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Philosophical Thinking on Su Shi's Gourmet
Nowadays, people like to call themselves "foodies", and there are teasing and showing off in their words. But it is not easy to become a qualified "foodie". Throughout the ages, there are countless literati who love to eat, but they rarely talk about their own experiences.

Bold as the poet Li Bai, he is only willing to write such vague and shy words as "the jade plate is precious and straightforward". Only Su Shi is not ashamed to eat, and even finds it interesting. When he was gentle, he sang "That's when the puffer fish wanted to go up"; Energetic, he shouted "300 lychees a day".

Su Dongpo is not only a famous scholar, but also a famous gourmet. According to legend, many famous dishes are directly related to Su Dongpo, and more dishes are named after him.

Such as Dongpo elbow, Dongpo tofu, Dongpo Yuman, Dongpo leg, Dongpo bud, Dongpo mo carp, Dongpo cake, Dongpo crisp, Dongpo tofu and Dongpo meat.

There is food in poetry, and there is poetry in food.

Su Shi likes mutton soup. When eating mutton on the first day of winter, I wrote: "Qin only cooks mutton soup, and there is bear wax in the dragon."

One day, he also wrote "Ode to Pork": "Clean the pot, lack of water, can't afford firewood. Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough.

Huangzhou good pork, the price is as cheap as dirt. The rich refuse to eat, and the poor don't know how to cook. Get up in the morning and play two bowls, which are full, so don't worry at all. "Although it is some pig food, it is inevitable that there is less loneliness in poetry.

At a gourmet party, Su Dongpo cooked pork with his favorite bamboo shoots, which tasted good, so he wrote a doggerel: "No bamboo makes people vulgar, no meat makes people thin, good but not thin, bamboo shoots stew meat". Like the previous ode to pork, it is also a hidden mystery.

Wild vegetable, sesame seed cake

"Qiu Lai frost dew garden east, reed mustard gave birth to children and grandchildren. I am as full as he hates, and I don't know why I want to eat chicken and dolphins. " In his opinion, these vegetables are more delicious than chicken, duck and fish.

Hufeng Lake is Su Dongpo's favorite place for picnicking. He compared the rattan vegetables grown by the lake here to the water shield of the West Lake in Hangzhou: "There are rattan vegetables in Hufeng Lake, which seems to be comparable to soup."

Cake: "A cupcake is like chewing the moon. It's crispy and greasy inside."

Wild vegetables: "It is better to ask weeds around the wheat field than to cook yam soup for the monk's family."

Rain bamboo shoots: "Great rivers surround you to know the beauty of fish, and good bamboos connect mountains to feel the fragrance of bamboo shoots."

Wine: "When will there be a bright moon? Ask for wine from heaven ",

"if you don't drink enough, it tastes very long."

"I am interested in wine and often hold an empty cup."

Su Dongpo ate the rice cake made by an old woman and couldn't help but write a poem: "Jade hands are rubbed evenly, blue oil is light yellow." Sleeping at night knows the weight in spring, and the beauty is wrapped in arms. "

In just 28 words, the characteristics of uniform, bright and crisp rice cakes and the image that looks like a beautiful year circle are outlined. Sure enough, a foodie can write poetry, and even food has become literary.

lychee

branch

"300 lychees a day, you might as well grow into a Lingnan person."

When he was demoted to Huizhou at the age of 59, Su Gong ushered in the lowest tide of his career. He turned his energy to food. Soon, he found that Huizhou was actually a beautiful place: "The local food in Huizhou is not evil, and the officials and the people are very friendly."

The climate here is mild and rich in products. He cultivated a wide variety of vegetable gardens, including rattan vegetables as delicious as water shield, and lychees that he never tires of eating.

