Yang Liusong
Writers, travelers and explorers. Masterpieces: Knot, Start and End, Open Space in the North. The Open Space in the North tells the true story of his 77-day journey through Qiangtang no man's land alone on 20 10. According to it, the film "Seventy-seven Days" starring Jiang and Zhao Hantang will be released this year.
1
Predict life and death
You can scare me how bad the climate in the wilderness is and how cruel wolves and tigers and leopards are, but you can't punish my fragile heart with a ghost story. "
The fantasy of "lover" replaced all fears.
Stepping into Qiangtang wilderness for the first time is only the inevitable result of repeated struggles of consciousness.
It was in 2009, and I clearly remember that night in shiquanhe town. Three friends smashed my door, and the color of panic was amazing. They pulled me like a demon, trying to persuade me not to enter Qiangtang ... The chaotic scenes of anxiety, pleading and panic, accompanied by tears of anxiety, made my heart palpitation. It turned out that at their charity summary meeting, a man deserted and suddenly saw a scene to the effect that I entered the Qiangtang wasteland and never came out. Simply put, I died in the wasteland. Later, he shared this ominous premonition with everyone. Do they really think this is a prophet's warning? A bad omen that is bound to happen? In short, they broke into my small hotel room in the middle of the night and staged such a big drama to persuade students to leave.
I don't want to face their hunches. Whether this premonition is meaningful or not should not receive a warm response. I sternly asked them to leave the room and simply and rudely expelled their kindness.
My anger finally calmed the farce, or I refused to enter Qiangtang and let them give up. But I have to admit, I really got goose bumps after they said that premonition with exaggerated expressions. This is obviously a ghost story. Moreover, this story has entered my heart powerfully and won't go away for a long time. You can scare me how bad the climate in the wilderness is and how cruel wolves and tigers and leopards are, but you can't kill my fragile heart with a ghost story.
My anger actually comes from weakness.
After my friend left, I couldn't help falling into a panic, and the last wall of shelter in my fragile heart was ruthlessly destroyed. No one is absolutely materialistic, and there are too many unknowns in this world. I rationally analyzed my friends' words and deeds and tried to rebuild my heart by destroying it. No one can understand this world, and many theories can explain it. It is everyone's inner weakness that leads to the despair of faith.
I successfully remolded my heart by denying others and leaving them in a fragile but not collapsed state. That creepy ghost story still passes through my mind from time to time like a ghost, giving out two sharp sneers.
At that time, my understanding of Qiangtang was just a repetitive imagination. I have never been to such a vast wilderness. Just like first love, the fantasy of lover is the whole of sweet love. When reality replaces fantasy, love ceases to exist. Therefore, on the eve of entering Qiangtang, there are not too many physical problems, risks, unknowns and fears, and the faint joy derived from fantasy always lingers in the beautiful journey.
2
Go deep into the wilderness
At that time, with my shallow understanding of Qiangtang, I didn't have the joy of breaking into the local tyrants' dinner, but I was full of unspeakable respect for this wasteland and nature. "
When the passion fades, it always plays new tricks.
A route through the west of Qiangtang is completely planned by Guangming Dream. I use a pen to connect my favorite valleys, rivers, snow-capped mountains and lakes into a line on the map. This is my journey.
When I was really in the wilderness, it didn't give me the inevitable sense of loss when I was in contact with reality. It was more love and deep love. Qiangtang is a place I must go through. The first time I went camping in the wild, it was a perfect sunset. The golden light soothes the desolate wasteland, and all other thoughts and evil desires in the world are erased. I stared at my oblique shadow for a long time, watching him stretch a little, and then became cold.
With the deepening of travel and the passage of time, that wasteland will always change into new tricks when my passion fades. Trapped in the sand and extremely depressed, he sent a lovely little Tibetan antelope. What reason can I refuse this encouragement? When I curled up and buried my head in the hail, a rainbow hung on my fingertips. What reason do I have to refuse to enjoy this magnificent scenery? Behind the steep ridge is the blue waves. Why do I refuse to climb? The sticky wetland is full of colorful wild flowers. In this desolate plateau, what reason do I have not to cherish each other and love each other?
When I was intercepted by a river and waddled around the river bank for dozens of times, I saw a large number of Tibetan antelopes running happily in the valley. The deep and dense hoofbeat made me trance in the African grassland of the animal world, as if I had crossed into the description of Qiangtang wildlife by western explorers in the last century. Although I have been wandering in Shan Ye for many years, I have never seen such a wild and unrestrained scene. Tibetan antelopes are not very afraid of me, but they will never approach me too enthusiastically. I sat on a dry stone and stared at their light figures.
I walked for five days in a valley full of wind, hail and wetlands. A large number of Tibetan antelopes pass by every day. Later, I learned that the valley is a very important migration channel for Tibetan antelopes in the west of Qiangtang. Dr. Schaller tried to explore this way in his early years, but in vain. A few years later, two American travelers went north to look for this migration passage, and they gained little. In September, I accidentally broke into the muddy Qiangtang, closed the door to the outside world and reveled alone. At that time, with my shallow understanding of Qiangtang, I didn't have the joy of breaking into the local tyrants' dinner, but I was full of unspeakable respect for this wasteland and nature.
Later, it crossed the marginal mountain system where several mountains crisscrossed in the west of Qiangtang and entered a wide lake basin. There is another scene, snow-capped mountains, lakes, grasslands and free creatures. They created a perfect dream for me in the sunset. I am in a trance. In that cold winter, I came out of the deep underground and saw the wilderness swaying in the sun, which was the land under my feet at this time. My body is no longer bound, and everything is so indifferent and casual.
three
Look the wolf in the eye.
