The ancestor of the suit: 1690, Cole, Gierster.
/kloc-In the Louis XIV era in the second half of the 7th century, the knee-length coat "Jistekol", the slightly shorter "Best" and the tight-fitting trousers "Kyurot" came onto the historical stage, forming the composition form of modern three-piece suits and many wearing habits. Generally speaking, Steckel's front placket is unbuttoned, just a few buttons above and below the waistline-this is the origin of the wearing habit of buttoning a modern single-breasted suit, which is not impolite, but more than two buttons and only one button.
The ancestor of iron: 1705, Krabat.
From 1670 to 1675, Croatian hussars served as the guards of Louis XIV in Paris. They are called "Clabat Guards", and a piece of linen around their necks has aroused people's imitation and become an indispensable ornament for men's neckline. This is the ancestor of modern ties, Krabat. At that time, how to tie this belt was one of the criteria for evaluating the elegance of aristocratic children. Therefore, many nobles specially hired attendants to do this work.
Pants are the product of the French Revolution: 1829, Pontaron.
1789, revolutionaries in the French revolution wore pants "Pontarone" as a revolution to the aristocratic tight-fitting trousers "Kyurot". At first, Pang Tarone's trousers only reached the calf, and then gradually became longer, reaching the foot surface at 1793. In the first half of the19th century, the trouser legs were tight and loose, and they coexisted with the traditional half trousers. By the 1950s, men's trousers had completed the modern modeling.
Modern suit born in lounge: 1853, Laonki jacket
In Victorian England, there were many manners, especially in social activities at night. Men must wear evening dresses, behave gracefully and talk appropriately. After dinner, men can gather in the lounge next to the restaurant for a nap. Only here can they smoke, drink brandy, joke or lie on the sofa. At this time, the tight tuxedo seems out of place. As a result, a loose tailless jacket, known as "Laonki jacket" and produced around 1848, entered the stage of history as lounge's special dress. For quite some time, this kind of coat is not elegant, and it is only used for leisure occasions such as rest, outing and walking. In the second half of the19th century, this kind of jacket became an important variety of men's wear. At that time, Oxford jackets and Cambridge coats worn by students at Oxford University and Cambridge University were also of this shape.
China's first domestic suit
China's first domestic suit was born in the late Qing Dynasty. It was sewn by the "Red Tailor" for the famous democratic revolutionary Xu Xilin. 1903, Xu Xilin met Ningbo tailor Wang, who was studying suit craft in Japan. The following year, Xu Xilin returned to China and customized this suit in the Thai suit shop opened by Wang in Shanghai. It took Wang three days and three nights to sew the first domestic suit in China by hand. Although its craft did not exceed the production level of western countries, it fully demonstrated the superb skills of the "red tailor" and became the forerunner of China's western suits among the nations in the world.
"Military uniform" in the 1940s: 1940, a cross-shoulder suit.
During the second world war, people advocated the mighty military demeanor, and men's and women's clothes in military uniforms were very popular. From around 1940, bold look became popular in men's wear. The so-called "boldness" means boldness. It is characterized by bold exaggeration, emphasizing that men with thick and wide shoulder pads have broad and strong shoulders. In response, the collar, lapel and tie also became wider, and the radian of the front swing and the lower corner became square and tough. Pants are loose and fat, and the crotch is very long.
British rural style popularity: 1982, rural style
The 1980s was a retro era. With the recovery of the world economy, western traditional architectural clothing culture has been paid attention to again. In the late 1970s, the inverted trapezoidal suit returned to the traditional British style, but different from the past, people pursued comfort in this traditional style. The amount of chest relaxation is large, the barge head becomes larger and the buckle position decreases. The free combination of jumpsuits and trousers with different colors is very popular. People pursue the unrestrained leisure atmosphere in the steady traditional modeling, in order to find the feeling of traditional beauty in the relaxed and comfortable leisure-flavored suit. In this context, the "pastoral style" made of British tweed is very fashionable, and since then, leisure suit has become increasingly prosperous.
Fully lined suit
It breaks the tradition of making suits with adhesive gauze lining as the main lining, incorporates Italian wisdom, and takes high-quality black carbon lining as the main lining, creating a brand-new effect of softness, rigidity, durability and no deformation, which is a revolution of successful men's clothing.
Machine-washed suit
Adopt the latest technology developed by the International Wool Bureau. Wear it for a long time or get wet in the rain, as long as it is put into the washing machine for cleaning, its overall line will never be affected. If wrinkles are found, please spray enough steam on its surface or iron it slightly.
Telescopic pants
When sitting, the waistline can be stretched freely, when it is empty or full, the waistline can be adjusted by itself, and the body shape change can be carefree. Its fabric is comfortable, elastic and easy to wear. Folding, soaking, and natural elimination immediately after folding. It will remain permanent after ironing.
Knowledge of suit fabric
Pure wool fabric
Pure wool worsted fiber
Most of them have thin texture, smooth surface and clear lines. The luster is naturally soft and bleached. Body bones are crisp, soft and elastic. Loosen the woolen cloth after grasping it firmly, and there is basically no crease, even if there is a slight crease, it can disappear in a short time.
