What is surfing? - Health Preservation Learning Network

What is surfing?

surfing

(surfing)

A water sport in which athletes stand on surfboards or use flippers, kneeling boards, inflatable rubber pads, rowing boats, kayaks, etc. Ride the wind and waves. No matter what kind of equipment is used, athletes should have high skills and balance ability, and be good at swimming long distances in the wind and waves.

Surfing is driven by waves and should be carried out on stormy beaches. The height of waves should be around 1 m, and the minimum should be not less than 30 cm. Hawaii has waves suitable for surfing all year round, especially in winter or spring. These waves come from the North Pacific Ocean. The waves are as high as 4 meters, allowing athletes to slide more than 800 meters. Therefore, Hawaii has always been the center of surfing in the world.

Equipment and exercise method

The surfboard originally used was about 5 meters long and weighed 50 ~ 60 kilograms. After World War II, foam plastic board appeared and its shape was improved. The surfboard in use now is 1.5 ~ 2.7 meters long, about 60 cm wide and 7 ~ 10 cm thick. The board is light and flat, with narrow front and rear ends, and the tail fin plays a stabilizing role in the back waist. In order to increase friction, the cardboard is also coated with a waxy outer film. The weight of all surfboards is only 1 1 ~ 26kg.

Surfing is that athletes lie down or kneel on the surfboard first, and then row to a place suitable for waves as a starting point. When the waves push the surfboard to slide, the athlete keeps the surfboard in front of the wave peak and stands up, and his legs naturally spread back and forth (usually the balance leg is in front and the control leg is in the back), and his knees are slightly flexed to slide quickly along the waves.

Surfing has created many incredible miracles, which are often surprising. 1986 In early 1986, two French athletes, Peron and Pi Xia Fan, set out from Senegal in West Africa and crossed the Atlantic Ocean with surfboards. In late February, they arrived at the French island of Droop in Central America, which lasted 24 days 12 hours.

develop

Surfing is a very exciting sport. Riding a surfboard and wandering in the stormy waves, even people who are familiar with water and skilled will inevitably encounter danger. Therefore, with the development of surfing, surfing life-saving activities are also developing.

As early as 1778, Captain J Cook, a British explorer, saw this activity among the local residents of the Hawaiian Islands. After 1908, surfing spread to some countries in Europe and America. 1960 and then spread to Asia. Surfing has developed greatly in the past two decades, and large-scale surfing competitions have been held in North America, Peru, Hawaii, South Africa and the east coast of Australia.

After World War II, the birth of plastic industry produced portable plastic surfboards, which promoted the development of surfing. Therefore, surfing has been developed in many countries in the world. With the gradual popularization and improvement of surfing, its sport has developed to be competitive. Surfing competitions are often held in Australia. The first World Surfing Championship was held in Manley, Australia on 1962, and the competition has been held every two years since then. The competition is mainly based on the quantity and quality of surfing completed by surfers within the specified time, with a score of 20 points, such as three waves in 30 minutes or six waves in 45 minutes, and then based on the surfers' starting, turning, taxiing distance and wave selection difficulty. Created by Liu Hongping.

Surfing, slimming, ecstasy in rapids

What is the coolest way to lose weight in summer? American girls will tell you: Surfing. Surfing itself is a unique and beautiful water sport. Surfers can stand on the surfboard or step on the water directly and float on the water by the waves flowing to the shore. Due to the arrival of summer, many obese people can't stand the high temperature and jump into the sea one after another to get rid of the fat around their waist, legs and arms by surfing. Among them, the Hawaiian sea in the United States is often the first choice for people to surf.

Surfers can generally use a long and narrow horse-powered cloth board, or a short webbed board, or even hold their arms above their heads and straighten up without a surfboard. Because you want to surf, you must first carry your surfboard against the waves and reach the steep peak. When a wave approaches, you can dive on the surfboard and pedal hard to swim to the shore quickly. Therefore, this special way of exercise is not only full of ecstasy, but also the body can feel extreme sports after excitement. Therefore, when people come to the seaside and see the undulating figure of surfers in the vast sea, they will sincerely feel that surfing is an excellent way to integrate strength and beauty, health care and slimming.

Surfing leader Rosie said that more and more women have joined the ranks, which has represented a trend of losing weight in summer and is moving towards surfing.

Four of the most exciting surfing spots in the world.

1, Hawaii (Oahu, Hawaii)

Every surfer wants to surf in Hawaii at least once. Oahu is the main island of Hawaii and the most important surfing place. The shape of the island makes it naturally form four surf coasts. Due to the influence of monsoon, the waves from the North Pacific Ocean in summer often make the waves as high as 4 meters, and some waves can even be as high as 8 meters or more. Surfers can glide over 800 meters.

