By the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes were more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's dress in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and blouse. Among women, there is an image of topless and bare arms. On the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb, there is an image of a woman in the Tang Dynasty, with a high bun, shirtless, HongLing shoulders, a yellow short-sleeved blouse, a long green dress sweeping the floor, and a red belt hanging from her waist, which gives a more vivid understanding of "powder chest is half hidden and dark snow is suspected" and "wearing fine grass when sitting, that is, sweeping plum blossoms with a skirt".
Dressing slowly and revealing a little is not everyone's job. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status could wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai could be semi-naked, and singers could be semi-naked to please the ruling class, while women in ordinary families were not allowed to be semi-naked. At that time, the semi-topless dress of the Tang Dynasty was somewhat similar to the evening dress of the modern west except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.
The collars of women's wear in the Tang Dynasty include round neck, square collar, oblique collar, straight collar and chicken heart collar. Short skirts and long skirts are characterized by high waists, generally above the waist, and some are even tied under the armpits, giving people a very slender feeling.
"Luoshan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Yinyan has its own traces." Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for each other, especially the red skirt. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not the patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed red by pomegranate flowers everywhere.
Perhaps influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Yang Guifei likes the yellow skirt best, which is a symbol of status.
The "semi-exposed skirt" reflects the openness of society at that time from one side.
Social ideology formed on a certain economic basis. It is an important factor affecting social fashion and clothing. Clothing is a barometer of social and political climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, especially during Zhenguan and Kaiyuan years, when the political climate was relaxed and the people lived and worked in peace and contentment. Chang 'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the political, economic and cultural center at that time, and also the center of cultural exchanges between the East and the West. The ancient city of An, the morning bell of the Wild Goose Pagoda, the smoke from the thatched cottage, the wind and snow of willows, the sunset of Mount Li, the sacred palm of the mountain and the stone carvings in the forest of steles seem to still haunt the sound of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, more than 300 countries had friendly exchanges with ZF. Through them, splendid China culture spread to all parts of the world. Today, some countries in East Asia still regard the costumes of the Tang Dynasty as formal attire, which shows its lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang 'an and also spread the seeds of their culture in Qinchuan, 800 miles away. Painting, sculpture, music, dance and other arts in the Tang Dynasty absorbed foreign skills and styles. The eclecticism of foreign costumes makes the exotic costumes in the Tang Dynasty even more dazzling.
Due to the open policy adopted by the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Western Regions and Tubo were eclectic, so "mud hat" and "fashionable makeup" became popular. This is the third great change in the ancient costume history of China. Different from the previous two major changes in clothing, this time the clothing exchange is from north to south and then to east.
[Edit this paragraph] Patterns of Tang Dynasty costumes
The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the creative thinking given by God in the past, using real flowers, grass, fish and insects to sketch, but they did not exclude the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns, which was also determined by the influence of imperial power. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.
The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful in the soft clothing of silk and yarn. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luoshan leaves are embroidered again, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix silver geese, each dancing in two directions, between the words" Long live peace ". "Today we see these luxurious and exquisite costume patterns, which are precious image materials that Dunhuang Grottoes painters have preserved for future generations with hard work. The development of costumes in Tang Dynasty is an overall development. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is manifested in shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyle, makeup and jewelry.
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of dress design of Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of Warring States, the lightness of Han Dynasty and the elegance of Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, making the dress and dress patterns reach the peak in history. The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on later generations continues to this day. The application of branch patterns in modern clothing patterns embodies the implication of combining traditional patterns with modern aesthetic consciousness.
The picture of a lady with a big sleeve shirt depicts aristocratic women picking flowers and catching butterflies in the court. The costumes of the characters in the picture are different from other Tang Dynasty portraits, such as wearing extra-large flowers and transparent gauze clothes, which are rare and novel costumes. According to the literature, this kind of dress should be the style of the middle and late Tang Dynasty, which has been passed down to the Five Dynasties. It is a major feature of clothing in the Tang Dynasty to use gauze as a material for women's wear. In particular, wearing only veils without underwear is groundbreaking.
