Get up at 6 o'clock in the morning, not for anything else, just to see Zhouzhuang's sleepy eyes when he wakes up under the dawn sky, and to appreciate the charm and character of Zhouzhuang after the autumn rain washed away yesterday's vulgarity and precipitated the noise left by tourists.

The place where I slept yesterday was Yunhai Resort, and the backyard of the resort was Baixian Lake. I walked through the backyard in the morning just to see the endless lake, the rippling blue waves, and how much confusion the gauze and stakes around the fish have added to the distant lake. On the north side of the courtyard is the Sea of Clouds Tower. Standing on the tower, you can get a panoramic view of Zhouzhuang.

Ships are driving in the distance, and waves are lapping against the bank on the open lake. In the rippling blue waves of Baixian Lake, you can vaguely feel the misty mist of the same color as the sky in the distance. Walking along the shore of the lake, Zhouzhuangfang quietly moored in the lake, without the splendor of the night, but it showed its quaint and elegant charm to the fullest. I stood quietly on the promenade outside Zhouzhuang boat, recalling the Zhouzhuang boat I saw last night, the elegant outline outlined by the colorful lights hanging high, the magnificent hall, the lantern on the top wall of the hall that exudes the charm of China, and the scene of the preparatory meeting for the 200 1 APEC meeting held here, all passed before my eyes. The cultural charm of Jiangnan water town is in line with the world in the form of Zhouzhuang boat.

Walking across a small cement bridge and out of Yunhai Resort, a tricycle driver waiting by the roadside asked me if I wanted to take a bus. I smiled and shook my head and refused. I strolled along this modern avenue to see how people in Xinzhouzhuang started a new day without any interest.

The streets of the new town in Zhouzhuang are fairly wide. There are already many pedestrians on the roadside, and the manpower in twos and threes keeps passing by. There are many vendors selling fish and lobster on both sides of the road. In the market on the street, people in and out blocked the gate. You can see Zhouzhuang people with vegetables in their hands, and vendors keep entering. The voice from the market is telling people that a new day has begun, but the voice of selling and bargaining has turned into noisy noise. Suddenly there is a feeling of wanting to stay away. I am afraid that this secular life will be brought into the ancient town by me and disturb my mood. So he stopped a human tricycles and drove away. Asked the price before getting on the bus, and the rickshaw driver said in good Wu language: three yuan. So I boldly got on the bus and left. Asking the price before getting on the bus is not because I am afraid of how expensive it is, but because I don't want to hear an astronomical figure after getting on the bus and make some waves on the flat ground. Such incidents have also been heard from time to time in other tourist attractions.

When the car stopped in front of the ancient archway, it entered the ancient town full of charm of Jiangnan water town, as if it had gradually entered another world. Looking back, the ancient archway with four characters of "tang style Heritage" and the nearby Quanfu Pagoda constitute the first sight of entering Zhouzhuang. Looking ahead, you can see an antique stone, and a stone tablet stands next to the creative base of the China Federation of Literary and Art Circles, telling the original tourists that it is a blessed place for cultural people and a treasure house of creative culture.

As you can see on the left, there are as many as three "specialty stores" selling Wanshan hooves founded by Shen Wanshan, a rich man in Zhouzhuang. Two shops selling Wanshan hoof (authentic) have opened, and one is still closed. But I always have a puzzle when I see this phenomenon? Will a company open three pavements in one place? However, although I was confused, I still didn't solve the problem, even a small mystery.

two

In Zhouzhuang in the early morning, the silence echoed with some peaceful pedestrians in twos and threes, with leisurely steps. After the autumn rain last night, the pavement paved with slate and stone was still slightly wet. I also remembered the slippers I bought in a roadside shop yesterday because of the rain, and the beautiful clogs I saw after entering the ancient town. I regret not buying a pair, so that the clogs are kicking in the long alley. It's ten o'clock in the morning, and the small shop selling clogs hasn't opened yet, so I have to walk leisurely in the upper reaches of the side street in plastic slippers.

Strolling along the warm and quiet river, I can't hear the horn of the tour guide yesterday, the crowded and noisy kicking, the noise of tourists, and the unsightly back of my head, which obscures the scenery and charm. Occasionally, I can see several tourists taking pictures of various landscapes. I know that most of them stayed in Zhouzhuang last night, and they are also eager to feel the tranquility of Zhouzhuang.