One day, his son Su Guo brought a plate of fresh lychee for his father. Su Dongpo liked it very much after tasting it. Litchi inspired his creative inspiration and wrote Litchi Tan. "Spring in Luofu Mountain is the four seasons, and Luju Yangmei is the new season. 300 lychees a day, I don't want to grow up to be a Lingnan person. "

Su Shi also loves to taste tea and often praises tea in his poems. "Two new flags under the Baiyun Peak, green and fresh valley, rainy spring" describes the scenery of the mountain tea garden outside Hangzhou.

"Never Beautiful Tea is Like Beauty" and another poem "Want to Compare the West Lake to the West Lake" were compiled into the famous teahouse tea club association.

There are many food-related masterpieces in Su Dongpo's poems, such as Vegetable Soup Poetry, Eating Pork Poetry, Bean Meat, A Whale Journey and the famous Gourmet Fu.

"Dongpo" on the tip of the tongue

Dongpo braised pork

Everyone knows "Dongpo Meat", but they don't know that the birth of this delicious food was sublimated by the Communist Party of the Soviet Union's unswerving commitment to the mass line. Zhou Zizhi, a poet in the Song Dynasty, said that Su Dongpo likes pork best.

Dongpo Meat is said to be an interesting thing that happened when he returned to Hangzhou for the second time as a local official. ? At that time, the West Lake was basically submerged by weeds.

After he took office, he mobilized tens of thousands of migrant workers, cleared farmland, dredged lakes and harbors, piled up dredged silt, built long embankments, and built bridges to dredge the lake, thus reviving the West Lake and getting water irrigation.

This piled long dike has improved the environment, not only brought water conservancy benefits to the masses, but also added the scenery of the West Lake. Later, it formed "Xiao Chun Su Causeway", which was listed as the first of the ten scenic spots in the West Lake? .

At that time, ordinary people praised Su Dongpo for doing this good thing for the place. I heard that he likes to eat braised pork. During the Spring Festival, they all gave him pork as a token of their appreciation.

Su Dongpo collected so much pork that he thought he should share it with tens of thousands of migrant workers dredging the West Lake. He asked his family to cut the meat into cubes, cook it with his cooking method, and distribute it to all households with wine according to the roster of migrant workers.

Everyone praised and anecdotes spread. At that time, among those who asked Su Dongpo for advice, in addition to learning calligraphy and writing articles, some people came to learn to burn Dongpo meat.

After the Lunar New Year's Eve, every household in the folk cooked Dongpo meat. Used to express nostalgia for glucoside. Now it has become a traditional dish in Hangzhou. Louwailou restaurant imitated his method to cook this dish, supplied it to the world, and constantly improved it in practice, which has been passed down to this day.

Roasted yangxiezi and Hongzhi chicken

And his demeanor is fully reflected in informality and innovation. For example, there is a local saltworks, and Su Dongpo invented the method of eating salt fans. The baked salted chicken has crispy skin and rotten meat, fragrant bones and strong flavor.

His proudest work is roast sheep scorpion. Huizhou is backward in business and scattered in market. At least the butcher kills a sheep every day. Su Dongpo secretly told the butcher, "Leave some girders for me." Girder bone is the sheep scorpion we ate today.

Su Gong cooked sheep and scorpions carefully. He cooked them first, coated them with a thin layer of wine and salt, and baked them on the fire until they were slightly burnt. The shredded pork on the scorpion is crispy and delicious. It tastes like crab meat.

Today, sheep scorpion hot pot is popular all over the country. In fact, as early as 1000 years ago, Su Dongpo discovered the delicacy of sheep and scorpions with his genius and creativity. At that time, whether voluntary or helpless, what made everything extraordinary was the difference between genius and mediocrity.

The fried chicken developed by him and his wife, Wang Chaoyun, is crispy outside and tender inside, with golden color. It is called Hongzhi Chicken, which is more than 800 years earlier than KFC. It's our lovely uncle Dongpo.

Because there is a local saltworks, in addition to frying and frying, he also created a new cooking skill-salted chicken. His salted chicken has crispy skin, smooth meat, fragrant bones and strong flavor.