Two pieces of pure wool
Most of them have thick texture, full surface, soft color and sufficient light, which can be seen at a glance. Denim and suede do not show grain bottom. Grain texture is clear and rich. Soft, crisp and elastic.
Wool blended fabric
Wool and polyester blended fabric
There are bright spots on the surface in the sun, lacking the soft and moist feeling of pure wool fabric. Wool polyester (polyester wool)
The fabric is stiff but stiff, which stands out with the increase of polyester content. Elasticity is better than pure wool fabric, but feel is not as good as pure wool and wool blended fabric. Loosen the woolen cloth after grasping it tightly, and there is almost no crease.
Wool and viscose blended fabric
Gloss is dull. Worsted fabrics feel weak, while rough fabrics feel loose. The elasticity and stiffness of this kind of fabric are not as good as pure wool and wool polyester wool blended fabric. If the viscose content is high, the fabric will wrinkle easily.
Pure chemical fiber wool-like fabric
Pure wool worsted fiber
The traditional wool-like fabric made of viscose and man-made wool fiber has dull luster, weak hand feeling and lack of stiffness. Due to poor elasticity, wrinkles are easy to appear and are not easy to fade. The strength of stretched yarn after wet water is obviously lower than that after drying, which is an effective method to identify viscose fabrics. In addition, this wool-like fabric will become hard and thick after soaking. With the progress of science and technology, wool-like products have also made great progress in color, feel and durability, and the continuous innovation of high-tech textile products has decorated our world more colorful.
Dress etiquette in a suit
Suits are increasingly favored by people because of their beautiful design, simple and smooth lines, strong three-dimensional sense and wide adaptability. It has almost become a national costume, which can be described as suitable for men, women and children. This suit took seven minutes to develop and three minutes to wear. The choice and collocation of suits are very particular. When choosing a suit, we should not only consider the color, size, price, fabric and workmanship, but also the outline and proportion. A suit doesn't have to be made of high-grade materials, but it must be cut properly and neatly. Choose a monochrome suit with dark and steady color, no obvious pattern, but high-grade fabric, which has wide application range, long wearing time and high utilization rate.
Wearing a suit should follow the following etiquette principles:
1. The colors of the suits should be the same. In collocation, two of the suits, shirts and ties should be plain colors.
2. Wear leather shoes when wearing a suit. Casual shoes, cloth shoes and sneakers are not suitable.
The colors of shirts and suits should be coordinated with the colors of suits, not the same color. White shirts are very suitable for suits of various colors. Men should not wear brightly colored plaids or shirts on formal occasions. Shirt cuffs should be longer than suit cuffs 1-2 cm. Wearing a suit requires a tie in formal and solemn occasions, but not in other occasions. When wearing a tie, the shirt collar button must be fastened, and when not wearing a tie, the shirt collar button should be untied.
4. Suits have single-breasted and double-breasted buttons, and the button method is particular: double-breasted suits should be buckled. Single-breasted suit: one button, dignified, open and chic; Of the two buttons, only the top button is foreign-style orthodox, only the bottom button is bullish and trendy, the whole button is rustic, both of them are not open and handsome, and only the second button is not standardized; The three buttons, the top two or only one in the middle, all meet the requirements of the specification.
It is not advisable to put too many things in the jacket pocket and trousers pocket of a suit. Don't wear too much underwear. It is best to wear only one shirt in spring and autumn. Don't wear a cotton sweater under your shirt in winter, but wear a sweater outside your shirt. Wearing too many clothes will ruin the overall beauty of the suit.
6. The color and pattern of the tie should match the suit. When wearing a tie, the length of the tie should touch the belt buckle, and the tie clip should be worn between the fourth button and the fifth button of the shirt.
7. The trademark card on the cuff of the suit should be removed, otherwise it will not meet the dress code of the suit, and elegant occasions will make people laugh and look generous.
8. Pay attention to the maintenance of the suit. The way of maintenance and storage has a great influence on the shape and wearing life of suits. High-grade suits should be hung in a ventilated place, often aired, and attention should be paid to insect prevention and moisture prevention. When you have wrinkles, you can hang them in the bathroom after taking a shower, spread them out with steam, and then hang them in a ventilated place.
Women: When women wear suits, trousers (skirts) or cheongsam, they need to wear flesh-colored long sleeves or pantyhose. You are not allowed to show your legs or wear colorful stockings and socks. When wearing shirts, underwear and shirts should be similar in color; Wear a skirt with thin fabric and a petticoat.
M: When men wear suits and uniforms on formal occasions, they should adhere to the three-color principle, that is, the color of their bodies should not exceed three colors or three colors (shoes, belts and purses should be one color or several colors), and nylon stockings and white socks should not be worn.
Usage of tie clip: it should be used when wearing a suit, that is, it is not necessary to use a tie clip when wearing only a long-sleeved shirt, not to mention a jacket. When wearing a suit, you should clip the tie in a specific position, that is, from top to bottom, between the fourth and fifth buttons of the shirt, and then buckle the suit jacket. Generally speaking, you can't see the tie clip from the outside. Because according to the rules of decoration etiquette, the main function of tie clip is to fix the tie. If it is slightly exposed, it is also possible. If you put it too close to the shirt collar button, it will be too ostentatious.