Shuangqiao, the "land of Tianyuan" all over the world, is no longer crowded and noisy yesterday. Without fidgeting, Shuangqiao will show its charming charm to a handful of tourists. Beishi River flows quietly under the bridge. When it doesn't rain, the arch and bridge body of Shide Bridge and the reflection projected in the river form a very beautiful key, and the round bridge opening explains the freehand brushwork harmony between heaven and earth to every passerby. Look at that bridge again. Yong 'an Bridge is connected with the round bridge by a rectangular hole, which really constitutes a freehand brushwork ink painting with a key and a lock. To really feel the open-ended key bridge and Zen machine in the circle, only in this quiet dawn, when you cross the narrow lane of Chenghuang Street to reach the river and sit peacefully on the stone steps, can you really feel the cultural significance of the double bridge with your eyes and mind.

Suddenly, in my eyes staring at Shuangqiao, people in the ancient town got up in the morning and hurried by. Behind the boat lady's light footsteps, there was actually a rhubarb dog following. In an instant, people and dogs strolling on the bridge, green trees on the streets of Beishi, colorful double bridges, rippling blue waves under the bridges ... and silent ink paintings suddenly came to life.

Shuangqiao has a sense of movement and suddenly has a smart vitality.

Shuangqiao is alive.

Go south along North Street and look across the river. The Taiping Bridge on the other side of the river leans against the horizontally flowing Hougang River. On the north bank of the bridge are several patchwork houses, and on the south bank are three-story buildings that stand tall. Red lanterns are hung on the eaves around the green tiles, cornices and the second floor, and there are bamboo curtains that have not been pulled up. This is another unique charm of the water town.

If those travelers who cross Shuangqiao and Zhouzhuang on foot in noisy and crowded times can see the autumn rain map of Shuangqiao at dawn with disappointment, I think the tranquility of Taiping Bridge will probably not regret the dream of coming to Zhouzhuang to find an ancient home.

In the morning of the ancient town, the smoke from cooking began to pervade the river, and some families living in the ancient town began to cook with firewood. Cooking smoke adds poetry to the quiet ancient town. The sidewalks in the small streets began to open one after another. On the stone steps by the river, you can see the woman washing clothes, standing on the stone steps rubbing clothes, and occasionally the sound of smashing clothes rings on the river through the reflection of the green trees by the river.

The ancient town finally began to wake up from last night's deep sleep.

In an alley, I saw an old woman boiling water, and a middle-aged man called her "Mom". That voice is so soft and full of emotion, without losing Wu's soft language characteristics, and this overlapping word "mom" is a little more affectionate and tender than the single word "mom" that most people can only call at present. When I heard these two words, I was crazy at once. In modern China, there are not many people who can call out "mom" so truly. We only hear the word "mom" more often, but some middle-aged people have gradually forgotten to call their mothers.

Silly standing in the street outside the mother and son's kitchen by the river, although I can't understand the conversation behind them, these two words are enough to evoke my faint nostalgia. I think of Beijing this year. On Mother's Day, the relevant units specially carried out such an activity in the street to publicize Mother's Day: shouting two words in front of mother in public places: "Mom". Many middle-aged men and women stood in the street, blushing, and finally didn't shout everywhere. When a middle-aged woman finally shouted her inner call in the face of her white-haired old mother, these two "mothers". Here, in an antique town, this call is so kind, natural, beautiful and breathtaking.

Walking past the front door of Zhang Ting, the door is still closed. Now is not the time to welcome tourists. The closed door seems to be saying something. Although the lantern in front of the door is still on, it smells old. Perhaps, the overloaded passengers have made the managers of Zhouzhuang a little tired. I photographed this closed but quiet door, and this moment of tranquility may be a beautiful moment for this ancient house to recuperate.

Fuan Bridge, Tiyun Bridge, Xinglong Bridge, Hougang River, Nanshi River and Zhongshi River were all stolen by my camera. While enjoying the quiet beauty of Zhouzhuang, it suddenly began to rain again. Seeing the scene of raindrops dancing happily in the river, I couldn't help turning on the camera again and continuing to look for the autumn rhyme of Zhouzhuang.

In this early morning rain, I not only walked into the lonely rain lane of Zhouzhuang with a faint sky-blue oiled paper umbrella, but also saw three or two tourists strolling in the rain, most of them holding cameras in their hands, keeping the beauty of Zhouzhuang.

In the rain lane, on the arch bridge, you will meet one or two lovers from time to time-like men and women, snuggling under an umbrella and walking sweetly. For them, it seems that this autumn rain is the most beautiful love song.

I was thinking that they should have stayed in Zhouzhuang last night. Yesterday's Tanabata, which bridge in Zhouzhuang should they listen to the love story of Cowherd and Weaver Girl? Maybe it should be "Waipoqiao" ...