Women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty-wide sleeve double-breasted shirt, long skirt and silk. This is a noble costume in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, which is usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies, getting married, etc. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "thin hairpin dress".
Let's take a look at the folk crafts of the Tang Dynasty, Silk Man.
Half-arm dress-half-arm dress appeared as early as the early Tang dynasty; Not only is it popular in the Central Plains, but women in the northwest also like to wear half-length skirts. Half-arm is a kind of clothing extending from short arm, usually wearing a pair of lapels and tied on the chest. There are also a few "pullover" styles, which are worn from top to bottom, with wide neckline and flat chest. The hem of the half arm can be exposed, or it can be tied inside the skirt like a short reed. Judging from the murals handed down from ancient times and ceramic ladies-in-waiting, wearing this kind of clothing must be lined with underwear (such as short curtains) and cannot be used alone.
Khufu-popular in Kaiyuan and Tianbao years. It is characterized by lapels, lapels, narrow sleeves and brocade edges. A large number of pottery figurines are reflected in the murals unearthed from the tombs of Wei Dong in Xi 'an and Li Xianhui in Gan County. There are also women wearing this dress in silk paintings unearthed in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang. At the same time, there are also accounting characters unearthed in the second year of birth (765,438+03) and the second year of Kaiyuan (765,438+04), which can be inferred that the Tang Dynasty was indeed the era when Khufu prevailed.
[Edit this paragraph] The development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, and both people's thoughts and material production reached a historical peak. Since the Tang Dynasty, flower patterns have been widely used in craft decoration, with lively and free composition, well-proportioned density, fullness and roundness. In particular, the combination of wavy continuous patterns and flowers and plants is a popular branch-tying pattern in Tang Dynasty.
The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the creative thinking given by God in the past, using real flowers, grass, fish and insects to sketch, but they did not exclude the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns, which was also determined by the influence of imperial power. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.
The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful in the soft clothing of silk and yarn. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luoshan leaves are embroidered again, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix silver geese, each dancing in two directions, between the words" Long live peace ". "Today we see these luxurious and exquisite costume patterns, which are precious image materials that Dunhuang Grottoes painters have preserved for future generations with hard work. The development of costumes in Tang Dynasty is an overall development. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is manifested in shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyle, makeup and jewelry.
The costumes and hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty are rich and colorful, with patterns such as phoenix patterns and peony patterns. Some hairstyles show moire marks, which is the embodiment of moire development and change. Judging from the style of shoes, upturned round toe shoes prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, with exquisite workmanship, and even straw sandals were exquisite in craftsmanship. The silk shoes are embroidered with tiger's head embroidery, which is similar to the tiger's head shoes worn by Shandong children, but the toe of the tiger's head shoes worn by Shandong rural children is not so upturned. There are similarities between men's shoes and modern shoes, which shows that the development of shoes has reached its peak at that time. Looking at the costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty, we can understand it like this:
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of dress design of Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of Warring States, the lightness of Han Dynasty and the elegance of Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, making the dress and dress patterns reach the peak in history. The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on later generations continues to this day. The application of branch patterns in modern clothing patterns embodies the implication of combining traditional patterns with modern aesthetic consciousness.
[Edit this paragraph] Women's Wear in Tang Dynasty
If the theme of men's wear in ancient China is practical and solemn, then the style of women's wear is romantic, and women's wear in Tang Dynasty is the most beautiful chapter.
The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, with a prosperous economy, developed culture, frequent foreign exchanges and an open world. Coupled with the influence of foreign ethnic minorities, women in the Tang Dynasty were less bound. In this unique era environment and social atmosphere, women's dresses in the Tang Dynasty have become one of the important symbols of Tang Wenhua with their numerous styles, gorgeous colors, innovative decorative techniques and elegant and gorgeous styles.
Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty can be divided into skirts, crowns, hats and shoes. According to the Tang system, there are four kinds of women's clothes, namely, court clothes, public clothes, sacrificial clothes and regular clothes. The first three are the size dresses worn by empresses in court meetings, sacrifices and other formal occasions, while the latter is for daily use. Women's uniforms in the Tang Dynasty were basically shirts and curtains on the upper body, skirts on the lower body and silk on the shoulders. This shirt is single-sleeved, padded and only as short as the waist. Skirts are long and numerous. In addition, there are coats, half arms and shirts. The coat is a jacket, which is longer than the jacket and shorter than the robe. Half-arm is a kind of short-sleeved bodice, which is worn outside the shirt and popular in the early Tang Dynasty. A blouse is a short and easy-to-take gown worn by women when they sing and dance. Its clothes are colorful, and red, green, purple and yellow are the most popular, such as "red skirt is jealous of pomegranate flowers", "lotus root skirt" and "Yujin skirt with bending over and dancing more". Moreover, there are many weaves and embroideries on shirts, rafts, jackets and skirts. As stated in the Tang Dynasty, The Newly Embroidered Luo includes silk, cotton cloth, kudzu vine, hemp and wool, among which silk is the most commonly used.
In addition, "contemporary makeup", topless clothes, men's wear and Hu clothing are also important costumes. "Contemporary makeup", that is, fashion, women's dresses in the early Tang Dynasty were small sleeve narrow dresses with half arms, silk shoulders and tight chests, with simple style; In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the dress gradually widened, the skirt waist moved down, and the clothing was gorgeous; In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the dresses became more and more spacious, and women often praised them for their wide sleeves and bright colors. Naked collar clothes, men's wear, military uniforms and Hu clothes were widely popular among women in the Tang Dynasty, especially in its heyday. The topless collar dress is a kind of semi-topless sleeve shirt made of yarn. At that time, it was described as "slow-binding Luo skirt to cover the chest", "uneven shame to kill snow hibiscus" and "seeing the skin with thin lines on the front edge", which fully reflected the graceful figure and natural beauty of women in Tang Dynasty. Women in the Tang Dynasty like military uniforms and men's clothes. "Gong E in Military Uniforms Sweeps Her Eyebrows" depicts the scene of maids wearing military uniforms. During the reign of Wu Zong, Wang Cairen was often mistaken for the emperor by performers because he served with Wu Zong. Good things in the world will be effective in the afterlife. In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, the wives of literati wore their husbands' clothes, hats and boots without exception, and the maids followed their mistresses in men's round neck suits, with hoes wrapped around their heads and black boots on their feet. Women in the Tang Dynasty had no other ideas from China and foreigners. During the reign of Tianbao in Kaiyuan, Han women dressed in tight-fitting Hu clothes with lapels, narrow sleeves and waists were everywhere in the streets and alleys of Chang 'an, Luoyang and other metropolises, which reflected the spirit of women's openness and bodybuilding in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
Women's hair mainly wears all kinds of hats and combs. Wearing a cap, the first row went on stage, the second row of curtain caps, and then Hu Mao. In the early Tang Dynasty, women had the custom of "covering their faces". When going out, women wear power, which is a big square towel. Generally, it is made of thin and transparent gauze, which covers the body and the whole body. During the reign of Emperor Gaozong, with the opening of social atmosphere, he changed to wear a "skirt-to-neck" curtain hat. In the prosperous new century, women simply took off their hats and went out in a bun, or followed the example of men and conference semifinals, wrapped in hoes and dressed in colorful Hu Mao. Hu Mao originated from the Western Regions and Tubo, and its shape is novel and changeable. Some have rolled eaves with empty tops, some are equipped with upturned hat ears, and some are decorated with fur along the brim. In addition, if you go out for a long trip, you should also wear a hood to avoid dust.
In the Tang Dynasty, women wore shoes, boots and shoes. Shoes are made of fabrics such as nylon, hemp, silk and twill. And straw sandals made of cattail. Embroidery is often added to shoes, which have various head shapes, such as round head, high head, cloud shape, flower shape, etc. For example, as the Tang poetry says, "Clouds tread on temple shoes", "Golden wrinkles weigh platform shoes" and "cluster shoes are red and thin". Boots are mostly made of brocade, which is successfully woven and beautifully decorated. Used barefoot in summer, it is deeply loved by folk women. For example, Li Bai's poem says, "My feet are like frost, and I don't need crow's head socks".