During his stay in Guangdong, Su Shi made the famous Hongzhi chicken, a delicious roast lamb chop. After Su Dongpo improved Dongpo meat, it was cooked with Dongpo meat because it was rich in dried plums.

It has become a braised pork with plum vegetables that Guangdong is proud of, and it has also brought us "sheep scorpions" all over the country. Su Shi made great contributions to the diet of later generations.

Dongpo's way of keeping in good health

Su Shi's love for food stems from his passion for life, and the way of eating is the way of human survival. Only when the mouth and abdomen are well conditioned can we have a good physical condition.

Therefore, Su Shi believes that diet is very important to people's health, so he has formed his own set of "health preservation" theory from his daily life experience.

He also wrote a prescription for keeping in good health to a friend, saying that it was handed down during the Warring States period, but "I take it effectively". This anecdote was recorded in Dongpo Zhi Lin.

In other words, Zhang E, a good friend of Su Shi, asked Mr. Dongpo about the way of keeping in good health: "On the one hand, it is not expensive, on the one hand, it is rich to go to bed early, on the other hand, it is safe to ride the bus, on the other hand, it is meat to eat at night."

Nothing is expensive.

People live in this world, don't pursue fame and fortune, don't miss officialdom, and don't take honor and disgrace too seriously. Huangdi Neijing, which was written in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, put forward the concept of keeping in good health: "Quiet but nothing, follow the true qi, keep the spirit inside, be safe but not ill".

Therefore, the spirit should be separated from the pursuit of fame and fortune and other material desires to maintain one's health, while indifferent to fame and fortune is "expensive".

Go to bed early to get rich.

It refers to good living habits, which are more precious than gold, silver and jewelry. The ancients said that "sleeping and eating are important tasks for health preservation" and "those who can sleep and eat can live a long life."

"Lack of sleep and overwork will consume gas and blood for a long time, further damaging the five internal organs and leading to various diseases.

Walk leisurely instead of sitting in a carriage.

It means that people should not covet comfort and physical exertion, but walk instead of riding or riding. Doing more exercise can exercise bones and muscles, smooth qi and blood, keep fit and prolong life.

Hua Tuo, a famous health care expert, also advocates that the human body should exercise more. He said: "If the human body wants to work, it will be depressed, blood will flow, and diseases will not be born."

Eat it as meat at night.

It means that people should eat after they are full, not insatiable for food. Further, eat when you are hungry.

Although it is a simple meal, it is sweeter and more delicious than delicacies. You have to eat reluctantly when you are full, even if the delicious food is in front of you, it is difficult to swallow.

Don't eat too much until you feel hungry. Punctuality and Baoyuan advocates: "Food is half full and tasteless, and wine is only three minutes diligent."

This is also the ancient experience of "moderate diet", which is well-founded and effective. If you are too hungry, too hot and too cold, too fat and overeating, you will die ugly.

Su Dongpo's four "longevity drugs" actually emphasize the importance of emotion, sleep, exercise and diet to health and longevity, and this concept of health preservation is still worth learning even today.

History gave Su Shi a lifetime of hardships, but Su Shi smiled and gave him a legend.

"Life is a good meal, perhaps a banquet at the Hongmen Gate, perhaps a dish for hospitality; Maybe it's delicacies, maybe it's coarse grains of vegetable roots; Even if you are poor and have no food, sometimes you can enjoy yourself. "

"Every meal has a different taste, but life is mostly dull. The real gourmet is not in the specifications, nor in the food, and there should be no deviation in how to taste. "

"If you want to taste it, you have to taste it with your heart. Savor carefully, even ordinary rice is full of fragrance; If you don't care, no matter how delicious things are, they are tasteless. "

Stone, be a man with heart, live with heart, and our every step is happy. Cherish the mood brought by every bite of food, each of us is a gourmet of life.