Facing the wolf for the first time, I was so caught off guard. We just looked at each other, speechless in the wind, without excessive vigilance, and each other was full of curiosity. Then, it left. "
Passers-by are my identity tags in the wilderness.
The wilderness has its own rules of the game, and the creatures that make it their home have the same impermanence of life and death. Every living thing is based on the destruction of other living things. Weeds absorb nutrients from the earth, cattle and sheep chew delicious weeds, and jackals spy on their rich dinners. Finally, the fierce jackal will be killed by disease or the sword of time and rot in the rich land. Life and death, reincarnation, this is the most true nature of the wilderness.
Facing the wolf for the first time, I was so caught off guard.
We just looked at each other, speechless in the wind, without excessive vigilance, and each other was full of curiosity. Then, it left. Then, I moved on. In this brief encounter, I am not sure how much I know about wolves, but there is no fear of blindness in my heart. The world is not complicated, nor is it simple at a glance. In short, it will never be the same as we thought. I hope I can meet this wolf again. We became close friends, sitting on the grass, chatting with each other and telling each other our first feelings. I hope that one day, I and every creature on the grassland can do it: on the road, you look at me and I look at you, and one eye can understand each other's difficulties and happiness.
Before I decided to go to Qiangtang, I had figured out how to avoid getting involved in the battle of wasteland. I have my destiny, but it is definitely not in the jungle chain. A man who tried to cross Qiangtang once texted that he made a crossbow and the arrow was coated with poison ... Another man seriously wanted to discuss killing pikas as an effective supply. I blocked these people and was extremely disgusted with such an argument. Humans always want to strike first because of fear, or shape themselves into the top of the food chain. In fact, we can't dominate anything.
For the wasteland, we are just passers-by as guests, and we should be humble and grateful. When we meet a friendly host, we smile sincerely. When we meet a unruly master, we always patiently tolerate and communicate. With a knife and a hostile heart, we can't conquer the wasteland that no longer belongs to us.
One of my knives is only used to cut garlic and ghee. I never try to light my firecrackers, and I often forget which pocket I put my anti-wolf spray in. Before entering the wasteland, I am not sure whether I can bear the heart of a passerby without any obstacles, and whether I have over-idealized my relationship with the wasteland?
Passers-by is not only my identity tag in the wilderness, but also the law of my travel on earth. No matter who we meet and how far we walk together, it's just a short encounter in the torrent of time, and we will eventually leave or die. Those tangled grievances are just resentment out of thin air. Don't cling to our relationship, we will be disappointed by others and others, but we will always leave. Don't hurt, don't be hurt, even if our tracks are staggered, it's just a warm transmission.
four
Dian Mu Life Insurance
I took part in their work, grazing, shearing cows' hair, milking goats' milk, rubbing skins, and patting off the snow on the tent in the early morning covered with heavy snow. I am enjoying an idyllic quiet life, and temporarily forget the unpredictable tomorrow. "
This deviates from the preset track by 20 kilometers.
After completing the crossing trip in the west of Qiangtang, I will walk parallel to the grazing point in the border area at 100 km, get supplies from the preset grazing point, and then turn around and continue to go deep into the wilderness. But it was under the interference of that ghost story that I deviated from the preset trajectory for nearly 20 kilometers and was more closely parallel to the pasture. Just because that ghost story really works, I can escape quickly. Actually, it is meaningless to deviate from 20 kilometers objectively. He just satisfied his fragile heart and made himself look stronger than before.
Unexpectedly, my judgment on the pastoral points in the border areas was completely wrong, and I collided with them 20 kilometers away. Enthusiastic retention by herders. The herdsmen sent my certificate to the township government to determine my future. The township government is the nearest administrative point to the no-man's land. Even so, they made a three-day round trip. Therefore, I lived in the pasture for three days. Three tents gather in a valley surrounded by a slope, and a dozen herders are isolated from the world and repeat a simple life with a group of cattle and sheep all the year round. The tent is a black tent made of yak hair, and this primitive tent is rare. At first, my tent was so crowded that a child had to sleep with the sheep outdoors.
They are very friendly to me. Every day there are endless stewed mutton and pure yogurt, as well as cheap but attractive tobacco. They are not wary of me. Actually, I have nowhere to go. I took part in their work, grazing, shearing cows' hair, milking goats' milk, rubbing skins, and patting off the snow on the tent covered with heavy snow in the morning. I am enjoying an idyllic quiet life, and temporarily forget the unpredictable tomorrow. What I can repay them is a scripture of the Tibetan King and Bodhisattva. They have innate piety and respect for Bodhisattva and are very satisfied with my gift. The scripture was sent by Ali's friend. They advised me not to stay long, so they presented me with the scriptures of the Tibetan king and bodhisattva to protect my trip to the wilderness.
Three days later, the township head drove me back to the government station. When I was about to leave the ranch, everyone waved goodbye to me, and I was speechless. During the few days together, I showed my persistence in traveling. However, we are all involved in an uncontrollable torrent. I held back my feelings and watched them gradually disappear from sight and finally melt in the boundless wasteland. In this way, I left the wasteland and left silently.
I've been thinking, why did the track that deviated from 20 kilometers turn into a fork in the opposite direction? How many moments in life have been subtly changed by this tiny force.
From the beginning, we were all the same, moving towards clarity in the chaos of the origin of life, embracing each other in the torrent of human civilization, and dying in the endless cycle of time. And the end of life is just another life standing up. Tired, we just lie in a wild flower and sleep quietly, just waiting for the dawn of spring to wake us up gently. No matter how empty our hearts are, we must fly out of the nest helplessly in the morning light and work hard in the ring structure we created.
Walking on the wasteland, the biggest obstacle is actually ourselves. Your heart is so big, where can you go?