Women in the Tang Dynasty pursued beauty and accessories, and their makeup and accessories were rich in content, including hairstyles, headdresses, faces and accessories. Women's hair styles are mainly comb-bun, or tied on the top of the head or behind the head, with very rich shapes. There are dozens of names, such as Banzhuan bun, Yunji bun, Wandering bun, Jing Gu bun, Japanese pendant bun, Double Ring Wang Xian bun, Uman bun, Uighur bun, etc. The bun in the early Tang Dynasty was simple and flat. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, high bun became popular, with various styles. Hair accessories include hair clips, hair sticks, walking, victory, uranium, flowers and so on. Most of them are made of jade, gold, silver, tortoiseshell and other materials, with exquisite craftsmanship. Hairpins are often used in pairs. They are inserted horizontally, obliquely or backward. Walking and shaking is one of the best products. The hair stick head is made into a bird-beak-shaped bead string, which swings with the walk and doubles the charm. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, women also popularized comb insertion and decorated their hair with delicate and beautiful flowers.
There are many methods of facial makeup, such as painting aluminum powder, rouge, black eyebrows, applique cymbals, painted face cymbals, painted oblique red, painted lip grease and so on. Make-up people pick two or three, and make full use of them. Lead powder is white in color and delicate in texture. It is "white and bright" when applied to face, neck and chest. Rouge is a paste pigment made from the extracted red and blue flower juice, pig fat and bovine bone marrow. Due to the preference of emperors and literati, women's eyebrows are varied. Xuanzong once ordered painters to draw ten eyebrow paintings in Sichuan, including Yuanyang eyebrow, mountain eyebrow and inverted eyebrow. Eyebrows are mainly wide eyebrows, which were generally drawn longer in the early Tang Dynasty, and short eyebrows became popular after the prosperous Tang Dynasty. Flower bud is a kind of forehead decoration, which is cut into various flower shapes with gold foil, black paper, mica, fish cheekbones and other materials, especially plum blossom, which is the most common and attached to the brow. Noodles are painted with rouge on the dimples of cheeks, or with gold foil like flowers. Oblique red is a fashion for women in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, with two red crescent patterns painted on cheeks and temples. Neat shapes are like strings and the moon, and complicated ones look like scars.
Necklaces, collars and garlands are decorated with necklaces, armbands and bracelets, while Yu Pei and sachets are decorated with waist ornaments. The garland was originally a decoration between the necks of Buddha statues, which was introduced to China from India with Buddhism and was loved by maids and maidens in the Tang Dynasty. Its upper part is a semi-circular metal collar, and the lower part is a necklace made of jade. Some still hang a big lock-shaped ornament on their chests, which is luxurious and glittering as a whole. Armband, also known as jump, is an ornament made of metal wire wound in many turns, shaped like a spring, or combined with several bracelets. It is worn on the arm and is deeply loved by ladies and gentlemen. The sachets are mostly made of gold and silver, hollowed out, and the upper and lower hemispheres are locked by the mouths of children and mothers. There are two concentric rings inside, and there is a small incense burner in the ring. The concentric ring and the small gold burner are connected by symmetrical movable shafts. No matter how it is rotated, the ashes in the incense burner will not overflow.
Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty not only added luster to the splendid Tang Wenhua, but also influenced women's clothing life and culture in later generations, and became a wonderful flower in the ancient culture and art garden of China.
It is common for men in the Tang Dynasty to wear round neck robes, especially robes. Wotou, also known as Fu Tou, is a primitive costume formed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right. Officials in the Tang Dynasty mainly wore round neck and narrow sleeves, and their colors have been stipulated: all officials with more than three products should use purple; More than five products, blushing for color; Six products and seven products are green; Eight products and nine products are cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time.