked the maids to find a soft pink smoke net to change it, so that the red in the window can be separated from the green of the scenery outside at once.
In A Dream of Red Mansions, clothes are not all used to keep warm and hide shame, but to show identity and character. This custom was not only obvious at that time, but now people's living standards are constantly improving, and the requirements for clothing are getting higher and higher. Some people like to wear brand-name clothes to show their wealth, some people like to wear fashionable and avant-garde clothes to show their unique personality, and some people like to dress up nifty and cute to show their student spirit and purity. Everyone will express themselves according to their identity and personality when dressing up. There is another saying: "Clothing is the first window to see a person's soul."
When Lin Daiyu arrived at Lady Wang and met Jia Baoyu, she saw: "There is a purple and gold crown with a bunch of hair embedded in it, and Mei Qi is leading two dragons to grab the beads to wipe her forehead; Wearing red arrow sleeves and two-color kingdee, with colorful silk flower and long tassels, the azurite cover is full of colorful Japanese forged tassels; Little boots with green satin soles. If the face is like the mid-autumn moon, the color is like spring flowers, the sideburns are cut with knives, the eyebrows are like ink paintings, the face is like peach petals, and the eyes are like eyes. If you sometimes laugh when you are angry, you will look at it with affectionate eyes. There is a gold ring on the neck and a five-color silk sash, which is a beautiful jade. " This is the dress he wore when he went out to meet the guests. Later, he put on his household clothes and saw his crown band: "It was braided with short hair around his head, and HongLing ended up with fetal hair in the top. The editor-in-chief tied a big braid, black as paint, with a string of four big beads dripping with golden treasures from top to bottom; Wearing a silver-red half-worn coat, with a collar, Baoyu, life lock, amulet and other things; Half-exposed pine embroidered pants embroidered ink socks thick red shoes in the lower body. " It is said that Wang Xifeng likes yellow, and the treasure jade here is different. Most of his clothes are red. The red color here has not deviated, and the nobility here has not deviated. The colors here all reflect the family situation of a noble son. As mentioned earlier, red is blood color, representing new life, and pure red is also a very noble color.
When enjoying Xuemei and Baixuehongmei, everyone wears a cloak, which shows that people of different identities in Shang Huashi wear different clothes in the snow. Wearing a cloak and a squirrel warm pocket, Grandmother Jia sat in a small bamboo sedan chair, carrying five or six maids, including a blue silk umbrella, mandarin duck and amber. Everyone came with umbrellas and sedan chairs. Grandmother Jia and her party went out of the east gate of the passageway and saw silver powder all around. Suddenly, they saw Baoqin standing on the hillside in her skin, waiting at a distance, with a maid holding a bottle of plum blossoms behind her. Grandmother Jia said, "Look, the person who matches her on this hillside is wearing this dress again, and this plum blossom is at the back. What is it like? " Everyone laughed: "It's just like Chou Shizhou's" Two Bright Pictures "hanging in the old lady's room." Grandmother Jia shook her head and smiled: "Where is this dress in that painting? People can't be so good! " Later, when the girl turned around, everyone realized that the girl was actually Baoyu.
Xue Baochai wore a lotus-green barrel pattern icing on the cake, and one was hung with silk thread.
Xing Xiuyan is a homely old clothes, with no clothes to cover the snow. It can be seen that she is poor and has no money to buy new clothes and warm clothes.
Li Wan is a widow and dressed simply. She only wore a blue double-breasted jacket.
Daiyu put on lambskin boots to pinch gold and dig clouds, white fox put on a red feather gauze skirt, tied with a green dragon, a flashing green ring and a four-in-one sash, and put on a snow hat on her head, which was even more white and pure.
Shi Xiangyun is wearing a mink coat with big fur. In the golden film, there is a big red gorilla felt and a big mink collar. It is wearing a semi-new five-color embroidered dragon and silver mouse short coat embroidered by Qiu Xiangse, a three-color mosaic leader, and a mask of small sleeve. The jacket inside is a pink forged fox-like pleat, with a bow and five-color court brocade tied tightly around the waist and deerskin boots on his feet.
Miaoyu used to have a good family, but later she became a nun, so she was well dressed.
It can be seen from here that everyone's hobbies, personality, status and origin are very different.
In the book, color and workmanship are criticized. Red, yellow, bean green and turquoise are noble colors! There are hundreds of butterflies and flowers on Wang Xifeng and Jia Baoyu, but it is derogatory to Wang Xifeng. Her skirt was that pattern, and pink was usually worn on some frivolous women at that time. But the book said that Wang Xifeng was "wearing a pink shirt". At that time, pink, pink and pink were all derogatory. During xiren's return home, Mrs. Wang and Wang Xifeng gave him some things, and Mrs. Wang gave xiren jewelry and makeup. (Makeup forging is only for nobles with more than five products here, and it is not the raw material that ladies-in-waiting can use on clothes. At that time, xiren was Mr. Jia's little wife in the dark, and Mrs. Wang gave her these things here to show her recognition of xiren, focusing on letting her go back to her family to have face, which also shows that she is a person with status and status. What Wang Xifeng gave her was leather, noble but not genuine leather. It was here that she belittled the attacker and realized that the attacker looked noble, but in fact he was just a glass vase, which was not worthy of the name.
Throughout A Dream of Red Mansions, the most commonly used word in it is "red", and they are all written around one word-red, which shows their bad taste in love with "red". For example, Jia Baoyu lives in Hongyi Courtyard, and the place where he goes also has the word "red". He took a brand named Hongyi Gongzi, and he also tasted the cigarette fat on the girl's mouth. Of course, the cosmetics at that time were all natural and pollution-free. But Xue Baochai is the only person in A Dream of Red Mansions who doesn't like red, cigarettes, fat and flowers, mainly because she belongs to the orthodox type. And her accessories are all gold, and her whole body is gold.
The characters in A Dream of Red Mansions have a resistance to society. Most of them don't pursue orthodox yellow, but they all declare their spirit in red. At that time, the author was also in this mood, so he advocated red more, which was one of the reasons why The Story of the Stone was later changed to A Dream of Red Mansions.
After reading A Dream of Red Mansions, I have a deeper understanding of people's costumes. Characters' costumes and personalities are closely linked and inseparable. In A Dream of Red Mansions, I can see that Cao Xueqin, as a family of weaver girls, uses very strict vocabulary in the description of characters and costumes, and also hides many secrets. Tea, blood and tears tell the tragic fate of the twelve golden girls, but they all end in tragedy.