If you are interested, you can go to the seaside in Hawaii. Every weekend is no exception. There are always some fat women in bikinis at the seaside, laughing happily when checking the water temperature, checking the waves and the waves rolling. The newly established Women's Surfing Alliance has become the organizer of these women who want to keep fit and lose weight. This surfing alliance even organizes women to have surfing training in Southern California, so that they can master the skills of surfing healthy and slimming as soon as possible.

2. Southwest France.

Peter Viertel, a Hollywood playwright, brought surfing to France in 1956, and now the coastline of southwest France has become a good place for surfing. In fact, in addition to surfing, other added values here are also very high. After surfing, you can also taste delicious wine, appreciate sexy French women and feel the ancient French culture.

3. mentawai islands

Mindawi Islands is located in the west of Sumatra Island, Indonesia. There are four big islands and countless small islands, forming many beaches suitable for surfing. The currents of the South Indian Ocean meet here, making the waves here very durable. No matter what the wind blows, there must be some surfing places here, and there are also 6- 10 meters of big waves.

4. Tea amber

There can only be one place with the highest waves in Shanghai in the world, and that is Tea Amber Island on Tahiti Island in the South Pacific. Because there is no continental shelf to stop it, it directly faces the waves from the South Pacific, so the waves here are higher than other places.

surfboard

Surfing is that athletes lie down or kneel on the surfboard first, and then row to a place suitable for waves as a starting point. When the waves push the surfboard to slide, the athlete keeps the surfboard in front of the wave peak and stands, and his legs naturally spread back and forth (usually the balance leg is in front and the control leg is in the back), and his knees are slightly flexed to slide quickly along the waves.

Matters needing attention in surfing

1. When carrying a surfboard, pay attention to the turning place, put it down gently when on the ground, and cover it with sand when on the sand in strong wind to avoid being blown away by the wind.

2. When you go out to the seaside with a surfboard, the angle of holding the surfboard should be in a straight line. Never put the surfboard in front of your body to prevent the waves from hitting the surfboard and your body.

3. When the surfboard rushes back to the shore from the open sea and the water depth is about 30 cm, please get off the surfboard immediately to avoid the surfboard directly hitting the stone.

4. When the surfboard collides with the waves, never pull the safety rope and surfboard by hand to avoid holding hands.

When surfing, please keep everyone away from the sea at the length of two surfboards.

6. Junior surfers, please pay attention to check the equipment, wax blocks, safety ropes and life jackets before launching, and warm up for 20 minutes before surfing in the sea.

7. The rule of surfing take-off is to be closest to the wave collapse point. His action is to stand up first and the surfer next to him should stop surfing. If you rush down regardless of the willy-nilly, in case of an accident, the surfer will bear all the consequences and liability for compensation.

8. The best wave shape for surfing is the wave that collapses in the middle and pushes towards the slopes on both sides. The most dangerous and worst wave is a row of waves that suddenly collapse. Please go ashore and have a rest at this time.

9. When doing aerobics on the beach, the sea breeze is very strong at this time. Please fasten the safety foot rope quickly. Our bodies should stand in the forefront of the downwind direction to avoid being hurt by our surfboards.

10. If you see jellyfish appearing or being bitten by jellyfish while surfing in the sea, please go ashore and have a rest.

1 1. When surfing in the open sea, the surfer closest to the first surfing area, if a crazy dog wave covers the whole row from above you, you should quickly throw the surfboard back and dive and hide.

12. When surfing in big waves, the surfer in front should keep a safe distance from the surfer next to, in the middle of or behind, so as to prevent everyone's surfboards from being entangled in the safety rope when the crazy dog waves are submerged.

13. Surfers must abide by the rules of surfing and taking off. One person and one wave, whoever is closest to the starting point of the wave wall will get up first. At this time, the participating surfers quickly braked or pulled the board to stop surfing.

14. Beginners should strengthen hand stroke training, physical training and foot training, and roll forward in the water and hold their breath.

15. Surfing well requires diving skills, high morale, strong physical strength and muscles. Usually, please watch more surfing videos and magazines, surf with surfers, watch more, surf the Internet more, and exchange experiences with good friends to ensure that you become a surfer as soon as possible.

16. When surfing, if you encounter an ocean current pulled out of the sea, just follow the direction of the ocean current and catch the waves. Never throw away the safety rope and swim back with the swimmer. Please lie on the surfboard and wait for help.