Standing on the arched Fu 'an Bridge, I watched the autumn rain dancing on the rivers of north and south cities, and suddenly found that the autumn rain this morning suddenly had a changing rhythm, with dense raindrops, sparse drizzle, cheerful waltz and lyrical blues. Listen to the autumn rain beating on the roof tiles, just like the ticking drums. Is this beautiful rhythm given by God? Is it specially performed for people who are interested in dreaming of Zhouzhuang?

Watching the rain dripping from the eaves in the long alley, walking in the long alley with a tarpaulin umbrella, I remembered the lonely Tanabata yesterday, a small wish, wanting to buy a bunch of flowers for the first girl I met, and listening to the lonely mood of clouds flowing in the river.

And this morning, in this morning's quiet rain, the alley should be Dai Wangshu's rain lane:

Holding an oil-paper umbrella alone

Wandering in the long, long

Lonely rain lane

I hope to see

Like cloves.

A girl with a grudge. ……

Yes, how I want to find the lilac girl with faint sadness in the alley, read her sad and confused eyes, dispel her lilac-like melancholy and carefully collect the lilac-like fragrance in my heart. ...

three

I walked in the rain with an umbrella, wandering in the rain ... and turned several times between Huangcheng and North Street. The only one who is afraid to set foot on Zhenfeng Street is to go to Sanmao Teahouse. I dare not walk in Zhong Shi street several times. I always hesitate to go to the teahouse. I'm afraid I went to the teahouse too early and didn't open the door. I dare not go, and I can't find the long feeling of listening to Olive Tree in this teahouse, which makes it impossible for the wandering clouds to rediscover Sanmao's dream.

The autumn rain stopped and stopped, and stopped and stopped. At this time, my heart is also rainy and sunny for a while. In the end, I walked into Sanmao Teahouse through the long lane of oblique wind and drizzle according to my heart's wish.

When I entered the teahouse, I saw a woman sitting at a table by the window, and there was only a vague image under the backlight outside the window. I'm surprised. Is there a dreamer before me?

I didn't elaborate too much about this dreamer who was earlier than me. At this moment, in the right window, a man with glasses stood up, smiled and came up to me and greeted me. When I saw it, I knew that this was Zhang, the owner of Sanmao Teahouse whom I met three years ago, and a member of Jiangsu Writers Association.

I also greeted him quickly with a smile. Landlord, remember two years ago? In the winter of 2000, when I came here, it happened that you had closed the door, except for the last door panel. I want you to let me go upstairs and have a look. Finally, my piety touched you, so I was allowed to go upstairs. Later, it was my piety that made you and the proprietress agree not to close the door and let me have tea and chat with you. Landlord Zhang.

Seeing that the landlord remembered the past, I said I would go upstairs first, and the landlord waved and said, go up. In fact, the first thing I did when I entered Sanmao Teahouse was to look for my message in the guestbook in 2000. I thought those guest books were still upstairs, so I went upstairs first. I searched carefully, but I couldn't find the guest book of that year. I asked a waitress with two big dimples in the teahouse, and she told me that everything in the past was downstairs. When I knew I could find the guest book, I settled down and hit many teahouses I visited two years ago. There are several thick guest books hanging on the wooden pillars, all of which are from 2002. Each book is basically filled with tourists' messages. The banner of "Jiangnan No.1 Teahouse" hanging on the beam is very light in ink and covered with years of dust.

After going downstairs, I told the landlord that I was looking for news from the past and walked to a wooden table.

The young girl came up to me and asked me, What kind of tea would you like to drink? I smiled and replied: granny tea, of course.

I was just about to sit down when the woman sitting by the window asked me: Where are you from? When I turned around, I found the woman sitting by the window greeting me. I quickly replied, Qingdao, the lady said with a smile, I'm from Qingdao, too. Yes, because from a place, there is a kind of nature.

This just took a closer look at the dreamer who came earlier than me. Turned out to be a middle-aged woman, kind and easy-going, dignified and elegant. During the conversation, I learned that she came here to study Shuang Mianxiu, studied photography in the past and published her own photo album. Now she is the boss of several companies in Beijing. I came here to learn embroidery in order to find my own quiet territory in the hustle and bustle of Beijing, so that when I am in Beijing, I can quietly use embroidery to calm my heart when I escape from complicated daily affairs.

Everyone has his own way to find inner peace. I traveled around the world to feel the tranquility of nature, but this lady chose embroidery. Better than me. The small ones are hidden in the wild, the middle ones are hidden in the world, and the big ones are hidden in the DPRK. I am a hidden little character.